When should I transplant?? How to do it properly? REP +

JN811

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, this is my first "legit" grow. My plants are about a week in to veg. and growing at a good rate. I am using red plastic (beer pong )cups. So my question is how long should I wait to transplant and how do i do it? I can't really find any good info about it but I did read I can just cut the bottom of the cup out, rather then removing the soil from the cup, is their a downside of doing this?? Should I go straight to 5 gallon pots or will 3 gallons do? Thanks!!
:peace:
 

newb101

New Member
yea i would cut the cups at the top and slowly pull them apart cause once you start it, its easy to tear all the way down, if it were me i would go ahead and put them in 5 gal they way you know forsure you giving plant enough room for roots and all plus would suck to have to transplant from 3 gal to 5 gal. lol just my opinion though. when, i would wait til 3rd or 4th leaf set.
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
yea i would cut the cups at the top and slowly pull them apart cause once you start it, its easy to tear all the way down, if it were me i would go ahead and put them in 5 gal they way you know forsure you giving plant enough room for roots and all plus would suck to have to transplant from 3 gal to 5 gal. lol just my opinion though. when, i would wait til 3rd or 4th leaf set.
cool, should i water or keep the soil dry?Thanks!:blsmoke:
 

NOWitall

Active Member
wow deja view

heres take two

1. use a container of same size as your sprout container to make a roughly same sized crater in your new pot.
2. use a toothpick, slide around inside of cup to loosen soil from the sides.
3. place hand over top of cup, palm down, with sprout sticking out between your middle two fingers.
4. turn upside down.
5. gently remove cup.
6. if rootbound, manhandle slightly to loosen the root network
7. place in preformed crater
8. gently fill gap with soil, add soil untill surface is 1/8th inch higher than it was
9. water gently to allow dirt to fill in crevices, water around the edge slowly at first to wash loose dirt towards center
10. this step is optional, i use superthrive for root recovery, actually works good on clone shock, fert damage recovery. (does not live up to its hype, but it is usefull)

i am limited by space, and use smaller containers to keep vertical growth stunted.
so i transplant when the roots start to poke out the drain holes, thats a good sign they need more room.

if you just cut off the bottom and plant the cup it makes your roots have to work a bit harder to start radiating outward.
but other than a minor hiccup in growth ultimately it wont make much difference.

as too container size that all depends on how big you plan on going.
indoor, outdoor. and such. a one gallon pot will support a little over 3 feet. a 3 gallon pot should put you up to like6-7+.
but like i said i dwarf mine
 

GrizzlyAdams

Well-Known Member
Newb101, I am going to go ahead and cry foul on that advice. Jn811, you just commented on my plant. Listen to me.

Soak your cup, soak your new soil. Wet wet wet, water pouring out the drainage holes. To the point where regular soil would be mud (but not yours because you have good drainage!)

The roots you see don't actually do anything. Water and nutes are absorbed by roots on a much smaller level. Thousands of root hairs span outwards in every direction from your visible roots. This is where the plants drink and absorb nutes using something called proton pumps. The in depth science of it is pretty sweet but I digress.

Wet sticky soil will hold roots and root hairs more immobile than dry soil. Plants suffer transplant shock not because they're in a new pot or new soil, they haven't grown roots into it yet so why should it suffer immediately if that was the case? Transplant shock occurs because shearing motion of your dirt severs roots hairs, small roots and disrupts the plant's underground structure.

Transplanting is more simple than anyone makes it out to be. Two rules.
#1. Your plant has the same mass above ground as below, if there wouldn't be enough room in the pot for that, transplant.
#2. Do your best to keep the soil from shearing off roots, this is why you see so many cautions for transplanting gently.

Good luck.
 

nellyatcha

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, this is my first "legit" grow. My plants are about a week in to veg. and growing at a good rate. I am using red plastic (beer pong )cups. So my question is how long should I wait to transplant and how do i do it? I can't really find any good info about it but I did read I can just cut the bottom of the cup out, rather then removing the soil from the cup, is their a downside of doing this?? Should I go straight to 5 gallon pots or will 3 gallons do? Thanks!!
:peace:
cut holes in the bottom and then leave the bottom of the cups in water so get another cup and have water in that one and put the cup with the holes at the bottom inside that one and wait until you see roots coming out the holes and etc then you can skip the cup and transplant it into a 2 gallon pot wo just put them in 2 gallon pots right now and make sure you leave it open at the bottom otherwise its just going to out grow the pot and come out the bottom if its covered and then you need to re transplant which sucks bro
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
Newb101, I am going to go ahead and cry foul on that advice. Jn811, you just commented on my plant. Listen to me.

Soak your cup, soak your new soil. Wet wet wet, water pouring out the drainage holes. To the point where regular soil would be mud (but not yours because you have good drainage!)

The roots you see don't actually do anything. Water and nutes are absorbed by roots on a much smaller level. Thousands of root hairs span outwards in every direction from your visible roots. This is where the plants drink and absorb nutes using something called proton pumps. The in depth science of it is pretty sweet but I digress.

Wet sticky soil will hold roots and root hairs more immobile than dry soil. Plants suffer transplant shock not because they're in a new pot or new soil, they haven't grown roots into it yet so why should it suffer immediately if that was the case? Transplant shock occurs because shearing motion of your dirt severs roots hairs, small roots and disrupts the plant's underground structure.

Transplanting is more simple than anyone makes it out to be. Two rules.
#1. Your plant has the same mass above ground as below, if there wouldn't be enough room in the pot for that, transplant.
#2. Do your best to keep the soil from shearing off roots, this is why you see so many cautions for transplanting gently.

Good luck.
So grizzly, is it not ok to just cut the bottom of the cup out and put the cup into a bigger pot? Will the roots just grow out the bottom or is it better to just get rid of the cup? Thanks again!
 

GrizzlyAdams

Well-Known Member
Aight. Soaking the soil, cutting the cup off, then placing the plug of dirt into a pre-dug hole in your new pot is the best way to go. Botany science incoming, don't have to read it, but you'll understand root systems better.

Picture #1. Roots. This plant is pretty well rootbound. Remember, the roots you can see "aren't doing anything" per se. There are hairs spiraling off everywhere.

Picture #2. Cross section of a root after the hairs have developed. Takes about a week for this to happen after the root has grown.

Picture #3. This picture looks pretty complex, it really isn't since you don't need to know any names, just the shape. You have 1 main root at first, the main root sprouts lateral roots, those lateral roots more lateral roots, so on and so forth.

Picture #4. This is a basic cross-section of any living vascular root. Could be an oak tree, could be from an alfalfa sprout, could be from MJ. Doesn't matter. The epidermis you see on there becomes root hairs. It completely encircles the root. (vascular rays are the plant's veins that transfer the goodies upwards. Did you know pH is actually a system of the frequency of hydrogen? Proper pH meshes because its the proper kind of hydrogen, when proton pumps in the root system moves cations across the cell membrane that aren't properly charged, it collides with improperly charged hydrogen in your plant and destroys what it hits. Crazy eh?)

Mary jane will bounce back from almost anything you throw at her as long as growth of anything is possible in the conditions you've provided. If you don't allow the roots to grow sideways (i.e. only cutting the bottom of your cup), they'll simply grow downward, hit bottom, then start growing upward, get too close to the top, then curve again. . . . but will take a week or two to do so. I will personally guarantee you that promoting excellent root growth will cause your plants to explode with growth above ground as well. Part of promoting good growth is a proper wet/dry cycle of watering. If your plant's soil is allowed to dry out between waterings, the roots go looking for water, makes them beefy. Roots pushing around trying to drink also oxygenates the soil and prevents root rot. If you use a proper wet dry cycle and have plenty of light, I promise your plant will grow .5-2 inches overnight after waterings in a good veg.

Wet/Dry watering - wait until your pot is light or your meter reads very low moisture, but before your plant begins to full on wilt, wilting is stress, dry conditions are not. After it is dried out, you want root ball saturation. Water slowly and steadily until water is running out the bottom of the pot into your drainage tray. Leave your plant for about 15 minutes to see if your plant will draw the water back up into the soil. If the tray is empty, water again until you have water in your drainage tray. After it remains for 15 minutes, dump it out and wait until it gets dry again. You can play with it a little, like watering twice, drying once, etc. Whatever gets the best results for the phenotype you're working on. I grew my monster by rotating 1 water, 1 dry - but I wasn't going for fast growth.
 

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GrizzlyAdams

Well-Known Member
That 4th pic isn't showing up in the thumbnail embed. When it comes up with a black background, double click to get it into its own window and you can see the full diagram.
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
One more question grizzly, I used half of a milk gallon for a couple of my plants which are growing very fast , like an inch a day. Will my roots spread out to the width of the gallon, since I don't have that much soil hieght wise? How long would you say I should wait to transplant these girls, like a month? Thanks again!
 

NOWitall

Active Member
yes they will spread to fill the jug.

hopefully they arent planted in the same jug or the root balls will grow together
 

GrizzlyAdams

Well-Known Member
1 of the 2 simple transplant rules man. The plant is going to want to be the same size above ground as below. When it looks like it would need more room, transplant.

Other factors to look for
-You have to water twice as frequently
-Your plant slows way down in growth speed
-Roots are clogging the drainage holes in your pot

When you transplant, you don't want to look like that rootbound picture. The fact that the plant sits there with the dirt in the same shape as the pot WITHOUT the pot means there was not an xplant soon enough.
 

cowell

Well-Known Member
1 of the 2 simple transplant rules man. The plant is going to want to be the same size above ground as below.
that's horseshit. :o


Just kidding. Look at you go Grizz.. I'm just going to follow you around and go "ya, what he said"..lol..

again.. just joking..nice work.
I'd rep you again.. but I think I just gave you some..
 
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