Speaker box build

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BrotherBudro

Member
I have decided to go with a speaker box set up for my grow box as opposed to the pc tower i was originally going to use.
I'm going to get the box tomorrow and i figured while i'm out i might as well go and get the lights and start putting this bad boy together
Now, i plan on getting one that is around 3 feet tall
to keep 2 small plants in
how many lights do i need to put in?
i was planning on using CFLs with twentysomething watts
any ideas on this?
What kind of fans do I need?
i was thinking about getting an 80mm computer fan near the botom for intake and a 120 mm computer fan near the top for exhaust
will that suffice or do i need more?
I'll keep this up-to-date as i build my box and run into problems
 
B

BrotherBudro

Member
I went to local thrift stores today to try and find a speaker box but didn't find anything that would suffice so i decided to build my own
i have the wood now i just have to cut it
it's going to be 30"hx12"wx18"l
I bought all my lighting stuff today tho
i got 2 daylight 26 watt cfls and 2 super white 26 watt cfls
will that be enough for2-3 plants?
Does it sound like i have enough ventilation?
 
10jed

10jed

Active Member
Hey there brother. I have a space that is 19wx14dx30h and I run 6 42w cfls. I just flower in this cab so I use warm white/2700K lamps. In the summer, before I upgraded my fan and had the benefit of winter weather I ran only 4 @ 42w and it worked. The biggest challenge is ventilation and odor. Build your cab, add your carbon scrubber, and then check your temps with whatever lighting you choose. add more until you can't keep temps in the mid-upper 70's. when you check your temps shade your thermo because just like a thermo outside you will get a radiant temp much higher than the actual ambient temp if you are in direct light.

don't use an intake fan because it will possibly overdrive your exhaust fan and blow stinky air out of your cabinet. you want all air flow going through your carbon so you can keep smells in check. you need to be sure you have negative pressure in your cabinet. I am using a carbon filled tray because it allowed me to make better use of the top area of my cabinet, and I am using a 120mm pc fan. the fan I am using I bought at newegg.com and was chosen because it was super quiet (low db) and moves a lot of air (high cfm). you can run most pc fans off anywhere from 5v-12v so it is fairly easy to pick up a handful of wallworts from the thrift shop and try different voltages to dial in your fan speed. At 12v your fan will move more air, but it is substantially louder. You may also look into fans that have a built in temp guage so that they run at higher speed when they get hot. these fans have a little sensor on a wire and you can put the sensor directly onto a bulb so that it slows down and gets more quiet when the lights are off. These fans are fairly rare and I ended up going with one that was just as quiet as the thermo fans in their quiet mode and it just keeps air flowing all the time and keeps my negative presure in check. YMMV Make usre you exaust the air from the top and get intake from the bottom. heat rises...

Your 100 watts should work but light is a "more is better" kind of thing and you will probably want to up that if you can do it without creating a heat issue. Raising your plants up to a few inches from the bulbs will help, but you need to monitor that so they don't get too close as they grow and burn up.

Good luck!
Jed
 
B

BrotherBudro

Member
thanks a ton
all the plans of rooms i have seen have an intake fan, but you make a valid point.
I was planning on putting a carbon scrubber over the exhaust fan, do you think i could if the scrubber on the inside of the fan so that from the outside of the box there isn't a big filter sticking out of the top?
Would more of the same lights be better or should i add one or two more higher wattage cfls?
I appreciate all your help
 
10jed

10jed

Active Member
BrotherBudro said:
thanks a ton
all the plans of rooms i have seen have an intake fan, but you make a valid point.
I was planning on putting a carbon scrubber over the exhaust fan, do you think i could if the scrubber on the inside of the fan so that from the outside of the box there isn't a big filter sticking out of the top?
Would more of the same lights be better or should i add one or two more higher wattage cfls?
I appreciate all your help
Click to expand...
Fans are better at pulling through a filter than pushing. A carbon filter will take a LOT of the fans power. The carbon in the box will be best for stealth so it is commonly done that way for smaller stealth grows.

Don't worry about buying more bulbs yet, just get everything else up and running and then see where you are at. If you can keep temps in line then start switching out the 26w bulbs for the 42's. You will want more light if you can get it. Some people believe that 2 @ 26 will produce substantially more heat than 1 @ 42... I'm not sure, but I did base my lighting on that premise.

You may also want to look at t5 HO tubes or PL-L floros. they are great for producing max lumens per watt and they are run off a remote ballast that you can put into/near your exhaust. the ballast, whether cfl (the ballast is in the base of a cfl), tube, or PL-L, does produce a little heat and getting that out of your main grow area helps. Despite what a lot of people say on the forums though, the bubs produce most of the heat!!! With HPS it is a little different... I have PL-L's in my veg/mom/clone cabinet and use a Fulham ballast. If I were to start over on the flower cab I would probably go that route.



Jed
 
B

BrotherBudro

Member
Do you think i could have the filter as well as the fan inside the box? but still have the fan pushing through the filter?
just have the filter flush with the top of my box
also, i got the door on today but there are alot of open spaces around the door
what can i do about this?
weather seal? i am clueless on this one
 
10jed

10jed

Active Member
BrotherBudro said:
Do you think i could have the filter as well as the fan inside the box? but still have the fan pushing through the filter?
just have the filter flush with the top of my box
also, i got the door on today but there are alot of open spaces around the door
what can i do about this?
weather seal? i am clueless on this one
Click to expand...
pull through the filter, but yes to your question. Try pipe insulation cut in half for light proofing. It is firm and curved. You can staple it to the inside of the box so that it curves towards the door and makes an efficient seal. When split in 2, staple the cut side to the box and let the factory cut touch the door. This worked well for me.

jed
 
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BrotherBudro

Member
Wow i read your other post about the filter wrong
So make the fan PUSH air INTO the filter instead of make the fan PULL air OUT OF the filter?
sounds doable
I read that some people use self adhesive foam strips around the door, that sounds like a good idea too
but i'll let you know what i decide to do
How big should the hole in the bottom of the back be for intake?
since you told me i don't need a fan there i was thinking about just putting a fan sized hole there and if i needed a fan later i could just slap it on there no problem
how do i keep light from escaping through that whole also?
Thanks so much everybody, especially Jed you guys are really helping me out a ton
 
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BrotherBudro

Member
me and a friend are building them
wehad to buy 2 pieces of wood
one was 18 and the other was 10
after hinges and all i'd say one cost around 20
but now we have to put in all the fans, and lights, and aluminum foil so i'm planning on a 50-75
 
10jed

10jed

Active Member
BrotherBudro said:
Wow i read your other post about the filter wrong
So make the fan PUSH air INTO the filter instead of make the fan PULL air OUT OF the filter?
sounds doable
I read that some people use self adhesive foam strips around the door, that sounds like a good idea too
but i'll let you know what i decide to do
How big should the hole in the bottom of the back be for intake?
since you told me i don't need a fan there i was thinking about just putting a fan sized hole there and if i needed a fan later i could just slap it on there no problem
how do i keep light from escaping through that whole also?
Thanks so much everybody, especially Jed you guys are really helping me out a ton
Click to expand...
Ok dude... pull air through the filter. Not push but pull. the fan will work better that way. Sorry if I confused you on that one!

As for light traps there are 3 common ways. You can go buy light trap vents from a photographic suply house that are used for making darkrooms. You can build a simple labyrinth out of plywood or similar material. Most people use pvc pipe though. Make sure you get atleast a couple of bends in it so light can't pass through it. Whatever you use you should paint all surfaces with flat black paint so light doesn't bounce off of the surface.

If using pvc then you would want 3 or 4 intake points using 2 1/2" pvc that are flush with the outside surface, preferable the bottom to keep it hidden, and then a couple of 90 degree elbows on each one to keep light from passing. Spray the inside of all tubes with FLAT black paint.

If you do a labyrinth setup (google it) you can easily build a false floor that opens on one end of the cabinet and has intake at the other end. So for instance you could open a hole in the back right hand corner of the floor and have your shelf attached to the back and right sides of the cabinet and then an inch or so off of the front and left side walls. Build it up a couple of inches so air can pass easily under the false bottom and come out on the sides that aren't connected to a wall. Follow me? Paint the underside of the false floor and the actuall floor of the cab FLAT black to keep down reflections. I have the hole in the middle in the floor of the cabinet and about an inch all the way around the false floor in my flower cab and an offset shelf in my veg/mom/clone cab. the false floor shades the holes from the light. You will probably need a hole about 4x4". You don't want too big because you will then no longer have negative pressure. don't worry about leaving a hole for an intake fan. You don't want that. If you aren't getting enough ventilation you will want to upgrade your exhaust fan. it is also a good idea to put a foam air filter over your intakes to keep dust and bugs out of your grow. some guys go with hepa filters and that is probably the best.

the adhesive foam can work but the adhesive can easily pull off and be a big mess. either way I would use a staple gun to fasten it. Get a caulk gun if you don't have one and caulk everything. every hole and every joint needs to be caulked to keep light from passing and to keep you air coming and going the way you design it.



as you get the cab running and check temps you will know if you need more passive intake or a stronger fan, but to say now is all conjecture. Trial and error is the only way unfortunately.

Jed
 
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BrotherBudro

Member
Got the fan figured out
Thanks!
I can't find a labyrinth set up on google
a false floor isn't a bad idea but it I'm worried it might be too late because i've already built the cabinet.
3-4 intake holes would work but i really only wanted to do one
but i'd rather my plants grow too
is there a one hole method?
or is 3 or a labyrinth my only options?
Thanks
 
10jed

10jed

Active Member
BrotherBudro said:
Got the fan figured out
Thanks!
I can't find a labyrinth set up on google
a false floor isn't a bad idea but it I'm worried it might be too late because i've already built the cabinet.
3-4 intake holes would work but i really only wanted to do one
but i'd rather my plants grow too
is there a one hole method?
or is 3 or a labyrinth my only options?
Thanks
Click to expand...
you can do whatever... you will need x amount of intake. so 1 hole or 10 doesn't matter as long as you have the right amount in combination, based on size. For my box I started with 3 @ 2" holes and then ultimately cute them out into 1 big hole because it wasn't enough. my intake isn't square, but if it was it would be about 4"x6". 6 holes at 2x2 would be about the same thing.

the reason I didn't do the pvc light traps is because they end up taking up floor space and I would have built a false floor over it anyways... If you put the hole on the back of the cabinet (that is how my veg/mom/clone cab is) then the bottom part of the door of the cabinet needs to be flat black otherwise you will have light bounce off your door and then back out the hole in the back.

I should have been more clear about the labyrinth... a labyrinth is a series of panes fit together kinda like a maze so light/air has to turn a few corners before it gets to the end. The hole in the bottom of the cab with a false shelf over it is a simplified version of this.

tell me where you want your intake and I will tell you how I would do it. Building a false floor is super easy man... 1 more piece of plywood cut a couple inches smaller each way than the floor of the cabinet, with a few 1x2 chunks under it for support.

it took me a lot of trial and error to get my cab dialed in so that is why I am trying to help you out while you are just starting. I wasted a fair amount of time and $$$ on shit that didn't end up working! One of these days I will do a how to thread on what I did... I took pictures of each step in the initial build-out but I changed so much afterward that it wouldn't be good information to post.

Get crackin on the intake holes and get that cabinet light tight. Then we can get you started on your carbon filter. Don't cut your exhaust holes until you know what you are doing for a filter and fan. Only holes you shoul have in the cab at this point is your intake and you may want to run a power strip in there also. After you have intake then you can put some temp light in there to check for light leaks.

also, you will want to paint the interior of the cabinet with a couple of coats of FLAT white paint to get good reflection inside. A lot of the shiney stuff isn't good at all and not much is better than good old flat white. A pint and a disposable brush is all you will need. The paint will help protect the interior from moisture also. If the wood gets too humid or too dry it can start popping screws and nails out as it expands/contracts... paint is good.


Jed
 
B

BrotherBudro

Member
I was going to put one intake hole at the bottom center of the back of the cabinet the size of an 80mm fan (this is before you told me that would be a waste)
i will also be running wires out of that hole.
tell me what you think is best i'm open to any suggestions, i really don't know what i'm doing
 
10jed

10jed

Active Member
BrotherBudro said:
I was going to put one intake hole at the bottom center of the back of the cabinet the size of an 80mm fan (this is before you told me that would be a waste)
i will also be running wires out of that hole.
tell me what you think is best i'm open to any suggestions, i really don't know what i'm doing
Click to expand...
here is what I would do, ymmv...

cut a slit about 1" tall across the back of the cab at floor level. Centered in the back leaving a couple of inches on either side. **edited to add** You could do a series of 1" holes, closely spaced across the back if that is easier

Build a false floor that connects to the back and two sides but is about 2 inches from the front door. Use 1x2 boards to support it from the bottom... I would go no more than about 6" spacing between them. 2 on the sides and a couple in the center all running front to back so they don't hamper the air flow. Attach them to false floor with glue and screws. Predrilling is a really good idea. The false floor should be no more than 1/4" off of each side when fit in the box. It can be 1/4" plywood up to 3/4"... doesn't really matter.

Spray paint the cab floor, the bottom of the shelf, and the bottom 6-8" of the door with flat black.

**edit** Don't caulk it in just yet, but after you get air flow dialed in we will. Try to cut it to a tight tolerance or you can duct tape it for now to seal out light from the gaps. Now is a good time to caulk the entire interior of the box.

then run a light in there and see how our false floor is working! Should be -0- light coming out the back. If you are able, run all your bulbs in there at one time from a position near the top to get the true effect. I would assume you will still have some light coming out the door, but if you have weather stripped that then you may be golden there as well. check for light tightness is a totally dark room.

After this is good, then paint the inside of that cabinet with the flat white and I'll help you through the filter and exhaust.

Now's a good time for some pics too!

Jed
I'm a bossy fucker aren't I! Ha!!!
 
B

BrotherBudro

Member
Not at all, it's all just help
I think we are going to work on it more on friday (i have alot of tests this week)
I'll try to take some pictures then but i don't have a camera
this false floor is confusing me a little bit
do you have any pictures?
is white paint better than aluminum foil?
 
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