Unless your rootball collapses on you during transplant I wouldn't worry about it causing stress.
Alright thanks Dave and UB for the quick answer.
Unless your rootball collapses on you during transplant I wouldn't worry about it causing stress.
I use organics and tweak with off the shelf fertilizers like Peters, Schultz, commercial stuff too I buy in bulk.so uncle ben do you give any nutes to your plants at any stage, if so what food or nutes do you use!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stressing definitely won't increase your yields. I would say just do what you plan on doing by keeping your lights off and then turn them on for 1 hour after the 48 hours of darkness. THC is at its highest potency in the morning. If your growing white widow, it should be pushing out enough crystals already. Don't harm your plant.Hy there UB..
so, im on my 7 weeks of bloom(white widow) and everything is going smooth...first indoor by the way..
my question is, should i start to stress them out a lil bit at the end of bloom, on the final week(im thinking 10 weeks should be enough)?
By a lil stress i mean that i will shake the stems a little and kick the pots easily and turning the light off for 24 to 48 hours..i want to do it because i have read that stressing them at the final week should increase the resin production and slightly increase the yield..so i ask, is this true and have you ever done any of these methods..?
My guess is if they were almost ready to harvest, then they probably won't produce much more resin glands. I don't know this for a fact but I would bet it wouldn't push out much more. Cannabis is an annual plant and has a life cycle. In nature the female plant would be seeded and would die after its ripe, dropping all its seeds to further reproduce its genes. So I don't have facts behind whether they will actually produce more crystals but I hope any of that helped? Sorry to hear about the el nino though. You were so close!Thanks for sharing ur knowledge!! I have a question, I was about two weeks away from choppin down an outdoor sweet tooth, when FLA got hit hard with a late EL Nino 48 Rain system....Cold rain too!! I had already flushed. So i guess my question is How long should i leave them to try and grow some of those trics. back and do I need to Fertilize again and re flush before harvest. Thanks in advance. Best of luck to your future grows!!!
Thanks, and glad it's working!Benny Boy i must say ur a legend,
iv used your topping guidance since i started growing and it works great,
iv also reported this thread to the mods so they can allow a re-editing feature in order for you to share more of your knowledge
Thanx as always
Monkz.
No, it won't produce smaller flowers if that is what the plant requires. What makes you think you'll get higher yields with a high K or P "bloom" food? Because "Jesus told me so!" You need to think outside of the box. I'm not sure you understand what produces those flowers. It's not your use of your favorite bloom food, the one with the fancy label and all the hype that goes with it, it is the health and abundance of the leaves in the end that DICTATES your yields. Come on guys, get with the (cultural) program and move away from the forum paradigms.Thanks UB for your knowledge! My only question regards to applying nutes in flowering. You stated that if its necessary to keep your leaves green, give them a 9-3-6. Won't your plants produce smaller flowers if your giving that much nitrogen in flowering? Or will it only do that when your adding N once the leaves are already green enough?
Because it's water that is a carrier for salts and moisture uptake. This is why some feel that hydro is faster, because most soil growers have not mastered their watering technique. When you let your soil dry out between waterings, you compromise important support functions.K.I.S.S
I love this, its simple yet full of gems.
Some of the best info Ive read on this site in a while.
UB, can you please elaborate on why we need to keep our soil moist in organic grows.
No, other than "read your plants". If you have a light meter that registers to 10K footcandles, then use it as a tool, not necessarily as a absolute determiner, of light. Average of 6,000 f.c. at plant tops is a good start, but it ALL depends on the other factors. Your goal is to learn this balance for optimum growth. Keep in mind, you're growing a flowering foliage plant, a weed. Don't push it. Keep it green and healthy.My first questions refer to light intensity: Do you have a recommendation of a good reference that would answer these basic questions?
Yep, plants need a rest.*Btw, ever since I switched from 24/0 to 20/4, the plants indeed, seem to be 'happier'.
Piece of pie, terminating the spinout action is what you're trying to acheive.When discussing your up-canning method, I just want to clarify whether you mean cutting into the soil .5" as if it were a 'piece of pie', for lack of a better analogy (ie, 'freeing up the roots')... Or if you mean, actually shaving a .5" circumference around the outer edge of the entire side soil layer after removing from the pot (ie, shortening the roots).
I don't worry about pH. Using organic acids is not wise compared to using inorganic. Microbes will soon break down acetic or citric, which makes them very short lived. If you have to drop your pH, buy sulfuric acid from an auto supply store or phosphoric acid from a brew supply store.Last, I remember your post on pH, so I have an inclination of how you feel about it. However, I have to ask, do you pH your water? Nutrients? If so, what do you use to increase/decrease your pH? Can you use acetic acid (specifically white distilled vinegar) to decrease? Can you use a sodium bicarbonate solution (baking soda) to increase?... Or do these leave unwanted byproducts. Thanks, man.
Thank you.
Yep. It may have had some rudy in its lineage. But Dave's got a good point, males are the first to show sex, females are late to be receptive.I think the male may have just been an autoflower strain?
UB,I don't worry about pH. Using organic acids is not wise compared to using inorganic. Microbes will soon break down acetic or citric, which makes them very short lived. If you have to drop your pH, buy sulfuric acid from an auto supply store or phosphoric acid from a brew supply store.
Use potassium bicarbonate to increase, NEVER a sodium salt.
UB
I think something else has been nipping at your butt, like using the all prevailing high K foods.UB,
I saw that you mentioned you don't worry about pH. What's your reasoning on this? I thought pH was huge when it came to watering your plants since different nutes are more available at different measures.
I didn't pH my water for a while but it came up to bite me in the ass later.
A couple pics as well:I think something else has been nipping at your butt, like using the all prevailing high K foods.
Cannabis is quite pH tolerant and as I've said a million times before, when a grower fucks his plants up, to save face, act kewl, whatever........the first thing he does is blame pH when in fact it's something else. Second one is the mantra that it needs Mg, in spite of the inherent availability.
Soil is a powerful buffer regarding the application of pH adjusted water, you just aint gonna change it long term unless you use peat moss, lime, ashes, etc. and most potting soils land in a pH range perfect for cannabis, around 6.5. For water culture pH may be more critical, but I know of very few water sources where the pH of the water is so wacked out it needs adjustment regarding elemental uptake.
So are you saying these pH charts are practically bogus then? I've always thought you had to be in the right range to get the best results. My tap water's pH is about 7.5 to 8.0 and when I put all my nutes in, it was around 5.0. I was using a DWC system.I think something else has been nipping at your butt, like using the all prevailing high K foods.
Cannabis is quite pH tolerant and as I've said a million times before, when a grower fucks his plants up, to save face, act kewl, whatever........the first thing he does is blame pH when in fact it's something else. Second one is the mantra that it needs Mg, in spite of the inherent availability.
Soil is a powerful buffer regarding the application of pH adjusted water, you just aint gonna change it long term unless you use peat moss, lime, ashes, etc. and most potting soils land in a pH range perfect for cannabis, around 6.5. For water culture pH may be more critical, but I know of very few water sources where the pH of the water is so wacked out it needs adjustment regarding elemental uptake.
Don't throw out that chart just yet.So are you saying these pH charts are practically bogus then? I've always thought you had to be in the right range to get the best results. My tap water's pH is about 7.5 to 8.0 and when I put all my nutes in, it was around 5.0. I was using a DWC system.