6500K v. 2700K for Flowering...any hard proof?
- Thread starter om3gawave
- Start date
lemonjellow
Well-Known Member
i am using cfl right now . i started out using 6500k for veg at about 6 weeks . for a joke i threw in a couple of 26w 2700k, they just happen to be laying around the more lumens the better right . well anyway , right away after adding the 2700k my plants went into overdrive on the growth .within a week they were showing preflowers 5 out of 8 were female the other 3 got balls and the chop.one of them got the lst and has about 18 acorn sized buds at 12 days into flowering. i have searched this site and cant find a whole lot of anything that is bigger at 12 days with out hid lights . i am convinced , maybe i try to get some pics up ?
rivers2gates
Well-Known Member
Yes . you would know that if you did any search whatsoever. of course you need 2700k bulbs unless you want little fluffy colas. follow this site and read the faq. youll get it.Is there any hard proof that 2700K bulbs are better for flowering than 6500K bulbs? I can understand the logic behind using them, but is there anyone who has experimented with this?
I mostly just don't want to go out and buy 8 x 42W 2700K bulbs
om3gawave
Active Member
You clearly don't understand my question.
I have been a member of this community for quite some time and understand the "search function", the FAQ, and all general guidelines on growing plants in general! HOWEVER, what I am asking is there somewhere comparing a plant grown with a 6500K bulb(s) and a plant grown with 2700K bulb(s). Sure, theres a boatload of people spewing that 2700K bulbs work better for flowering...but is there any PROOF.
Get it together.
Gardener 09
Active Member
610 - 720 nm or 2700k light This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)
woolypudding69
Active Member
All the proof you need is the fact that you want to recreate, as closely as possible, the natural conditions of your plants life cycle. We can manipulate this to a certain degree through extending our "days", whether it be 24 on with no dark, or 18/6 which I prefer because all plants need some time to rest. Now the next thing that comes into consideration is the maturing of the plant, once put into flower your plants hormones are affected, creating a chemical change in the plant in preparation for procreation before its death. In nature, this is caused by the shortening of days as well as a difference in the spectrum of light that plants are receiving from the sun. Thats what these light spectrum's are derived from (2300k to 6700k) with the middle ground being mostly useless due to it being representative of the transition of the grow season into the flowering season. Thats why we, being able to manipulate, go straight to the best spectrum's to receive the best results for the full amount of available time. Increasing your plants potential, and giving it a chance to fulfill its genetic code.Is there any hard proof that 2700K bulbs are better for flowering than 6500K bulbs? I can understand the logic behind using them, but is there anyone who has experimented with this?
I mostly just don't want to go out and buy 8 x 42W 2700K bulbs
I tried to put this as easily understandable as possible. Hope it helps. If you were looking for a more detailed explanation, with sources, then I wish you luck finding someone who's a more motivated pot head then I. LOL
bigboyfly713
Well-Known Member
great answer wooly!!! +rep
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
in nature it gets both spectrums year round, during spring the light is mostly blue spectrum but it still gets red spectrum and in late summer/fall it shift over to having mostly red spectrum and lower levels of blue. so to recreate natures color spectrums you need both spectrums not just one or the other.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
as for proof-im sure you should be able to find a graph or chart somewhere on google or somewhere that illustrates this.
rivers2gates
Well-Known Member
42 posts and asking if red spectrum is needed in flower......brilliant. ya you got it down.
I
Illegal Smile
Guest
I'm certain there is plenty of horticultural academic literature that proves it beyond any doubt. Do you expect anyone here to go research that for you? If you want to doubt what is common knowledge do so at your own risk.
smppro
Well-Known Member
Yea its not an opinion from marijuana growers, its science. And to the person that said not using 2700 will give you fluffy buds, where do you get this. You might want to try that research yourself before you come to somebodies thread to criticize them. Or maybe research is your problem, try actually doing it.
JonnyBtreed
Well-Known Member
The light spectrum is closer that of the sun in the fall. The Spectrum of light that 2700 lights give off is what you need for flowering. It's not a debate/
wyteboi
Well-Known Member
I HAVE done both....... i used mh to veg and flower and vice versa with NO huge difference. so i imagine that the folks who think mh/5500k+ make fluffy buds , just have not tried it. and i probably would not have tried it either but thats all i had layin around at the time. (i would not recommend 6500 for bloom , i am just sayin that i have tried it before)
IMO , i would recommend 70% - 30% blue for veg .........and the oppisite for bloom.
IMO , i would recommend 70% - 30% blue for veg .........and the oppisite for bloom.
rivers2gates
Well-Known Member
This is a cfl thread pro. try flowering with daylight cfl's and let me know how that goes for ya.
smppro
Well-Known Member
have you?This is a cfl thread pro. try flowering with daylight cfl's and let me know how that goes for ya.
woolypudding69
Active Member
I forgot to mention that. Good save. In flower I try to keep 6500k as 1/4 of my lighting, wattage wise. So with eight bulbs on one plant, Id be using 2 daylight spectrum. Which I position directly of the top of the plant, and use my 2700k as my side and under lighting. Getting the plant surrounded and snug with 2700k has really increased the density and fullness of my buds. My most recent plant is 2 weeks from harvest, possibly 3 if I decide to hold out an extra week, is already looking like its gonna put out around 2 ounces. Mind you, this a plant that is barely over two feet tall and has been topped using Uncle Bens Method. 260 watts on it, with another 260 positioned right next to it over another plant. That should be some proof for you.
Also, check out this thread, this guy had an amazing grow with cfls.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/170307-1-x-super-lemon-haze.html