That 5hit
Well-Known Member
air layering
Root Clone Test - pictures
- Thread starter Hobbes
- Start date
northeastern lights
Well-Known Member
subscribed.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Im sorry but I can't take it anymore. Its cotyledons.
Anyways, I hope this works. Interesting stuff.
Anyways, I hope this works. Interesting stuff.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
"Im sorry but I can't take it anymore. Its cotyledons."
Thanks Dave. I use too look it up evary time I needed to speel it, witch was more oftan then one wold think, and after a wile I jest said "fuck it, I'll spell it any way, the computer puts a red line under it anyways." Just one of those words I can't get to stick in my mind.
Cotyledons. No red line.
.
"Im sorry but I can't take it anymore. Its cotyledons."
Thanks Dave. I use too look it up evary time I needed to speel it, witch was more oftan then one wold think, and after a wile I jest said "fuck it, I'll spell it any way, the computer puts a red line under it anyways." Just one of those words I can't get to stick in my mind.
Cotyledons. No red line.
.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
I still forget it half the time too and need to double check it when posting sometimes. One of the most frustrating words ever, imo.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
Day 8
.
Sod's looking good.
Nothing happening with the pro mix roots yet, looking alive still. The bubbler roots that were harvested 3 weeks prior to cloning are looking better, swelled with water and crisp.
Today
7 days ago
.
I added a hanging 3" basket in the bubble bucket, and an aquarium heater and thermometer. I always root cuttings quickest with water around 80F, I figure the roots should bud best around the same temperature.
.
Roots and bubbles through the center basket hole.
.
Day 8
.
Sod's looking good.
Nothing happening with the pro mix roots yet, looking alive still. The bubbler roots that were harvested 3 weeks prior to cloning are looking better, swelled with water and crisp.
Today
7 days ago
.
I added a hanging 3" basket in the bubble bucket, and an aquarium heater and thermometer. I always root cuttings quickest with water around 80F, I figure the roots should bud best around the same temperature.
.
Roots and bubbles through the center basket hole.
.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
statik I harvested the plant that these roots are from 3 weeks before I thought to do a root clone test - the 5 gallon root ball was sitting in a garbage bag in my grow room through that time. I sifted some roots from the pro mix and used those for the bubbler and one of the 4 pro mix tests. I want to see if, when we get fantastic bud cured for a plant that we haven't cloned - can we get a clone from the root ball. The roots look good so far.
.
statik I harvested the plant that these roots are from 3 weeks before I thought to do a root clone test - the 5 gallon root ball was sitting in a garbage bag in my grow room through that time. I sifted some roots from the pro mix and used those for the bubbler and one of the 4 pro mix tests. I want to see if, when we get fantastic bud cured for a plant that we haven't cloned - can we get a clone from the root ball. The roots look good so far.
.
YungMoolaBaby
Well-Known Member
Isn't this just another way of tissue culture? Taking parts of the plant and growing them in hormone to produce new growth? I saw an article in High Times about Tissue Culture and it just seems it's the same concept as this root thing here. Interesting to say the least.
MuntantLizzard
Well-Known Member
Plant Tissue Culture
Presenter: Lydiane (Ann) Kyte
Host: Kathy Liu
Discussion
Did you ever have a plant that was so unique or so beautiful that you wished you had hundreds or thousands of them to enjoy or to sell? Plant tissue culture (micropropagation) is a technique which will do just that for us. We are going to discuss this tool which is used so extensively in the nursery business and in plant biotechnology. It is a fascinating and useful tool which allows the rapid production of many genetically identical plants using relatively small amounts of space, supplies and time.
Basically the technique consists of taking a piece of a plant (such as a stem tip, node, meristem, embryo, or even a seed) and placing it in a sterile, (usually gel-based) nutrient medium where it multiplies. The formulation of the growth medium is changed depending upon whether you are trying to get the plant to produce undifferentiated callus tissue, multiply the number of plantlets, grow roots, or multiply embryos for "artificial seed".
For many who become superficially aware of the technique it seems shrouded in mystery and is shrugged off as too technical to be of concern. Actually, it is no more of a mystery than taking a cutting of your favorite house plant and growing it to share with a friend. As for being technical, you can begin plant tissue culture with as little as a cookbook approach and a feeling for sterile technique.
Some people have visions of scientists doing plant tissue cultures in white gowns and masks in hospital-clean environments. Such conditions are excessive. While it is true that mold spores, bacteria, and other contaminants will grow and overrun a culture, air that is not moving has a minimum of contaminants. In addition, disinfection of implements, work surface and nearby areas helps eliminate contaminants.
The guidelines for preparation and the laboratory protocol provided here are given as a place to begin. Included with is a limited discussion of some of the many options you have as you explore micropropagation. We can discuss these in more depth if you have questions, concerns or related experiences to share. I would be particularly interested in success and challenges you may have had or are currently having in your classroom.
Some suggestions are given for the following
(a) Selecting plant sources. Some species, or even clones are easier to grow in culture than others. Some respond reluctantly to culture, some do not respond at all, and many plants have never been tried.
(b) Choosing a growth medium (price, convenience, type of plant and purpose of the micropropagation all enter into this decision.) How important are the kinds of hormones used? On limited scale, media ingredients are available at the grocery and health food stores.
(c) Suggestions for media preparation and sterilization. There are alternatives to sterilization in a pressure cooker or an autoclave.
(d) Methods for cleaning, storing and manipulating explants (plant pieces to be cultured).
Given certain basics there are many options for procedure, equipment and supplies for plant tissue culture. Some of your decisions will be based upon the amount of time, money and space you have. Other decisions will be based upon why you are doing plant tissue culture and what you expect as a result (more plants?) . Catalogs, such as Sigma, Carolina Biological, or Edmund Scientific are good reference and they are for purchasing needed materials..
I look forward to sharing tissue culture experiences with you.
References:
Debergh, P.C. and R.H. Zimmerman, eds. 1991. Micropropagation, Technology and Application. Kluwer Academic Publishers. $61.50. Lab design, info on labs worldwide, in depth discussions of problems. Not for the beginner.
Donnelly, D.J., and W.E.Vidaver, 1988. Glossary of Plant Tissue Culture, Portland, OR. Timber Press, $22.95. Good definitions of tissue culture terms.
Kyte, Lydiane and J. Kleyn, 1996. Plants from Test Tubes: An Introduction to Micropropagation, 3rd ed., Timber Press, 1996 $29.95. Good basics for the beginning amateur or grower.
Smith, Roberta H., 1992. Plant Tissue Culture-Techniques and Experiments. Academic Press. $35.00. Good introduction and broad base for college course.
Trigiano, Robert N, and Dennis J. Gray, eds.1996,Plant Tissue Culture Concepts and Laboratory Exercises. CRC Press. $65.00. For the advanced student.
Presenter: Lydiane (Ann) Kyte
Host: Kathy Liu
Discussion
Did you ever have a plant that was so unique or so beautiful that you wished you had hundreds or thousands of them to enjoy or to sell? Plant tissue culture (micropropagation) is a technique which will do just that for us. We are going to discuss this tool which is used so extensively in the nursery business and in plant biotechnology. It is a fascinating and useful tool which allows the rapid production of many genetically identical plants using relatively small amounts of space, supplies and time.
Basically the technique consists of taking a piece of a plant (such as a stem tip, node, meristem, embryo, or even a seed) and placing it in a sterile, (usually gel-based) nutrient medium where it multiplies. The formulation of the growth medium is changed depending upon whether you are trying to get the plant to produce undifferentiated callus tissue, multiply the number of plantlets, grow roots, or multiply embryos for "artificial seed".
For many who become superficially aware of the technique it seems shrouded in mystery and is shrugged off as too technical to be of concern. Actually, it is no more of a mystery than taking a cutting of your favorite house plant and growing it to share with a friend. As for being technical, you can begin plant tissue culture with as little as a cookbook approach and a feeling for sterile technique.
Some people have visions of scientists doing plant tissue cultures in white gowns and masks in hospital-clean environments. Such conditions are excessive. While it is true that mold spores, bacteria, and other contaminants will grow and overrun a culture, air that is not moving has a minimum of contaminants. In addition, disinfection of implements, work surface and nearby areas helps eliminate contaminants.
The guidelines for preparation and the laboratory protocol provided here are given as a place to begin. Included with is a limited discussion of some of the many options you have as you explore micropropagation. We can discuss these in more depth if you have questions, concerns or related experiences to share. I would be particularly interested in success and challenges you may have had or are currently having in your classroom.
Some suggestions are given for the following
(a) Selecting plant sources. Some species, or even clones are easier to grow in culture than others. Some respond reluctantly to culture, some do not respond at all, and many plants have never been tried.
(b) Choosing a growth medium (price, convenience, type of plant and purpose of the micropropagation all enter into this decision.) How important are the kinds of hormones used? On limited scale, media ingredients are available at the grocery and health food stores.
(c) Suggestions for media preparation and sterilization. There are alternatives to sterilization in a pressure cooker or an autoclave.
(d) Methods for cleaning, storing and manipulating explants (plant pieces to be cultured).
Given certain basics there are many options for procedure, equipment and supplies for plant tissue culture. Some of your decisions will be based upon the amount of time, money and space you have. Other decisions will be based upon why you are doing plant tissue culture and what you expect as a result (more plants?) . Catalogs, such as Sigma, Carolina Biological, or Edmund Scientific are good reference and they are for purchasing needed materials..
I look forward to sharing tissue culture experiences with you.
References:
Debergh, P.C. and R.H. Zimmerman, eds. 1991. Micropropagation, Technology and Application. Kluwer Academic Publishers. $61.50. Lab design, info on labs worldwide, in depth discussions of problems. Not for the beginner.
Donnelly, D.J., and W.E.Vidaver, 1988. Glossary of Plant Tissue Culture, Portland, OR. Timber Press, $22.95. Good definitions of tissue culture terms.
Kyte, Lydiane and J. Kleyn, 1996. Plants from Test Tubes: An Introduction to Micropropagation, 3rd ed., Timber Press, 1996 $29.95. Good basics for the beginning amateur or grower.
Smith, Roberta H., 1992. Plant Tissue Culture-Techniques and Experiments. Academic Press. $35.00. Good introduction and broad base for college course.
Trigiano, Robert N, and Dennis J. Gray, eds.1996,Plant Tissue Culture Concepts and Laboratory Exercises. CRC Press. $65.00. For the advanced student.
MuntantLizzard
Well-Known Member
Sample Protocol
Preparing Media
When ordering media we find a baffling number of options in the catalogs. One of the most complete media is in the Sigma catalog: Murashige and Skoog shoot multiplication medium B (MSMB) (Sigma Catalog No. M7149). At the appropriate time, order a pretransplant medium (Murashige syngonium stage III Pretransplant Medium with sucrose: Sigma M 8650) You will also need a gelling agent, preferably a blend of agar and agar substitute, such as Agargel.
Purchase sterile distilled water from a local grocery store. For 1 liter of medium use a 2 liter container (because the medium boils up). Add the powdered medium to the water and stir. (Don't add the agar (gelling agent) at this stage because it gums things up when adjusting the pH).
Adjust the pH to pH 5.7 using 1N NaOH or 1N HCl (carefully, by the drop) and pH indicator paper (3.5 - 6.
, or a pH meter. (If you don't have a pH meter, the chemistry teacher might.) Now add the agar. Use about 5 grams per liter of medium . Heat and stir until the the medium is clear. (The clarity tells you that the agar has melted.) Dispense into test tubes.
Sterilizing the Medium
Pour about one and a half inches of water into the pressure cooker. Place the tubes upright in the cooker. To hold them upright place them in a wide mouth jar, make a wire or wooden rack, or tie them with string in bundles of ten. They must not fall over. Process at 15 pounds for 15 minutes according to the instructions which come with your cooker.
Preparing Explants
An explant is the part of a plant that you put in culture. The example used here is a strawberry runner tip. Select a young runner where the bud on the end has not yet opened. Cut it off the plant one inch or so from the end. Transport the tips to your classroom in a plastic bag in which you have placed a wet, but not dripping wet, paper towel. If the runner tips are not going to be processed immediately, they can be held in a refrigerator for a day or two.
Fill a pint jar half full of sterile water (boiled, pressure cooked tap water or the store-bought bottled distilled water. Add 2 or 3 drops of liquid dish washing detergent (or Tween 20, a wetting agent). Place the runner tips in the jar and replace the screw-on lid. Vigorously shake the jar by hand for one minute. Pour off the water, rinse two or three times with fresh sterile water. Repeat this operation (or dip in 70% alcohol for a few seconds and rinse. In another container add 30 ml of household bleach to 270 ml of sterile water(10% bleach). To this add 2 drops of detergent. Add the explants and shake intermittently for 10 minutes. Quickly drain and add sterile water, cover and shake. The explants are now ready to take to the transfer chamber.
Starting the Explants
The transfer chamber should be ready with the walls and workspace wiped or sprayed with 10% bleach/sterile water solution or 70% isopropyl alcohol (not if using a Bunsen burner). There should be a container of 10% bleach/sterile water and a container of 1% bleach/sterile water to sterilize and rinse the instruments and gloved hands of the operator.
Immerse the forceps and knife for 30 seconds or more in the 10% bleach then rinse in the 1% bleach and rest them on a sterile holder or paper towel to dry for a few seconds. With the forceps place a sterile paper towel on the workspace. With the forceps place a runner tip on the towel. Place the forceps in the other hand to hold the tip while the first hand uses the knife or scalpel to cut off 1 cm of the stem. Place the knife in the 1/10 bleach, move the forceps to that hand. Grab a sterile test tube of medium with the other hand, hold it by the base. With the little finger of the hand holding the forceps, remove the cap and cradle it there while you use the forceps to firmly lay the bud on the medium. Recap the test tube and seal with a piece of Scotch tape (or Parafilm).
Growing
Place the test tubes in the planter tray (or other appropriate holder ) and place the tray on a shelf under fluorescent light which is 8-10 inches above the top of the tubes. Room temperature is o.k. Continuous light is acceptable, but 16 hours light/ 8 hours darkness is standard.
Check daily for contaminants. If any are found, sterilize tube and contents before discarding the contents.
Transfer the explant every two weeks or so until it is actively growing. In one to two months you should be able to divide the culture into two pieces, each of which is about 0.5 cm in diameter. Continue to divide and transfer until you have enough plantlets. The plantlets should be singulated as you transfer to prerooting medium which has no hormones (or only IAA).
Transplanting
When the plantlets begin to root, perhaps two to four weeks, transplant them to a light artificial soil mix, such as peat/pearlite, in a seedling tray. Cover with clear plastic and place on a lighted shelf or in a shaded greenhouse. After two or three weeks begin leaving the plastic off for a period of time each day. The time the plantlets are left uncovered should get longer each day, until after about a week, the cover can be left off completely. (Tissue cultured plantlets are more delicate than seedlings as the stomates remain open until they slowly adjust to normal humidity and light.
Conclusion
After having successfully tried plant tissue culture, you will wonder about nearly every plant you see, asking yourself, "I wonder how that plant will respond in tissue culture?"
Preparing Media
When ordering media we find a baffling number of options in the catalogs. One of the most complete media is in the Sigma catalog: Murashige and Skoog shoot multiplication medium B (MSMB) (Sigma Catalog No. M7149). At the appropriate time, order a pretransplant medium (Murashige syngonium stage III Pretransplant Medium with sucrose: Sigma M 8650) You will also need a gelling agent, preferably a blend of agar and agar substitute, such as Agargel.
Purchase sterile distilled water from a local grocery store. For 1 liter of medium use a 2 liter container (because the medium boils up). Add the powdered medium to the water and stir. (Don't add the agar (gelling agent) at this stage because it gums things up when adjusting the pH).
Adjust the pH to pH 5.7 using 1N NaOH or 1N HCl (carefully, by the drop) and pH indicator paper (3.5 - 6.
, or a pH meter. (If you don't have a pH meter, the chemistry teacher might.) Now add the agar. Use about 5 grams per liter of medium . Heat and stir until the the medium is clear. (The clarity tells you that the agar has melted.) Dispense into test tubes.Sterilizing the Medium
Pour about one and a half inches of water into the pressure cooker. Place the tubes upright in the cooker. To hold them upright place them in a wide mouth jar, make a wire or wooden rack, or tie them with string in bundles of ten. They must not fall over. Process at 15 pounds for 15 minutes according to the instructions which come with your cooker.
Preparing Explants
An explant is the part of a plant that you put in culture. The example used here is a strawberry runner tip. Select a young runner where the bud on the end has not yet opened. Cut it off the plant one inch or so from the end. Transport the tips to your classroom in a plastic bag in which you have placed a wet, but not dripping wet, paper towel. If the runner tips are not going to be processed immediately, they can be held in a refrigerator for a day or two.
Fill a pint jar half full of sterile water (boiled, pressure cooked tap water or the store-bought bottled distilled water. Add 2 or 3 drops of liquid dish washing detergent (or Tween 20, a wetting agent). Place the runner tips in the jar and replace the screw-on lid. Vigorously shake the jar by hand for one minute. Pour off the water, rinse two or three times with fresh sterile water. Repeat this operation (or dip in 70% alcohol for a few seconds and rinse. In another container add 30 ml of household bleach to 270 ml of sterile water(10% bleach). To this add 2 drops of detergent. Add the explants and shake intermittently for 10 minutes. Quickly drain and add sterile water, cover and shake. The explants are now ready to take to the transfer chamber.
Starting the Explants
The transfer chamber should be ready with the walls and workspace wiped or sprayed with 10% bleach/sterile water solution or 70% isopropyl alcohol (not if using a Bunsen burner). There should be a container of 10% bleach/sterile water and a container of 1% bleach/sterile water to sterilize and rinse the instruments and gloved hands of the operator.
Immerse the forceps and knife for 30 seconds or more in the 10% bleach then rinse in the 1% bleach and rest them on a sterile holder or paper towel to dry for a few seconds. With the forceps place a sterile paper towel on the workspace. With the forceps place a runner tip on the towel. Place the forceps in the other hand to hold the tip while the first hand uses the knife or scalpel to cut off 1 cm of the stem. Place the knife in the 1/10 bleach, move the forceps to that hand. Grab a sterile test tube of medium with the other hand, hold it by the base. With the little finger of the hand holding the forceps, remove the cap and cradle it there while you use the forceps to firmly lay the bud on the medium. Recap the test tube and seal with a piece of Scotch tape (or Parafilm).
Growing
Place the test tubes in the planter tray (or other appropriate holder ) and place the tray on a shelf under fluorescent light which is 8-10 inches above the top of the tubes. Room temperature is o.k. Continuous light is acceptable, but 16 hours light/ 8 hours darkness is standard.
Check daily for contaminants. If any are found, sterilize tube and contents before discarding the contents.
Transfer the explant every two weeks or so until it is actively growing. In one to two months you should be able to divide the culture into two pieces, each of which is about 0.5 cm in diameter. Continue to divide and transfer until you have enough plantlets. The plantlets should be singulated as you transfer to prerooting medium which has no hormones (or only IAA).
Transplanting
When the plantlets begin to root, perhaps two to four weeks, transplant them to a light artificial soil mix, such as peat/pearlite, in a seedling tray. Cover with clear plastic and place on a lighted shelf or in a shaded greenhouse. After two or three weeks begin leaving the plastic off for a period of time each day. The time the plantlets are left uncovered should get longer each day, until after about a week, the cover can be left off completely. (Tissue cultured plantlets are more delicate than seedlings as the stomates remain open until they slowly adjust to normal humidity and light.
Conclusion
After having successfully tried plant tissue culture, you will wonder about nearly every plant you see, asking yourself, "I wonder how that plant will respond in tissue culture?"
MuntantLizzard
Well-Known Member
I haven't yet started because well i dont think my roots(DWC) are going to work. the bubbler doesnt seem compleat., were missing something.
MuntantLizzard
Well-Known Member
Preparation
Given certain basics there are many options for procedure, equipment and supplies for plant tissue culture. Some decisions will be based upon the amount of time and money available, others are merely a matter of personal preference. Catalogs, such as Sigma, Carolina Biological, or Edmund Scientific for are essential for reference or purchasing are very important resources.
OPTIONS
The following discussion lists some of the various options you have as you begin the tissue culture of plants. Options used in in the sample protocol are identified with an asterisk (*).
Which plant?
Perhaps the easiest decision you need to make is which plant you would like to place in culture. To begin with I would suggest one of the following:
If your school already has, or can afford to buy, a transfer chamber with a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter then there is no decision, you will use the transfer chamber. For now we shall rule out this unlikely option. An open bench or desk-top in the school room will work but you may have as much as 95% contamination which would be very discouraging. Other options include the following:
Medium (plural media)
Next you will need to decide on the nutrient medium. The options are limited:
Equipment for Media Preparation
You will need a vessel in which to mix and heat the medium:
Equipment and Materials for Use in the Transfer Chamber
Device to hold sterilized instruments as they cool or dry:
Sterile surface on which to cut cultures:
Growing Space
*Shelves lighted with fluorescent lights (cool white or equivalent)
Test tube racks
*A seedling tray 11 X 22, 78 holes, to hold test tubes on lighted shelves
Given certain basics there are many options for procedure, equipment and supplies for plant tissue culture. Some decisions will be based upon the amount of time and money available, others are merely a matter of personal preference. Catalogs, such as Sigma, Carolina Biological, or Edmund Scientific for are essential for reference or purchasing are very important resources.
OPTIONS
The following discussion lists some of the various options you have as you begin the tissue culture of plants. Options used in in the sample protocol are identified with an asterisk (*).
Which plant?
Perhaps the easiest decision you need to make is which plant you would like to place in culture. To begin with I would suggest one of the following:
- Boston fern (runner tip)
- Rex Begonia {petiole segment}
- Kalenchoe (stem tip)
- *Strawberry (runner tip)
- African violet , leaf part
- Arrowhead plant , stem tip
If your school already has, or can afford to buy, a transfer chamber with a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter then there is no decision, you will use the transfer chamber. For now we shall rule out this unlikely option. An open bench or desk-top in the school room will work but you may have as much as 95% contamination which would be very discouraging. Other options include the following:
- Find a small room with still air
- Build a still air box of wood; with a slanted front of glass (or Plexiglass)
- *Use a large cardboard carton; tape clear plastic over the top and front (cut holes in the sides or front for access by hands and forearms)
- Use a large, clear plastic bag
- Purchase a small HEPA filter and blower and build a little hood.
Medium (plural media)
Next you will need to decide on the nutrient medium. The options are limited:
- *Buy premixed medium in powder form ready to mix with water, heat, dispense and sterilize.
- Buy media already in test tubes ready to use (expensive).
- Buy the individual chemicals (expensive for limited use and requires a balance which can weigh milligram quantities).
- Buy "off the shelf" ingredients from local stores.
Equipment for Media Preparation
You will need a vessel in which to mix and heat the medium:
- A 2 or 4 liter Erlenmeyer flask (if using a hot plate or hot plate/magnetic stirrer}
- *A stainless steel pan (if using a stove or burner)
- *A long handled spoon
- A hand mixer
- A hot plate/magnetic stirrer
- If you are really desperate use baby food jars.
- *Test tubes, "disposable" glass 25 X 100 mm is standard (80 for $54.60 1995 Sigma Plant Culture Catalog)
- *Test tube caps
- Buy one or more racks
- *Build one or more from wood or wire
- Buy an automatic dispenser (expensive and fragile)
- *Use a glass (Pyrex) quart pitcher
- *A household pressure cooker
- An autoclave (very expensive)
Equipment and Materials for Use in the Transfer Chamber
- *Forceps (2 or more) 8 inch
- Tweezers (large, o.k. for baby food jars)
- *Kitchen paring knife
- Scalpel
- *Rubber gloves
- Spray bottle with 70% isopropyl alcohol (flammable)
- *Household bleach
- *Plastic dish to hold 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach and 9 parts sterile water) for sterilizing instruments and gloved hands.
- *Plastic dish to hold 1% rinse solution (1 part bleach and 99 parts sterile water) for rinsing instruments and gloved hands.
- Bunsen burner
- Bacti-Cinerator
- Glass bead sterilizer
- Lead melting pot containing sand
Device to hold sterilized instruments as they cool or dry:
- *Test tube laid horizontally to rest instruments on
- Build a rack of hardware cloth (wire)
- Up-end a metal test tube rack
Sterile surface on which to cut cultures:
- A 12 inch square of plate glass (spray with alcohol)
- *Single sheet paper towels (which have been wrapped in foil and sterilized in pressure cooker for one hour at 15 lbs pressure. Don't forget to have sufficient water in the base of the cooker and place pack of towels on rack or other holder to keep them out of the water.)
Growing Space
*Shelves lighted with fluorescent lights (cool white or equivalent)
Test tube racks
*A seedling tray 11 X 22, 78 holes, to hold test tubes on lighted shelves
MuntantLizzard
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the Hijack, But Thats strait for the national museum of health. Its a really good read, I like other plants not just weed. So lets learn some shit
AquafinaOrbit
Well-Known Member
Plant Tissue Culture sound perfect for mushroom growers as thats much a process we already use. Both Teks seem very interesting so far.
statik
Well-Known Member
As an ex-landscaper, I agree with That 5hit. I cant tell you how many times I have yanked up a plant (actual garden weeds), the roots stayed in the ground...and had the little bastard come back in a little over a week.
I know it not the same species of plant, but if most common weeds can do this...I am pretty damn sure Cannabis can do it to then.
I know it not the same species of plant, but if most common weeds can do this...I am pretty damn sure Cannabis can do it to then.
That 5hit
Well-Known Member
lets not forget grass
i ve seen grass come back from nothing