northwoodsmoker
New Member
im using mollasses 2 n i see that my budz are fattening up but dont notice any smell yet from them..
After curing for 2 weeks bud still smells like mollases
- Thread starter 420OldSchoolDJ420
- Start date
Brick Top
New Member
I use Grow Big for the vegetative growth period and both Big Bloom and Tiger Bloom during the flowering growth period and I also add one drop of SuperThrive to every watering/feeding. Like so many others I also use molasses during flowering but mainly only towards the end of flowering .. though for my next run I will use it in both stages of growth.
　
Maybe because I have used it so little I have never experienced any odor from it but I do have to tend to believe that there was something lacking in your drying and curing that did not allow for all the different chemicals in your herb to break down in the best possible way to the fullest degree as is needed for the best possible flavor and highest possible potency.
　
Any deviation from the best possible conditions during drying and curing can result in one or more undesired results and that may be why what you experienced happened.
Yes it is difficult to maintain perfect conditions for both drying and curing. Many do not have the resources to do so and also many will not put out the needed effort to maintain such conditions.
Normally the final results will still be to the grower anywhere from acceptable to more than just acceptable but still they could have had better final results had things been handled better.
　
Not to come off as being insulting but I so have to believe that what you experienced was at least mainly do to some deviation from what is best, or at least close enough to being best to still be totally acceptable, so possibly rather than scrapping a product that does work, molasses, in the future try to pay closer attention to all conditions while drying and curing.
If you do that I think there is a high degree of probability that you will then have much better far more acceptable results.
　
In short I believe you looked for a cause and effect and unintentionally connected the wrong dots resulting in an inaccurate decision as to the cause and effect.
420OldSchoolDJ420
New Member
Oh yea I agree. Im sure I could have did a better job drying.. I hung them in a closet for 6 days and they were dry.. Its hella hard ( dont have a humidifier/dehumedifier etc ) to mantain the "perfect" drying conditions as there is only about a 10 degre ( F ) range to work with and only about a diff of about 20% humidity to stay within the "perfect" scenerio.. oh well.
PeachOibleBoiblePeach#1
Well-Known Member
Idk,,But I'm glad I read this I think I'm going to skip the mollases step this time, Just because I had a few different strains and some of them except the satavia, all seemed to smell the same after curing. I use the full FF line, including micro's so I really don't think I need mollases,,Just need to flush really good. Thanks.
420OldSchoolDJ420
New Member
Cuz ppl are sheep , lol.. ( watch the vid )
[youtube]GA8z7f7a2Pk[/youtube]
-------------------------------------
Or Lemmings..
swishatwista
Well-Known Member
molasses is for carbs for your plants increased need for sugurs, and if you use soil and have micro organisms, the molasses feeds them. You may not need to use molasses if there are carbs in your flowering nutes, but you dont want to over feed. I use molasses, and i would reccomend it to anybody, but like earlier in the thread, you dont want to over do it. Molasses is proven to fatten and sweeten up buds, using properly of course.
As far as the smell goes, i think a longer cure will help the dank smell over come to hay, grass smell.-as with my auto AK's. just gotta be patient.
The slower the drying/curing process, the better, without acculating mold. hope this helps, and remember, gotta have a lil faith
As far as the smell goes, i think a longer cure will help the dank smell over come to hay, grass smell.-as with my auto AK's. just gotta be patient.
The slower the drying/curing process, the better, without acculating mold. hope this helps, and remember, gotta have a lil faith
motaman1013
Member
You don't think you may have harvested a little to early? I don't remember who said that first but I think that may be the case. But I'm no expert..
And Brick Top, Well said!! Thanks for your Knowledge.
And Brick Top, Well said!! Thanks for your Knowledge.
CrackerJax
New Member
Molasses has been used in the fertilizer business long before the weed business. farmers don't use things that don't work...at least not for long. Molasses is still used by BIG AG.
420OldSchoolDJ420
New Member
its a def possibility
But the trichs were all cloudy and they flowered for 10 weeks.
CrackerJax
New Member
What? you want me to research the fine tuning of molasses...... I'll stick with the farmers.
But, yes, there are many ways to get a good grow. Molasses isn't required.
But, yes, there are many ways to get a good grow. Molasses isn't required.
Brick Top
New Member
“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates”
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic
production
Printed by permission of Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., www.txplant-soillab.com
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]
The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.
Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars
and photosynthates are formed.
Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is
essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the
sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.
Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil
moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit
formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.
Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate produc-
tion, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.
ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
-
MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table
sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides
found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most
effective.
* In the soil it can:
- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly
feed the roots for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.
Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the
induced fruit can mature.
http://www.pnwgpg.com/homepage_000014.htm
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic
production
Printed by permission of Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., www.txplant-soillab.com
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]
The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.
Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars
and photosynthates are formed.
Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is
essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the
sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.
Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil
moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit
formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.
Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate produc-
tion, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.
ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
-
MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table
sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides
found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most
effective.
* In the soil it can:
- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly
feed the roots for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.
Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the
induced fruit can mature.
http://www.pnwgpg.com/homepage_000014.htm
CrackerJax
New Member
You call that proof? 
TY BrickTop...
TY BrickTop...
Brick Top
New Member
You call that proof?
You are more than welcome . believe me it was my pleasure.
Leothwyn
Well-Known Member
There sure is a lot of misinformation around about molasses. Thanks for posting that Brick.
If you're bud smells like molasses, it's either a coincidence or you got it on your buds. The plants don't suck it up and suddenly taste like molasses - just like they don't taste like bat guano or worm castings. They break that stuff down before they use it.
The main benefit of molasses is a healthy microbe population in the soil. Healthy microbes>healthy roots>healthy plants. Good for veg too.
If you're bud smells like molasses, it's either a coincidence or you got it on your buds. The plants don't suck it up and suddenly taste like molasses - just like they don't taste like bat guano or worm castings. They break that stuff down before they use it.
The main benefit of molasses is a healthy microbe population in the soil. Healthy microbes>healthy roots>healthy plants. Good for veg too.
420OldSchoolDJ420
New Member
lol like I said it could just be my imagination ( which is quite good believe me ) that the molasses caused it, and it could very well be that it just smells like it for some other reason(s).. I have no clue.. Its just my third grow.