HELP what is the correct ph and ppm for hydro

scooby83

Well-Known Member
just done a check on mine for the first time
ec was 3.4
ppm was over 2500
ph is 6.12

i know the ppm should not go over 1500 and ec 2.2

is this why my plants lookin so droopy
 

superdave5

Active Member
Your ppm was over 2500??? Wow, brotha its been a minute since Ive done hydro but your frying the shit out of your plants 2500 is uneccessary. Drop your ph to 5.6-5.8 and back off the ppm as well. Thats too much IMO
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
check for root rot thats way too high

btw ec and ppm are the same thing
Nah dude, EC and ppm are related, but not the same (he's obviously using a .7 conversion, whereas most use a .5 these days).

EC requires no conversion and is universal.

As far as your pH goes, I'd drop it to ~5.7 (if using anything but DWC), and about 5.4 if using DWC.

Your main concern, at this point, should be getting your temps down - 100F is fucking brutal, cuz.
 

dbo24242

New Member
Nah dude, EC and ppm are related, but not the same (he's obviously using a .7 conversion, whereas most use a .5 these days).

EC requires no conversion and is universal.

As far as your pH goes, I'd drop it to ~5.7 (if using anything but DWC), and about 5.4 if using DWC.

Your main concern, at this point, should be getting your temps down - 100F is fucking brutal, cuz.

a conversion factor doesn't make it that they are different, they are still the same. I don't see why you disagree with the truth. They measure the same thing. and yes he is using the hanna conversion factor.
parts per million is simply a function of electrical conductivity. you only need one of them, and EC is more reliable.

.5 is the typical one so you should change your meter to .5 conversion or just refer to the EC many growers on here can't tell what is what with the conversions so best of luck :)

at .5 your EC3.4 would be 1700ppm.
it should @ .5 be 1100ppm at EC 2.2
 

snutter

Well-Known Member
Nah dude, EC and ppm are related, but not the same (he's obviously using a .7 conversion, whereas most use a .5 these days).

EC requires no conversion and is universal.

As far as your pH goes, I'd drop it to ~5.7 (if using anything but DWC), and about 5.4 if using DWC.

Your main concern, at this point, should be getting your temps down - 100F is fucking brutal, cuz.
Bob has the right of it. Get your pH down to what he said, and definitely get those temps down. Just fixing these two things will help your grow tremendously. Get the ppm under control too and you'll be golden!!! :-) Good luck to you, brutha.
 

fatman7574

New Member
Are you using tap water to mix your nutrients? If so what is the TDS or EC of your tap water. If you are using tap water and then adding the recommended amounts of nutrients and you have hard water then your EC and TDS will be high.

While high reservoir temp for DWC, standard NTF or any system where your roots are laying or submerged in water is important due to the need of mainting high DO, it really does not matter a whole lot with a proper aero or a good well draining hydro system where the roots get over 99% of their oxygen from the surrounding air.

However with average/standard NTF systems and aero systems in tubes (especially small ones) there are always roots lying in low DO water that and anerobic conditions that lead to root rot develop. Anerobic conditions mean anoxic (oxygen free) conditions. This nearly always develops within theroot mass laying in the bootom of the tubes and cahnnels with aero tubes and standard NTF systems. The optimal temperature ranges for typical anerobic bacteria are about 85 to 100 degrees (mesophilic range), however they perform and grow at any temperature above freezing and up to about 120 to 135 F (thermophilic range). The problems lie in that oxygen does not diffuse well and water does not flow well through thickly bunched up root masses laying in the bottom of tubes. So even if it was possible to get plenty of oxygen into the water the bunched up roots wil not get the DO as most of the water just runs over the top of the roots not through them.
 

streetlegal

Well-Known Member
Are you using tap water to mix your nutrients? If so what is the TDS or EC of your tap water. If you are using tap water and then adding the recommended amounts of nutrients and you have hard water then your EC and TDS will be high.

While high reservoir temp for DWC, standard NTF or any system where your roots are laying or submerged in water is important due to the need of mainting high DO, it really does not matter a whole lot with a proper aero or a good well draining hydro system where the roots get over 99% of their oxygen from the surrounding air.

However with average/standard NTF systems and aero systems in tubes (especially small ones) there are always roots lying in low DO water that and anerobic conditions that lead to root rot develop. Anerobic conditions mean anoxic (oxygen free) conditions. This nearly always develops within theroot mass laying in the bootom of the tubes and cahnnels with aero tubes and standard NTF systems. The optimal temperature ranges for typical anerobic bacteria are about 85 to 100 degrees (mesophilic range), however they perform and grow at any temperature above freezing and up to about 120 to 135 F (thermophilic range). The problems lie in that oxygen does not diffuse well and water does not flow well through thickly bunched up root masses laying in the bottom of tubes. So even if it was possible to get plenty of oxygen into the water the bunched up roots wil not get the DO as most of the water just runs over the top of the roots not through them.
So wot sort of max temp can u have with plants grown aero or well draining hydge?
 

fatman7574

New Member
The same temps experienced by the rest of the plant. Other than that you just have to prevent any areas of your system from becoming anoxic.
 
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