drabstab
Active Member
Just needed to start my nutrients B-)
The BubbleHead Gang
- Thread starter Roseman
- Start date
Thanks Crazy, I did it last yesterday and i used rockwool and cut it down the middle the roots were just sticking out a 1/2 inch or so they only had 1 set of leaves so i thought i would be ok. Now its morning and they look ok so now just waiting for a couple days to add nutes.
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
HEY GUYS WHATS UP? SINCE I DECIDED TO GO D.W.C. AFTER READING IN LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS OF OUR THREADS FOR INFO AND STARTING ASS SOON AS I DID I WILL DO A FEW THINGS DIFFERENT AFTER THIS HARVEST THANKS TO ALL THE STUFF FROM YOU GUYS HERES A COUPLE OF PICS EVERYONE SHOULD CHECK OUT THE THREAD THOUGH GIVE ME YOUR COMMENTS CAUSE IM THINKING OF TAKING YOU UP ON THE OFFER OF BECOMING A BUBBLEHEAD
THE FIRST PIC WAS JUST A SPEC COMPAIRED TO WHAT WAS COMING
THE 2ND PIC WAS LOOKING TO FILL OUT A ROOM WITH A SYSTEM I WAS STARTING TO LOVE AS FAST AS IT COULD GROW ROOTS
THE 3RD IS 7 DAYS FROM THE 2ND PIC. WHEN I SEEN THE GROWTH COMPAIRED TO MY SOIL I NEW I WOULD NEVER TURN BACK
THE 4TH PIC IS ONLY 6 DAYS LATER AND YOU SHOULD SEE IT NOW ITS BEEN 17 DAYS SINCE THE 4TH PIC
THE 5TH PIC IS THE HUMBOLDT NUTE PROGRAM I USE ALONG WITH BOTANICARE SWEET GRAPE,SUPERTHRIVE,AND AWESOME BLOSSOM! AND A COUPLE OTHER THINGS FOR FOLLIAR SPRAYS
CHECK THE JOURNAL TO SEE THE MOST INSANE BUSHES EVER!!!
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/254308-12-12-50-60-day.html
THANKS GUYS FOR CONVINCING ME TO GO DWC AND FOR ALL THE HELP PLEASE CHECK THE JOURNAL TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK I WANT TO PUT THE BUBBLE HEAD LOGO IN THE SIG SO SEE YOU GUYS THERE. SEE WHAT A 17 DAY DIFFERENCE DOES!!!
THE FIRST PIC WAS JUST A SPEC COMPAIRED TO WHAT WAS COMING
THE 2ND PIC WAS LOOKING TO FILL OUT A ROOM WITH A SYSTEM I WAS STARTING TO LOVE AS FAST AS IT COULD GROW ROOTS
THE 3RD IS 7 DAYS FROM THE 2ND PIC. WHEN I SEEN THE GROWTH COMPAIRED TO MY SOIL I NEW I WOULD NEVER TURN BACK
THE 4TH PIC IS ONLY 6 DAYS LATER AND YOU SHOULD SEE IT NOW ITS BEEN 17 DAYS SINCE THE 4TH PIC
THE 5TH PIC IS THE HUMBOLDT NUTE PROGRAM I USE ALONG WITH BOTANICARE SWEET GRAPE,SUPERTHRIVE,AND AWESOME BLOSSOM! AND A COUPLE OTHER THINGS FOR FOLLIAR SPRAYS
CHECK THE JOURNAL TO SEE THE MOST INSANE BUSHES EVER!!!
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/254308-12-12-50-60-day.html
THANKS GUYS FOR CONVINCING ME TO GO DWC AND FOR ALL THE HELP PLEASE CHECK THE JOURNAL TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK I WANT TO PUT THE BUBBLE HEAD LOGO IN THE SIG SO SEE YOU GUYS THERE. SEE WHAT A 17 DAY DIFFERENCE DOES!!!
Attachments
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
sorry about all caps didnt even see it till it posted was yelling at you guys lol.
LonghornFan
Well-Known Member
Great job Gro, the rewards are worth it...
Dystopia
Active Member
I love it!HEY GUYS WHATS UP? SINCE I DECIDED TO GO D.W.C. AFTER READING IN LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS OF OUR THREADS FOR INFO AND STARTING ASS SOON AS I DID I WILL DO A FEW THINGS DIFFERENT AFTER THIS HARVEST THANKS TO ALL THE STUFF FROM YOU GUYS HERES A COUPLE OF PICS EVERYONE SHOULD CHECK OUT THE THREAD THOUGH GIVE ME YOUR COMMENTS CAUSE IM THINKING OF TAKING YOU UP ON THE OFFER OF BECOMING A BUBBLEHEAD
THE FIRST PIC WAS JUST A SPEC COMPAIRED TO WHAT WAS COMING
THE 2ND PIC WAS LOOKING TO FILL OUT A ROOM WITH A SYSTEM I WAS STARTING TO LOVE AS FAST AS IT COULD GROW ROOTS
THE 3RD IS 7 DAYS FROM THE 2ND PIC. WHEN I SEEN THE GROWTH COMPAIRED TO MY SOIL I NEW I WOULD NEVER TURN BACK
THE 4TH PIC IS ONLY 6 DAYS LATER AND YOU SHOULD SEE IT NOW ITS BEEN 17 DAYS SINCE THE 4TH PIC
THE 5TH PIC IS THE HUMBOLDT NUTE PROGRAM I USE ALONG WITH BOTANICARE SWEET GRAPE,SUPERTHRIVE,AND AWESOME BLOSSOM! AND A COUPLE OTHER THINGS FOR FOLLIAR SPRAYS
CHECK THE JOURNAL TO SEE THE MOST INSANE BUSHES EVER!!!
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/254308-12-12-50-60-day.html
THANKS GUYS FOR CONVINCING ME TO GO DWC AND FOR ALL THE HELP PLEASE CHECK THE JOURNAL TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK I WANT TO PUT THE BUBBLE HEAD LOGO IN THE SIG SO SEE YOU GUYS THERE. SEE WHAT A 17 DAY DIFFERENCE DOES!!!
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
Whacking the MALES
Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics Tutorial - Marijuana Growing < in a tank and in a 5 gallon bucket
Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics Tutorial - Marijuana Growing < in a tank and in a 5 gallon bucket
hHi everyone i need some help please. I am on 8th day and my leaves are wilting, I checked the ph and its 5.6 but the temp in the room is 84 and the water is warm to any suggestions would be appreciated. I also raised up the light to help cool everthing down a bit.
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
Lets discuss Temperatures and Humidity
The temperature is the hardest factor to take control of to me. When confined to a small space, HID ballasts and any lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. That is why I use CFLS, to avoid venting heat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (LIGHTS OFF period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month. Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer.
(Digital $6.95 at Walmart)
This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift too far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in Afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plants enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15F from that of the daytime temperature.
There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmartm Aquarium Departments
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can not be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plants root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.
HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.
Have you ever seen how an outdoor plant loves a rain shower? In Vegging, I mist them daily. I mist with plain distilled water and i mist with a foilage spray too. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.
Cheap Cool Mist Humidifiers from Walmart:
;)
$26.00 ;)
Ultrasonic Humidifier With Light
$28.97
;)
Graco, Cool Mist Humidifier, 1.5 Gallon $29.96
During Flowering, we need a low humidity, especially to avoid Bud mold and bud rot.
Cheap De-Humidifier for closets and tents
$40 at amazon.com
__________________
Another way to raise the humidity is simply place saucers of water all around the grow area. I hand soaking wet towels from coat hangers in my closet to raise humidity. You can also take a large roll of newpaper, and stick the roll in a large quart jar of water, and the wet newspaper acts like a wick, spreading humidity as your fan blows across it.
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
ICE in the Reservoir is a very dangerous medicine to use to get temps down, and should only be done as a last resort and done as a temporary fix.
If the water is 80- 85, they are cooked and dying.
If you are using HID lights, or lights other than CFLs, you must also vent the heat out, or give it up.
And
OSCILATING FANS
An oscilating fan is a necessity to me, in growing.
First it cools the area. Consider in nature, outdoors, plants get breezes and strong winds blown on them, for a reason.
Second, you know how to strenghten a muscle, or make it larger, or stronger or grow faster? You exercise it, you MOVE it.
To strenghten a plants stem, stalk or branch, or make it larger, or stronger or grow faster, you MOVE it too, with an oscilating FAN blowing on it.
Fans help with Temps, Humidity Control, Moisture Control, etc.
Air movement is very necessary for the health of your plants, but too strong of a fan can cause wind burn. Direct your fan toward the tops of the plants and toward the lights. Never position the fan blowing strongly downward on the leaves or you can get wind burn.
To get the temp down and the humidity up, try these:
You need a fan pulling heat out and a fan pulling cool air in.
You have to have an oscilating fan on the plants.
Lay wet rolled up like a cigar wash rags everywhere.
Hang a soaking wet bath towel on a cloths hanger and let it drip into a pan or bucket.
Put a frozen milk jug of water in front of a fan or let it drip into something by putting a pin hole in it.
Get a bucket, put ice in it or frozen water and blow a fan into the bucket, blowing cool air everywhere. And you can put Pine Sol or ONA in the bucket for Odor Control.
Put saucers and cups of water everywhere.
Mist the plants with plain pH water.
Put Frozen cups of water on the lids and everywhere around the plants.
Insulate the reservoir with wet towels or blankets.
Cover the lid with something wet.
Put the air pumps where the Lights do not shine on them or heat them.
Raise the tank up a couple inches and blow a fan under it, or put ice bags under it or around it.
Listen to Mostly Crazy!
MostlyCrazy
New Member
And for you high tech guys this may be an option. Tape is used to shield engine parts and wiring and should insulate the res but is expensive.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/THERMO-TEC-14002-THERMO-SHIELD-HEAT-TAPE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem53d978d7d6QQitemZ360130861014QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/THERMO-TEC-14002-THERMO-SHIELD-HEAT-TAPE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem53d978d7d6QQitemZ360130861014QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
MostlyCrazy
New Member
Yeas, think I'm going to try it for a summer grow for sure. Doesn't look like I'll have a heat problem this time. Res temps are around 70 with an ambient of 72-73. Have I told you how much I like winter grows! Haven't turned on the big lights but haven't needed to get max air moving in there yet either. LOL! Chasing humidity a little with a wet tea shirt and some towel and will probably get a humidifier soon when they get a little bigger. Normal humidity is arounfd 45% but the t-shirts and towel get me to around 62 at plant level.
ROBBIE313
Well-Known Member
damn,im dying to get my clones,i have my room all set up finally,they'll be ready to go in 3 weeks or so,i feel left out,lol.its like going to show&tell with nothing,is it hard to grow different strains in a single bubbleponics system,any bubblheads had any issues ? ill be growing 3 diffrent strains in 2 bubbleponics systems,under floro's for vegg an 400hps for flowering 6x3 room covered in mylar.thx fellas
MostlyCrazy
New Member
Weelcome to the bubbleheads, Robbie313! Diferent strains can sometime be difficult do to different flower lenth times, plant height and dif nute requirement for optimum growth. What you gonna grow. Maybe the difs can be adjusted for!
S, Yes I am lucky in more ways than I know. Air movement knock down humidity if it's not blowing over something wet.
S, Yes I am lucky in more ways than I know. Air movement knock down humidity if it's not blowing over something wet.
drabstab
Active Member
Buh. I moved my temp/hum meter to my little grow box today. 92 degrees F, 35% humidity. What the hell am I gonna do. I put five ice cubes in my res today when the temperature IN THE RES was 90 (scary), and managed to lower it by twelve degrees over the course of eight hours, but the room temp/humidity is still horrible. I'll have to improve air circulation or do something tomorrow. The temp in the res was a constant 70 when they weren't in the box, no ice or anything. Plus I did a res change yesterday, and it's already smelling weird. And my roots were fresh white yesterday, now they're browning up a little bit. Not much, but I still notice. This is harder than I thought. Could my roots be browning a little bit because I upped the dose of nutes with the res change yesterday? It's only FloraGro...
I'm also splashing some h202 in there, I don't know exactly how much to use and I'm afraid to ask again because I know it's probably all over Roseman's DIY, I just don't have the time to sift through all the questions/comments, for example the newest ramblings of some illiterate guy that wasn't even talking about marijuana.
I'm also splashing some h202 in there, I don't know exactly how much to use and I'm afraid to ask again because I know it's probably all over Roseman's DIY, I just don't have the time to sift through all the questions/comments, for example the newest ramblings of some illiterate guy that wasn't even talking about marijuana.
loolagigi
Well-Known Member
you gatta get the temps down bro.
all i can tell you is my rooms high temp is 77. my res temps high is about 73-75. now, i have had no problems with my grow, and this is my first dwc bucket grow. you have to think of your grow area as a enviornment. you need to contain a happy enviornment.
i use a cabinet. i use a a high cfm fan to pull heat from my cooltube out.
i use 3 comp fans to also pull in, and pull out air., pulling air out is positioned high, and pulling air in is low.
it took me a while to get this right. but now, i can pay more attention to my plants needs, and not maintaining my room temps all day. im not sure what your working with. all i know is try new things...
no changes, means no changes. got it? hoped this helped.