My Outdoor Garden-2010
- Thread starter veggiegardener
- Start date
Gift of the Grow
Member
haha I love the christmas lights thats a great idea for a heat source. I have some shitty old christmas lights that heat up pretty good so maybe ill give it a shot. and putting them on your ganja plants might confuse people enough not to think that somebody would put them on pot plants, thus leaving your gals alone... possibly haha
oh and someone mentioned when light cycles change.
can't take credit for finding the site but its helpful to know your exact light cycles. Heres a site that tells you your year round light amounts by latitude.
http://astro.unl.edu/classaction/animations/coordsmotion/daylighthoursexplorer.html
oh and someone mentioned when light cycles change.
can't take credit for finding the site but its helpful to know your exact light cycles. Heres a site that tells you your year round light amounts by latitude.
http://astro.unl.edu/classaction/animations/coordsmotion/daylighthoursexplorer.html
josh b
Well-Known Member
sup man,whats the weather like where u live atm? im from the uk and 2day is pretty sunny and i have an earge to start vegging my plants and put em outside in early march but not sure if theyl cope because we just got over a very cold/snow filled ,late winter but then again spring starts around late march so what do you think?
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I strongly recommend you wait until late April, or May.
Too early and they will begin flowering, only to revert to veg, after a few weeks.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I transplanted all the young plants into one gallon pots, yesterday.
Since none of the seeds are "feminized", I can expect about 40% to be male. Many of my strains lean toward females but a couple strains, like Durban show a majority of males.
The newly potted plants are now in a greenhouse under my current outdoor day, which is about ten hours of sunlight. I've added supplemental day length with large CFLs in the past, but want to see how they do without.
These young plants are sitting on a makeshift table which is covered to the ground with a heavy plastic sheet. The space under the table has a space heater with an accurate thermostat. This maintains a reasonable soil temperature of about 58 degrees, day and night.
Ambient air temperatures are fluctuating between 36 and 55 degrees, outdoors.
Sunny days, even in winter, can warm the greenhouse air to 90 degrees. This winter has been short on sunlight, but the forecast indicates this will soon change. Maybe Wednesday. I'll take a few pix and post them, then.
Before the disaster at my previous grow site, I had posted a tutorial on transplanting.
My methods are a little different, but VERY successful. I honestly can't remember plant that didn't thrive after being subjected to my method.
The high points:
I use a cheap, coarse, unnuted potting soil(Ace 1.5 cubic feet at $4.49/bag). I add small amounts of Miracle Grow, Cytozyme "Soil", Superthrive, seaweed emulsion, fish emulsion, epsom salts, and volcanic ash to each five gallon bucket of soil.
I then saturate a bucket of the soil and nutes, until the soil is the texture of thin oatmeal, making sure that the nutes are thoroughly mixed in.
I place a roughly four inch wide strip of newsprint around the bottom, covering the drain holes. This works better that sand or rocks, allowing drainage but preventing soil loss.
I then fill the pot about 2/3s and let the excess fluid drain off.
The plants remain their peat pots and are placed so that once filled, the soil will be about an inch below the first true leaves. The cotyledons(seed leaves) can be buried to achieve this height.
If the soil is the proper consistency, nothing further is necessary. The water compacts the soil to a nice density, allowing easy and complete penetration of water to all parts of the plant, while easily draining, to allow oxygen into the soil.
I usually mist off the young plants after transplanting to wash away dirt particles.
I usually don't water for at least a week, in Winter, letting the young plants penetrate the peat pot's walls and chasing the moisture into the new soil mass. Try to water around the perimeter of the pot to encourage the growing roots to fill the pot, rather than stay in the peat pot.
Any excess fluid will be rich in nutrients and will be welcomed by any other plants you have.
Questions are always welcome!
Since none of the seeds are "feminized", I can expect about 40% to be male. Many of my strains lean toward females but a couple strains, like Durban show a majority of males.
The newly potted plants are now in a greenhouse under my current outdoor day, which is about ten hours of sunlight. I've added supplemental day length with large CFLs in the past, but want to see how they do without.
These young plants are sitting on a makeshift table which is covered to the ground with a heavy plastic sheet. The space under the table has a space heater with an accurate thermostat. This maintains a reasonable soil temperature of about 58 degrees, day and night.
Ambient air temperatures are fluctuating between 36 and 55 degrees, outdoors.
Sunny days, even in winter, can warm the greenhouse air to 90 degrees. This winter has been short on sunlight, but the forecast indicates this will soon change. Maybe Wednesday. I'll take a few pix and post them, then.
Before the disaster at my previous grow site, I had posted a tutorial on transplanting.
My methods are a little different, but VERY successful. I honestly can't remember plant that didn't thrive after being subjected to my method.
The high points:
I use a cheap, coarse, unnuted potting soil(Ace 1.5 cubic feet at $4.49/bag). I add small amounts of Miracle Grow, Cytozyme "Soil", Superthrive, seaweed emulsion, fish emulsion, epsom salts, and volcanic ash to each five gallon bucket of soil.
I then saturate a bucket of the soil and nutes, until the soil is the texture of thin oatmeal, making sure that the nutes are thoroughly mixed in.
I place a roughly four inch wide strip of newsprint around the bottom, covering the drain holes. This works better that sand or rocks, allowing drainage but preventing soil loss.
I then fill the pot about 2/3s and let the excess fluid drain off.
The plants remain their peat pots and are placed so that once filled, the soil will be about an inch below the first true leaves. The cotyledons(seed leaves) can be buried to achieve this height.
If the soil is the proper consistency, nothing further is necessary. The water compacts the soil to a nice density, allowing easy and complete penetration of water to all parts of the plant, while easily draining, to allow oxygen into the soil.
I usually mist off the young plants after transplanting to wash away dirt particles.
I usually don't water for at least a week, in Winter, letting the young plants penetrate the peat pot's walls and chasing the moisture into the new soil mass. Try to water around the perimeter of the pot to encourage the growing roots to fill the pot, rather than stay in the peat pot.
Any excess fluid will be rich in nutrients and will be welcomed by any other plants you have.
Questions are always welcome!
beginnerbloomer
Well-Known Member
Hey man,got any harvest pics of those Durbans'?
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
The DPs were very hard to photograph at the end of the season, as the other plants screened them.
Here's a pic or two...
Here's a pic or two...
Attachments
beginnerbloomer
Well-Known Member
Damn,flippin monstrous,cant wait till im able to grow as big as possible. +rep
BlackUp
Member
hey whats going on guys , so those seeds i popped in some dirt began to break surface yesterday! about 8 popped up and are looking good so far 
all 20 seeds germinated which is awesome. hoping for the rest to pop up within the next 2 days! put a little seasons comfort heater up there on a timer to go on at 2-4am to bring up the temps to around 65 and also blocked off a spot where cold outside air was leaking in which might explain the cold temps up there lol. once they all are about 15 days above soil we are gonna throw them under some hps lights in a warmer room on an 18-6 cycle which will keep it niceeee and warm around 75 excited lol
all 20 seeds germinated which is awesome. hoping for the rest to pop up within the next 2 days! put a little seasons comfort heater up there on a timer to go on at 2-4am to bring up the temps to around 65 and also blocked off a spot where cold outside air was leaking in which might explain the cold temps up there lol. once they all are about 15 days above soil we are gonna throw them under some hps lights in a warmer room on an 18-6 cycle which will keep it niceeee and warm around 75 excited lol
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I tear strips about 4' wide, unless the holes are in the bottom, in which case I tear squares of the appropriate size and lay them over the holes.Nice info vg
how do you sex them or do those 10 hr days in the greenhouse show you?
The short days will force the plants to show sex ASAP.
I could add lighting to increase the day length, but truthfully I prefer the plants not get too big until they are sexed.
A couple shots of sexed plants...
Attachments
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Due to cool weather, things are still moving slowly, but I expect a big growth spurt in the next week. The forecast calls for warmer sunny weather.
Even the cat is cold!
The pic of the Durban Poison seedling shows three leaves to the node. More difficult to see is the variegated foliage. This strain has the highest rate of mutations of any strain in my collection.
Regarding all the babies, I should start to see flowers in a couple weeks.
As males show, I'll move them to the other greenhouse, and harvest pollen for tempting crosses.
Even the cat is cold!
The pic of the Durban Poison seedling shows three leaves to the node. More difficult to see is the variegated foliage. This strain has the highest rate of mutations of any strain in my collection.
Regarding all the babies, I should start to see flowers in a couple weeks.
As males show, I'll move them to the other greenhouse, and harvest pollen for tempting crosses.
Attachments
THChong1226
Member
Good job on the last years grow. I'm doing the same setup this year, all organic grow. What are the nutes you use, I just throw my babies into flowering after week 4 and use mollases upfront, once a week every week. You should try it and your yeild will greatly increase
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I tried the molasses thing two years ago. I didn't like the results. i find mulching heavily, through the summer, provides better results. JMHO
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I guess I should mention that I have two greenhouses and a large cage, outdoors. I don't do much indoors beyond sprouting seeds and making clones under lights. Compost provides more and better carbs, but is unacceptable in indoor gardens, due to the many critters that love compost. Carbs and other nutrients are made available to the plants by bacteria that break them down into usable compounds. I use a line of products from Cytozyme labs. These products encourage bacterial activity, making more nutes to the plants.
slabhead
Well-Known Member
ok thx
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Agreed!
Yesterday was beautiful!
The plants in the greenhouses are really taking off!
