The BubbleHead Gang

MostlyCrazy said:

Congrats Drab on fixing whatever was wrong and learning the power of a res change and some extra bubbles!

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grodrowithme said:

HEY GUYS WHATS UP? SINCE I DECIDED TO GO D.W.C. AFTER READING IN LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS OF OUR THREADS FOR INFO AND STARTING ASS SOON AS I DID I WILL DO A FEW THINGS DIFFERENT AFTER THIS HARVEST THANKS TO ALL THE STUFF FROM YOU GUYS HERES A COUPLE OF PICS EVERYONE SHOULD CHECK OUT THE THREAD THOUGH GIVE ME YOUR COMMENTS CAUSE IM THINKING OF TAKING YOU UP ON THE OFFER OF BECOMING A BUBBLEHEAD

THE FIRST PIC WAS JUST A SPEC COMPAIRED TO WHAT WAS COMING

THE 2ND PIC WAS LOOKING TO FILL OUT A ROOM WITH A SYSTEM I WAS STARTING TO LOVE AS FAST AS IT COULD GROW ROOTS

THE 3RD IS 7 DAYS FROM THE 2ND PIC. WHEN I SEEN THE GROWTH COMPAIRED TO MY SOIL I NEW I WOULD NEVER TURN BACK

THE 4TH PIC IS ONLY 6 DAYS LATER AND YOU SHOULD SEE IT NOW ITS BEEN 17 DAYS SINCE THE 4TH PIC

THE 5TH PIC IS THE HUMBOLDT NUTE PROGRAM I USE ALONG WITH BOTANICARE SWEET GRAPE,SUPERTHRIVE,AND AWESOME BLOSSOM! AND A COUPLE OTHER THINGS FOR FOLLIAR SPRAYS

CHECK THE JOURNAL TO SEE THE MOST INSANE BUSHES EVER!!!

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/254308-12-12-50-60-day.html

THANKS GUYS FOR CONVINCING ME TO GO DWC AND FOR ALL THE HELP PLEASE CHECK THE JOURNAL TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK I WANT TO PUT THE BUBBLE HEAD LOGO IN THE SIG SO SEE YOU GUYS THERE. SEE WHAT A 17 DAY DIFFERENCE DOES!!!

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2822bubba said:

hHi everyone i need some help please. I am on 8th day and my leaves are wilting, I checked the ph and its 5.6 but the temp in the room is 84 and the water is warm to any suggestions would be appreciated. I also raised up the light to help cool everthing down a bit.

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(Digital $6.95 at Walmart)

This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift too far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in Afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.

Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15F from that of the daytime temperature.

There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.

$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmartm Aquarium Departments





Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can not be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.

Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.

On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants’ roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant’s root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.

Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.

HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.

Have you ever seen how an outdoor plant loves a rain shower? In Vegging, I mist them daily. I mist with plain distilled water and i mist with a foilage spray too. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.

Cheap Cool Mist Humidifiers from Walmart:

Ultrasonic Humidifier With Light


$28.97

Graco, Cool Mist Humidifier, 1.5 Gallon $29.96




During Flowering, we need a low humidity, especially to avoid Bud mold and bud rot.

Cheap De-Humidifier for closets and tents
$40 at amazon.com

2822bubba said:

my plants are wilting on day 8, I checked the ph and it is 5.6 temps are high though 80-85 so i put some ice in the res to cool it down what else should i checked. i also raised the light up a little to cool them down , any help would be appreciated

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OSCILATING FANS

drabstab said:

Buh. I moved my temp/hum meter to my little grow box today. 92 degrees F, 35% humidity. What the hell am I gonna do. I put five ice cubes in my res today when the temperature IN THE RES was 90 (scary), and managed to lower it by twelve degrees over the course of eight hours, but the room temp/humidity is still horrible. I'll have to improve air circulation or do something tomorrow. The temp in the res was a constant 70 when they weren't in the box, no ice or anything. Plus I did a res change yesterday, and it's already smelling weird. And my roots were fresh white yesterday, now they're browning up a little bit. Not much, but I still notice. This is harder than I thought. Could my roots be browning a little bit because I upped the dose of nutes with the res change yesterday? It's only FloraGro...

I'm also splashing some h202 in there, I don't know exactly how much to use and I'm afraid to ask again because I know it's probably all over Roseman's DIY, I just don't have the time to sift through all the questions/comments, for example the newest ramblings of some illiterate guy that wasn't even talking about marijuana.

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