Bubbleponics

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dutchmastr

Active Member
I am currently new at this whole growing scene and want to make sure i focus on the most important things. Me and my friend built our own bubbleponics system with foamcor, a 12 gallon storage bin, airstones, 150 watt flourescent fan (with venitaltion) and plenty of nutrients. we have the grow room then the budding room. Our budding room is 22"/25"/41". What is maximum plants i can fit for optimum growth and how important is pH. Also i need a cheap lighting system for the grow room and a way to get CO2 involved. Any suggestions.
 
Budsworth

Budsworth

Well-Known Member
PH is VERY important. If its off one way or other it will cause nutrient lock, where the plant will not uptake nutrients. Keep it about 5.5 to 6.5 for best results.
 
bubblerking

bubblerking

Well-Known Member
Budsworth said:
PH is VERY important. If its off one way or other it will cause nutrient lock, where the plant will not uptake nutrients. Keep it about 5.5 to 6.5 for best results.
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5.2 to 5.8 is what you want anything higher is not good and can cause root rot
 
country cowfreak

country cowfreak

Well-Known Member
I have been hearing lot about T5 bulbs you may want to give them a try. Garden Known has also had a lot of luck with CFL bulbs So you may want to put a post in to him.
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
bubblerking said:
5.2 to 5.8 is what you want anything higher is not good and can cause root rot
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surely you mean it can cause lock-out? Which it doesn't, you're fine in DWC up to 6.2... although I'm not saying this is good... it is doable. The plants will absorb nutrients better in the 5.2-5.8 range. In fact, there is evidennce now to suggest that even 5.8 might be too high, and out of the optimum range to uptake nutrients.

In DWC your roots will rot if you allow light onto them, or the res' is too low... or too warm. Plants prefer a colder res, as this helps in the uptake of nutrients too. in fact the temp' of the res is more important than the temp' around the plant...
 
Schmidty

Schmidty

Asshole Patrol
Here's the money shot for grow lights! :-) Theyre actually really inexpensive for a 5 pack, which supposedly equals a 400w HPS. Another benefit is that they have extremely low heat output.

HTG Supply - LED Lights


They're new, and I would love to see someone take a stab at a grow op with them.
 
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bmxes44

Active Member
I'm dutchmastr partner in crimw has anyone trien these new LED's because if there legitn we'd rathe get thm then the HID's(lower the elelctricity bill) Anyobe thry them yet???
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
bmxes44 said:
I'm dutchmastr partner in crimw has anyone trien these new LED's because if there legitn we'd rathe get thm then the HID's(lower the elelctricity bill) Anyobe thry them yet???
Click to expand...

I've put a fair bit of thought into light... and I can tell you (as far as my logic tells me) that light spectrum is not the only important aspect to growing weed, but also light intensity. The more intense the light the more potent your plant will be.

LED's are very similar to fluoro's in that they put out very little intensity. You might get it to grow, might even one day pull a decent yield, but it'll never be as potent as the same plant grown under a HID.:mrgreen:
 
Kant

Kant

Well-Known Member
courtesy of skunkushhybrid ^^^^ here's a good co2 method https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=286

but for lights it doesn't get any better than HID's. there's two basic HID's, MH (metal halide) and HPS (high pressure sodium). ideally you'd want both. MH is a primarily blue spectrum light which is better for vegging and HPS is a primarily red spectrum light which is better for flowering. the reason for that is because the plants can use the light more efficiently in their respective stages of life. However you can use just one of those light all the way through and still get a really good yield. If you do decide to get just one of them get a HPS. If you're like most indoor growers you'll be spending more time in flowering than vegging so the HPS will be more effective.
 
jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
skunkushybrid said:
surely you mean it can cause lock-out? Which it doesn't, you're fine in DWC up to 6.2... although I'm not saying this is good... it is doable. The plants will absorb nutrients better in the 5.2-5.8 range. In fact, there is evidennce now to suggest that even 5.8 might be too high, and out of the optimum range to uptake nutrients.

In DWC your roots will rot if you allow light onto them, or the res' is too low... or too warm. Plants prefer a colder res, as this helps in the uptake of nutrients too. in fact the temp' of the res is more important than the temp' around the plant...
Click to expand...

Based on comments above, what do you guys think about this chart (see link below)? It appears to me that if you drop below 5.5, you're going to start to lock out nitrogen and definitely lock out phosphorus and magnesium?? (To be clear, I'm a relative newb though and trying to learn all I can from you guys, the maestros!)

http://www.gardenscure.com/420/attachments/hydroponics/128649d1116061394-ph-level-nutrient_chart.gif
 
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dutchmastr

Active Member
i have pictures coming soon to show you guys our set-up. But we have a problem now and the plant leaves are turning yellow. I got pH meters and the pH was extremely high this morning so we got pH decreaser and jsut put it in. Anyone have an idea how to cure these plants quick??
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
jcommerce said:
Based on comments above, what do you guys think about this chart (see link below)? It appears to me that if you drop below 5.5, you're going to start to lock out nitrogen and definitely lock out phosphorus and magnesium?? (To be clear, I'm a relative newb though and trying to learn all I can from you guys, the maestros!)

http://www.gardenscure.com/420/attachments/hydroponics/128649d1116061394-ph-level-nutrient_chart.gif
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How old is that chart? I have read something different very recently. I did say, new evidence to suggest... although my plants are quite happy even up to 6.0 in coc coir...
 
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dutchmastr

Active Member
I need help quick. My plant is truning yellow but not dying yet. And the new leaves are coming as if the plant is completely healthy. How ever the first set of leaves is getting yellower every day but no signs of dying. I fixed my pH problem and lowered the level and i havent seen any improvement. Anyone have any solutions i can try
 
Gygax1974

Gygax1974

Just some idiot
skunkushybrid said:
surely you mean it can cause lock-out? Which it doesn't, you're fine in DWC up to 6.2... although I'm not saying this is good... it is doable. The plants will absorb nutrients better in the 5.2-5.8 range. In fact, there is evidennce now to suggest that even 5.8 might be too high, and out of the optimum range to uptake nutrients.

In DWC your roots will rot if you allow light onto them, or the res' is too low... or too warm. Plants prefer a colder res, as this helps in the uptake of nutrients too. in fact the temp' of the res is more important than the temp' around the plant...
Click to expand...
Hey skunk, I have a question for you, I was always under the impression that when you flower you want to bring the pH up to uptake P and K better, is this wrong?
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
I've never come across that before... and the science behind correct ph levels and optimum uptake of nutrients has not been clearly defined, so I couldn't say for sure. Unless I took a degree maybe, and got myself a lab. lol.

I'd say though that plants will uptake nutrients at a specific level of ph, and that there should be no need to change this during flower...

Is there any evidence of changes in acidity levels of soil during the bloom period in an outdoor grow with nature doing all the work?
 
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