SoG Grow Room Discussion

jberry

Well-Known Member
yea cuz JBerry i was about to call you a serious BALLER for dropping $250-350 on a quart!!
i would and will if need be, i could supply myself and everyone i know for a lifetime at 1ml per gallon for foliars!

i already go through 5 liters of rhizo's and everything else like its nothin so i have no problem spending big money when i believe in the product. i would buy the quart of floramite if my shop stopped selling it (which is what they tell people they dont know cuz i guess their breaking laws or somethin by re-bottling it)

might try that h&g root exlrtr. you recomend but i love my canna line for coco... otherwise i would go H&G.

sorry rambling stoner here haha
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
Jberry, this is coming from a Canna head.

i love and cherish all my canna products from the bagged 50L of fine coco to the rhizotonic and cannazym and all the other additives. Hell i still got some Coco A & B

however...i've seen the light


and btw, maybe this will humble you.....The people from House & Garden used to be Canna's top dogs from what i hear. They got tired of Canna wanting to water down the nutes, so they branched off and took their knowledge with them.... spinning off of Canna.... seemingly making a better product.

The only reason why i champion that Roots Excell over Rhizotonic is the fact that it can rid ya of root rot.....AND its more concentrated, not to mention you also use less..... so it last hella longer

and i know what you mean about 5L of rhizo..... i do it myself. i have a love/hate relationship dropping $250 plus on 5L of rhizo and the other $150 on the 5L of cannazym.....

so i feel ya bro!
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
sog, i forgot to tell you, when u spray the floramite, turn off your HID lights (so u dont burn yer girls) and just use a normal 100 watt bulb or whatever u got to get enough light to keep yer photoperiod going. dont let some hippie at the store talk u out of using it either, the stuff is fine if used with common sense.

loudblunts, the only reason i dont use the h&g line is bcuz of the shooting powder...
i use each batch of coco twice and then throw it out. i can use shooting powder on the second cycle (and i have recently) but not on the first cuz h&g says not to re-use the coco if u used shooting powder.

never had any rot issues, i think the trichaderma in the coco and the cannazym are my insurance policy as far as that goes.
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
oh no root rot issues with coco.... i love the trichaderma that coco naturally harnesses...

for the roots excell and root rot, i was referring to my hydro and aero setups...

i run coco in pots on drippers as well as hydro and aero....

and yea you are right about the coco, as i reuse my coco as well. i use dont use shooting powder in my coco setup....only pk 13/14 or AN's hammerhead pk9/18

but for my aero and hydro? shooting powder forsure!!!!!!!!!! lol
 

greenthumb111

Well-Known Member
brilliant elaboration.


i felt like i woulda confused them if i would have went into detail...

i see you love water just as much as me bro :p

my contacts at the water plant and biological water plants is what turned me onto learning so much about water


also, you are right about RO water not being as pure.....however, i sometimes beg to differ....my stealth RO 100gpd strips EVERYTHING out my water comes out 000ppms. So i think SoG merlin would be a better stripper than its little brother the stealthboy 100. My water comes out so raw out my RO machine, i have to add potassium bicarbonate just so my water can buffer ph (that or mix RO water with tap water at a ratio of 3 gallons RO to 1 gallon tap water)

HOWEVER SoG listen to him, cuz he is right.... i change out my sediment and carbon filters regularly if not at least cleaning them every other month and replacing the RO membrane every year...but that is because like Greenthumb says....your tds WILL rise.
I work with water quality everyday and have used commercial meters for 20+ years. You are right RO will pull most of the dissolved solids out of your water but it wont pull out the ions (maybe not salts) smaller than your RO membrane so technically its not "pure water." Its good enough to drink for me and tastes great.

The one thing to remember on filter changes is input TDS. If your water starts at 100 ppm then you wont need to change your filters as much as if you have water like mine at 370 ppm. The filter changing cost should be a consideration used when purchasing RO units.

THose, and the multimeter Milwaukee meters are nice meters. I bought a Hana multimeter but I think Im going to buy a Milwaukee as my main or backup.

As far as the pH the meters usually will calibrate to 4.01, 7.01 and 10.0 depending if they are range restricted and then you will only have one range 4-7 or 7-10.
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
I work with water quality everyday and have used commertial meters for 20+ years. You are right RO will pull most of the dissolved solids out of your water but it wont pull out the ions (maybe not salts) smaller than your RO membrane so technically its not "pure water." Its good enough to drink for me and tastes great.
ty greenthumb
did some more reading late last night
i also found my RO water could be causing the stains on the leafs
i think i might need to supplement the water with calcium or something
how who'd i go about supplementing water
is it a trial and error, or there is a way of finding out exactly whats missing
my RO comes out @0.22ppm on the tds meter, starts around 380ppm






:joint::peace:
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
you are already supplementing with cal/mag


this is why its needed because RO strips it down


stick with 5mL per gallon and you should be fine
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
ty greenthumb
did some more reading late last night
i also found my RO water could be causing the stains on the leafs
i think i might need to supplement the water with calcium or something
how who'd i go about supplementing water
is it a trial and error, or there is a way of finding out exactly whats missing
my RO comes out @0.22ppm on the tds meter, starts around 380ppm
:joint::peace:


u are supplementing with cal/mag.

i have a merlin too, and after several runs using strictly R/O Water, i now mix my R/O with decloranated tap water to supplement my water... my yields were higher before and after using the merlin.

i got bad results everytime i used pure R/O (plants look good but low yield), not sure why but i think it is because the plant really needs that cal/mag and trace elements, minerals ect.. that is in tap water, (just not the clorine.)

Clorine is whats soo bad and some of the metals as well, but clorine kills your beneficial bacteria :( ... a tall boy is all you really need imo.

Honesty i think declorinated tap water is just fine and it doesnt waste the insane amount of water that the merlin does... i was going eight times over my allowed water limit using the merlin.

most of the ppm's of tap water are cal/mag so by adding cal/mag back in you are covering your basic needs but you may need to add some trace elements/minerals or tap water if you want to get really get in every little thing.

i add a 150-200 ppm's or so of cal/mag and declorinated tap water.
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
ty guys

going crazy this morning trying to get my hand on a fog machine
no one has these, anyone knows where i can pick it up a retail store?





:joint::peace:
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
my hydro shop has them.
if u cant find one than buy a hand held pump sprayer and spray it in a fine mist.
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
after allot of running around and many phone calls
i traced a fogger machine, i actually scored on that one
homedepot rents them for mold, i went over to rent it
found out no one rents these, and its been sitting there for ever
I'm the third person to rent this particular unit through its entire life span
ended up buying it for $87, it was brought in to the shop at end of 07

its all going to be over in just a few
got floramite here,
coco wet wetting agent
and my new fogger tank
I'm armed and ready for war

how should i go about this; i usually over do things (makes me feel better ;))
i have a large room, in which i keep my tent in 9.7" x 9.7" x 6.7"











:joint::peace:
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
damn, looks like a gnarly one!
if u bought it used i would make sure it's hella clean through out all the tubes and everything... who knows what the last person used it for.
not sure how u use that specific fogger but, mix at 2-3 ml per gallon.
apply it all at once and make it count cuz this is your one shot.

you may want to spray some around the outside of your tent as well and designate some clean clothes and shoes for entering your grow room because most of the time its the grower who tracks the mites into the room unknowingly.

also buy a bunch of no pest strips. if you are against putting them in the grow room than put them all over your attic outside the tent.

thats how i roll, and i havent had one bug in the last year, but it use to be a constant battle.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
also, im not sure you need the wetting agent, did the man who sold you the floramite suggest that? I've never used any b4 with floramite but maybe i should?
another thought is that with your fogger/situation only a small portion of the "fog" is going to be hitting the plant... the rest is going all over the equitment and room which obviously doesnt need a wetting agent.
BUT the plants are the most important thing so if the wetting agent improves results than obviously use it.
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
ty J
going to nuke the bastards
how much do i need to run,
this will soak my tent in minutes
i tested it outside, this thing blows like mofo
do i need to make sure a certain amount is applied
or with the ratio mix covers the plant, and I'm good to go?
should i use the whole gallon in other word, or save the rest once covered properly?





:joint::peace:
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
also, im not sure you need the wetting agent, did the man who sold you the floramite suggest that?
he said its like a car wax,
it helps the stuff hang on the leaf, instead of biding right off
you think it best if i don't add that?










:joint::peace:
 

cowboyframer

Well-Known Member
Good luck with the fogger. What I want to know is why no one suggested cranking the co2 up to 10000 ppm for an hour. Nothing that lives on o2 could survive that.
Cowboy
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
once everything is wet your done, you dont have to use the whole gallon.
do make sure the underside of leaves get hit even if you have to do it by hand with a spray bottle.

i honestly dont know about the wetting agent? i guess just go for it?

high levels of co2 wont kill eggs, but may cause damage to the plants/roots if there is not enough oxygen in the room.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
turn down the lights as i said b4 and its okay to use some fans to dry the plants everything quicker, it doesnt need to soak in or anything. just spray/fog and then start the drying process so you can hurry up get your real lights back on (once the plants r mostly dry u can turn your lights back on)
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
a wetting agent is just so the leafs will absorb better

it also is like a protective coating from the waxy coat feel that is left behind.
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
it is all over for the mites!
i trimmed almost all the way up to the FIM
the whole tent went up 100% RH on my Intelliclimate
i had to wipe everything down afterward, this thing is a mother fogger






:joint::peace:
 
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