Blue Mountian Organics

somebody041

Well-Known Member
hey ohso, you said you mix the foliar harmony with flower power to get the right amount of n... could you elaborate on that a bit? do you mix equal parts and feed right through flowering until it's time to flush?

thank you!
 

dirt clean

Well-Known Member
I would mix like each one says. I mean add them independantly. But still add them to the flower tea. I mixed them together, not at equal portion, but at equal str, like a half to a whole, and I am stuck now with no foliar harmony and am confused and now cant just add a little more flower power as I got to also add that 3 of N my mix has. Too much N, like over 5 in flower is bad news. I used what was on the back of the bottle. Make sure to aerate all your fert bottles, they are all active I think.

Also, teas are a wonder. :)
 

notoriousb

Well-Known Member
if you don't have an aquarium pump, couldn't you just put a straw in one of the BMo bottles and blow bubbles for a minute or two to aerate a bit? then feed?
 

dirt clean

Well-Known Member
Actually, lol, what you could do is shake up vigourously or pour from one container to the other avery few hours. The more the merrier. I have the best luck with after 18 hours of brew time and before 24. That is when I am figuring bacterial action is greatest. I think before that it is mostly fungi city.

What kind of job do you have where you can blow into a straw strapped to a 5 gallon bucket every few hours. You would be surprised by how much air surface agitation provides. Like heavy shaking.
 

notoriousb

Well-Known Member
Actually, lol, what you could do is shake up vigourously or pour from one container to the other avery few hours. The more the merrier. I have the best luck with after 18 hours of brew time and before 24. That is when I am figuring bacterial action is greatest. I think before that it is mostly fungi city.

What kind of job do you have where you can blow into a straw strapped to a 5 gallon bucket every few hours. You would be surprised by how much air surface agitation provides. Like heavy shaking.
Lol, I was just talking about aerating BMO ferts in their bottles with a straw!
I just talked to a buddy who works at a pet store tho and he said he had an old pump that he'd hook up for free! lol so guess I don't have to worry about passing out from blowing into a straw for hours on end :bigjoint:
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
hey ohso, you said you mix the foliar harmony with flower power to get the right amount of n... could you elaborate on that a bit? do you mix equal parts and feed right through flowering until it's time to flush?

thank you!
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SomeBody041.... Yes, one ounce of Foliar Harmony and 1/2 ounce of Flower Power to each gallon of unchlorinated water. (For hydro: use this mixing ratio for two gallons of water - then work upwards - slowly)
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For soil : Feed each plant, one quart of your mixed up solution per gallon of soil for plants in containers, or give 1/2 to 1 gallon for plants in the ground.
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Feed up to the last 14 days before harvest. Then the last two weeks, only water for soil grows. For hydro, let ppm drop, just maintain pH in correct range (5 to 5.8).
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic....
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Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
ohsogreen you are vert right and i am sorry i posed my question in the they way i did. :hug: This has just been a reacurring issue an most sites when asking a question ( just like Dirt) they all want to have smart ass responses or statments with nothing to back it up besides bashing someone just looking for info. It is my personallity i tend to take things the wrong way.:oops: also i am in no way trying to exchange challenges with you i am just the type that like someone to post explinations when writing comments. Once agin i am sorry if i offended/mad you mad.
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Plantman969...... We're cool. I agree, too often, responses are not helpful. I prefer being helpful and having open discussions.
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If we can't learn from each other, why are we here.
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Let's all get back to discussing growing Mary & please let the name calling & temps drop back to the chill zone......
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Keep it Real.....Peaceful.... :peace:
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notoriousb

Well-Known Member
do you also mix the foliar harmony and the grow green during veg? or just foliar harmony and flower power during flowering? and when you feed with SPT, do you wait a week till you feed with the other BMO ferts? ie: I was going to give the SPT to my plants tomorrow for the first time, so should I wait to give my plants Grow it Green till next week?
 

godsgarden

Active Member
thanks OHSOGREEN, im stoked to be able to see some people that have already experimented with the BMO liquids.... i just bought the package deal today from BMO 4 bottles for like $35 with shipping to Hawaii good prices and from what i hear good product. glad bmo is around. cant want to see what it does to the plants
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
do you also mix the foliar harmony and the grow green during veg? or just foliar harmony and flower power during flowering? and when you feed with SPT, do you wait a week till you feed with the other BMO ferts? ie: I was going to give the SPT to my plants tomorrow for the first time, so should I wait to give my plants Grow it Green till next week?
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NotoriousB..... I like to feed one week (GIG) in veg, then do only water and SPT the next, in continous rotation. I watch my leaves for any signs of problems, if for any reason they look a bit light green. I give them a folair feeding also (but only when needed).
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Then when pre-flowers show, no foliar feeding at all. I overlap the GIG & FP, reducing the GIG in small increments, starting the FP at 1/2 strength, then keep working the GIG down & the FP upwards.
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If any leaves are too pale, I start mixing the FH in with the FP on feeding days. I don't use the SPT after the first half of flowering, since a good sized population of micro-beasties are doing their thing. No need to waste the SPT.
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It's better to judge your plants as you go, instead of sticking to a feeding chart. Most charts are fair, but tend to overfertilize IMO. Better to start low and work upwards as you go.
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It's better to underfeed, than to overfeed. One is easy to correct, the other is not.......
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Low, Slow & Steady......
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Hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic.....
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Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
GodsGarden...... Amen on your signature......
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Yes, the BMO stuff is well made, just not expensive. Works as well as EJ, Bontanicare, etc.... but requires less green.....
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More green for less green is a good thing.........
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I just hope they don't get too big, like " Roots " did and start jacking up their prices.......
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Keep it Real....Organic..... cause chemicals are for cleaning your toilet......
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notoriousb

Well-Known Member
thanks a tons OhSo. this is really what I needed to read because I was having trouble finding how to rotate feedings with so many options from BMO. excited to start feeding my ladies and watching them blow up!

thanks again
 

notoriousb

Well-Known Member
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NotoriousB..... I like to feed one week (GIG) in veg, then do only water and SPT the next, in continous rotation. I watch my leaves for any signs of problems, if for any reason they look a bit light green. I give them a folair feeding also (but only when needed).
.
Then when pre-flowers show, no foliar feeding at all. I overlap the GIG & FP, reducing the GIG in small increments, starting the FP at 1/2 strength, then keep working the GIG down & the FP upwards.
.
If any leaves are too pale, I start mixing the FH in with the FP on feeding days. I don't use the SPT after the first half of flowering, since a good sized population of micro-beasties are doing their thing. No need to waste the SPT.
.
It's better to judge your plants as you go, instead of sticking to a feeding chart. Most charts are fair, but tend to overfertilize IMO. Better to start low and work upwards as you go.
.
It's better to underfeed, than to overfeed. One is easy to correct, the other is not.......
.
Low, Slow & Steady......
.
Hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic.....
.
.
sorry for all the questions OhSo but you're definitely the authority on BMO.

so when you said "I like to feed one week (GIG) in veg, then do only water and SPT the next, in continous rotation" does that mean- Week 1-GIG, Week 2- only water, & Week 3-SPT? so 3 week cycle total?
 

johnnysacoseeds

Active Member
Every other week. First week gig, second week water with spt. Repeat.
Hope that helps. This is a good guide that may need adjustment on your part. I understand different strains may require more/less feeding. Try to get in tune with your plants, they will tell you what they need.
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
sorry for all the questions OhSo but you're definitely the authority on BMO.

so when you said "I like to feed one week (GIG) in veg, then do only water and SPT the next, in continous rotation" does that mean- Week 1-GIG, Week 2- only water, & Week 3-SPT? so 3 week cycle total?
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NotoriousB..... Hmm... I could have put that better.
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No, I meant feed one week, then water (& SPT) the next, in rotation. So, feed on, feed off, 2 week rotation. & I don't mind. This will work for BMO's stuff or any good ferts, like Earth Juice, Botanicare, etc....
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The rotation prevents the two biggest mistakes with Mary. Overfeeding and Overwatering.
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By feeding, then only giving water as need for a week afterwards, you prevent the overfeeding. By then, Mary is hungry again, and ready for more nutes.
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This ensures your soil or res, never gets the buildup of nutes that can cause so many problems, plus it encourages roots to grow outwards searching for more food.
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The thing about roots is, if you feed & water them too frequently, they stay smaller. They only grow down & out as far as needed to obtain water & food.
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Even though growth above ground my look more impressive with frequent feedings, the roots suffer with frequent feedings.
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Later, when roots really count (during the finish), these big plants with smaller roots don't yield as well. Instead, the smaller plants, with big roots kick as* in the yield dept. and are healther plants in general.
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I hope this helps....sorry for not being more specific in the previous post.
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notoriousb

Well-Known Member
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NotoriousB..... Hmm... I could have put that better.
.
No, I meant feed one week, then water (& SPT) the next, in rotation. So, feed on, feed off, 2 week rotation. & I don't mind. This will work for BMO's stuff or any good ferts, like Earth Juice, Botanicare, etc....
.
The rotation prevents the two biggest mistakes with Mary. Overfeeding and Overwatering.
.
By feeding, then only giving water as need for a week afterwards, you prevent the overfeeding. By then, Mary is hungry again, and ready for more nutes.
.
This ensures your soil or res, never gets the buildup of nutes that can cause so many problems, plus it encourages roots to grow outwards searching for more food.
.
The thing about roots is, if you feed & water them too frequently, they stay smaller. They only grow down & out as far as needed to obtain water & food.
.
Even though growth above ground my look more impressive with frequent feedings, the roots suffer with frequent feedings.
.
Later, when roots really count (during the finish), these big plants with smaller roots don't yield as well. Instead, the smaller plants, with big roots kick as* in the yield dept. and are healther plants in general.
.
I hope this helps....sorry for not being more specific in the previous post.
.
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answered my question in full :bigjoint:
 

AgentX

Active Member
I have two meters a tri-meter that reads ph, temp, ec, and ppm, and the second meter is a tds meter.

So yea on two different meters the product is not registering. so you dont have this problem? 1st i thought it was because it is an organic nute but from your response your product registers?

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Plantman969..... Your TDS meter will not help with organic ferts. I used to do chem / hydro years ago. When I made the switch, I too thought what the hell.....???? but organics are different.
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First, the BMO stuff is missing the heavy metals / inorganic mineral salts you find in most chem only nutes (both of those are highly conductive). Next, their mixes are alive. Large concentrations of live bacteria & fungi, freak out the average EC or TDS meter. TDS or EC readings will not provide a true measure of nute value of organic ferts.
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So basically, you can use your meter to check the quality of the water prior to mixing, but after that forget-a-bout-it....... Just mix it like it says on the label and give your plants one quart of the mixed up fertilizer per gallon of soil, per week.
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I would not foliar feed during flowering. Trichromes are like velcro. You could use the foliar mix with the flowering mix to add N.
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I've always felt BMO's flower fert was too light in the N dept., but the foliar fert mixed in with the flower, makes it just right. Probably no concidence there. Before they starting selling the foliar, I just mixed a 1/4 strength of their grow fert in with the flower power.
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Hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic.......
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OhSoGreen is correct. I just got a response back from Canna about their Bio and Aqua nutes and this is part of the explanation that applies here.

"You will never get a decent reading from BIO as most of the nutrient value is locked up in an organic molecule that has to degrade before the appropriate ions are released. It is the ions that register on the EC meter....It is pointless to measure or attempt to adjust BioCanna in the tank or medium, EC or pH. The equipment to do this correctly costs hundreds of thousands of Euros."

There it is. When working with organics you just have to trust your mixing ratios with respect to the directions and how your plants respond to it.

X
 

somebody041

Well-Known Member
hey thanks for your response ohso! i just harvested my first batch of mary using BMO the whole way through. they look spectacular!
i have some delicious green crack and blue dragonite i would love to share...
 
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