Help me build a grow box with $300

1foryou

Active Member
thx to all in advance who help me out.i have the floralux 150w hps that i just got and i need to build a grow box for it.the light is 14"long x 10"wide x 5" tall.i want the box to not look so obvious and not to big.my goal is to flower at least 1 plant and get at least 2oz off it.if anybody can help me build a complete box not going over $300 i would really appreciate it.and what strain should i go with to get that yield.peace
 

TillthedayiDIE420

Well-Known Member
Hey man,

Ok man he is a list for under 300

-cheap 24"wide 18"deep 5'high cabinet from walmart *The cheaper the better*
-1 80cfm washroom fan
- thermometer
-white cardboard(for the back inside the box)

If you want two oz's this is what you need to do on your budget, with a 150w light this is a hard goal to achieve.
I've never tryed it myself.

Buy some small fans from wal-mart too, get the air moving. We do not want moldy bud.
 
Under $300 is easy if you have basic tools such as a circular saw, tape measure and a drill. If so you can make a simple box with a passive air intake, light proof it, paint it and install your light and it will outlast any Chinese made particle board crap from Wal-Mart. And definitely use a bathroom vent fan like TillthedayIdie mentioned....they are cheap and work great for small grows.
 

TCurtiss

Well-Known Member
Do what I did find a fridge on craigslist for free and customize it, with all the extra $$$ you save you can do all sorts of things

I have 4 plants in there now that will give me well over a 100 grams this round
 

1foryou

Active Member
Do what I did find a fridge on craigslist for free and customize it, with all the extra $$$ you save you can do all sorts of things

I have 4 plants in there now that will give me well over a 100 grams this round
yea im searching craigslist now your setup sounds cool do you have any pics?
 
There are a few on youtube, search "jack herer is in my fridge".

I did a fridge grow in the 80's in a non-running fridge, it worked great even with a 250w MH. The one in the youtube video I mentioned still has working refrigeration though!
 

1foryou

Active Member
There are a few on youtube, search "jack herer is in my fridge".

I did a fridge grow in the 80's in a non-running fridge, it worked great even with a 250w MH. The one in the youtube video I mentioned still has working refrigeration though!
damn.lol.thats amazing.the best i had so far was grown in a pc case.check my album and thx for your input.peace.once i build the case i will post pics
 

Punk

Well-Known Member
Go to the good will or salvation army and buy a cabinet about a foot bigger then you want to grow your plants and have at it
Yes. Don't buy new at walmart. I found a nice cab I use for cloning at a goodwill, and I also went to a hotel furniture outlet store and found some nice heavy cabs.

When you're mounting fans and lights, you don't want thin particle board, it'll crumble.

The fridge is a good idea, but sometimes a fridge in a room can seem out of place, so not very stealthy.
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
there are a few sites on the net that sell complete stealth set like dressers or cabinets.. they are all expensive usually ..but its possible to get some for around 300 dollars .. you just have to LOOK HARD... I found i site in jersey that sells dressers pre made to use for growing.. If i'm not mistaken it may be a complete set... if it's not i think it may be under 300 .. sorry i know this isn't helping much but if i can find a link a friend sent me. I'll post you with it.
But if your not into that idea Goodwill or thrift shops are your best bet at finding exactly what your looking for for the cheapest price...
 

1foryou

Active Member
ok guys thx to all of you.im searching for a good cabinet on craigslist now and ive ordered 4 pc fans,mylar,thermometer,and a few other things.i will post picks soon.peace
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
i made this for less than 75$ total, not counting the hid lamps. got the rubbermaid cab at a garage sale for 10$, the unistrut, wire, and assorted hardware/screws like 40$. and for 25$ got a temp sensor with remote thermocouple,and a cpl relays off of flea bay. i already had a 24 hr inductive timer from hd, so im not counting it, but it was only 20 bux so you could very easily build this for less than 100$ with some thrifty shopping. i can fit 72 clones with ease on the top shelf if needed, and another 40-50 in undercabinet t5 fixtures would provide all the light in the world for them. it would cost about 50-60$ to get a container, some bubble airlines (not air stones. stones clog. bubble hose is great) and a decent airpump to make a kick ass bubble cloner. so less than 200 for a flowering cab and perpetual/harvest clone setup
a great place to find fans and relays and temp relays/sensors are places that sell used electrical industrial controls...

 
i made this for less than 75$ total, not counting the hid lamps. got the rubbermaid cab at a garage sale for 10$, the unistrut, wire, and assorted hardware/screws like 40$. and for 25$ got a temp sensor with remote thermocouple,and a cpl relays off of flea bay. i already had a 24 hr inductive timer from hd, so im not counting it, but it was only 20 bux so you could very easily build this for less than 100$ with some thrifty shopping. i can fit 72 clones with ease on the top shelf if needed, and another 40-50 in undercabinet t5 fixtures would provide all the light in the world for them. it would cost about 50-60$ to get a container, some bubble airlines (not air stones. stones clog. bubble hose is great) and a decent airpump to make a kick ass bubble cloner. so less than 200 for a flowering cab and perpetual/harvest clone setup
a great place to find fans and relays and temp relays/sensors are places that sell used electrical industrial controls...
That's a great setup regardless of how little you spent on it. How well do those Rubbermaid cabs cool and what did you have to do to lightproof it?
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
well the 2 fans are 240v fans used to cool industrial control cabinets in manufacturing facilities. i have no idea what there cfm is, but they scream when there on. i imagine they would be kinda badass to use for a cooltube, but i dont liek cooltubes, i think there a pain in the ass! so i use tricks i have learned from my years on jobstes dealing with massive air handling systems in commercial buildings, just scaled down in theory and complexity. temps have never been an issue. that particular cab is a work in construction, one i use to run experiments in. the top exhaust stays on whenever the lights are on, in this case its 24/7. if the temps exceed 80f the temp sensor kicks on the bottom fan to pressurize the interior of the cab,which acts as a most efficient exhaust, similair to a smoke exhuast system used on large buildings just on a smaller scale. originally i had the bottom fan on 24/7 like the upper, but it was so cold in there it started to inhibit growth. i put it on a thermostat but it hasnt kicked on since. i havent run the cab in summertime yet so no idea how it will perform in higher ambient temps. right now the temp in the room the cab is in stays around 65-70 deg f, a little low but with the 400w i have in there it stays about 72-75 in the cab with the upper fan on only.

lightproofing is not an issue in this case, so i havent bothered with fooling with it. but in the past typically i would use mylar to cover the walls, using 3m adhesive... the headliner repair glue is the shiznit for this, but you have to work quick because the glue tacks pretty fast and the mylar film sticks to it like superglue so you have to be ready to hang it once you apply the stuff. i find its much easier to work with smaller peices rather than trying to use a whole emerg blanket, that way if you have a bad wrinkle or crease its not a big deal to peel off the small peice. the hardest part is blocking the light escaping from the crack between the 2 doors but after some thought i came up with the simpelest of solutions, a 2" cardboard strip glued down the backside of one door so that 1" overhangs. that way when the doors shut the seam is blocked. it would be just as easy to do the same for the top and bottom seams as well, but like i said, its not a problem in my case, stealth is not an issue. i just like using the cabs to fool around with plants for mothers because it is so easy to monitor exactly whats going on.

but when i started out in apts i had a few stealthy ops lol.

right now i just acquired another cab, but slighly bigger and made of wood, looks like something you would get at target or walmart, laminated white, with adjustable shelves, bout 36w x 20"d x 72" tall. i think it will make a great flower cab for a small dwc sog with room for vegging small clones on top. the way the cab is made light leakage between the top and bottom sections will be a cinch to solve, really just a matter of some duct tape because the shelves are a near perfect fit. i have a couple of old 400w pulse start magentic ballasts lying around, i was thinking of peicing together a 400w mh light for the top, and maybe line the sides with some vertical floro grow lamps i 'liberated' from a local university that was going to throw them out. (they were upgrading there lights and would have had to have paid them a disposal fee. call me a good samaritan for eleminating that fee for them, lol scored an entire case of free 4' lamps! like 150$ worth... so in my head the lower cab will look like some kind of wierd phototron/ old school vert mh inspired frankensteins lab contraption. for the upper ill just toss some cfl's in there, and i have a shitload of exhaust fans lying around so it will be fun to come up with a solution to make it all work. hopefully ill have it done by tommorrow (sans the rez, im lacking a big enough air pump and i havent took my lazy ass to town to get one. also will need nutes and that will be a problem cuz nutes and net pots are hard as hell to find around here, theres only one hydro shop in 50 miles from here and its expensive and kinda shady... called worms way. hate the place.
 
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