When do I start 12/12 Flowering?

[Roseman]

WHEN DO I START 12/12 FLOWERING CYCLE?

The longer the VEG cycle, the more the yield.
Consider this, in nature, outdoors, we plant a seed in mid to late April. It grows through almost half of April, May, June, part of July, and in mid to late July, as the sun's rays change, and as the days get shorter, the plant naturally changes from VEG to FLOWER, with the diminishing sun's rays. That is nature's way. The plant grows and matures to an adult plant for about 3 to 4 months, first, THEN, it makes flowers. That is nature's way.
Indoors, in HYDRO, we cut that time in half, by using 24/7 LIGHT. Instead of 3 months, or 13 weeks, it takes about 6 weeks to become a mature plant in HYDRO, with 24/7 LIGHT,with Indica.

OK, also in nature, we see most animals and humans reproduce at maturity or adulthood. If a human, (or dog or any animal) is forced to make babies before maturity, like getting a 12 yr old girl pregnant, then the babies are weak, or runts, or possibly deformed, and just not at their best.
A dude here, a most experienced, knowledgable grower named fdd2blk (and a MOD here too) taught me three years ago, that it does not make sense, it is not wise, it is not logical, to make a child have a child, and it is not wise or smart or logical to make an immature baby plant, have babies. LET THE BABIES GROW UP AND LET THE ADULTS MAKE BABIES.

If you will VEG for 5 weeks, to 6 weeks, you will have more time for proper TOPPING, PRUNING, AND FIMMING, and you'll get bigger plants, and you will also have a mature adult plant, ready to make healthy, stronger babies (flowers) .

If you begin Indica Flowering, after VEGGING 2 or 3 weeks, you will harvest about 60% to 75% of what you would have harvested, IF you had waited and VEGGED for 5 or 6 full weeks.

This info applies to rapid growing in Hydro, and to Indica strains; NOT slowly in SOIL, and NOT Sativa.

I average 3 to 4 ounces per plant, VEGGING 5 to 6 weeks, and I have gotten 7 ounces from one plant, the one you see at my signature. I got that Vegging 6 weeks, and with planned, proper Topping and Pruning and Fimming, creating more stalks, stems, and more tops or cola sites.

If you need info with pics on Topping, Pruning, or Fimming, let me know.

 

[Roseman]

bump, bump

 

[Roseman]

bumpity, bump

 

[Roseman]

any questions?

 

[purpdaddy]

yea heres one for ya...whats the purpose of transition nutes?and when the transition nutes are added,do you switch to 12/12 ,or wait after the week of transitions?im pretty damn sure of the answer but id like to know from u!

 

[purpdaddy]

is it true that when i flower,the ph has to be lower like 5.5-5.7?

 

[Roseman]

yea heres one for ya...whats the purpose of transition nutes?and when the transition nutes are added,do you switch to 12/12 ,or wait after the week of transitions?im pretty damn sure of the answer but id like to know from u!

PurpDaddy, I got one book only (out of 14 books) that mentions "transitional nutrients" that are used between the VEG and FLOWER nutes. The book says they are something someone came up with "to market" or just to sell to make money. Sort of like that stuff they sell to add to your car's motor oil, just before you change it.

That is all I know.

 

[Roseman]

is it true that when i flower,the ph has to be lower like 5.5-5.7?

Purp, that is a debatable topic, and I am not exactly sure. I AM sure that I've read in many books and on some different sites or threads that we are really wrong trying to make the pH stay at exactly one measurement, like 5.9. I have read that we need to let the pH flucuate, or go up and down, between 5.5 and 6.9, with keeping it at an average of 5.8 or 5.9 in hydro. I've read and believe that plants take in different nutes at different pH levels, so at a higher pH more nitrogen is consumed for VEGGing, like at 6.4 t 6.9 and and more potasium for Flowering is taken in at lower pH levels, like 5.5 to 6.0. If that is true, then YES, a lower pH helps with flowering.

I wish I was a whore-a-culturist!

 

[purpdaddy]

Purp, that is a debatable topic, and I am not exactly sure. I AM sure that I've read in many books and on some different sites or threads that we are really wrong trying to make the pH stay at exactly one measurement, like 5.9. I have read that we need to let the pH flucuate, or go up and down, between 5.5 and 6.9, with keeping it at an average of 5.8 or 5.9 in hydro. I've read and believe that plants take in different nutes at different pH levels, so at a higher pH more nitrogen is consumed for VEGGing, like at 6.4 t 6.9 and and more potasium for Flowering is taken in at lower pH levels, like 5.5 to 6.0. If that is true, then YES, a lower pH helps with flowering.

I wish I was a whore-a-culturist!

haha thanks man,i read the samething somewhere elso too,thAtaccording to the ph;the available nutes and sum not as available as others at a higher or lower ph!.Thanks big Unc!

 

[growthspurt]

Note: i allready put this in your other thread.. but just since this one isnt all blown up.. maybe id get a better understanding.

when you start seeing all those pistils everywhere that is it being "female" but its not actually considered flowering right? Im just trying to find out if the "flowering period and when you would switch bloom"" starts when you start seeing the pistils or wait till you see bud. Remember my issue only comes because normal people growing NON autoflower would see what the plant would go to.. then switch to 12/12 and start giving bloom nutes. Me on the other hand have autoflower and do not know what to look for to consider it to be in flowering so I can properly provide it with the proper nutrients.

for reference here is a very up to date pic of the top.

oh and for example as well.. see the hairs coming off this little one..... thats simply just telling me its a female right?

 

[Roseman]

Note: i allready put this in your other thread.. but just since this one isnt all blown up.. maybe id get a better understanding.

when you start seeing all those pistils everywhere that is it being "female" but its not actually considered flowering right?

When you see "pre-flowers" or any indication of what SEX it is, then it IS Flowering.

Im just trying to find out if the "flowering period and when you would switch bloom"" starts when you start seeing the pistils or wait till you see bud.
VEG Nutes are designed to make the plant make more leaves and the plant grow bigger.
Bloom nutes are designed to make the plant make more Flower sites and larger flowers.
Remember my issue only comes because normal people growing NON autoflower would see what the plant would go to.. then switch to 12/12 and start giving bloom nutes. Me on the other hand have autoflower and do not know what to look for to consider it to be in flowering so I can properly provide it with the proper nutrients.


I'm not the "auto flowering" expert that you need, I have no experience with auto-flowering. You'll have to read up on it and ask someone else.
If I had to make a GUESS, I'd guess use VEG to get them bigger then use BLOOM to get more buds.

 

[growthspurt]

Ok thank you, I think i learn alot from you cause if you don't know the answer directly, you just give me the logic and then I figure it out.. much appreciated man!!

 

[purpdaddy]

I'm not the "auto flowering" expert that you need, I have no experience with auto-flowering. You'll have to read up on it and ask someone else.
If I had to make a GUESS, I'd guess use VEG to get them bigger then use BLOOM to get more buds.[/quote]
im not either ,but it makes scense to use veg nutes before they show sex,and as soon as they start showin,switch to the flower nutes..thats what id do...im gonna try sum of those "auto flowers" one day!

 

[Roseman]

Any Auto Flowering Experts got any advise?

 

[NoDrugs4Me]

If you give VEG nutes to a plant that is already flowering... the energy the plant has will be used to produce more VEGETATIVE growth. Notice that on brands like General Hydroponics (3-part basic: Micro, Grow, and Bloom) that you don't give ANY "GROW" nutes once you've gotten out of the "transition phase."

Nitrogen causes plants to grow taller, broader, and produce more leaves and stems. Once you switch the lights to 12/12.... the plant WILL STRETCH to 2 or 3 times the size it was when you induced flowering. Here is what I do, personally.

I let the plant, indica or sativa, get to adulthood (5-7 alternating nodes) and then I give it 18 hours of darkness the first night, then 12 from there on out. I give it the "transition" amount of nutrients the EXACT SAME DAY that I move it under the HPS (12/12 cycle). This means that the plant is transitioning from VEGETATIVE growth to FLOWERING growth. Don't let the terms confuse you... while in the flowering light cycle (once the lights are on 12/12) the plant will DOUBLE or TRIPLE in size.

I give the "transition" amount of nutes for one week. After that, I go to bloom for two weeks, aggressive bloom for 3 weeks, and then ripen for one week.... the last week I flush. That's based on an Indica that needs 8 weeks to fully mature. Most of the time the plant enjoys not having any nutrients during the final (flush) week. It seems to stress the plant just enough to make it produce extra resin!!!!

-AUTOFLOWER-
Ruderalis is no fun, by my book. I like taking clones so I can pick the best of the bunch and maximize the potency of the strain. You can't do that with Ruderalis plants (autoflowering-type).

-QUESTION-
Is the larger plant also an autoflowering strain? I can't tell from the pic... my apologies. If it IS... then switch to 12/12 and follow my guidelines for an indica as written above. If not... well... then you decide when it's large enough to flower (don't do it before you have 5 nodes... that just doesn't work as well).

As far as the baby plant goes... the pistils that you see are coming from (most likely) 2 baby calyxes. The calyx is what you smoke, so you DO have a female, unless it hermies on you (keep those temps below 80 F if you can!!). Since the baby plant does NOT have 5 alternating nodes yet, do NOT give it any nutrients. I would wait until I saw 4 alternating nodes on it, then I would "transition" it into flowering. It would not hurt to go ahead and put the baby under 12/12, too!

I'll do my best to keep up with your post and help in any way that I can. I am by no means an expert... I just love cannabis!

 

[djuz89]

i was wondering about my sprouts leaning towards the blue light. Is this normal? Sorry if I hijacked Long time reader of you guys. Thanks for all the info

 

[purpdaddy]

If you give VEG nutes to a plant that is already flowering... the energy the plant has will be used to produce more VEGETATIVE growth. Notice that on brands like General Hydroponics (3-part basic: Micro, Grow, and Bloom) that you don't give ANY "GROW" nutes once you've gotten out of the "transition phase."

Nitrogen causes plants to grow taller, broader, and produce more leaves and stems. Once you switch the lights to 12/12.... the plant WILL STRETCH to 2 or 3 times the size it was when you induced flowering. Here is what I do, personally.

I let the plant, indica or sativa, get to adulthood (5-7 alternating nodes) and then I give it 18 hours of darkness the first night, then 12 from there on out. I give it the "transition" amount of nutrients the EXACT SAME DAY that I move it under the HPS (12/12 cycle). This means that the plant is transitioning from VEGETATIVE growth to FLOWERING growth. Don't let the terms confuse you... while in the flowering light cycle (once the lights are on 12/12) the plant will DOUBLE or TRIPLE in size.

I give the "transition" amount of nutes for one week. After that, I go to bloom for two weeks, aggressive bloom for 3 weeks, and then ripen for one week.... the last week I flush. That's based on an Indica that needs 8 weeks to fully mature. Most of the time the plant enjoys not having any nutrients during the final (flush) week. It seems to stress the plant just enough to make it produce extra resin!!!!

-AUTOFLOWER-
Ruderalis is no fun, by my book. I like taking clones so I can pick the best of the bunch and maximize the potency of the strain. You can't do that with Ruderalis plants (autoflowering-type).

-QUESTION-
Is the larger plant also an autoflowering strain? I can't tell from the pic... my apologies. If it IS... then switch to 12/12 and follow my guidelines for an indica as written above. If not... well... then you decide when it's large enough to flower (don't do it before you have 5 nodes... that just doesn't work as well).

As far as the baby plant goes... the pistils that you see are coming from (most likely) 2 baby calyxes. The calyx is what you smoke, so you DO have a female, unless it hermies on you (keep those temps below 80 F if you can!!). Since the baby plant does NOT have 5 alternating nodes yet, do NOT give it any nutrients. I would wait until I saw 4 alternating nodes on it, then I would "transition" it into flowering. It would not hurt to go ahead and put the baby under 12/12, too!

I'll do my best to keep up with your post and help in any way that I can. I am by no means an expert... I just love cannabis!

damn so i guess the qutoflower is off the list

 

[DRKPablo]

bump bump bump

 

[Roseman]

I'm just not fond of autoflworing little bitty plants. I like the BUSHY plants.

 

[purpdaddy]

I'm just not fond of autoflworing little bitty plants. I like the BUSHY plants.

yea man,,im not sure i wanna start clonnin...id rather grow TREES!