*** Ask Dr. VonDankenstine ***

gotagetit

Member
I can't afford a grow box, but i was thinking bout making my own by gluing me a box together and cuting a hold in the top to stick a 100wtt light bulb in it, and cutting a hold in the back for ventilation and i was going to paint, or lace the inside with a white sheet....NEW COMER ALL DAY AND FIRST TIME FOR EVERYTHING....{HELP].
 

zechbro

Well-Known Member
hey doc
ive got and idea, im pretty lazy when it comes to growing, partly cos im not home half the time, im stayng at the mrs... but any way... so i did hempy last grow, went ok, but there was a lot of times that i didnt check them for a week or so and the nearly died.. ok it pretty much happened every week... but what im thinking of doing is having 2 hempy buckets side by side, flowering 4 weeks apart with scrog, and hooking up a pump feeding system, then i can set a timer and feed twice a week, with low nutes, and then once a week i can just top u the res and also give them a bigger feed, what do you reckon?
 

JimmyT

Well-Known Member
Dr. Vondankenstine:

My question is about phenotypes. I've done quite a bit of reading over this subject and horticulture in general but, I'm tired of reading the same thing over and over again. So, I thought I'd get someone's fresh perspective.

This is my first time growing anything and I'm 5 weeks into flowering White Russians which I'm sure you'll know is a cross of WW and AK47. I got 2 females out of the 6 that I originally sprouted and, after cloning those females, I'm noticing that my garden has 2 groups of flowers with subtle differences.

They both smell very similar (as I guess I should expect :dunce: considering they're sisters and of the same strain) but their bud formation is slightly different. The first type has less pistils shooting out, twice the trichomes, the mass of calyx are more exposed, and the buds just look more compact in comparison to the second type.

Finally, my question! Can I assume at this stage in the game that I've got 2 different phenotypes, one representing more of Widow and the other representing more of AK47? Too soon to say?

Thank you very much :leaf:
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
res temps are ok and your spot on if i could keep them cool id grow at 90deg the shit goes insane in my grow at 90deg c02 1800ppm my farms are linked 24 total going for 4 per res &cont. plants use about 3/4gal per day in bloom . but the water in them is gravity feed and non recerculating so chiller wouldnt be very doable i ran 90deg day and 60deg nite real fun but way too fast and strechy for a first timmer noob like me. i have many issuse and so does our garden will provide details if your willing to adopt a special ed student. i have (I.D.A.D.) i do alota dopititis
I will help in any way I can--you can shoot me the details in a PM. note: I've ran the water farms with gravity feed containers---You can link the 6 containers together in a series then run a line from the last container to a chiller (IN). then the chiller (OUT) goes to your first container. The pump is in the last container connected to the chiller(IN) line. The pump and chiller are set to run opposite your controller. that's one idea...

I can't afford a grow box, but i was thinking bout making my own by gluing me a box together and cuting a hold in the top to stick a 100wtt light bulb in it, and cutting a hold in the back for ventilation and i was going to paint, or lace the inside with a white sheet....NEW COMER ALL DAY AND FIRST TIME FOR EVERYTHING....{HELP].
Build it but replace the lace sheet with some black and white panda film(paint has fumes)-use a 100watt cfl. Put a small fan in there as well to move air around.

hey doc
ive got and idea, im pretty lazy when it comes to growing, partly cos im not home half the time, im stayng at the mrs... but any way... so i did hempy last grow, went ok, but there was a lot of times that i didnt check them for a week or so and the nearly died.. ok it pretty much happened every week... but what im thinking of doing is having 2 hempy buckets side by side, flowering 4 weeks apart with scrog, and hooking up a pump feeding system, then i can set a timer and feed twice a week, with low nutes, and then once a week i can just top u the res and also give them a bigger feed, what do you reckon?
sounds like you already have your ideas in place(you don't need me:mrgreen:) but a faster fix that would allow you less maintenance is to raise you holes in the buckets 1/2" to 2"---this would allow more rez and more time in-between feeds...

Dr. Vondankenstine:

My question is about phenotypes. I've done quite a bit of reading over this subject and horticulture in general but, I'm tired of reading the same thing over and over again. So, I thought I'd get someone's fresh perspective.

This is my first time growing anything and I'm 5 weeks into flowering White Russians which I'm sure you'll know is a cross of WW and AK47. I got 2 females out of the 6 that I originally sprouted and, after cloning those females, I'm noticing that my garden has 2 groups of flowers with subtle differences.

They both smell very similar (as I guess I should expect :dunce: considering they're sisters and of the same strain) but their bud formation is slightly different. The first type has less pistils shooting out, twice the trichomes, the mass of calyx are more exposed, and the buds just look more compact in comparison to the second type.

Finally, my question! Can I assume at this stage in the game that I've got 2 different phenotypes, one representing more of Widow and the other representing more of AK47? Too soon to say?

Thank you very much :leaf:
First lets iron out some important details----1. As long as you have authentic White Russian and the breeder used stabilized WW and AK-47. Then we can move to the next step. 2. Did you label the 2 fems and all clones taken from them?
 

JimmyT

Well-Known Member
First lets iron out some important details----1. As long as you have authentic White Russian and the breeder used stabilized WW and AK-47. Then we can move to the next step. 2. Did you label the 2 fems and all clones taken from them?
1. The original adhesive tape is clear but it ripped off (an error of mine) so I put the not-so-clear one over it as you can see. Also, I kept the seed shells. :mrgreen:

2. I know exactly where they are. I've been anticipating some slight differences but didn't think it'd be so apparent and so soon. :leaf:
 

Attachments

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
Since the cross should be WW(fem) x AK-47(male)--you will be able to define the dominate and recessive traits over your population of clones. Which pheno is the majority that you previously described in your clone population?
 

JimmyT

Well-Known Member
The first one would be the one I described in the earlier post. Clearly there's more resin in the first pic. Am I just getting a bit too excited or is there an inherent difference between these two buds just from looking at the pics. All the clones from one plant that are now flowering look different from the other ones. :leaf:
 

Attachments

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
As you first stated I can see a structural difference between 1 and 2(pistils are shorter and less abundant in 1 than 2. Node spacing is closer in 2 as well) If all you had to compare where the 2 in the pics then I wouldn't jump the gun yet because their can be slight growth differences related to plant root development(some clones are healthier than others). The reason I asked about the clones was that if you were working with a group of them at least 10 but say 20/30/40-and you started to see 2 individual pheno's showing and a majority of the group was showing as say your number 2 traits(larger pistils---more resin) then you could start to assume that since WW has these stabilized traits ---The WW is dominant for those traits over the AK-47. This is where your isolation of traits would begin. If the above is true then you now now a couple of things----1. you have 2 phenos from the WR. 2. If the traits you love show up as a majority in your clone population then its safe to assume that they came from the dominate strain in the cross for those specific traits. 3. the same applies to the recessive traits.
 

JimmyT

Well-Known Member
As you first stated I can see a structural difference between 1 and 2(pistils are shorter and less abundant in 1 than 2. Node spacing is closer in 2 as well) If all you had to compare where the 2 in the pics then I wouldn't jump the gun yet because their can be slight growth differences related to plant root development(some clones are healthier than others). The reason I asked about the clones was that if you were working with a group of them at least 10 but say 20/30/40-and you started to see 2 individual pheno's showing and a majority of the group was showing as say your number 2 traits(larger pistils---more resin) then you could start to assume that since WW has these stabilized traits ---The WW is dominant for those traits over the AK-47. This is where your isolation of traits would begin. If the above is true then you now now a couple of things----1. you have 2 phenos from the WR. 2. If the traits you love show up as a majority in your clone population then its safe to assume that they came from the dominate strain in the cross for those specific traits. 3. the same applies to the recessive traits.
Like a warm blanket :clap: Thanks Doc!

I'm quite sure at this point that I've got 2 phenos simply because the 4 clones from one mother all look similar to pic 1 and the other 12 clones (long story) from the other mother look similar to pic 2.

Does this mean I should treat them as such and harvest one pheno sooner than the other given their respective indica/sativa dominance? Do I harvest the AK pheno (if that even makes sense?) when the trichomes are turning milky and wait for the WW pheno's (if that makes sense) trichomes to turn amber? Wait, have I run out of my allotted questions? :leaf:
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
LOL----yes-----no-----yes----------yes----sometimes--------red-------!!!-------LOL...

The harvest will have to be your call but I like to harvest when 1/2 milky---1/2amber but that's pure personal opinion. If you like heady stash then pull sooner---If you like a more body from your meds then pull later. If you have enough time and a few clones pull at different days and see what you like best. sounds like you plan on working with the WR for a while so try a few things out. If you find you like specific traits about both then I can help you bring that together if you need. I always have time to help!!!(but I'm not always able to answer right away). Note:----When you step into my gardens in the last days of harvest its a sea of yellow-----I'm a Hugh believer in getting all the nitrogen out of the plants. I run tons of extra air-circulation and flush----flush---flush)---buds give off the smell of sweet incense and taste of candy!!!
 

Mulltie

Well-Known Member
Hello Dr.
I would just like to ask you is it possible to keep a plant in vegitation for 4 to five months?
if so what wud be the nessisary steps to prevent it going into flowering?:mrgreen:
 

lonleysmoka

Active Member
Hey there Dr. Vondank I have a post from a thread of mine what do you think of it so far???

So today was the first day I have seen the girls in a little over a week. I never new there could be such a big difference in that amount of time...As you will be able to see from the pictures there is a real problem among them.... :-/ Well guys the thing that was different from the previous update till now was the start of a flush. (a big sigh ahhhhhh) Plants were not getting feed much at all since the first feeding with the BMO which was about 2 weeks ago. I think the plants were starting to show signs before this all happened and now since most nutrients were out of the mix plants starved..... :-/ Well some good news is that the spirdermites seem to be just about gone finally. Plants have grown a little
SS#1- went from 9.25--->11.5
SS#2 11.5---->13.25
SS#3 7.25--->8.75
SS#4 10.5--->11.5
Mendo 15--->17
Bag Seed 12.5--->14.5

SS were transplanted today into their final pot which is a 6gal pot. They were given a little bit of food aswell since they were starved over the last 10days and even before that. I found out that the plants were not getting much food for the size of pots and age of plants. Looks like Bagseed is really lacking nitrogen and I think mendo is starting to show signs of yellowing bottom fan leaves.


Todays feeding consisted of 4tsp GIG, 2tsp STP, 3tsp FH, 1tsp Bio-grow. The ppm level was 668 for the gal of water that this was in. That was for the SS. The bagseed and mendo got 1/2 strength Flora Nova and each got 1/2gal of water.

The light will be 11" above the canopy temps seem to be good they have been from 70-74 most of the day. RH has been about 50-60%
Soil pH is low right now working on bringing it up to around 6. My guess is that it has been low for maybe 2 weeks now. It has been 5-6.0 I am working on slowly raising it to around 6-6.3
pictures:
1) SS#1

2) SS#2

3) SS#3
4) SS#4

5) Bag seed

6) 4 SS

Attached Thumbnails



The whole thread is down in my sig if you wanna check it out.... thanks for your time

 

brown83

Member
Easy..

I have a couple of quick questions for you..

1)What is the LOWEST possible temperature that plants will grow in as I have a poorly insulated loft space? (Temp. roughly 40-45 degrees)..I must add that I have a secret jardin dr60 tent that I will be using for my grow..

2)What would be a quick,safe and efficient way of heating? (Apart from the obvious of re-insulating at the minute because of a tight budget unfortunately..)

3)How good are Plug And Grow 250w red flowering bulbs at producing bud?..Do they perform well and do you harvest decent,smokable bud using them or should I upgrade to a low wattage HPS setup for flowering?..Again,I am only contemplating between these due to a budget..

Cheers..

Your feedback,help or advice would MUCH appreciated..

** Temperature is 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit** Sorry for not saying before..
 

stumps

Well-Known Member
Hello Dr.
I would just like to ask you is it possible to keep a plant in vegitation for 4 to five months?
if so what wud be the nessisary steps to prevent it going into flowering?:mrgreen:
/so long as you don't go to 12/12 lighting your plant will stay in veg.
 

gottagrow69

Well-Known Member
DOC i soil a very light amount of white mold in the bottle of my containers were the water releases and also starting on the top. Im usin old soil i had stored in my cabinet my babies are only 4 days old and i dont want to lose them PLEASE help? should i or can i transplant them into my 3 gallon buckets or is it to early?
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
Hello Dr.
I would just like to ask you is it possible to keep a plant in vegitation for 4 to five months?
if so what wud be the nessisary steps to prevent it going into flowering?:mrgreen:
Yes, I have a mother now that is 2 years old.---as long as the lower part of the plant doesn't have too much shading--you'll be fine.
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
Hey there Dr. Vondank I have a post from a thread of mine what do you think of it so far???

So today was the first day I have seen the girls in a little over a week. I never new there could be such a big difference in that amount of time...As you will be able to see from the pictures there is a real problem among them.... :-/ Well guys the thing that was different from the previous update till now was the start of a flush. (a big sigh ahhhhhh) Plants were not getting feed much at all since the first feeding with the BMO which was about 2 weeks ago. I think the plants were starting to show signs before this all happened and now since most nutrients were out of the mix plants starved..... :-/ Well some good news is that the spirdermites seem to be just about gone finally. Plants have grown a little
SS#1- went from 9.25--->11.5
SS#2 11.5---->13.25
SS#3 7.25--->8.75
SS#4 10.5--->11.5
Mendo 15--->17
Bag Seed 12.5--->14.5

SS were transplanted today into their final pot which is a 6gal pot. They were given a little bit of food aswell since they were starved over the last 10days and even before that. I found out that the plants were not getting much food for the size of pots and age of plants. Looks like Bagseed is really lacking nitrogen and I think mendo is starting to show signs of yellowing bottom fan leaves.


Todays feeding consisted of 4tsp GIG, 2tsp STP, 3tsp FH, 1tsp Bio-grow. The ppm level was 668 for the gal of water that this was in. That was for the SS. The bagseed and mendo got 1/2 strength Flora Nova and each got 1/2gal of water.

The light will be 11" above the canopy temps seem to be good they have been from 70-74 most of the day. RH has been about 50-60%
Soil pH is low right now working on bringing it up to around 6. My guess is that it has been low for maybe 2 weeks now. It has been 5-6.0 I am working on slowly raising it to around 6-6.3
pictures:
1) SS#1

2) SS#2

3) SS#3
4) SS#4

5) Bag seed

6) 4 SS
Attached Thumbnails



The whole thread is down in my sig if you wanna check it out.... thanks for your time

did you get your ppm's up?
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
DOC i soil a very light amount of white mold in the bottle of my containers were the water releases and also starting on the top. Im usin old soil i had stored in my cabinet my babies are only 4 days old and i dont want to lose them PLEASE help? should i or can i transplant them into my 3 gallon buckets or is it to early?
You could transplant them but it will take about 3 days to a week for the growth to start back up. Is the mold on the top of the soil??? If it is then its very unlikely not powdery mildew and it can be treated very effectively with a 1tbs baking soda/quart of water and spray the infected area till saturated--do this 3 consecutive times at 2 day intervals and get ample air circulation in and around your plants----you'll be fine!!!...
 
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