Making Tea - is EZ.... & Cheap !

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
Hey Ohso, reading that last post, iv been feeding my 6 month(still vegging) a guano of 10-10-2. It seems like my plant is happy and continuing to need the tea feeding every time, but will that P stay in my soil for 4 to 8 weeks and lock out N, or is my plant using all the P im giving it. I plan on flowering in a little over a week, about the same time that i give my next feeding.
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Swishatwista..... The P will not lock out N directly, what tends to happen with higher P ferts is they push pH up to 7 or above. The soil pH being that high (alkaline) is what locks out N.
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Also, if you have been making tea (only the soluble NPK) is being watered in. So the insoluble, for the most part, is the crud left at the bottom of your tea bucket. If you haven't been topdressing it around your plant, the extra insoluble NPK is not building up.
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If you have been topdressing your leftover tea crud, then that insoluble NPK is building up. It will take time to break down, so sudden nute burn is probably not an issue. But pH issues are an issue, when you get too many insoluble nutes in your soil mix.
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Which guano would you prefer to start my first week of flowering, i was thinking the 10-10-2 seeing as i want to still give it N but also help it kick into flowering with the 10% soluable P. Would this be correct or should i start off with more of a N tea?
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To start flowering, reduce your N input and increase you P & K inputs. Look for a bat guano with numbers like 3-10-1 or 0-7-0 (my personal favorite) If you don't reduce you N, the plant will keep growing more vegetatively. Your goal is to get some flowering action.
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Also, im wanting feed it a tea consisting of about 9-9-9, maybe a little higher, for the 3rd week. Will this be too much for the plant to handle and over dose on cal or lock anything out?
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That's too much N, you want to reduce you N input to around 2 or 3, with P at 7 to 12, and K at 5 to 15.

Lastly, what do you think my 5th week NPK count would be, i have a high P guano, somewhere around 1-12-1. would that be sufficant for it? If it helps the plant is Blueberry, and is said to have an 8 week flowering period.
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A true Blueberry is very fert sensitive (easy to nute burn / very light feeders). If you've been feeding 10-10-2, with no signs of nute burning - I'm sorry to inform you, you're not growing a true Blueberry.
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Your 1-12-1 will work for the 5th week. It would work for the first four weeks of flowering, if you used it at a reduced mixing strength in your tea. Then add some composted cow manure, bunny poop, composted chicken manure or a similar source of N (in between 2 and a max of 4). Try and keep your NPK, more P & K during flowering, with just enough N to keep your lady green, so she finishes with well.
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I always let my girls strip all the N from older fan leaves the last two weeks of flowering, this ensures the best burn (smoother) and best taste (fuller - more flavors).
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If you could anwswer my questions it'd appreciated, thanks Ohso
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You're welcome. I hope this helps...
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Keep it Real....Organic.....
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donkeyote

Active Member
I've got 3 quick questions...

1. When i do a light feeding with just molasses and SPT, does it need to be bubbled and if so, then for how long?

2. When i get to the final weeks of flowering, is there an organic 'bloom booster' that needs to be applied, and if so , recommendations?

3. Is Gravity considered organic and if so, then what are some peoples results with it in a totally organic setting?
 

misty&mike

Member
i want to tell the tea guy how i make my tea and see what you think, if its bad for my plants this way, even though im gonna try some of the stuff you said. i use rabbit poop, about 2 3 inches at the bottom of a five gallon bucket, and then i add all the weeds i can mash down in the bucket. i let that sit for at least a week to ten days. then i pour that into gallon jugs. i add little of that to my water almost everytime i water. you said earth smell, mine can gag you. what do you think am i doing my plants wrong? also what you think of egg shell tea? thanks for any input, misty
 

bossman88188

Well-Known Member
i want to tell the tea guy how i make my tea and see what you think, if its bad for my plants this way, even though im gonna try some of the stuff you said. i use rabbit poop, about 2 3 inches at the bottom of a five gallon bucket, and then i add all the weeds i can mash down in the bucket. i let that sit for at least a week to ten days. then i pour that into gallon jugs. i add little of that to my water almost everytime i water. you said earth smell, mine can gag you. what do you think am i doing my plants wrong? also what you think of egg shell tea? thanks for any input, misty
You need to read this thread again. And a few more.
Look up all threads started by ohsogreen. And you will learn what you need to know.
There are also many other great organic grower's on here.
But to me that tea sound's really bad.
weed's mashed in the bucket? Not good.
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
I've got 3 quick questions...

1. When i do a light feeding with just molasses and SPT, does it need to be bubbled and if so, then for how long?

2. When i get to the final weeks of flowering, is there an organic 'bloom booster' that needs to be applied, and if so , recommendations?

3. Is Gravity considered organic and if so, then what are some peoples results with it in a totally organic setting?
I can't really answer you other questions but I am using Gravity now on some Satori's I'm growing organically. I applied it for the second time yesterday, after the first application the buds are growing kind of mutated but very dense.

Not sure about it yet but time will tell I guess. :peace:
 

bossman88188

Well-Known Member
the weeds have other nutes in them
That is not how it work's IMO.
I would love to give you a full explanation but it would take a long time.
All the info you need is on here.
Just take the time to search for it.
The weeds in the bucket really is not good.
Anything like that must be composted first.
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
I've got 3 quick questions...

1. When i do a light feeding with just molasses and SPT, does it need to be bubbled and if so, then for how long?
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No it does not have to be bubbled. That being said, bubbling it for 6 hours, doubles the number of micro-beasties in the mix.

2. When i get to the final weeks of flowering, is there an organic 'bloom booster' that needs to be applied, and if so , recommendations?
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The easiest way to boost buddage, double the mixing strength of the Flower Power for 3 or 4 weeks, after week 2 of flowering.
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Those mega 0-50-30 bloom boosters everyone sells, are more potential problems than payoff.

3. Is Gravity considered organic and if so, then what are some peoples results with it in a totally organic setting?
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I'm not sure about wheter it is organic or not, I have never used it. I've seen it seriously F' up numerous grows by my hydro friends. Seems it's like playing with d-y-n-o-mite.
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The best way to get maximum buddage: feed & water, low, slow & steady. Overfeeding & Overwatering, are responsible for more loss of yield than anything else.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic......
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Pss... Products claiming massive increases in buddage, deliver more promises than results. Stick with the basics........
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Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
i want to tell the tea guy how i make my tea and see what you think, if its bad for my plants this way, even though im gonna try some of the stuff you said. i use rabbit poop, about 2 3 inches at the bottom of a five gallon bucket, and then i add all the weeds i can mash down in the bucket. i let that sit for at least a week to ten days. then i pour that into gallon jugs. i add little of that to my water almost everytime i water. you said earth smell, mine can gag you. what do you think am i doing my plants wrong? also what you think of egg shell tea? thanks for any input, misty
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Misty&Mike..... Using the bunny poop in your tea is fine (a couple of cups per gallon of water is best). Leave the weeds out (compost them instead).
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Also, you need to add oxygen to your tea, either using a small aquarium air pump, or by pouring it from bucket to bucket, twice daily.
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If you use an air pump, bubble it for 24 to 72 hours for best results. You can bubble it longer, but there is no real advantage to doing so.
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If using the bucket to bucket method. After the third day, use it immediately. The number of micro-beasties in the mix will great enough by the end of the third day, that they will begin to use up the oxygen in the mix, much faster. Possibly leading to an anaerobic condition (souring tea).
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Hope this helps.......
Keep it Real....Organic....
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Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
the weeds have other nutes in them
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Misty&Mike..... That is true, but composting them is best. The nutes in the weeds are locked in the plant fiber. They will only be released by bacterial action or weathering (composting is a combo of both actions).
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Letting them sit in water with your bunny poop is actually removing Nitrogen from the mix. Part of the N is being locked up by the weeds themselves.
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Use the bunny poop for your tea, compost the weeds. It's a win / win situation, when done that way.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic.....
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Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
Let's recycle this old thread. Teas are cheap, effective ways to feed Mary without breaking the bank.
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Hope this helps someone...
Keep it Real....Organic.....
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canefan

Well-Known Member
Let's recycle this old thread. Teas are cheap, effective ways to feed Mary without breaking the bank.
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Hope this helps someone...
Keep it Real....Organic.....
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Oh So glad to see up back and posting again. I certainly hope that you are feeling better.:lol:
 

kronic1989

Well-Known Member
Hello OhsoGreen. I have been reading through multiple pages of your organics knowledge. After about 25 pages. I decided I would ask you instead of trying to find the answers I was looking for. I just have a few quick questions.

I am all for organics. You cant beat the taste or texture of it! trees were born on july 1st, picked up some Botanicare Pure Blend PRO GROW 3-2-4(premium natural and organic plant food). Started applyign this 2.5 weeks into life(every watering,except a few). at week 5.5weeks I changed the cycle to 12-12.
-Is this fert okay? am i applying it to often? I am almost sure it is not considered chems, (thats what the guy told me anyways)

Also I am growing in pro-mix(soilless i geuss). Since flowering has started i picked up Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Bloom 2.5-2.5 premium organic plant food. I have been applying the food to the water for almost every watering(skipping some here and there or diluting it more).
-Again. this fert is okay correct? certified to ohsogreens requirements? Everything seems to be going okay. The flowers are looking nice. I just want to make sure this is enough for maximum potential of the stargazer strain.

I am considering going to the store to get molasses. It seems like it could really benefit my beauties.

Would this be okay ?

30ml of nuters added to 1 gal of water(15 ml less than recommended)
then add about 7-14 ml of molasses directly to the water. mix for about 10 mins to mix the molasses around then go on to feeding?

This is just what i think i should do from where i am right now. Anyone else who has better idea of where im headed your input would be greatly appreciated.

so they have about 30 days left in flowering. they're 6 feet tall. I was going to buy cal mag to resolve some bronzing spotting on some leaves but it has slowed down. doesnt pose a threat right now. thanks for your time :)

sorry for the sloppy arrangement of statements and questions. Momma always told me to put the bong down.
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
Kronic1989.... Botanicare PBP nutes are organic and well made. The fact that your plant looks healthy, is growing steadily and putting on flowers, means you are feeding properly.
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Since the Pro-mix (original mix) is a sterile medium (devoid of life), using unsulphured molasses would not benefit your plant. It's the bacteria and fungi in the soil that breakdown amendments like molasses. Without them, the molasses would just gum up the works, since there is nothing in the medium to break it down and release the trace minerals and NPK.
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Now, if you are using the Pro-mix BX with added beneficial bacteria & fungi, then using the molasses would provide some benefits.
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Since you have not used molasses with this plant before, I'd start out with 1 teaspoon (5 ml) per gallon of unchlorinated water, then slowly increase in small increments of 1/2 to 1 teaspoon. I generally discontinure use of anything the last two weeks, except unchlorinated water.
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Some people freak when they see the fan leaves turning yellow and falling off those last two weeks. Not me, I like to see this. It let's me know for sure, the plant has used up the majority of N in the soil and is in full ripening (aka-finishing) mode. By letting it strip out the NPK from those fan leaves, you are ensuring that no fertilizer buildup has occurred, which can make plants burn harsh and taste nasty.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic....
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Corwin

Active Member
Thanks Ohso for the great thread!

I have just read through the forum and found it a great start to me considering making the change to organics with mary.
I have always tried to do so outside and never use chem pesticides or ferts in my yard.
This sounds like it could be more economical than all the money I have been giving Canna .
I will have to do a grow and see with my strain and see how it compares.

A product I have not seen you guys talk about is Yucca extract or juice.
It is a bio stimulant that would be my guess for one of the main ingredients in products like SPT.
Along with kelp and microbes.

Another item I thought might help make it more user friendly for me at least is a way to kind of get a handle on the NPK of a particular blend of ingredients.
A calculator like all the big chem fert. companies have online.
At first I thought I should keep my mouth shut on that one for fear of sounding like I was volunteering.
Then I did a search online and found one.
It should give us a place to start and it can keep track of cost and NPK.
It is based on excel 2003 so you will need that, or later, or something that can open it.

http://smallfarms.oregonstate.edu/organic-fertilizer-calculator


Enjoy
 

mv400

Active Member
I have been reading this thread, not all but some and I must say it is such a wonderful thing you are doing, sharing your knowledge with noobs like myself :) About useful bacteria and fungi, I wonder why peeps don't use organic humic acid/fulvic acid mix. I have been reading about these acids and must say their effect on soil is amazing. They trigger useful bacteria creation, not to mention adjust soil pH by breaking down salts or alkalies. Oh and they enable us to reuse our soil. I recently started to grow and added that mix to my water and things are going pretty well *knocking on wood :)*. Just add you plant water in every 15 days and let them enable balanced nutrient uptake. Oh, they are cheap too :)
 
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