SoG Grow Room Discussion

[Cuttings2Colas]

Within a couple days? Excellent. If it's this Sunday, you can celebrate the 6th month of your grow journal with some happy clones/seeds... 3 days to plants!

Danksmoker, you need to read SOG's "Grow Room Op" in his signature. It's only 6 pages (as opposed to 102), and it has all of the really good info (like the badass controllers being used).

 

[SOG]

this is how i originally envisioned this, what's the verdict?
(more pics posted in my journal)

 

[GypsyBush]

Oh Hell Yeah!

That is going to work like a charm...

Can't wait for launch date...

We are at "T" minus one week and counting... lol...

 

[danksmoker77]

ya man looks good! i still kinda like the idea of runnin something down the middle to force it over the coils. And I have definitely read the entire post with all the info but its been a while. ill freshen up.

 

[diggitydank420]

Hey, your idea could work... like you said, this is brainstorming, right?

Godspeed!

 

[greenthumb111]

Hey, your idea could work... like you said, this is brainstorming, right?

Godspeed!

Ok. I have thought about this air cooling in the tube and the thing Gypsy said about making a radiator. A radiator works on the premise that cooler air passes over a lot of surface area of hotter fluid filled tubes with fins for max dispersion of heat and max cooling as the cooler air passes over the tubes. We have the opposite where we have hotter air we want to pass over a larger surface area of tubes filled with cooler fluid. I think you could increase the surface area by making the copper tubes smaller and in a "S" type shape inside a PVC pipe. Since the "S" shaped copper tubes would be cool the PVC would not melt or bend.

If you remember the DYI pool heater on the BBQ, the copper pipes were fashioned in a "S" manner (as if you were drawing a "S" line from one side of the tube to the other from top to bottom) and connected. If you were to look down a PVC tube and Imagine many of these "S" shaped tube structures. The "S" tubes would be connected front to back and back to front inside the PVC tubing to create a continuous tube. Any condensation would flow down the tube and be collected from the end of the PVC.

While I know you think the bigger tubing has a greater surface area, if you calculate the surface area you could fill with the smaller tubing, I think you will find that the smaller tube has a greater surface area. If you used a 5-10 ft joint of PVC and loaded it with 5-10 "S" shaped structures connected, I think you would find the surface area exceeds the coils.

Bending: Maybe use 1/4 or 1/8 in copper tubing. Build a "S" shaped template with dowels in wood. Use that copper tube bender as you round each dowel. With a 4 in PVC tube you could probably get 5-7 "S"s from the top of the PVC to the bottom. When making the "S"s, you could measure the total linear length of the "S" run and cut the tubing for easier maneuverability.

With this design the air would pass over the "S" shaped copper tubes exposing the maximum surface area to cooling and minimizing the restriction of air flow.

I could be wrong and it may be infeasible to do, unless you are patient. I hope I was clear enough so you know what I’m talking about. I will try to draw this up and scan it in and show you. Just thinking and trying to maximize efficiency

 

[SOG]

i still kinda like the idea of runnin something down the middle to force it over the coils.

r u sure?

Hey, your idea could work... like you said, this is brainstorming, right?

Godspeed!

were almost in the aftermath, but storm away

Ok. I have thought about this air cooling in the tube and the thing Gypsy said about making a radiator. A radiator works on the premise that cooler air passes over a lot of surface area of hotter fluid filled tubes with fins for max dispersion of heat and max cooling as the cooler air passes over the tubes. We have the opposite where we have hotter air we want to pass over a larger surface area of tubes filled with cooler fluid. I think you could increase the surface area by making the copper tubes smaller and in a "S" type shape inside a PVC pipe. Since the "S" shaped copper tubes would be cool the PVC would not melt or bend.

If you remember the DYI pool heater on the BBQ, the copper pipes were fashioned in a "S" manner (as if you were drawing a "S" line from one side of the tube to the other from top to bottom) and connected. If you were to look down a PVC tube and Imagine many of these "S" shaped tube structures. The "S" tubes would be connected front to back and back to front inside the PVC tubing to create a continuous tube. Any condensation would flow down the tube and be collected from the end of the PVC.

While I know you think the bigger tubing has a greater surface area, if you calculate the surface area you could fill with the smaller tubing, I think you will find that the smaller tube has a greater surface area. If you used a 5-10 ft joint of PVC and loaded it with 5-10 "S" shaped structures connected, I think you would find the surface area exceeds the coils.

Bending: Maybe use 1/4 or 1/8 in copper tubing. Build a "S" shaped template with dowels in wood. Use that copper tube bender as you round each dowel. With a 4 in PVC tube you could probably get 5-7 "S"s from the top of the PVC to the bottom. When making the "S"s, you could measure the total linear length of the "S" run and cut the tubing for easier maneuverability.

With this design the air would pass over the "S" shaped copper tubes exposing the maximum surface area to cooling and minimizing the restriction of air flow.

I could be wrong and it may be infeasible to do, unless you are patient. I hope I was clear enough so you know what I’m talking about. I will try to draw this up and scan it in and show you. Just thinking and trying to maximize efficiency

i lost you bra

 

[SOG]

here's what i got so far

 

[LoudBlunts]

time to fire up and test

 

[LoudBlunts]

btw, what size res chiller are you planning to run?

 

[danksmoker77]

scrap it and build some s's. just kiddin. ya man if that dont work nothing will. well I shouldn't say that! What I'm sayin is, this should work. And, if it dosen't it still looks pretty cool so its all good. And i like the dividers they will help to esure the air flow is not right down the center. Im tryin hard to think what else it needs but havin trouble comin up with something.

Ahhh man i just downloaded all 7 seasons and 2 movies of the trailer park boys. Those guys are hilarious. You guys all know the trailer park boys right!

 

[SOG]

btw, what size res chiller are you planning to run?

was gonna pickup the smallest one the store has, they are mad expensive
any recommendations anyone, i haven't had a chance to research much
are they loud? how fast do they chill a cycle?
how much water do they hold per cycle?

 

[SOG]

Im tryin hard to think what else it needs but havin trouble comin up with something.

hmm... how about this lil twister

 

[LoudBlunts]

was gonna pickup the smallest one the store has, they are mad expensive
any recommendations anyone, i haven't had a chance to research much
are they loud? how fast do they chill a cycle?
how much water do they hold per cycle?

i would say anywhere from 1/4 on up to 1hp

all the specs you ask of are relative to size of chiller

 

[LoudBlunts]

hmm... how about this lil twister

looks great

however, i think this is the reason for better efficiency when it comes to radiators as its easier to 'blow through' in this situation

air may have a hard time getting through that but i guess anything is possible with a big ass fan, no?

 

[SOG]

looks great

however, i think this is the reason for better efficiency when it comes to radiators as its easier to 'blow through' in this situation

air may have a hard time getting through that but i guess anything is possible with a big ass fan, no?

yes the air is restricted, this is the desired affect we are looking for
not to allow unrestricted air flow through the coils, we want the stream to hit every possible cold piece of exposed aluminum or copper it can hit on its way out
this is also the case with regular radiators,
accept there is more restriction on a wider shorter face area
then with my design

 

[LoudBlunts]

yea i know its the point...

i just wonder how much of a hit the cfm will take.

what you say?

 

[SOG]

yea i know its the point...

i just wonder how much of a hit the cfm will take.

what you say?

the line will be almost constant pushing out hot air
from 3 x 667cfm light exhausting fans,
in addition every few minutes the fresh air will cycle a load adding another two fans to the main stream,
and two AC units exhausting their hot air with their fans

all going from individual 8" > central 10" > then exhausting out through the main 12" portion

i think there will be enough airflow in the ducting,
beside I'm failing to see how loosing cfm at the end point when the heat is exhausted is an issue?

 

[LoudBlunts]

i misunderstood, my bad

 

[SOG]

i misunderstood, my bad

np LB,
what were you thinking about?
I'm curious, cause i think guys think this is sort of an icebox DIY imitation
I'm utilizing the concept with a much more advance design
for a much more demanding application such as a main exhaust line

another application this can be good for, is reducing attic heat buildup
running this connected to a thermostat that switches on at a curtain temp
and circulating the hot air in the attic chilling it down, thous will reduce AC usage at the house level,
in our application the chiller can be turned off at winter time to help warming up the house

judging by the feedback I'm getting from guys i showed the coil and explained my goal
they all told me to mail myself a sealed envelop with BP and patent this
its a long shoot, but who knows
maybe one day you can get this at your local home depot
what do you guys think, is this possible or am i tokeing to much