PH in soil

workinit

workinit

Well-Known Member
Hello, could someone please explain how PH works in soil, ie, how it changes based upon PH of water and nutes. How PH changes as water is absorbed, etc.
Thanks
 
workinit said:
Hello, could someone please explain how PH works in soil, ie, how it changes based upon PH of water and nutes. How PH changes as water is absorbed, etc.
Thanks
Click to expand...

The soil has lots of stuff in it, lets call them pH buffers, that can change slowly over time but mostly have a constant effect on pH. As you add water/nutes, which have their own pH, they will mix with the pH buffers in the soil and shift to a pH somewhere between the two. To measure the change, simply measure the pH of runoff when watering. Ideally, if the pH of the runoff is about right then it's safe to assume the pH of the moisture still inside the soil is about right. Although, as your question implies you already know, the pH buffers in the soil will continue to shift things a bit.

Overall, as long as the pH buffers in the soil aren't terribly off, a little pH fluctuation isn't so bad. Different nutrients are taken up in different concnetrations at different pH ranges, so it's really of most benefit to simply get close, within the right range, rather then focus on attaining a single pH every time.
 
vh13 said:
The soil has lots of stuff in it, lets call them pH buffers, that can change slowly over time but mostly have a constant effect on pH. As you add water/nutes, which have their own pH, they will mix with the pH buffers in the soil and shift to a pH somewhere between the two. To measure the change, simply measure the pH of runoff when watering. Ideally, if the pH of the runoff is about right then it's safe to assume the pH of the moisture still inside the soil is about right. Although, as your question implies you already know, the pH buffers in the soil will continue to shift things a bit.

Overall, as long as the pH buffers in the soil aren't terribly off, a little pH fluctuation isn't so bad. Different nutrients are taken up in different concnetrations at different pH ranges, so it's really of most benefit to simply get close, within the right range, rather then focus on attaining a single pH every time.
Click to expand...

Very well said, and in a way that's easy to understand.
+rep buddy. :blsmoke:
 
What do you guys think is the ideal PH to mix your nutrients for soil?

Is 6.4 nice?

ps...Using GHE flora series nutrients.
 
vh13 said:
The soil has lots of stuff in it, lets call them pH buffers, that can change slowly over time but mostly have a constant effect on pH. As you add water/nutes, which have their own pH, they will mix with the pH buffers in the soil and shift to a pH somewhere between the two. To measure the change, simply measure the pH of runoff when watering. Ideally, if the pH of the runoff is about right then it's safe to assume the pH of the moisture still inside the soil is about right. Although, as your question implies you already know, the pH buffers in the soil will continue to shift things a bit.

Overall, as long as the pH buffers in the soil aren't terribly off, a little pH fluctuation isn't so bad. Different nutrients are taken up in different concnetrations at different pH ranges, so it's really of most benefit to simply get close, within the right range, rather then focus on attaining a single pH every time.
Click to expand...

+rep as well. really well put and easy to understand.

One thing I would add that lots of people overlook is how "hard" the water is and how this can make testing the pH after adding anything to the water really important depending on your h2o source. If you use distilled or RO water, you can skew the pH very easily because there is nothing in the water to buffer an acid or base that is added. for instance if I use a capful of 9% vinegar in a gallon of my well water, it will bring the pH to a decent 6-7 pH. But if I did that with distilled, I'd be outside my measurement range somewhere less than 3pH. ferts with N tend to send pH down, and high P or K tend to send it up, but in different degrees.

hope this isn't just redundant :dunce: "Just call me Captain Duncil"
 
i know this isnt your question but adding lime to the soil will give you a little more room to fuck up with ph
 
phenotype said:
Thanks pinkus,
I've got a cheap liquid test kit.

13 litres of water (hard) and 1ml ph down seems to bring the water down to 6.4

Gonna try that level then.
Click to expand...

no prob. do you have municipal water or a well? i don't even use the water from my faucet (well water) for my weed except in a pinch~it tastes great, but ultimately to many solids. even ph ballanced the excess minerals interfere with each other. easier to use RO water from the store :bigjoint:
 
I'm just using drinking water from my tap. It comes from the mains supply and is the only practical option I've got.

Plants seem to like it going from past experience.

It makes a great cup of tea too,

mmm tea ;-)
 
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