Ok now what?!?

[madness]

Hey all, not exactly sure what is happening.

Last action I took before this developed.

Did a flush 3 days ago because of suspicion of over ferting. Just water 6.5ph.
Now, correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like a Mag def.

Suggestions very welcome!

 

[Nugglet]

They look a little over watered but you did say you just flushed them. I would break away from the nutes for a while if i were you see if they heal.. I just recovered from a nute burn myself. It completly set me back hardcore. Fried like 3 nodes off the bottem.... ouch i know.

 

[desert fox]

colors seems WAY WAY off to me. I sprout more beans if you got em. Got any pics before you did the flush? I suspect over watering with some type of complications in the ferts you were using.

whatca using for ferts and soil?

 

[Green Cross]

Looks like a bad case of nute burn

 

[Nugglet]

Agreed with the colour problem, it looks off. Should be alot darker green bro. But ya you might be able to pull through it. Just be skimpy on your water now that u flushed it and don't use nutes. What soil u working with? Is it organic or got some feeding shit in it prior?

 

[madness]

colors seems WAY WAY off to me. I sprout more beans if you got em. Got any pics before you did the flush? I suspect over watering with some type of complications in the ferts you were using.

whatca using for ferts and soil?

Here is a pic 3 days ago.... looked good then.

 

[Nugglet]

ya it did. Before or after u added the Nutes? maybe they just set in and started burning.. not sure dude but you got a nute burn problem for sure

 

[madness]

Here is a pic 3 days ago.... looked good then.

PH: 6.5
PPM: 540
Temp: 79
Soil: Organic hydroponic medium (Coco Fiber, perlite, etc, mixed with organic soil (70 hydro/30 soil)
Water: Cristal Natural Spring Water
Nutes: Grow 6-4-3
Light: 600w sodium
Light Period: 24hrs
Over all time: day 30

 

[madness]

ya it did. Before or after u added the Nutes? maybe they just set in and started burning.. not sure dude but you got a nute burn problem for sure

That last pic of all of them was before I flushed. No nutes at all just 6.5 h2o

 

[madness]

colors seems WAY WAY off to me. I sprout more beans if you got em. Got any pics before you did the flush? I suspect over watering with some type of complications in the ferts you were using.

whatca using for ferts and soil?

Using organic ferts. weird thing is that I flushed and it was just water. nothing else.

PH: 6.5
PPM: 540
Temp: 79
Soil: Organic hydroponic medium (Coco Fiber, perlite, etc, mixed with organic soil (70 hydro/30 soil)
Water: Cristal Natural Spring Water
Nutes: Grow 6-4-3
Light: 600w sodium
Light Period: 24hrs
Over all time: day 30

 

[madness]

ya it did. Before or after u added the Nutes? maybe they just set in and started burning.. not sure dude but you got a nute burn problem for sure

Hey, you know what. Before the flush the ph was about 7. I flushed with 6.2. Do you think it freed up a nute lock?

 

[TVMASDL]

Looks like a nute burn, I see you've already flushed. That's good.

Give em a week or so and you'll see recovery, be sparse with the water. Wait until the planter is totally dry before you water again. Roots need air too.

Good luck.

 

[desert fox]

The pic before the flush looks like you should have been running higher in Nitrogen. Very good size for 30 days considering you were just running off the nutes in your soil. I think I read your post correctly???

I dont see any indications that they needed a flush in the first place. My guess is because you were already running low ferts and then flushed heavily creating a overwatered, under nuted plant. You just created a fixable not so bad situation to a awfull situation. I think recovery is going to be slow slow slow. Your fan leaves will drop. Dont even think about watering untill it is 100% on the verge of drying up. just go easy on her, and still sprout more beans that way you aint wasting your time if she doesnt pull through. perfect canidate for clones, but root structure and all that jazz is going to take a while to recoupe if you plan on flowering them. If your going for TREES they still got a lot of potential. If you were planning to throw them into 12/12 within the next month I think its a dead horse. N deficency when going into flowering is pointless.

 

[Phenom420]

let them dry out real well before watering them again, wait till the soil is very dry, almost where they are about to wilt from lack of water.
Thats how I fixed mine after some outta wach nute or ph issue I couldn't ID
The damaged leaves will probably not get better but you should see new growth in 2 weeks or so.
Hope this helps.

 

[madness]

The pic before the flush looks like you should have been running higher in Nitrogen. Very good size for 30 days considering you were just running off the nutes in your soil. I think I read your post correctly???

I dont see any indications that they needed a flush in the first place. My guess is because you were already running low ferts and then flushed heavily creating a overwatered, under nuted plant. You just created a fixable not so bad situation to a awfull situation. I think recovery is going to be slow slow slow. Your fan leaves will drop. Dont even think about watering untill it is 100% on the verge of drying up. just go easy on her, and still sprout more beans that way you aint wasting your time if she doesnt pull through. perfect canidate for clones, but root structure and all that jazz is going to take a while to recoupe if you plan on flowering them. If your going for TREES they still got a lot of potential. If you were planning to throw them into 12/12 within the next month I think its a dead horse. N deficency when going into flowering is pointless.

Hey Desert Fox, What boggles me is that before I flushed (I think you seen the pic) they were fine. I don't have a PH meter cause I had to order it into the country. But well I've been wanting them to be darker (more N) but it just doesn't seen to want to get there.
Anyways, yes, I want to make trees (moms) so it's not all lost I hope.
I was feeding them around 500ppm before the flush every 4 days.
Do you think the flush released a nute lock? thus the reason they were not getting enough N?
Anyways, pic below with all of them and the over health. What's your thoughts?

 

[madness]

let them dry out real well before watering them again, wait till the soil is very dry, almost where they are about to wilt from lack of water.
Thats how I fixed mine after some outta wach nute or ph issue I couldn't ID
The damaged leaves will probably not get better but you should see new growth in 2 weeks or so.
Hope this helps.

I'm thinking the same, waiting out for the soil to dry out. I'm really perplexed on why the flush (just H2o) would have done that.

 

[desert fox]

Hey Desert Fox, What boggles me is that before I flushed (I think you seen the pic) they were fine. I don't have a PH meter cause I had to order it into the country. But well I've been wanting them to be darker (more N) but it just doesn't seen to want to get there.
Anyways, yes, I want to make trees (moms) so it's not all lost I hope.
I was feeding them around 500ppm before the flush every 4 days.
Do you think the flush released a nute lock? thus the reason they were not getting enough N?
Anyways, pic below with all of them and the over health. What's your thoughts?

My though are...Nitrogen is a pretty tough thing to lock out according to your PH. 5.5 to 8.5 is an acceptable range for N to be available to the plant. N sources generally have a low PH. So your soil gradually becomes more acidic as your grow continues. I doubt it was caused from high PH because other plant issues would be present. Iron, Mag, Boron, copper and zinc mainly with high PH. All these trace defiency are very easy to diagnose and fix cuz they are lumped into one. Cal mag or epson salt are ussually the nice fixes in those cases.

So I can only assume that if you honestly think its a PH problem. It would be extremely low PH of 5 or below. It would be better to add a quick reacting buffer like baking soda rather than trying to fix it with a heavy flush.

I aint to keen on the coco. Some swear by it in hydro, but I dont think it has much business being in a soil/soil less mix or at least in the high % you are running. stick with perlite and vermeculite to get your soil consistancy. Both have a PH of 7. I know that Coco claims to have a nutral PH, however it is breaking down in soil. It wont break down the same in Hydro since bacteria and sterility are a must. Soil on the other hand is so diverse in bacteria and microbes that are designed to decay anything that was organic at one time. Mother nature is one bad ass chemist. You have a perfect setup for it to start decay sending your PH lower everytime. Just like peat moss. Throw that on top of a high N diet (Both acting to lower your PH) I could see it locking out N. I say ditch the coco and that should fix the problem for good. Just my take.

Oh and +rep. Great documentation, info, and pics.

 

[madness]

My though are...Nitrogen is a pretty tough thing to lock out according to your PH. 5.5 to 8.5 is an acceptable range for N to be available to the plant. N sources generally have a low PH. So your soil gradually becomes more acidic as your grow continues. I doubt it was caused from high PH because other plant issues would be present. Iron, Mag, Boron, copper and zinc mainly with high PH. All these trace defiency are very easy to diagnose and fix cuz they are lumped into one. Cal mag or epson salt are ussually the nice fixes in those cases.

So I can only assume that if you honestly think its a PH problem. It would be extremely low PH of 5 or below. It would be better to add a quick reacting buffer like baking soda rather than trying to fix it with a heavy flush.

I aint to keen on the coco. Some swear by it in hydro, but I dont think it has much business being in a soil/soil less mix or at least in the high % you are running. stick with perlite and vermeculite to get your soil consistancy. Both have a PH of 7. I know that Coco claims to have a nutral PH, however it is breaking down in soil. It wont break down the same in Hydro since bacteria and sterility are a must. Soil on the other hand is so diverse in bacteria and microbes that are designed to decay anything that was organic at one time. Mother nature is one bad ass chemist. You have a perfect setup for it to start decay sending your PH lower everytime. Just like peat moss. Throw that on top of a high N diet (Both acting to lower your PH) I could see it locking out N. I say ditch the coco and that should fix the problem for good. Just my take.

Oh and +rep. Great documentation, info, and pics.

Ok well from what you are saying it doesn't sound like it's all doomed. a friend suggested that I ditch the dirt all togetherr, clean the roots and get them in the clay pellets. I'm afraid it might shock the shit out of them if I do that. Although, I'm not a pro at this.
But what do you think is the cause for the burn when all I did was flush with h2o?
At first I thought because of the flush I gave it a mag def (looking at sick plant picks), reason is I really can't see how I couold have burned them with just water. Very weird. Thanks for the + rep. And thanks for your imput!

 

[desert fox]

Ok well from what you are saying it doesn't sound like it's all doomed. a friend suggested that I ditch the dirt all togetherr, clean the roots and get them in the clay pellets. I'm afraid it might shock the shit out of them if I do that. Although, I'm not a pro at this.
But what do you think is the cause for the burn when all I did was flush with h2o?
At first I thought because of the flush I gave it a mag def (looking at sick plant picks), reason is I really can't see how I couold have burned them with just water. Very weird. Thanks for the + rep. And thanks for your imput!

I think you are correct you. It would shock the shit out of them. Thats the beutiful thing about working with smaller pots and transplanting. It like a reset button, but those pots are large in relation to plant size to do much good.

I doubt it was a burn of any kind. It is just showing deficency due to poor root health.
Its just robbing peter to pay paul. Peter is the leaves, paul is the overall health of the plant to survive and start to thrive. ya dig?

IMO clay pellets are better choice than coco. Less chance for salt buildup than coco. Both have diffrent water retention properties based on how it is proccessed and size alone. So chunks of coco in soil would get diffrent results than the fine ground stuff that you have. Does that make sense? However I still think you got to pick a side like democrat or republican. Picking a side; hydro or soil will save you alot of complications being new. I have seen some skunk magazine articals refering to I think "artificial reef, quantum living organic???" It was a 5 part series. It was using Coco, soil, worm castings, oyster shells (can be sub for domolite) and tons of other great organic stuff in the mix. The backbone was based on coco and soil (similar to what your using now). It was some advanced reading. Your % of mix has to be correct. I wouldnt reccomend it for a beginner cuz it had so much info it could make your head spin, but the pics of those bad ass ladies still is engrained in my head.

 

[madness]

I think you are correct you. It would shock the shit out of them. Thats the beutiful thing about working with smaller pots and transplanting. It like a reset button, but those pots are large in relation to plant size to do much good.

I doubt it was a burn of any kind. It is just showing deficency due to poor root health.
Its just robbing peter to pay paul. Peter is the leaves, paul is the overall health of the plant to survive and start to thrive. ya dig?

IMO clay pellets are better choice than coco. Less chance for salt buildup than coco. Both have diffrent water retention properties based on how it is proccessed and size alone. So chunks of coco in soil would get diffrent results than the fine ground stuff that you have. Does that make sense? However I still think you got to pick a side like democrat or republican. Picking a side; hydro or soil will save you alot of complications being new. I have seen some skunk magazine articals refering to I think "artificial reef, quantum living organic???" It was a 5 part series. It was using Coco, soil, worm castings, oyster shells (can be sub for domolite) and tons of other great organic stuff in the mix. The backbone was based on coco and soil (similar to what your using now). It was some advanced reading. Your % of mix has to be correct. I wouldnt reccomend it for a beginner cuz it had so much info it could make your head spin, but the pics of those bad ass ladies still is engrained in my head.

Guess what, as I may or may not have mentioned. I was using an aquarium freshwater PH tester kit. My PH after adding the nutes to my water was 3.8, thus the reason for the deficiencies.

My PH meter is my new best friend!