Nute burn? +rep for opinions

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
they go off the plants when they don't need to eat.
in nature they don't have water bowls.

they don't need to dig nothing, daw should be enough for thoes little creatures.
Daw? If you mean dew, there is none because they're an indoor grow. That's why I've been spraying the plants lightly.

They have a hiding spot between the wall and these permanent shelves. To get them out so I can put them back on the plants I just spray the wall above them and they come out to drink. That's why I've been spraying the plants, after I saw them do that the first time I figured that would be the best way to get them water. Should I just spray the dirt?
 

Night Claptoman

Well-Known Member
I ment dew. My English isn't all that good. Unfortunatly.

There are droplets on the leaves of a well functioning indoor grow.
If its from humidity changes while getting the lights on or from plants raspiration.

If you have 2 leaves that touch eachother for a while, pick the top one and you will see droplets on the bottom one. The lady bugs probably know that.


Spraying the plants can cause a lot of problems if haven't done right.
If light in on it can act as a magnifying glass and burn the leaves.
If the plant is flowering it can cause mold.
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
I ment dew. My English isn't all that good. Unfortunatly.

There are droplets on the leaves of a well functioning indoor grow.
If its from humidity changes while getting the lights on or from plants raspiration.

If you have 2 leaves that touch eachother for a while, pick the top one and you will see droplets on the bottom one. The lady bugs probably know that.


Spraying the plants can cause a lot of problems if haven't done right.
If light in on it can act as a magnifying glass and burn the leaves.
If the plant is flowering it can cause mold.
That's ok, I'm not that good with spelling either, and I was born here. lol

We have low humidity here, with the humidifier it's still only between 30% & 40%. And I have my lights on a 24/0 schedule (still vegging) so I guess that's why I don't see any dew. And I never noticed moist leaves even when they're touching. So I have to figure out another way to get them water.

When I bought them there was a wet cotton ball hanging from the lid and the lady bugs were all over it, that's why I figured the bowl would work. But so far no good.

I know about the light burning the plants, but to keep the temp down to 68 (for the next few days) I only have 1 light on (400w) and it's hung 28" above the tops of the plant. So it hasn't been burning them so far.

In a few days when I turn the other light on and lower them back to about 12" above the tops of the plants, I will have to figure something else out. Maybe if I spray the mylar they'll go there to get a drink. I haven't really figured it out though.
 

Night Claptoman

Well-Known Member
if you really need to spray something - spray the floor.
when you buy the ladybugs they come with something that is moist because they are kept from hatching by placing their eggs in a frozen 0% humidity enviroment.

I have heat issues all the time and my best purchase was a cool tube. altough I bought a 5" one that doesn't match my vent which is 6" (and 560 m3\h)so i'm thinking of replacing it.
Its around 20°C outside at noon (its the middle of winter) and its only up to 25°C around 10" from the light. its mainly radiant heat. Its really not hot at all over the light.
I keep the buds up to 3" from the light. I get light bleaching before I get any burns. I use a 400W green power by philips.


Another improtant point is to have the exhaust sucking air from over the light as heat goes up and the intake sucking air from as low as possible.
I also keep a 16" fan on the floor pulling air up. It really helps cooling things down and prevent any mold issues.
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
I have Mylar on the floor too, so I guess spraying the mylar is the best bet.

When I bought the lady bugs they came in a pint container the shape of an pint of ice cream with a little hole cut in the top and a piece of screen over the hole. They came as lady bugs though, not eggs. And there were no eggs in the container. So I'm not sure what you mean about the eggs.

If you're cool tube has a lip for the duct to attatch onto, and if you have flexible duct, then you don't have to replace the duct. Just buy two 3" clamps, open both of them, and fit them together like one big clamp. Putting the two clamps together will let you tighten it enough to squeeze the 6" duct onto a 5" lip. I had the same problem with my portable AC lines, the're 4.75" and there's no duct made to that size. And I couldn't find a 5" duct, so I used 6" duct and figured out that trick with the clamps to make it work. Plus it's a little easier to push air through a 6" duct than a 5" duct.

You can avoid bleaching by using a light mover or increasing the dark period and shortening the light perioc. I think 16/8 is as much dark as you can give them during veg.

In my room I needed an A/C because of the hi level of heat caused by some very cheap hoods. If I new then what I know now, I would have bought one 1,000w light with a good hood instead of three 400w lights with cheap hoods. I bought a portable A/C because I use an inside closet. The portable A/C has two ducts coming off of it, one for intake and one for exhaust. So this is what I use for exhaust. I don't have any way to run a 2nd exhaust or intake. There just isn't enough room.

I do have 2 fans in the room though. An oscillating fan that blows on the plants, and a floor fan that's in front of the portable A/C pointing straight up to blow the cold air up. There's no way to change where the exhausts takes air from though.
 

Night Claptoman

Well-Known Member
Probably the eggs hatched...

I have a flexible ducting and I just remove the wire from it and use either ziplocks or ducting tape. The problem is that it restricts air flow. I use around 7 meters of ducting and a carbon filter. Thats enough load on the vent anyway.

i don't mind the minor bleaching, if it accures. I just get the bud a bit lower. I don't have any access, money or need for light movers. I grow in a semi-colloseum setup which seems much more effective in my conditions.
I don't have any issues in veg - I veg with cooltubed CFL and I just let the plants go over it.
Point is - my lights are cool enough not to burn the plants in any situation.

Using an AC is another story. However, cooltubing your lights will help a LOT.
You will waste a lot less energy on cooling and you will be able to get the buds closer. The closer they get the more light they get. They love light.
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Probably the eggs hatched...

I have a flexible ducting and I just remove the wire from it and use either ziplocks or ducting tape. The problem is that it restricts air flow. I use around 7 meters of ducting and a carbon filter. Thats enough load on the vent anyway.

i don't mind the minor bleaching, if it accures. I just get the bud a bit lower. I don't have any access, money or need for light movers. I grow in a semi-colloseum setup which seems much more effective in my conditions.
I don't have any issues in veg - I veg with cooltubed CFL and I just let the plants go over it.
Point is - my lights are cool enough not to burn the plants in any situation.

Using an AC is another story. However, cooltubing your lights will help a LOT.
You will waste a lot less energy on cooling and you will be able to get the buds closer. The closer they get the more light they get. They love light.
I didn't find out about cool tubes till after I bought my lights. I'll have to wait for this harvest to have the cash to upgrade. But that's the first thing I plan on upgrading, the hoods.
 
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