Boomer's 2400w Sour Grape GrowOp w/ ScrOG & CO2

What will I yield per 600w HPS lamp?


  • Total voters
    285

BooMeR242

Well-Known Member
Wow i cant wait till there is a nice green sea in those trays :) looking good though, very professional look. Once i get a couple harvests under me i want a setup very similar to this(scrog, CO2, 4000w, 4 screens 12 plants), i like your go big or go home attitude lol. hope the recovery keeps going well and fast so you have more time to perfect these rooms!
thanks brotha ya ive always been about go big or go home 120% effort always nuthin less, money is usually the issue as well but ive done all my vehicles as show trucks too and i expect nuthin less from myself regarding growing either. invested a lot into this but still less then the $120k ive spent over time with a couple diff vehicles that dont ever produce financial results. at least this grow is for a good cause and def worth the investment.
the reovery is goin well thanks for the best wishes

KICK ASS SET-UP!!! I would expect nothing less from you though man. You got me thinking about my room now. are those 4x8 trays or 3x6? Also is that a 50 gal res per tray? I really like the idea of the rollers on the tables. I am going to copy your design for sure on that one and with the pool liner over plywood or osb too. Great idea. You got that shit dialed man. I am glad you are right in front of me on the set-up that way I can steel all your great ideas. lol
That sucks about having to remove the ligament completley man, what does that do to your mobility or do you know yet?

brotha i gotta give u credit as well ur setup is wat i used to mirror this grow setup into a larger setup. all i did was blow urs up haha. and made my own twists of course 8)

the hydrofarm tables are 4'x8' (go big or go home rite? 8) ) and i have 2 70gallon feed rez underneath the tables and a 200gallon reverse osmosis rez in the garage below (yes i said 200 gallons... 8) )

the caster wheels work fukn great and the table supports were done with lag bolts and strong enough to support my weight easy.

my mobility is shot as is but missing the meniscus im not sure wat will happen cuz i went into surgery being told they were fixing it, not takin it out, thats just how fuckd up my knees are from car accidents sports snowboarding and work accidents. so ill let u know but def gonna have my knees replaced arund 40 im sure. im only 24 now so its a long road im on... dispite my setbaks i try to stay positive and thank god for the life im blessed with and all the soldiers risking hteir lives for me to be forest gump at home haha.

That's one beast setup bro!

What is that, 6" ducting feeding into an 8" trunk line? Man I hope you got one hell of a bitchin' fan to pull all that air!
the duct work is aluminum flex duct. intake from the window is 10" ducting mounted to 2 10" max fans (1075cfm each) then the 10" is hooked to "t-Ys" and splits to each lamp with an 8" flex duct and 90degree mounts to cool the lights then exhausted out a seperate window. the ducting out of the hood is 8" then hooks to more "T-Ys" and funneled together into 10" flew ducting and exhausted out the window.


Great explanation Bro. I do understand for the most part how the sealed room works, I have heard however of exhausting a couple times during the lights off, since most of the time the CO2 is not running then anyway. I just wonder if it would be beneficial to replace the air while they are sleeping or if it doesn;t matter. Thanks again for the detailed explanation man.
see my sidenote at bottom of post


...yeah, this is crazy...right now I'm in FFOF, using my organic teas....I've been doing this for a couple years now using freash air, and I get some stinky, sticky, nasty, nugs...but, only 3/4 elbow per 600w HPS...I'm trying to get over a bow...you already know...who don't want more, right? I kept my temps 85-90, the temps stayed around 78 - 80 while the lights were off though (using a CD-6 co2 burner w/ monitor caused heat constantly)....

...idk man, I'm puzzled. They are fluffy as hell, but...just don't have the same funk to them....tonight was supposed to be my harvest night (8 wks) I posted pics in my journal, they look stupid sticky, but...nothing like normal.... all the trichs are clear/cloudy still yet....I have the feeling somewhere along the line, too much co2 will stunt our shit man....I chat elsewhere ya know, a guy told me that co2 makes the plants put all their energy into producing size, and slacks elsewhere! ...they forsure made a hell of alot more pistils....idk, I'm stuck like Chuck!:sad:
if theyre not all milky white trichs with no amber trichs showing i would wait to harvest them. pay close attention everyday to the trichs. let the plant tell u when its done


lovely setup boom mate, would u say the acustic ducting works?
glad u could stop by mr west. been a while. not sure what u mean by acustic ducting but in the air conditioning trade here we refer to it as "aluminum flex ducting" its insullated and has a thick plastic core that is air tight and mounted with nylon bands to the sheetmetal ducting. (also known as huge ass zipties)


Fuckin subscribed you have some nice journals mang!!
glad u could stop by and pull up a chair. shits about to go off

Hi, I'm subscribed... Hope you are feeling better soon....:eyesmoke:

Laceygirl...:-)
always good to see sum ladies on here. glad u could stop by and check in. stay tuned for the new thread post coming
:weed:


:weed:

SIDENOTE;
THE ROOM IS COMPLETELY SEALED AND ANY C02 ROOM SHOULD BE SEALED ALWAYS. I AM RUNNING A HUGE AIR COOLED LIGHTING DUCT SYSTEM TO LOWER MY LAMPS CLOSER TO THE CANOPY, THE DUCTWORK IS NOT TO EXHAUST ANY AIR FROM OR INTO THE ROOM AT ANYTIME. I DO NOT BELIEVE IN EXHAUSTING A C02 ROOM AND WASTING 1000+SQFT OF C02 THEN HAVING TO REFILL THAT ENTIRE SPACE. TO ME ITS A WASTE. FRESH REPLACEMENT AIR CAN BE DONE EASILY BY OPENNING THE DOOR AND EXCHANGE STAGNANT AIR. YES FOR THOSE FEW MINS PESTS CAN ENTER BUT ANY GOOD GARNDER IS PREPARED TO DO BATTLE WITH ANYTHING THAT COMES THEIR WAY. TEMPS FOR A C02 ROOM SHOULD B AT 85 OR WITHIN THAT RANGE. I AM RUNNING A C02 GENERTAOR WHICH GIVES OFF HEAT AND HUMIDITY AS A BYPRODUCT WHICH I ANITCIPATED. IDK WHY IM WRITING IN CAPS BUT IT LLOKS GOOD TO ME LOL.
 

BooMeR242

Well-Known Member
lol so heres the videos as promised. today im gonna work on a detailed new journal to start fresh with all the correct specs info etc.


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gumball

Well-Known Member
i tell you what, your pretty cool man! like you probably need it, +rep for the very meticulous detail you take in all your grows. your patients are well rewarded!
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
thanks

:weed:

SIDENOTE;
THE ROOM IS COMPLETELY SEALED AND ANY C02 ROOM SHOULD BE SEALED ALWAYS. I AM RUNNING A HUGE AIR COOLED LIGHTING DUCT SYSTEM TO LOWER MY LAMPS CLOSER TO THE CANOPY, THE DUCTWORK IS NOT TO EXHAUST ANY AIR FROM OR INTO THE ROOM AT ANYTIME. I DO NOT BELIEVE IN EXHAUSTING A C02 ROOM AND WASTING 1000+SQFT OF C02 THEN HAVING TO REFILL THAT ENTIRE SPACE. TO ME ITS A WASTE. FRESH REPLACEMENT AIR CAN BE DONE EASILY BY OPENNING THE DOOR AND EXCHANGE STAGNANT AIR. YES FOR THOSE FEW MINS PESTS CAN ENTER BUT ANY GOOD GARNDER IS PREPARED TO DO BATTLE WITH ANYTHING THAT COMES THEIR WAY. TEMPS FOR A C02 ROOM SHOULD B AT 85 OR WITHIN THAT RANGE. I AM RUNNING A C02 GENERTAOR WHICH GIVES OFF HEAT AND HUMIDITY AS A BYPRODUCT WHICH I ANITCIPATED. IDK WHY IM WRITING IN CAPS BUT IT LLOKS GOOD TO ME LOL.
Sounds good Boomer, but there are a couple of points that you may or may not have considered.

1) I run a sealed room in my flowering tent (virtually identical setup to you, Sentinel with tanks in the summer and your same generator in the winter), and the humidity is generally not a problem with lights on, as relative humidity is a function of water and temp, so temps being in the 85F increases the amount of water the air can hold, which decreases the relative humidity (inverse relationship between temp and relative humidity).

That being said, a completely sealed environment NEEDS a dehumidifier for dark period, otherwise your RH will skyrocket to 75%+ (assuming temps get down to 70F), which is basically petri dish conditions for mold.

Now if you're running an AC constantly, that will remove much of the moisture in the air, but when it gets cold enough to not have to run the AC, you're gonna have some issues.

A dehumidifier that would handle that moisture level that you'd need (75+ pints a day) is gonna draw about 1000watts-ish, and isn't gonna be too kind to your electric bill.

Much more electricity-usage friendly would be to install a medium sized exhaust fan and a small to medium sized intake fan, simply to run at night - plants don't need CO2 at night, and actually consume O2 and give off CO2 (same as humans) during the dark cycle when they're not performing photosynthesis.

So as you can see, there's really no benefit to "keeping" that CO2 in there - plus, CO2 (propane, for me and you) is cheap, whereas electricity is expensive as fuck with your "tiered" payscale.

Sorry for the long-winded post.

Also, we don't really need to worry about pests with CO2 - if I see any of the fuckers, I just bump the CO2 up to 5000+ PPMs for an hour or two and those fuckers are killed dead in their tracks - just another advantage of CO2.

EDIT: one more thing (I know, I know) - not sure what kinda measurements are going on with that table frame that you're building, but make sure you put a support under the center of it - I thought I was the shit because I built (what I thought was) a professional frame outta 2x4s, only to realize that when it flooded the center sagged immensely and it didn't drain properly.
 

BooMeR242

Well-Known Member
Sounds good Boomer, but there are a couple of points that you may or may not have considered.

1) I run a sealed room in my flowering tent (virtually identical setup to you, Sentinel with tanks in the summer and your same generator in the winter), and the humidity is generally not a problem with lights on, as relative humidity is a function of water and temp, so temps being in the 85F increases the amount of water the air can hold, which decreases the relative humidity (inverse relationship between temp and relative humidity).

That being said, a completely sealed environment NEEDS a dehumidifier for dark period, otherwise your RH will skyrocket to 75%+ (assuming temps get down to 70F), which is basically petri dish conditions for mold.

Now if you're running an AC constantly, that will remove much of the moisture in the air, but when it gets cold enough to not have to run the AC, you're gonna have some issues.

A dehumidifier that would handle that moisture level that you'd need (75+ pints a day) is gonna draw about 1000watts-ish, and isn't gonna be too kind to your electric bill.

Much more electricity-usage friendly would be to install a medium sized exhaust fan and a small to medium sized intake fan, simply to run at night - plants don't need CO2 at night, and actually consume O2 and give off CO2 (same as humans) during the dark cycle when they're not performing photosynthesis.

So as you can see, there's really no benefit to "keeping" that CO2 in there - plus, CO2 (propane, for me and you) is cheap, whereas electricity is expensive as fuck with your "tiered" payscale.

Sorry for the long-winded post.

Also, we don't really need to worry about pests with CO2 - if I see any of the fuckers, I just bump the CO2 up to 5000+ PPMs for an hour or two and those fuckers are killed dead in their tracks - just another advantage of CO2.

EDIT: one more thing (I know, I know) - not sure what kinda measurements are going on with that table frame that you're building, but make sure you put a support under the center of it - I thought I was the shit because I built (what I thought was) a professional frame outta 2x4s, only to realize that when it flooded the center sagged immensely and it didn't drain properly.

damn now im more stoked about running c02 thanks bob 8) i tried to rep but i gotta spread it around.

5000ppm is toxic for humans but as long as im not in there its fine with me to kill the bugs. awesome to know.

i now see wat peeps have prob been tryin to get at in this thread; c02 rooms require a sealed room so c02 doesnt get wasted, buuut at the same time u have a great point about the night cycle. humidity didnt worry me cuz my AC will run enough to keep it in check and the temps are high enough i should b fine. but i ddint anticipate for night time temps and humidity. thanks for the heasup! def gonna have to make sum tweaks now, i like the idea of running an exhaust fan to suck out the humidity and stale air also refreshes the room like others have been mentioning to me. issue is idk where to do the exhaust haha. maybe ill pik up a dehumidfiier idk ill weigh my options. problem is power is gettin tapped out for sure and my bill is gonna b over $600/month easy im sure. so we will see what i come up with. thansk again tho!
 

BooMeR242

Well-Known Member
oh and btw guys ive moved over to another forum site as well as RIU. i still like RIU best it has lots more trffic and peeps that like to discuss shit. but if u wanna follow my grow journal or expand ur network, jump on over to the other site and join me, raiderfan, and jackmayoffer. ive been followin jack since last year, he inspired me to go big and do this setup. he buys from greencoast as well as i. hes doin 60x1000w vertical lamps with 20tons of AC. i shit my pants when i saw the setup. gotta say im jealous. but anyways the site is supposedly for more serious and bigger growers but im gonna b on here chillin with all the friends ive made and the peeps who have helped me out alot. plus i gotta give bak to the community 8)
 

sagensour

Active Member
Great explanation Bro. I do understand for the most part how the sealed room works, I have heard however of exhausting a couple times during the lights off, since most of the time the CO2 is not running then anyway. I just wonder if it would be beneficial to replace the air while they are sleeping or if it doesn;t matter. Thanks again for the detailed explanation man.

Gotta exhaust atleast 3 times in 12 hour dark period when your plants are releaseing gases. If not, Ive seen mushrroms grow on media from not exhausting enough. Your room is fine boomer. You say that your pops is in HVAC, I would just hook up 24volt dampers,transformer,relay and timer. Then at night, the damper will open and the fan will dump gassed air out. Dont suffocate em
 

haze2

Well-Known Member
Boomer not trying to Jack by no meens just posting some good info. I can vouch for the mushrooms growing in the media, I dont understand why I exhaust with 450 cfm pumping in and 155 cfm fan pumping out they stay on for minimum 10 minutes every hour. I think my canopy was so thick that I wasnt able to vent anything below it, I bought a nice hevay duty floor fan that now sits in front of everything and blows at bucket level. I have not seen anything growing yet. Its been about 1 week. Haze2
 

BooMeR242

Well-Known Member
plz do not post in this thread anymore. the link to the new grow journal is in a link at the top of the page in my post or click my sig.

i am using rockwool medium im not sure the mushroom theory will apply especially with algae covers but thanks for headsup guys
 
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