Oaksterdam t-5 veg 600w hps flower
- Thread starter Drella
- Start date
tom__420
Well-Known Member
Huh...? I may be high but that doesn't make sense haha
You talking about the picture I just posted?
d.c. beard
Well-Known Member
I'm probably wrong, but I don't think that looks like mites...I'm thinking powdery mildew? If it's mites then you should be able to see a real thin webbing in between the leaf fingers right where they grow out of the petiole. You should also basically be able to see them move very slowly across the leaves.
If it's mites then yes get neem oil, mix with warm water, and add 1 teaspoon of mild dish detergent to help the mixture stick to the leaves. Spray everywhere, especially under the leaves.
But check this out first...
"
Recognizing Powdery Mildew
It appears in several ways. The most common is a gray-white powdery dusting on the leaf surfaces. The actual color ranges from a white to brownish-white (almost a tan color) and there are few other problems that appear to be similar in the garden. If you see this dusting, it is almost 100% sure you have powdery mildew.
The real tipoff to this problem is when your young leaves start to curl and twist as they develop and do not fully unfurl. Roses twist the entire new shoot. Other plants simply twist the leaves.
Older leaves are pretty much immune to this twisting and usually don’t show any other signs other than a dusting or small spots where the outbreak is severe. They will also brown off once the mildew has developed."
There are different sprays for powdery mildew...
"
Sulphur sprays are quite effective at stopping the spread of powdery mildew. Remember that they do knock out beneficial soil fungi as well so do only spray to runoff. You can find sulphur in almost any garden shop.
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is recommended by many gardeners and when it is mixed at the rate of between 2 and 10 g per litre of water (add a small dash of liquid soap as a wetting agent). (1 teaspoon to a quart of water) I’ve seen research that up to 20g / litre of water has worked well with no burning.
And to just to make your day, it has also been reported (I’ve never used this myself) that urine when diluted at 1 part urine to 4 parts water is an effective powdery mildew control. There’s another reason to take a seventh inning stretch.
Milk is another very effective spray for powdery mildew. Mix the milk at a ratio of one part of milk to nine parts of water and spray weekly. Do NOT go higher than 3 milk to 9 water or you’ll attract other fungus problems that want to feed on the milk. Skim milk works well as it contains no fat to turn rancid (and attract other problems that like the smell of rotting fats.)
There are also products on the garden center shelves featuring jojoba oil and neem oil. I can’t speak to these but some gardeners swear by their effectivness for controlling powdery mildew."
If it's mites then yes get neem oil, mix with warm water, and add 1 teaspoon of mild dish detergent to help the mixture stick to the leaves. Spray everywhere, especially under the leaves.
But check this out first...
"
Recognizing Powdery Mildew
It appears in several ways. The most common is a gray-white powdery dusting on the leaf surfaces. The actual color ranges from a white to brownish-white (almost a tan color) and there are few other problems that appear to be similar in the garden. If you see this dusting, it is almost 100% sure you have powdery mildew.
The real tipoff to this problem is when your young leaves start to curl and twist as they develop and do not fully unfurl. Roses twist the entire new shoot. Other plants simply twist the leaves.
Older leaves are pretty much immune to this twisting and usually don’t show any other signs other than a dusting or small spots where the outbreak is severe. They will also brown off once the mildew has developed."
There are different sprays for powdery mildew...
"
Sulphur sprays are quite effective at stopping the spread of powdery mildew. Remember that they do knock out beneficial soil fungi as well so do only spray to runoff. You can find sulphur in almost any garden shop.
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is recommended by many gardeners and when it is mixed at the rate of between 2 and 10 g per litre of water (add a small dash of liquid soap as a wetting agent). (1 teaspoon to a quart of water) I’ve seen research that up to 20g / litre of water has worked well with no burning.
And to just to make your day, it has also been reported (I’ve never used this myself) that urine when diluted at 1 part urine to 4 parts water is an effective powdery mildew control. There’s another reason to take a seventh inning stretch.
Milk is another very effective spray for powdery mildew. Mix the milk at a ratio of one part of milk to nine parts of water and spray weekly. Do NOT go higher than 3 milk to 9 water or you’ll attract other fungus problems that want to feed on the milk. Skim milk works well as it contains no fat to turn rancid (and attract other problems that like the smell of rotting fats.)
There are also products on the garden center shelves featuring jojoba oil and neem oil. I can’t speak to these but some gardeners swear by their effectivness for controlling powdery mildew."
Drella
Well-Known Member
the only thing is, i heard plants don't like neem oil. the hydro shop guy said avoid neem oil, try a more natural approach first. don't get me wrong, if isolate her, and the pods hatch, neem oil time for sure!
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
not pests or PM...
you revegged the plant...... degraded trichs
This is Your picture.....
you revegged the plant...... degraded trichs
This is Your picture.....
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Drella
Well-Known Member
thanks dc, defn helpful, many ways to go by it. i guess im gonna isolate her and see if it gets worse first. the white dots have been there since the beginning. ill keep you guys posted. but there is new growth, no leaves dying off yet. great advice man!
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
just keepin it real.......
Drella
Well-Known Member
great pic tom, yeah it hasn't congregated and concentrated like that yet. it feels like it's what i got though. too late to buy stuff now, xmas eve and all. thanks for the help, hope santa dumps an extra kiefy nug in all your guys stalkings this christmas. ill defn have to hit up the hydro store on tues for the neem oil.
There is a leaf w/ powdery mildew...
If he has it than it must have started minutes before taking the pics haha that shit usually spreads pretty quick
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
not pests or PM...
you revegged the plant...... degraded trichs
This is Your picture.....
not sure you saw this......
Drella
Well-Known Member
THE LOADED DRAGOOOOOON! you are the product of someone who reeeeally wants to know their shit. that's what im talking about man! i was thinking they were trichs, and this would explain it's slowed, but steady growth. if it was mildew then it would've spread by now maybe? week 3 and all.
plus over all, these clones came from a very trusted source. this is from the guy that told me to always treat my clones in immunox plus, (you dip the clone in this solution before you transplant it, find it at lowes, or home depot! prevents mites and pm), so it would be weird if mites or mildew showed up in these.
the facts are i went through a veg in this closet before, no mites or pm. this doesn't mean of course that the closet is mite/pm proof. but LD, what your saying makes sense. thanks everyone, defn putting me in a giving holiday mood!
Drella
Well-Known Member
oh and i did see it, thanks brother. i knew that traditionally revegged clones take longer to grow, but i didn't know they wiil show degraded trichs on new growth. makes sense, because on a couple of other clones, they also already came with preflowers, and now are growing new preflower sites! you burn, i mean, learn something new every day!
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
I have revegged plenty of plants.... always fun to watch the leaves grow, the trichs being spread farther apart, their heads fall off, the bases remain intact for quite some time, and for up to about a month after the revegetative period being re initiated, trichs will still be partialy produced, but will never reach maturity. PM relies on climatic conditions to sustain itself, and once sustained (in a matter of hours) it will spread Extremely quickly, provided the climatic conditions remain supportive.
For example, PM typically starts during lights out, approximately 2-2 1/2 hr after lights out, in moderate temps, and with higher RH % (55-75% for example) and with low air flow (always keepin those fans on at night
), it will establish itself by the time lights are on, and harbor its own climate to spread itself as far as possible (this is when you can battle it, at the onset) after a couple of days unnoticed, it will reek havoc on your garden (provided those same climatic conditions apply).
Preventative measures always pay in this world.
For example, PM typically starts during lights out, approximately 2-2 1/2 hr after lights out, in moderate temps, and with higher RH % (55-75% for example) and with low air flow (always keepin those fans on at night
), it will establish itself by the time lights are on, and harbor its own climate to spread itself as far as possible (this is when you can battle it, at the onset) after a couple of days unnoticed, it will reek havoc on your garden (provided those same climatic conditions apply). Preventative measures always pay in this world.
Drella
Well-Known Member
loaded, with some even more great advice, these ladies are in a 24/0, so no dark time. another thing i pride myself in is my air circ. good exhaust is more important than intake. both of mine are good. the main stalks are strong, my ladies are fighters! thanks loaded, you could almost right a book with all of the knowledge you guys throw my way, i really appreciate it. i haven't hit these trials yet, but man am i prepaired!