1 month flowering. Check them out +rep for helpful info
- Thread starter irpwns
- Start date
chillindude420
Active Member
Your leaves are curling at the tip top. I got the same problem man. Whats the deal with that?
if.I.grow.it.theywillcome
New Member
i got the curl pretty bad too. what stage did yours start doing that? i am about a week behind you on flowering.
cbtwohundread
Well-Known Member
could be from the heat of the cfl's they run cool but can still get hot and burn,i also dont see a fan of any sort u have one?,,the buds should be a lil fatter u should probably get a couple more lights and position them in a diffrent manner if ya get wat im talking,,,but nice grow
Drevan
Member
Looks like the "claw" to me. There is another post here with someone having a similar issue
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/45268-day-16-flower-nitrogen-claw-2.html
Hopefully the thread can help you center in on what the issue is, and some methods to fix it.
My 2 cents would be to flush, make sure your Ph is correct and that you are not overfeeding them.
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/45268-day-16-flower-nitrogen-claw-2.html
Hopefully the thread can help you center in on what the issue is, and some methods to fix it.
My 2 cents would be to flush, make sure your Ph is correct and that you are not overfeeding them.
pennywise619
Well-Known Member
Leaf curl/cupping & leaf margin rolling-signs of Plant Moisture Stress
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
4. Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
All of the above issues relate to a plant's internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If water pressure within the plant's stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par, whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be.... the leaves and/or stems will droop.
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
4. Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
All of the above issues relate to a plant's internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If water pressure within the plant's stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par, whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be.... the leaves and/or stems will droop.
The Members
Well-Known Member
Looks nice
BlackRoses
Well-Known Member
Those plants either need more water or more sunlight.. or both 
The plant looks good, I would recommend replacing those lamps with 105W CFL's that can plug into a standard E27 socket for extra light and warmth.
They are really friendly on the electric bill and works 30x better then what you're using..
They're about 16 euros/ lamp so it might set you back a bit, but well worth it in the end.
I would say mix it up with 2600k and 5500k's so the plants can benefit from both spectrum's.
So 3x 2600k for flowering and 3x 5500k for extra growth.. or if you think your plants are big enough, get 4x 2600k and 2x 5500k
All together plus shipping maybe 100euros, but those buds will triple in size in no time!
And your leaves will thank you later too.
Also if you get more then 105W CFL's you'll have to get E40 fittings too and well that's extra work and money.
The plant looks good, I would recommend replacing those lamps with 105W CFL's that can plug into a standard E27 socket for extra light and warmth.
They are really friendly on the electric bill and works 30x better then what you're using..
They're about 16 euros/ lamp so it might set you back a bit, but well worth it in the end.
I would say mix it up with 2600k and 5500k's so the plants can benefit from both spectrum's.
So 3x 2600k for flowering and 3x 5500k for extra growth.. or if you think your plants are big enough, get 4x 2600k and 2x 5500k
All together plus shipping maybe 100euros, but those buds will triple in size in no time!
And your leaves will thank you later too.
Also if you get more then 105W CFL's you'll have to get E40 fittings too and well that's extra work and money.
chillindude420
Active Member
Its a nitrogen def. in vegetative growth. Just figured it out.
chillindude420
Active Member
And because of over fertilization, Im pretty sure. Im gonna try to cut down on the nutes and maybe even flush my soil.
strangerdude562
Well-Known Member
Holy shit, that is 9 months old??? Time to switch to hps ditch the cfl's
chillindude420
Active Member
Yep must of stunned the plants growth or something or maybe that strain takes a bit longer and will be really potent at the end! Hope the buds good buddy.
strangerdude562
Well-Known Member
lmao..........
chillindude420
Active Member
oh haha. I thought it was gonna be a super dank batch! But yep that sounds more legit.
pennywise619
Well-Known Member
Nitrogen def in flowering is common, but those leaves are not YELLOW which is a common symptom in -N- defs. The leaves are cupped down, because they are trying to preserve moisture indicating heat stress and or low humidity.....
chillindude420
Active Member
Good thinking pennywise. Thanks buddy.
pennywise619
Well-Known Member
No problem, just here to learn and help others from what I have learned, oh and show all oh you my grows LOL..... Danky Dank......