Mg defiency?

I

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
so this is starting to show up on all of my new cuttings. I topped them last week, but this started just a few days before I topped. It's only on the lower leaves, but it's slowly starting to spread up

Soil............ : Happy Frog
CFL............ : 27w x4
Light Cycle.. : 20/4

this is Magnesium deficiency, correct?



 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Imaulle said:
so this is starting to show up on all of my new cuttings. I topped them last week, but this started just a few days before I topped. It's only on the lower leaves, but it's slowly starting to spread up

Soil............ : Happy Frog
CFL............ : 27w x4
Light Cycle.. : 20/4

this is Magnesium deficiency, correct?
Click to expand...
Leaves are chlorotic most likely induced by your food. Do you have a source of Mg? What are the micros the plant is getting?
 
I

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
and here is the soil, though I'm not sure if this is helpful because I have no idea what any of this stuff even is? lol

 
U

unity

Well-Known Member
looks like a calcium def.
I would foliar feed them until you straighten your root zone out :)

Good luck!
 
U

unity

Well-Known Member
Imaulle said:
okay noob question, what exactly should I foliar feed them with?
Click to expand...
I use Magic Green by House & Garden, works great!
Keep in mind though that it is not the solution to your problem. Something is up with your soil or what you are feeding or the ph at which you are feeding. You will need a soil guy to help you out there, I'm Hydro ;)
The foliar feeding will supply the plants with what they need until you straighten the root system out.

Unity
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
We don't know what your soil's nutritional value is, not entirely. GH is made for hydro, you should be using a food that is designed for soil. That's too much Ca derived from both the soil and the GH, not near enough N for good foliar production, and certainly very light on the micros. All of this is causing your chlorosis and will induce stunting, slow growth.

I'd switch to a 30-10-10, Schultz or Peter's brand. Acid forming Azalea food for indoor plants would work well. It's usually a 21-7-7 with an excellent blend of chelated micros. This will quickly green up the plant, eliminate the chlorosis, and get you really ramped up on leaf production.

UB
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Imaulle said:
thanks UB!

would the Peter's 30-10-10 be better then this ??
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Right now, yes, or I wouldn't have recommended what I did. I'll try to explain, but you need to listen to me, I know what I'm doing and ask certain questions so I can get to where we need to go. Why would you use a food designed for the flowering stage? You want to promote leaves now, alot of them.

I've used Foliage Pro for years, it's excellent, but it is also a food mainly used for hydro. It contains alot of Ca, and you're rich in Ca with your soil (oyster and dolomite) and such. An excess of Ca will induce a Mg deficiency which shows up as a chlorotic condition on the lower leaves. http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

UB
 
I

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
so after just one feeding with Jack's Classic 30-10-10 I can already notice a huge difference!

you rock UB !!!!!!! much respect
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Imaulle said:
about 3 days before that post
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OK. Don't know what the amount of ammonical N is in that food (urea, ammonium X) but it usually takes at least that long for the ammonical to convert into nitrate. At a rate of 1/2 tsp./gallon, the 30-10-10 would make a great foliar spray. Make sure and use a surfactant in the spray or it will runoff and not stick. If you aint got one then a spritz of Ivory dish soap into the gallon jug will do.

Just curious.....
 
I

Imaulle

Well-Known Member
here is a current picture. I think they are looking great. maybe a tiny tiny bit too much N ?

after topping they each have 4 main branches, hard to see them on this plant. thanks to you Uncle Ben !!!!! :D


 
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