ThePresident
Member
how do i convert this outdoor security light so that i can plug it into the wall??
Converting a security light
- Thread starter ThePresident
- Start date
ThePresident
Member
BUMP!!!!!
MediMaryUser
Well-Known Member
get an extension cord with 2 prongs not three ,cut it, get caps and connect 1 wire to 1 wire then the other to the other then plug it in ,hope u dont get electrocuted
ThePresident
Member
im not offended by it ,, and yeah i know i shouldnt play with it so thats why im asking what do i need to convert it. i have other hps and mh lamps i just want to use this one for my other grow room. so helpfull advice would be nice,
MediMaryUser
Well-Known Member
i did what i said before and it always worked ive done it with like 4 different flood lights and a duct fan
Its really simple just strip the casing off about and inch from where you want the chord leading to the light to end then cut with some wire cutters find another chord that is two pronged repeat the process with that chord then you can do several things. A) Twist the wires together with your fingers B) Stop by a hardware store and pick up the caps that splice the wires together. Afterward cover the exposed wire with electrical tape plug in and enjoy.
dat
Active Member
that may be 220v... you might wanna check that out green is usually the ground wire. but if that was the case there would be a neutral too. its odd that the green wire isnt red or white. are you in the us? im an electrician and if i knew more about the light i can most likely help.
ThePresident
Member
ThePresident
Member
bump!!!!!!
robert 14617
Well-Known Member
How do I convert a home security light into a remote ballast grow light
How do I convert a home security light into a remote ballast grow light ?
For some reason growlight manufacturers are completely ignoring the small, personal grower. A quick look around Overgrow and you can see some very respectable bud being grown under 150's, and even 70 watt HPS lights. But the smallest ready made remote ballast growlight you can buy is a 250 watter, and they usually cost well over $150 (US).
So, as usual in the medicinal herb growing world, you need to take matters into your own hands.
Here’s how to turn a 150 watt HPS security light available at most Home improvment stores, into a nice remote-ballast grow light.
Materials & Tools:
MATERIALS
Regent GT150H, (About $79)
Heavy Duty extension cord of suitable length
One heavy duty grounded electrical plug end (male)
Electrical box
Electrical box plate
Romex cable connectors (3)
Wire nuts
Bolts, nuts washers
Strip of metal to secure ballast
Project case from Radio Shack ($6.99) #270-253A
TOOLS
5/16 nut driver (for removing parts from the casing -- regular pliers will work)
Philips head screwdriver
Regular screwdriver
Hammer
Power drill and assorted bits
Metal file
Wire cutters
Utility knife or wire stripper
Diagonal Pliers
Pliers
Wiring Diagram
Be careful...
Remove guts
Remove the guts from the casing - bulb socket, ignitor, light sensor socket, ballast. The ballast was glued to the casing. I heated the casing for a couple of minutes on an oven burner (high), and when it was getting too hot to hold, I put it on the floor and wedged a hammer between the ballast and casing and popped it out gently.
REMOVE LIGHT SENSOR
These security lights are designed to automatically turn on when it gets dark, so there is a built in light sensor that needs to be removed.
Remove all wire nuts.
Disconnect the white wire that comes out of the sensor (currently connected to all 3 other white wires).
Disconnect the black wire that comes out of the sensor (currently connected to the black “power in” wire).
The red wire coming out of the sensor is currently connected to the black wire coming out of the ballast. Remove the red wire, and then connect the black wire coming out of the ballast to the black “power in” wire.
Reattach wire nuts (there were 5 originally, now you only need 4).
Refer to the wiring diagram!
WIRE THE SOCKET
The socket on this particular light had some metal wiring connectors that stuck up and made it impossible to attach to the electrical plate without some modification (sorry no photo). Just pull the black and white wires off of the connectors, and cut the connectors down flush with socket base with diagonal pliers. Now loosen the connectors (screws inside the socket), slip the wires under them and tighten them back down. Please use some plastic electrical tape on the end of the socket to prevent any chance of the metal from the connectors making contact with the electrical box cover plate.
Secure the cord in the electrical box with a romex cable connector and wire it to the socket: black to black, white to white, secure with wire nuts. Some electrical boxes have a green screw inside to fasten ground wires, use that if yours has one, otherwise fasten the green ground wire to the box using one of the cover plate screws when you tighten the cover plate.
WIRE THE REMOTE BALLAST
Hopefully you can see the wiring clearly in the photo, but if not, refer to the wiring diagram for details.
You’re going to have to cut some holes in the Radio Shack project box for the power cords and some bolts to hold the ballast, ignitor and ground wires down.
I used a short length of metal (plumbing department) to secure the ballast. The ignitor had a notch that made it easy to bolt down. The ground wires from both electrical cords are screwed to the base of the box.
Cut a short length off the socket (female) end of the extension cord and wire it appropriately (again - see diagram). Wire the remaining electrical cord, including the grounded male plug to the other end of the box.
Use a tie wrap to bundle up the wires in the box and try to keep them away from the ballast, which will heat up during use.
TEST IT!
If you've done everything right, it should light.
Now, build a reflector and you’ve got a nice little custom grow light.
Safety Warnings:
Always wire the male plug to the bulb socket and the female receptacle to the ballast to avoid possible electrocution! Always use an all metal project box which already has ventilation cooling slots, or if your project box has none, please cut adequate cooling slots, or drill several vent holes in the ballast enclosure (project box) to allow the heat to escape the box. Not adding the cooling slots or holes, could result in failure of the insulation and/or the transformer. Also, please be sure the enclosure is located in a well ventilated area to aid cooling.
..................................................
is it mH or MV check out the light and lighting coverage in the grow faxgood luck ...rob
How do I convert a home security light into a remote ballast grow light ?
For some reason growlight manufacturers are completely ignoring the small, personal grower. A quick look around Overgrow and you can see some very respectable bud being grown under 150's, and even 70 watt HPS lights. But the smallest ready made remote ballast growlight you can buy is a 250 watter, and they usually cost well over $150 (US).
So, as usual in the medicinal herb growing world, you need to take matters into your own hands.
Here’s how to turn a 150 watt HPS security light available at most Home improvment stores, into a nice remote-ballast grow light.
Materials & Tools:
MATERIALS
Regent GT150H, (About $79)
Heavy Duty extension cord of suitable length
One heavy duty grounded electrical plug end (male)
Electrical box
Electrical box plate
Romex cable connectors (3)
Wire nuts
Bolts, nuts washers
Strip of metal to secure ballast
Project case from Radio Shack ($6.99) #270-253A
TOOLS
5/16 nut driver (for removing parts from the casing -- regular pliers will work)
Philips head screwdriver
Regular screwdriver
Hammer
Power drill and assorted bits
Metal file
Wire cutters
Utility knife or wire stripper
Diagonal Pliers
Pliers
Wiring Diagram
Be careful...
Remove guts
Remove the guts from the casing - bulb socket, ignitor, light sensor socket, ballast. The ballast was glued to the casing. I heated the casing for a couple of minutes on an oven burner (high), and when it was getting too hot to hold, I put it on the floor and wedged a hammer between the ballast and casing and popped it out gently.
REMOVE LIGHT SENSOR
These security lights are designed to automatically turn on when it gets dark, so there is a built in light sensor that needs to be removed.
Remove all wire nuts.
Disconnect the white wire that comes out of the sensor (currently connected to all 3 other white wires).
Disconnect the black wire that comes out of the sensor (currently connected to the black “power in” wire).
The red wire coming out of the sensor is currently connected to the black wire coming out of the ballast. Remove the red wire, and then connect the black wire coming out of the ballast to the black “power in” wire.
Reattach wire nuts (there were 5 originally, now you only need 4).
Refer to the wiring diagram!
WIRE THE SOCKET
The socket on this particular light had some metal wiring connectors that stuck up and made it impossible to attach to the electrical plate without some modification (sorry no photo). Just pull the black and white wires off of the connectors, and cut the connectors down flush with socket base with diagonal pliers. Now loosen the connectors (screws inside the socket), slip the wires under them and tighten them back down. Please use some plastic electrical tape on the end of the socket to prevent any chance of the metal from the connectors making contact with the electrical box cover plate.
Secure the cord in the electrical box with a romex cable connector and wire it to the socket: black to black, white to white, secure with wire nuts. Some electrical boxes have a green screw inside to fasten ground wires, use that if yours has one, otherwise fasten the green ground wire to the box using one of the cover plate screws when you tighten the cover plate.
WIRE THE REMOTE BALLAST
Hopefully you can see the wiring clearly in the photo, but if not, refer to the wiring diagram for details.
You’re going to have to cut some holes in the Radio Shack project box for the power cords and some bolts to hold the ballast, ignitor and ground wires down.
I used a short length of metal (plumbing department) to secure the ballast. The ignitor had a notch that made it easy to bolt down. The ground wires from both electrical cords are screwed to the base of the box.
Cut a short length off the socket (female) end of the extension cord and wire it appropriately (again - see diagram). Wire the remaining electrical cord, including the grounded male plug to the other end of the box.
Use a tie wrap to bundle up the wires in the box and try to keep them away from the ballast, which will heat up during use.
TEST IT!
If you've done everything right, it should light.
Now, build a reflector and you’ve got a nice little custom grow light.
Safety Warnings:
Always wire the male plug to the bulb socket and the female receptacle to the ballast to avoid possible electrocution! Always use an all metal project box which already has ventilation cooling slots, or if your project box has none, please cut adequate cooling slots, or drill several vent holes in the ballast enclosure (project box) to allow the heat to escape the box. Not adding the cooling slots or holes, could result in failure of the insulation and/or the transformer. Also, please be sure the enclosure is located in a well ventilated area to aid cooling.
..................................................
is it mH or MV check out the light and lighting coverage in the grow faxgood luck ...rob
ThePresident
Member
How do I convert a home security light into a remote ballast grow light
How do I convert a home security light into a remote ballast grow light ?
For some reason growlight manufacturers are completely ignoring the small, personal grower. A quick look around Overgrow and you can see some very respectable bud being grown under 150's, and even 70 watt HPS lights. But the smallest ready made remote ballast growlight you can buy is a 250 watter, and they usually cost well over $150 (US).
So, as usual in the medicinal herb growing world, you need to take matters into your own hands.
Heres how to turn a 150 watt HPS security light available at most Home improvment stores, into a nice remote-ballast grow light.
Materials & Tools:
MATERIALS
Regent GT150H, (About $79)
Heavy Duty extension cord of suitable length
One heavy duty grounded electrical plug end (male)
Electrical box
Electrical box plate
Romex cable connectors (3)
Wire nuts
Bolts, nuts washers
Strip of metal to secure ballast
Project case from Radio Shack ($6.99) #270-253A
TOOLS
5/16 nut driver (for removing parts from the casing -- regular pliers will work)
Philips head screwdriver
Regular screwdriver
Hammer
Power drill and assorted bits
Metal file
Wire cutters
Utility knife or wire stripper
Diagonal Pliers
Pliers
Wiring Diagram
Be careful...
Remove guts
Remove the guts from the casing - bulb socket, ignitor, light sensor socket, ballast. The ballast was glued to the casing. I heated the casing for a couple of minutes on an oven burner (high), and when it was getting too hot to hold, I put it on the floor and wedged a hammer between the ballast and casing and popped it out gently.
REMOVE LIGHT SENSOR
These security lights are designed to automatically turn on when it gets dark, so there is a built in light sensor that needs to be removed.
Remove all wire nuts.
Disconnect the white wire that comes out of the sensor (currently connected to all 3 other white wires).
Disconnect the black wire that comes out of the sensor (currently connected to the black power in wire).
The red wire coming out of the sensor is currently connected to the black wire coming out of the ballast. Remove the red wire, and then connect the black wire coming out of the ballast to the black power in wire.
Reattach wire nuts (there were 5 originally, now you only need 4).
Refer to the wiring diagram!
WIRE THE SOCKET
The socket on this particular light had some metal wiring connectors that stuck up and made it impossible to attach to the electrical plate without some modification (sorry no photo). Just pull the black and white wires off of the connectors, and cut the connectors down flush with socket base with diagonal pliers. Now loosen the connectors (screws inside the socket), slip the wires under them and tighten them back down. Please use some plastic electrical tape on the end of the socket to prevent any chance of the metal from the connectors making contact with the electrical box cover plate.
Secure the cord in the electrical box with a romex cable connector and wire it to the socket: black to black, white to white, secure with wire nuts. Some electrical boxes have a green screw inside to fasten ground wires, use that if yours has one, otherwise fasten the green ground wire to the box using one of the cover plate screws when you tighten the cover plate.
WIRE THE REMOTE BALLAST
Hopefully you can see the wiring clearly in the photo, but if not, refer to the wiring diagram for details.
Youre going to have to cut some holes in the Radio Shack project box for the power cords and some bolts to hold the ballast, ignitor and ground wires down.
I used a short length of metal (plumbing department) to secure the ballast. The ignitor had a notch that made it easy to bolt down. The ground wires from both electrical cords are screwed to the base of the box.
Cut a short length off the socket (female) end of the extension cord and wire it appropriately (again - see diagram). Wire the remaining electrical cord, including the grounded male plug to the other end of the box.
Use a tie wrap to bundle up the wires in the box and try to keep them away from the ballast, which will heat up during use.
TEST IT!
If you've done everything right, it should light.
Now, build a reflector and youve got a nice little custom grow light.
Safety Warnings:
Always wire the male plug to the bulb socket and the female receptacle to the ballast to avoid possible electrocution! Always use an all metal project box which already has ventilation cooling slots, or if your project box has none, please cut adequate cooling slots, or drill several vent holes in the ballast enclosure (project box) to allow the heat to escape the box. Not adding the cooling slots or holes, could result in failure of the insulation and/or the transformer. Also, please be sure the enclosure is located in a well ventilated area to aid cooling.
..................................................
is it mH or MV check out the light and lighting coverage in the grow faxgood luck ...rob
thx for the post.. unfortunatly that type of light is diferent, the one i have is one from the electric company that they put on light poll in the back yard. not the ones from lows or home depot.. this one is 1000w i believe.
ThePresident
Member
bump!!@!!!!!!!
captain insaneo
Well-Known Member
it works the same way guy. the only difference would be the wattage and the input voltage other than that it is the same system the parts only look different. If you cant follow that you REALLY shouldn't be messing with it.
the thing on the top with the twist lock is the light sensor and it is almost certainly a 250 watt hps light as that is the standard for a pole light. you only need the transformer, ignitor, socket, and bulb.
at one point in time the transformer would have had the wattage and voltage written on it but it is old and rusted so good luck.
best case scenario you get a cheap working light. worst case scenario you die from electrocution. or just cause a fire and the fire department comes and they find your grow. Then enjoy jail/ probation.
just buy one from here http://www.insidesun.com/index.php
or go take it to an electrician and pay them $20 to put a cord on it.
the thing on the top with the twist lock is the light sensor and it is almost certainly a 250 watt hps light as that is the standard for a pole light. you only need the transformer, ignitor, socket, and bulb.
at one point in time the transformer would have had the wattage and voltage written on it but it is old and rusted so good luck.
best case scenario you get a cheap working light. worst case scenario you die from electrocution. or just cause a fire and the fire department comes and they find your grow. Then enjoy jail/ probation.
just buy one from here http://www.insidesun.com/index.php
or go take it to an electrician and pay them $20 to put a cord on it.
TheGanjaGuru
Member
I don't know, that light looks pretty safe, I think I feel pretty confident running it inside my house in a confined area...Seriously, you should just stick to using CFls and clamp lights.