2000w Purple Kush 106 Plant Ebb and Flow SOG

[rbahadosingh]

So its been a little over a month since my last grow. This time im sticking with the same setup but its just twice as big. You can see my last grow here 64 plant ebb and flow sog purple kush and purple erkle
I made a mistake by using 2 strains last time and this time im going with all PK. But instead of 64 ladies in each tray im going with 53 in each tray. I anticipate yielding atleast 3 lbs and maybe closer to 4.

Ive upgraded from the 4x4 sunhut to the 4x8 now. I will be using 2 1000w air cooled hps in magnum xxxl 8" hoods for maximum coverage. sentinel chhc-1 controller. co2 set to 1500ppm and a dehumidifier set to 58% relative humidity during the day and night. i will try to keep my temps between 80-85. im running the lights at night so it will be pretty easy to keep the temps under control. i actually think i will have to add a heater in there this time to bring the temps up to the 80's. Last grow there was a week or more when they couldnt receive co2 due to temperature problems. I shouldnt have that problem this time and they will be able to grow at their full potential. Im using the lucas formula again and am then adding AN Big Bud after week 2 or so. I plan on vegging them for aproximately 2 weeks or so just to get the roots going and then switching them over to flower.

I conditioned my rockwool with Water ph'd to 5.0 with 200ppm of liquid karma.

Here are a few pictures.

 

[Bob Smith]

Subbed, seeing as how we're brothers from another mother, and all that.

First question - the specs on the 4x8 are massive, actually like almost 10x5 - do you feel as though you might be better off with a custom built table to fully utilize that size?

 

[jsteezy1290]

ive been looking for others with this hut but damn i dont know if i even have room for it lol, what is the actual dimensions so i can measure

 

[rbahadosingh]

Subbed, seeing as how we're brothers from another mother, and all that.

First question - the specs on the 4x8 are massive, actually like almost 10x5 - do you feel as though you might be better off with a custom built table to fully utilize that size?

I actually like the 2 4x4 trays in there because they fit pretty well. I moved both of them as far over to one side of the tent as possible to leave a little extra room on the other side for my dehumidifier. If i had a custom built table i dont know where i would be able to fit the dehumidifer. But then again i would probably be able to fit another 2 to 3 rows of plants with the extra room. So it all depends on the grower. But to answer your question i dont think building a custom table would be worth it.

ive been looking for others with this hut but damn i dont know if i even have room for it lol, what is the actual dimensions so i can measure

57" x 111"

 

[theloadeddragon]

interesting set up I will watch this one as well

 

[jsteezy1290]

so its bigger then advertised

 

[crossouttheiis]

how long did you veg for before? how long do you plan on it for this bunch? what type of method do you use? lolipop, topping, fim?

 

[rbahadosingh]

how long did you veg for before? how long do you plan on it for this bunch? what type of method do you use? lolipop, topping, fim?

my last grow i vegged for 15 days. I plan on vegging for about the same amount of time this run. I might let them veg a little longer but im going to switch to flower no later than December 1st. i lollipop them.

 

[theloadeddragon]

3 lbs it is..... but just barely.... I venture a guess in the dark........

 

[fatman7574]

Five to 6 pounds. With some more tweaking up to 7 or 8 pounds. IMHO Lower the humidity a little, increase temps to 88 to 90, keep day and night temperature near the same (within 10 degrees max difference), increase CO2 to 2000 ppm, short frequent watering cycle, eliminate the fan blowing on the plants and use heat tubes (PVC pipes in the corners to blow cooler floor air that is higher in CO2 back up to above the plant canopy). Keep the light thermal out put as low as possible with strong cool air movement through the tubes and get the light as close as light thermal output will allow as long as they are high enough to evenly spraed the light over all the plants. As long as you have adequate calcium ppm the fan postion is not needed to strengthen the plants stems so it is really a debit. As is the fan will neccesitate that the humidity be as high as you suggest which in all actuallity just lowers transpiration. Doing away with the fan will allow for a slightly lower relative humidity and therefore will increase transpiration and respiration. It does very little good to supply supplemental CO2, high heat and good nutrient/water supply if you slow down the respiration with a high humidity. Once you get things running well lower your relative humidity just a small amount and see how much more nutrient water you go through. Lower t both the tempearture and the humidity for budding. Say 80 80 85 degrees and relative humidity of 40% and evem lower for the last tow eeks. Increased water uptake means increased tranpiration and respiration. Increased transpiration and respiration means more growth. However with incraesed water up take you also need to lower the EC. Just drop the relative humidity a few points (3 or 4) at a time until the plants show signs of inadequate water or until the plants quit taking up increased levels of water. With indica and afghani strains you will be quite surprised at the increased water/nutrient up take under maxed out conditions and lowered relative humidity. They are from a hot dry climate after all. While in their native lands they perform better when the get coastal winds bringing in increased CO2, the researchers found they respond to the increased CO2 brought by the winds not the increased humidity of the coastal winds. Winds in areas further away from the coast also provide the same benefits and thet are dry winds.

Don't do the thing with putting the tall plants around the edges and the shorter under the center of the light that is commonly done by a lot of growers using large wattage bulbs. Instead if your tray watering system will allow just raise the trays up that contain the short plants. It makes no sense to place the best growing plants out to the edges if they are the plants best responding to the conditions supplied. Movu ing them to the edges is pemnalizing them for growing better. Doesn't make sense. I digress.

At least 5 pounds, likely more than less.

 

[squarepush3r]

I just started my grow. I have 64 plants in 4" rockwool ontop of a coco mat in a 4x4 sun hut under 1000w air cooled HPS. Also im using a Sentinel CHHC-1 controller for co2 enrichment and management. Its Hooked up to 15lb co2 tank and exhaust fan. Ive done sog a few times in soil and decided it was time to try hydro. The strains ive chosen are Purple Kush from Blue Sky coffee shop in oakland and Purple Erkle from the purple heart in oakland. I hope to yield 640 grams. Hopefully my goal isnt too high. What do you all think the total yield will be? I plan on vegging for about a 5-7 days just to get the roots going into the rockwool blocks pretty well before i switch to flower. I will be using co2 with the ppm set to 1500. If temps reach 89 the co2 will stop and the exhaust fan kicks in to cool down everything. I will be running the light at night in order to try and keep the temps as low as possible. Im using GH Micro and GH Bloom nutes. 8ml per gal of micro and 16ml per gal of bloom.

3-4 lbs total (edit: minimum)

What kind of tent / enclosure are you using? Can you do a good sealed room with the grow tents which it appears you have?


Is this the tent you have?

 

[Bob Smith]

I actually like the 2 4x4 trays in there because they fit pretty well. I moved both of them as far over to one side of the tent as possible to leave a little extra room on the other side for my dehumidifier. If i had a custom built table i dont know where i would be able to fit the dehumidifer. But then again i would probably be able to fit another 2 to 3 rows of plants with the extra room. So it all depends on the grower. But to answer your question i dont think building a custom table would be worth it.


57" x 111"

Thanks; the way your pictures looked, I just assumed that there was as much space on the other side of the table (that we couldn't see).

Appreciate you clearing that up for me.

 

[HAMandCHEEZ4life]

def excited to watch this. im saying youll prolly get 2-2.5 which is good for 2000 W. I usually try to get a p per 1000 w. which is shooting low. usually end up gettin more. good luck brah!

 

[crossouttheiis]

that is a pretty short veg time. you get clones then I am assuming? lolipopping is to cut off all other branches aside for the main stem? do you use those as clones for your next round?

 

[rbahadosingh]

3 lbs it is..... but just barely.... I venture a guess in the dark........

i have to disagree. im going to get 3lbs atleast. that would be only 13g per plant. on my last run the smaller ones one the sides that got the least amount of light averaged 14-15. and the ones in the middle got as much as 24 per plant. so i know ill have atleast 3lbs.

Five to 6 pounds. With some more tweaking up to 7 or 8 pounds. IMHO Lower the humidity a little, increase temps to 88 to 90, keep day and night temperature near the same (within 10 degrees max difference), increase CO2 to 2000 ppm, short frequent watering cycle, eliminate the fan blowing on the plants and use heat tubes (PVC pipes in the corners to blow cooler floor air that is higher in CO2 back up to above the plant canopy). Keep the light thermal out put as low as possible with strong cool air movement through the tubes and get the light as close as light thermal output will allow as long as they are high enough to evenly spraed the light over all the plants. As long as you have adequate calcium ppm the fan postion is not needed to strengthen the plants stems so it is really a debit. As is the fan will neccesitate that the humidity be as high as you suggest which in all actuallity just lowers transpiration. Doing away with the fan will allow for a slightly lower relative humidity and therefore will increase transpiration and respiration. It does very little good to supply supplemental CO2, high heat and good nutrient/water supply if you slow down the respiration with a high humidity. Once you get things running well lower your relative humidity just a small amount and see how much more nutrient water you go through. Lower t both the tempearture and the humidity for budding. Say 80 80 85 degrees and relative humidity of 40% and evem lower for the last tow eeks. Increased water uptake means increased tranpiration and respiration. Increased transpiration and respiration means more growth. However with incraesed water up take you also need to lower the EC. Just drop the relative humidity a few points (3 or 4) at a time until the plants show signs of inadequate water or until the plants quit taking up increased levels of water. With indica and afghani strains you will be quite surprised at the increased water/nutrient up take under maxed out conditions and lowered relative humidity. They are from a hot dry climate after all. While in their native lands they perform better when the get coastal winds bringing in increased CO2, the researchers found they respond to the increased CO2 brought by the winds not the increased humidity of the coastal winds. Winds in areas further away from the coast also provide the same benefits and thet are dry winds.

Don't do the thing with putting the tall plants around the edges and the shorter under the center of the light that is commonly done by a lot of growers using large wattage bulbs. Instead if your tray watering system will allow just raise the trays up that contain the short plants. It makes no sense to place the best growing plants out to the edges if they are the plants best responding to the conditions supplied. Movu ing them to the edges is pemnalizing them for growing better. Doesn't make sense. I digress.

At least 5 pounds, likely more than less.

thanks. very informative post. ill definately try to lower my humidity. i dont know if my dehumidifier will be able to keep up with the plants. my last grow it had a hard time just lowering the humidity back down to 50%. and now there are twice as many plants so i think ill have to get a bigger one. and i hope your right about 5lbs.

 

[rbahadosingh]

3-4 lbs total (edit: minimum)

What kind of tent / enclosure are you using? Can you do a good sealed room with the grow tents which it appears you have?


Is this the tent you have?

I have a 4x8 SunHut. you can see it here. You can do an pretty good sealed environment. some of the co2 does leak out but it still gets the job done.

Thanks; the way your pictures looked, I just assumed that there was as much space on the other side of the table (that we couldn't see).

Appreciate you clearing that up for me.

no problem.

def excited to watch this. im saying youll prolly get 2-2.5 which is good for 2000 W. I usually try to get a p per 1000 w. which is shooting low. usually end up gettin more. good luck brah!

nice to have you along for the ride. and i have to say your wrong about your estimate. i know im going to get atleast 3. a lb per 1000 is ok. the best growers get a gram per watt.

that is a pretty short veg time. you get clones then I am assuming? lolipopping is to cut off all other branches aside for the main stem? do you use those as clones for your next round?

yes i do. i take my own clones. i have 15 or so mothers going at all times. lollipopping is to cut the all the branches on the lower third of the plant and just leave the ones up top so you will have pretty much just one main top cola and not too many side branches. no i do not use them as clones for my next round i usually just toss em. i try to take my clones off my mothers around 30 days into flowering that way they will be rooted and ready to go as soon as this grow is done. that way i dont have any down time. the reason this one took so long is because my last batch of clones had root maggots so i had to throw them all out and wait on my mothers for a few weeks to get some more.

 

[fatman7574]

i have to disagree. im going to get 3lbs atleast. that would be only 13g per plant. on my last run the smaller ones one the sides that got the least amount of light averaged 14-15. and the ones in the middle got as much as 24 per plant. so i know ill have atleast 3lbs.



thanks. very informative post. ill definately try to lower my humidity. i dont know if my dehumidifier will be able to keep up with the plants. my last grow it had a hard time just lowering the humidity back down to 50%. and now there are twice as many plants so i think ill have to get a bigger one. and i hope your right about 5lbs.

Yeah, many people buy small dehumidifiers at high prices. A dehumifier is really very nearly the same as a cheap window air conditioner. With a window airconditioner there is a compressor that sends freon to an evaporator. This evaporator has a small filter in front of it and a fan behind it. The fan pulls warm moist air through the filter and evaporator. The moisture condenses on the evaporator and becomes cold water that normally runs out of the back of the air conditioner and drips onto the ground. The now dry air is sent back out of the front of the top of the air conditioner dehumidified and cold. The freon is now a liquid that flows down to a condensor carrying the heat that was extracted from the room air and the rooms humidity. There a small fan blows outside air through the condensor whereby it removes the heat and blows it into the outside air.

The difference with the dehumidifier is that it sits entirely indoors and there is usually just the one front fan. It draws air through the evaporator and blows it through the condensor. So in effect it returns the heat it has just extracted back into the room because the dehumifier exhaustes back into the room instead of outside. The electricity saved is really very small because it requires a larger fan to draw air through the condensor as well as blow it through the evaporator than it takes to do either of the other fan functions. So the savings is about 10 watts per hour for the same btu capapacity (dehumidification capacity). Window airconditioners are available much more cheaply as there are many more made and sold than there are dehumidifiers. One only needs to buy a cheap Sears or Walmart window airconditioner and set entirely inside the grow area in a manner that one rear corner is a bit lower than every other corner so that all the water drips from that one low spot.

 

[rbahadosingh]

well the temp in my tent has been really cool. Actually a little bit too cool. I checked it a while ago and they were down to 69. I dont have a heater in there yet so i turned off the fan that cools the lights and was a little bit surprised that the co2 reading went up to the 700's. The temps warmed up to the high 70's as well. So im wondering if HPS bulbs release co2 when burned? Or why exactly did the co2 reading go up? I think im going to plug my fan that cools the light into my controller as the cooling. So that it will come on if the temps get too high and cool it down.

 

[fatman7574]

No, neither HPS nor Halide lights do not produce CO2, and no a broken outter galass on a common HPS or Halide light does not cause them to produce large amounts of YV light or ozone. Ozone and UV lighting blocked by the outter light glass on a HID bulb is to blockAbsorb UV but the maount issued by the bulbs is so small that it is moore of a UV danger to the eyes that is a concern. The amount of ozone is negligible as Ox zone is released with lighting in the 180-220 nm
range. There are few bulbs manafacturer in that range except those specifically produced to produce UV rays.

Unless you have very tightly sealed the ducting and connections on yout light associated cooling system you are likely pulling some grow room air in through the cracks and openings and therefore sucking out some of your piped in CO2 whenever the lights cooling system is running. The fan should be ouyside the room/tent blowing air through the dusts/hose/tubes and exiting through a duct/hose. There should be no carbon can, just coll air blowing through your system. None of upr grow system air should enterthose ducts/hoses/fittings. There is a dct tape used by HIVAC people that looks like vert y thin aluminy um that has adhesic ve on one side that works well. There is a caulking sold as firewall caulking that withstands extreme heating without relaesing toxic gases. It also works well , but is typically red in color tso that the building inspectors know wj hen they see it aoround pies and ducting etc. that it is truly ffirewall rated caulking.

If I were you I would cover the outside of the tent with sheets of foam insulation. If you have already purchased the needed equipment to utilze the davanatge CO2 will provide you might as well do what it takes to keep your system in the temperature range where that CO2 and intnse lighting is put to use. Other than possible air collong duct leakage it sounds like you have everything needed for great growth except the higher temps that your system could handle. As is at those temps your wasting potential as that is more intense lighting than the plants can uitilze at ambient CO2 levels. Plus you have a nutrient/water delivery system capable of handing a grow with supplemented CO2 ansd intense lighting. However to heat the tent area would mean heating the room o it is located in unless you insulate the tent. A tent is just not constructed of a material capable of stopping the heat flow out of the tents. They really out to sell tents have have a healthy layer of fiber insulation between the white and black plastic layers, but that would mean a much larger shipping size.

 

[rbahadosingh]

I setup my res today. Im using the lucas formula. I will add Big Bud after 2 or 3 weeks flowering. I have 2 pumps in a 40 gal res. I run one for 20 min then wait 10 min so the nutrient solution has drained back down into the res and run the other pump for 20 min. PH is 5.5 and EC is 1.6.