Please help with ALGAE!!!

Geneticfreak

Geneticfreak

Active Member
Went to do my weekly resi clean and noticed that I have brown slimey algae all over my air stone and the bottom of res. I have read up on the reason this is happening and have come to the conclusion that its my lumens. Now my question is this. How do I keep the light from hitting my water? My water comes about an inch from the top of my 4x4 rockwool cubes and my hydroton floats when I flood. Is my water coming up to high? Or do I need to cover everything with plastic? Please help a struggling rookie!
 
Roseman

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
The pics explain themselves. I fear the LIGHT shining through my hydroton rocks into my tank, and on my rocks and growing algae. The styrafoam is sturdy, strong, will last a long time, reflects light and cleans easily too.
Attached Thumbnails
 
Roseman

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
HOW DO I DEAL WITH ALGAE BUILD UP IN MY HYDROPONIC SYSTEM?
Answer: The best method is prevention. If you keep the solution away from light, i.e. keep the lids closed and all openings sealed, and sue cup covers, you can prevent algae from growing. ALGAE HAS TO HAVE LIGHT, TO GROW.
If you already have algae in the system you can remove it with a SCRUB-brush, or use hydrogen peroxide (3ml or two teaspoons of 3% H2O2 per gallon of solution) to remove it. If there are particles floating in the nutrient solution, be sure to flush the reservoir and growing chamber with ample water, and then start with a new batch of nutrient and pH balanced water. If the problem is severe, make sure you have the algae completely flushed out to avoid the risk of clogging some of the flow lines in the system.
After you use the peroxide, refill the tank with clean water and DRAIN AND REPLINISH AGAIN to rinse it good.
Some info says peroxide will not help or work, and will kill the plants like it kills the algae. Use common sense and don't flood the plants with peroxide, and rinse the tank throughly.


All hydroponic growers know what algae looks like - it is often green, but can be brown, reddish or black, it clings to channels, gullies or pumps or oozes over the top of damp media. Algae often has an 'earthy' or 'mouldy' smell, is slimey, or gooey, particularly when large numbers are decomposing in the nutrient. It has the ability to block drippers, emitters, pumps, return channels, and heavy infestations can actually 'seal' off the surface of the media or substrate. It can ruin a pump or stop up a feeder tube in DRIP or BUBBLEPONICS SYSTEMS.

The problem with algae, apart from the appearance and smell problems it creates, is not so much that it uses up nutrients from the solution, but as it blooms, dies and decomposes, it removes dissolved oxygen from the hydroponic system. This increases the biological oxygen demand (BOD) on the system and the plant's roots may suffocate from a lack of O2. Decomposing algae may also release toxins as it breaks down and provides a food source for plant pathogenic fungi which may then multiply to high levels in the system. Algae on plant root systems can suffocate the roots, making the plants prone to attack by opportunist pathogens such as Pythium.
Algae, is a form of plant life, it is a natural consequence of exposing water with nutrients dissolved in it to a light source. Where there is no light, algae can not grow, so the most obvious solution to preventing algae growth is to stop light from reaching the nutrient solution where ever possible. Cups should have light proof covers, return gullies also need covers, large media beds can also be covered with either plastic film or a layer of substrate which is designed to act as a 'dry mulch' since algae can not grow on dry surfaces. In aeroponic systems, the root chamber must be light proof and media based pot or container systems can have plastic or rigid collars made which cover the surface of the media.
Control of algae, once in a hydroponic system can be difficult - some DWC growers tolerate small amounts of algae in the system, provided it does not become excessive and this usually causes no problems. Where algae growth has become thick and widespread, often the best option is to clean up the whole system after crop removal and start again with a clean system.
Some growers add algicide products into the nutrient to kill off algae and there are a number of these products on the market. However, since any product which kills algae, a form of plant life, can also damage young or sensitive root systems, care must be taken with the dose and damage has been known to occur. Algae will also regrow, very quickly after applications of most algaecide products, requiring more and more of the chemical to get good control. In a study carried out in Belgium on Algae control in hydroponic systems, it was found that many of the products tested for control of algae in nutrient solutions (Diazinon, Endosulfan, Propiconazole, Thiram, Ziram, Quinomanid, Hygrozyme, Irgarol-1051, SM-90, ) were either totally ineffective in killing algae, or killed off much of the algae but were also very phytotoxic to the plants and causes considerable root damage. Plus the play havoc witht eh pH. It was also found that dose levels of 50ppm of hydrogen peroxide was requited to control algae, but that this dose was too phytotoxic for young plants, although older plants survived this dose rate. Therefore, careful and selective use of H2O2 could be used on older, more resistant plants, but since H2O2 is a 'biocide' rather than an 'algicide' there is always a risk of root damage.
Other studies have found 'organic' algae control methods such as adding certain 'grapefruit seed extracts' to the nutrient will kill algae without harming the plants - this is a method used in drinking water, fish ponds, lakes etc and appears to work well. There could be the potential, in larger hydroponic tanks to use 'Barley straw rafts' as a means of algae control as has been proven to work in ponds, lakes and other water ways.
However the best method of algae control will still always be prevention of the problem, so excluding light should be the main emphasis in systems with algae problems.


Let's look at what Ed Rosenthal says about peroxide.

I found this article very interesting. It was written by Ed Rosenthal. I see a lot of mis-information about peroxide, and debate too, so I wanted to show you what he says.

by Ed Rosenthal.
How much hydrogen peroxide should be used?


When and how much hydrogen peroxide should I use in my hydroponic solution?

Hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer that can be used to destroy fungi, molds, bacteria and other infectious agents as well as some pollutants. Adding it to your water helps plants by destroying infectious agents and by adding oxygen to the roots' environment.
Hydrogen peroxide is an essential ingredient in maintaining a clean growing room. It replaces chlorine bleach, which is antiseptic but harmful to breathe. When added to reservoirs, hydrogen peroxide slows the growth of algae and other water organisms so that trays and utensils need to be cleaned less frequently. Soil and water borne diseases such as pythium and other stem and root rots occur at much lower rates in hydrogen peroxide-enriched water. Hydrogen peroxide works because of the oxidative reaction, so micro-organisms are unlikely to develop a tolerance.
There are many ways to add hydrogen peroxide to the water. A measured amount every three days is the crudest method, but still effectively enriches the water. A smaller measured amount daily would even out the peaks and valleys of oxygen in the water. Another method is to use a drip similar to an IV bag, which continuously adds a regulated amount. The most sophisticated method is a probe which measures the oxygen content of the water as an indirect means of measuring the hydrogen peroxide, and adds an appropriate amount as needed.
When used properly, hydrogen peroxide can keep infections in the garden to a minimum and stimulate root growth by increasing the oxygen content of the water. Hydrogen peroxide degrades into free oxygen and water over a three-day period. Some of the oxygen dissolves in the reservoir water and is used by the roots.
Different concentrations of hydrogen peroxide solution are available. It is sold diluted to 3% in drug stores. Some indoor garden shops sell 10% grade and 35% grade is sold in a few health food stores and over the Internet. The 3% hydrogen peroxide solution can be used topically to sterilize cuts and infections. Hydrogen peroxide solution at 10% burns skin. 35% hydrogen peroxide solution acts much like a concentrated acid and is handled as a hazardous, corrosive liquid.
The 10% hydrogen peroxide solution is sometimes used at rates as low as one ounce per 10 gallons water; however, enrichment using an ounce per gallon is more effective for disease control. When 35% hydrogen peroxide solution is used, it can be added at the rate of three ounces per 10 gallons of water. If a 3% solution is used, use three ounces per gallon of water as a cure.
 
spike1499

spike1499

Well-Known Member
hi roseman love reading posts so full of good info for newbie or otherwise keepup the good work.

any way sorry and to the point brown algae look up physon 20 this stuff is good . no need to strip and clean just make a full solution change with physon and run it in your system with the plants. this will clean the system and the roots at the same time replace the solution sort out the the light to your res or temps which ever is your evil.
then carry on as normal.
dilute into a spray and you clean your hole grow room with it inbetween grows .
check it out its good stuff.

growem green ----------spike.
 
Geneticfreak

Geneticfreak

Active Member
Thanks for all the help! I will look up physon 20 and pond dye. For now I ran 35% 2ml per gallon for an hour then mixed nutes. In hopes that I can slow any growth down for the time being.
 
Geneticfreak

Geneticfreak

Active Member
But if we googled everything what would we need this place for? Questions like mine are what we are all here for. Thanks
 
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