mollasess
- Thread starter siek13
- Start date
Juan Valdez
Active Member
Blackstrap and behr rabbit are other unsulphered brands of mollases that are suitable.
Peace
Peace
Carl Spackler
Well-Known Member
I'm more than a little skeptical of the claims surrounding the use of molasses. Has anyone ever done a controlled study for the true benefits?
The last thing I want to do is attract unwanted animals and/or pests this close to harvest. Any hard data?
The last thing I want to do is attract unwanted animals and/or pests this close to harvest. Any hard data?
chiefbootknocker
Well-Known Member
Dude I've hit my outdoor plants twice so far with 1 tablespoon of Grandma's and so far I can't really say that it's doing anything plus or minus. I've read some posts that say that when they introduced mollases to their grow they could see benefits the next day (a pretty heavy claim) so that's what attracted me to it. I will probably continue to use it until flush, but if something doesn't happen with flower production from using it I will probably use the rest of it for a homemade BBQ sauce attempt
EDIT: Sorry Juan I ment to quote Carl.
treemansbuds
Well-Known Member
Siek13-
Molasses provides Potassium for your plants and it feeds the "microbeasties" in your soil. The more you got those microbeasties eating, farting, crapping, and reproducing the better off your plants are. Add 1 tblspoon per gallon and give to your plants once a week. You won't see results overnight, but you will see results. I start feeding my plants molasses at the beginning of flowering all the way to the flush. Some even flush with it.
Good for the soil!
Treemansbuds-
Molasses provides Potassium for your plants and it feeds the "microbeasties" in your soil. The more you got those microbeasties eating, farting, crapping, and reproducing the better off your plants are. Add 1 tblspoon per gallon and give to your plants once a week. You won't see results overnight, but you will see results. I start feeding my plants molasses at the beginning of flowering all the way to the flush. Some even flush with it.
Good for the soil!
Treemansbuds-
just once a week?thats it what if i use it more then that?
Carl Spackler
Well-Known Member
So the complete soluble fertilizers (all mineral sources) that I have been feeding my plants with during this and other seasons are inadequate? The microbes are able to break down complex sugars/starches into available nutrients faster or more efficiently than synthetic forms? I would argue that they indeed do not. Coupled with the fact that the dosages can vary wildly, (believe me I have seen some ridiculous suggestions in regard to concentration) I would rather apply products that have a known guaranteed analysis.
I would still like to see some type controlled study with identical, cloned plant material, in the same growing media, lights etc. with a group treated with and without the molasses. If I am wrong then I would be the first to admit it and readily adopt this as part of my grow-program. Anecdotal evidence is highly subjective to criticism and debate. How many people in this forum have included a rotting fish carcass in their root-zone and then wonderered why their carefully propagated-Indica-Afghan-Blueberry-"Brainmelter"- cross is now laying dead on the ground because scavengers smelled a tasty treat below? They also relied on this type of evidence, they learned it in between naps in the 3rd grade when Mrs. Johnson started blathering on about the Indians and them using fish to fertilize the corn they fed the dumbass starving pilgrims. Why did the natives do this? Because they couldn't go to the store, plop down 18 bucks and walk out with a bag of high quality, soluble fertilizer.
Anyway I'm off my little rant (sorry) or as "the clones" on the Jim Rome show say "Now I'm done".
juggaloclownz187
Well-Known Member
You don't put molasses "on" the buds, you feed the plant, and the plant feeds its benefits to the plant...
itsgrowinglikeaweed
Well-Known Member
Soil itself is a living thing. Molasses feeds the SOIL. The soil feeds the plant. Well fed soil usually means a well fed plant. http://www.onlinepot.org/grow/3lbsMolassesManual.htm
The search on the rollitup site is useless. This is what I do to search for info on Rollitup. There are already a shitload of threads about molasses. I mean just a ridiculous amount of totally redundant threads. Becasue people cant find them they have to ask the same Q's over and over.
USE GOOGLE SEARCH. Type a question or subject right into the google search box and simply put the word ROLLITUP at the end. the results will have a bunch of rollitup threads on your subject of choice. you can get the info you want INSTANTLY. without waiting for someone to reply.
Sometimes I feel like im the only person in here that has a google search?
The search on the rollitup site is useless. This is what I do to search for info on Rollitup. There are already a shitload of threads about molasses. I mean just a ridiculous amount of totally redundant threads. Becasue people cant find them they have to ask the same Q's over and over.
USE GOOGLE SEARCH. Type a question or subject right into the google search box and simply put the word ROLLITUP at the end. the results will have a bunch of rollitup threads on your subject of choice. you can get the info you want INSTANTLY. without waiting for someone to reply.
Sometimes I feel like im the only person in here that has a google search?
Carl Spackler
Well-Known Member
Sounds good. Hopefully they are closely related genetically etc. so the results won't be too skewed either way. Thanks
Istaysmoking
Well-Known Member
you clearly need more patience becuase it does not matter how many times its applied, its only useful about once every week.
itsgrowinglikeaweed
Well-Known Member
Even once a week is excessive IMO. More is not always better. Excessive carbohydrates in the soil will lock out nitrogen. I use it once during veg and once or twice during flower. The facts are that most people water too much, and they fertilize too much. This is not my opinion this is FACT. I dont think it would be a stretch to assume that they use too much molasses as well.
Istaysmoking
Well-Known Member
very true, new growers tend to want to be to involved with the plant. And when I said once a week that was talking about during flower other than that I don't use it at all.
Pnuggle
Well-Known Member
i've been using 1 tbsp of molasses per gallon of water, sometimes every watering or every other watering. i started at the end part of vegetative, and have been using all through flowering. My plant's buds look amazing.. but who's to say they wouldn't if i hadn't used molasses? as far as I can see, i see no negative effect..
Istaysmoking
Well-Known Member
I've grown with it and without, however never a controlled study so I cannot say with 100% certainly that it helps. A tsp every water or every other water during flower is all it takes. I've also told friends to try it and all have came back to me and told it it undoubtedly helps. Its not some miracle but from what I've seen, it makes the nute intake easier/effective.
itsgrowinglikeaweed
Well-Known Member
Well there's no question that it helps. That much we know for sure. The link I posted previously can explain it.
Here is an excerpt from The 3LB's Molasses Manual
QUOTE[" Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses
is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there
would be lot’s of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source
of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though,
the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is it’s trace minerals.
In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants,
and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original
sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those
“beneficial beasties” to survive and thrive. That’s one of the secrets we’ve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found
in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants."]QUOTE
The debate seems to be in the amount to apply as well as the application method itself.
I use OhsoGreen's method from the RIU organics form.
QUOTE["Here is how you do it. - by Ohsogreen
First use only unsulphured molasses, like Briar Rabbit or Grandma's Molasses (brands). Mix one ounce to one gallon of chlorine free water. If you only have tap water, let it set for two days & 99% of the chlorine will evaporate. Then you can add the molasses.
.
You can bubble (oxygenate) it using a cheap aquarium pump & air stone for at least one day. Or just pour it from one clean container (jug or bucket) to another a couple of times a day, for at least two days.
.
This provides extra oxygen to the good micro-beaties, they then eat, mutiply, & kill off - the not so nice micro-beaties. The longer you oygenate this mix, the more good guys you end up with. Their eating & pooping out the NPK (bioconversion) is what make it highly soluble. Over time their bioconversion reduces the N and pumps up the P & K slightly. Not a big shift, just a point or two.
.
This makes a good growth stage fertilizer (that's cheap).
.
Just mix it light the first time & water in lightly - like one quart per plant.
Start low & build slow. This prevents overfertilizing.
.
Use this mix one week & plain water the next.
.
You can add nutes to the mix, but remember your adding to a mix with a NPK of about 5-1-3 already"]QUOTE
It helps others if you spell correctly too. That way when someone else searches they can come across all this good info too. As it is, only people who spell molasses like mollasess will find this thread.
Here is an excerpt from The 3LB's Molasses Manual
QUOTE[" Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses
is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there
would be lot’s of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source
of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though,
the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is it’s trace minerals.
In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants,
and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original
sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those
“beneficial beasties” to survive and thrive. That’s one of the secrets we’ve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found
in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants."]QUOTE
The debate seems to be in the amount to apply as well as the application method itself.
I use OhsoGreen's method from the RIU organics form.
QUOTE["Here is how you do it. - by Ohsogreen
First use only unsulphured molasses, like Briar Rabbit or Grandma's Molasses (brands). Mix one ounce to one gallon of chlorine free water. If you only have tap water, let it set for two days & 99% of the chlorine will evaporate. Then you can add the molasses.
.
You can bubble (oxygenate) it using a cheap aquarium pump & air stone for at least one day. Or just pour it from one clean container (jug or bucket) to another a couple of times a day, for at least two days.
.
This provides extra oxygen to the good micro-beaties, they then eat, mutiply, & kill off - the not so nice micro-beaties. The longer you oygenate this mix, the more good guys you end up with. Their eating & pooping out the NPK (bioconversion) is what make it highly soluble. Over time their bioconversion reduces the N and pumps up the P & K slightly. Not a big shift, just a point or two.
.
This makes a good growth stage fertilizer (that's cheap).
.
Just mix it light the first time & water in lightly - like one quart per plant.
Start low & build slow. This prevents overfertilizing.
.
Use this mix one week & plain water the next.
.
You can add nutes to the mix, but remember your adding to a mix with a NPK of about 5-1-3 already"]QUOTE
It helps others if you spell correctly too. That way when someone else searches they can come across all this good info too. As it is, only people who spell molasses like mollasess will find this thread.
superelectro
Member
Is there anything that inhances the taste of canabis, like any type of nuts or anything?