Drunkinop420
Active Member
GREEN with Envy! Very nice, cruzer! craftsmanship looks great! sub'. I'm pretty handy myself, so I'll try to add suggestions and advice... but seems like you've got most of your plans thought-out well!
My Growitup GreenHouse. Under construction.
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PANGcake
Active Member
Hi cruzer!
Nice work, I've seen some other threads on DIY greenhouse and yours is by far looking the best, well planned and everything. Gaaah I wish I lived in a house w a garden
I don't know if my input is woth anything at this point, but I've made a patio together with a craftsman, well he did most of the job and I observed to learn
First off my dad (this was some time ago when I lived at home) contracted a craftsman to "build" the patio only to contract another one few days later...
The first one came to work on the patio w a 6-pack of beer in hes hands, 2 days later almost nothing had happened and he was fired.
The second craftsman to be contracted was serious. First he put "edge stones" dug down half into the ground, pretty much like a curb, for the patio not to "move" horizontal due to settings. Then he dug up all the sand that the first dude had filled only to first put a layer of "small stones". When I use google translate it says it's called silicon in english. Then he put a good 2-3 inch of sand and started laying the patio. He said to use the "silicon" first then sand to make it a lot more stable and resistant to settings. It gets below 0C here in the winter and the frost sometimes makes settings. Also I noticed he used A LOT of sand to fill in the "cracks" and when he was done there was sand all over the patio, could hardly see the patio only sand. I asked him why he didn't "sweep it up" and he said to leave it first few weeks cuz the sand in the cracks will get compact and to keep evening it out the excess sand should be moved around over the first weeks to "fill it up".
Remeber this is only what I've been told by one craftsman, I guess you don't need to be as meticulous with the sand and silicon if you live in a "warm" place where there's no frost, but pour some more sand on top of your patio and keep filling the cracks over the next weeks you're building and it will be more stable.
GL with that beautiful DIY greenhouse. I'm jelaous
//peace, CaL
Nice work, I've seen some other threads on DIY greenhouse and yours is by far looking the best, well planned and everything. Gaaah I wish I lived in a house w a garden
I don't know if my input is woth anything at this point, but I've made a patio together with a craftsman, well he did most of the job and I observed to learn
First off my dad (this was some time ago when I lived at home) contracted a craftsman to "build" the patio only to contract another one few days later...
The first one came to work on the patio w a 6-pack of beer in hes hands, 2 days later almost nothing had happened and he was fired.
The second craftsman to be contracted was serious. First he put "edge stones" dug down half into the ground, pretty much like a curb, for the patio not to "move" horizontal due to settings. Then he dug up all the sand that the first dude had filled only to first put a layer of "small stones". When I use google translate it says it's called silicon in english. Then he put a good 2-3 inch of sand and started laying the patio. He said to use the "silicon" first then sand to make it a lot more stable and resistant to settings. It gets below 0C here in the winter and the frost sometimes makes settings. Also I noticed he used A LOT of sand to fill in the "cracks" and when he was done there was sand all over the patio, could hardly see the patio only sand. I asked him why he didn't "sweep it up" and he said to leave it first few weeks cuz the sand in the cracks will get compact and to keep evening it out the excess sand should be moved around over the first weeks to "fill it up".
Remeber this is only what I've been told by one craftsman, I guess you don't need to be as meticulous with the sand and silicon if you live in a "warm" place where there's no frost, but pour some more sand on top of your patio and keep filling the cracks over the next weeks you're building and it will be more stable.
GL with that beautiful DIY greenhouse. I'm jelaous
//peace, CaL
Cool, as long as there is some presure then Im good. I got one under the sink in the kitchen but it drains right there. This drain line I want to run out the greenhouse, verticaly about 15 feet the up the side of the house and under the eves to the other side of the house and back down. about a 200 foot run.
Hey Drunkin, Thanks man, Just playing it by ear ya know? I could always use new ideas, pull up a chair and pass that dam thing will ya?
No kidding, thats some craftsmanship there.Hi cruzer!
Nice work, I've seen some other threads on DIY greenhouse and yours is by far looking the best, well planned and everything. Gaaah I wish I lived in a house w a garden
I don't know if my input is woth anything at this point, but I've made a patio together with a craftsman, well he did most of the job and I observed to learn
First off my dad (this was some time ago when I lived at home) contracted a craftsman to "build" the patio only to contract another one few days later...
The first one came to work on the patio w a 6-pack of beer in hes hands, 2 days later almost nothing had happened and he was fired.
The second craftsman to be contracted was serious. First he put "edge stones" dug down half into the ground, pretty much like a curb, for the patio not to "move" horizontal due to settings. Then he dug up all the sand that the first dude had filled only to first put a layer of "small stones". When I use google translate it says it's called silicon in english. Then he put a good 2-3 inch of sand and started laying the patio. He said to use the "silicon" first then sand to make it a lot more stable and resistant to settings. It gets below 0C here in the winter and the frost sometimes makes settings. Also I noticed he used A LOT of sand to fill in the "cracks" and when he was done there was sand all over the patio, could hardly see the patio only sand. I asked him why he didn't "sweep it up" and he said to leave it first few weeks cuz the sand in the cracks will get compact and to keep evening it out the excess sand should be moved around over the first weeks to "fill it up".
Remeber this is only what I've been told by one craftsman, I guess you don't need to be as meticulous with the sand and silicon if you live in a "warm" place where there's no frost, but pour some more sand on top of your patio and keep filling the cracks over the next weeks you're building and it will be more stable.
GL with that beautiful DIY greenhouse. I'm jelaous
//peace, CaL
I dont get and frost here its a very mild climate but I will shore up the outsides of the floor. Thanks.
Yes, I see the sand I put in between the bricks is half gone already. I planned on getting some to toss around the edge of the floor, looks like I will get extra.
I didnt get much done today but I did get the lumber painted.
The 2x6 is the center beam
This is how I anchored the bottom to the concrete
Now I can see what I need for rafters.
That 2x2 im just using as a measuring stick but after looking at it I think I can get away with a 2x3 rafters. they will only be 6 feet long.
Can you span a 2x4 12 feet as a beam and use 2x3's as rafters?
I was thinking 2x6 and 2x4's but now that seems a bit much.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
errr what will be the clearance from the roofline of the greenhouse to the bottom of the power company's service drop (wire from transformer on pole going to your house)??
you might have a problem man... service drops are not supposed to travel over rooftops of buildings they do not supply power to. you might be able to get away with it if the highest point of the roofline of your greenhouse is 6 feet or greater from the power company line... its not the smaller phone and cable drops to the right in the pic, but the larger triplex thats attatched to the mast on your roof that is the cause for concern. maybe its just an illusion/forced perception, but it looks pretty close from that angle. hope it just looks that way... not trying to be alarmist but it brought up an immediate red flag for me.
you might have a problem man... service drops are not supposed to travel over rooftops of buildings they do not supply power to. you might be able to get away with it if the highest point of the roofline of your greenhouse is 6 feet or greater from the power company line... its not the smaller phone and cable drops to the right in the pic, but the larger triplex thats attatched to the mast on your roof that is the cause for concern. maybe its just an illusion/forced perception, but it looks pretty close from that angle. hope it just looks that way... not trying to be alarmist but it brought up an immediate red flag for me.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
12' span?Cool, as long as there is some presure then Im good. I got one under the sink in the kitchen but it drains right there. This drain line I want to run out the greenhouse, verticaly about 15 feet the up the side of the house and under the eves to the other side of the house and back down. about a 200 foot run.
Hey Drunkin, Thanks man, Just playing it by ear ya know? I could always use new ideas, pull up a chair and pass that dam thing will ya?
No kidding, thats some craftsmanship there.
I dont get and frost here its a very mild climate but I will shore up the outsides of the floor. Thanks.
Yes, I see the sand I put in between the bricks is half gone already. I planned on getting some to toss around the edge of the floor, looks like I will get extra.
I didnt get much done today but I did get the lumber painted.
The 2x6 is the center beam
This is how I anchored the bottom to the concrete
Now I can see what I need for rafters.
That 2x2 im just using as a measuring stick but after looking at it I think I can get away with a 2x3 rafters. they will only be 6 feet long.
Can you span a 2x4 12 feet as a beam and use 2x3's as rafters?
I was thinking 2x6 and 2x4's but now that seems a bit much.
2x6 for sure.
2x4 will sag, even with heavy cross bracing, and you dont want heavy cross bracing blocking sunlight.. you could build 2x4 trusses, but again the lower section of the truss will block light and take up space inside the greenhouse.
Thanks man, thats why I share with people, so I dont do something stupid like it seems I have.
I went out there and measured looks like I can clear the six foot from top to wire but it still runs over it.
How could I tell if I "might" be able to get away with it? any code I can look up or something?
2x6 huh? yea, I thought so. just trying to cut down on the shadows.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
yeah theres 2 NEC articles that apply-
but theres a loophole if you pitch your roof correctly... this so a person cannot set a laddor or stool on the roof and do something stupid...
you might be able to get awy with alternating 2x4 and 2x6... cut down on shadows a little bit
Fig. 4. For 120/208V or 120/240V circuits, conductor clearance can be 18 inches, if no more than 6 feet of conductor pass over no more than 4 feet of roof.
but theres a loophole if you pitch your roof correctly... this so a person cannot set a laddor or stool on the roof and do something stupid...
you might be able to get awy with alternating 2x4 and 2x6... cut down on shadows a little bit
Service drop conductors that run over roofs must maintain a minimum clearance of 8 feet above the roof surface, for a minimum distance of 3 feet in all directions from the edge of the roof. Four exceptions exist:
- Apply the final grade clearances, if the area above the roof has pedestrian or vehicular traffic.
- For 120/208V or 120/240V service-drop conductors, overhead conductor clearances from the roof can be reduced 3 feet if the slope of the roof exceeds 4 inches for every 12 inches.
- For 120/208V or 120/240V service-drop conductors, conductor clearance over the roof overhang can be reduced to 18 inches if no more than 6 feet of overhead conductors pass over no more than 4 feet of roof (Fig. 4).
- 4) The 3-foot vertical clearance that extends from the roof doesn't apply when the point of attachment is on the side of the building below the roof.
Hum, ok The roof I have in mind looks like this
Well, I went and measured again in the daylight. Looks like 5'10" from the peak.
The end of the greedhouse roof is 7 feet from the roof of the house.
So I went online and found out a little about the pitch of a roof.
As it is, I go up 4.5 inches every foot so 4.5 / 12 right?
(yea, I know I cut the 4x4 off 1/2 in short, Im gonna fill it)
If I understand this correctly "For 120/208V or 120/240V service-drop conductors, overhead conductor clearances from the roof can be reduced 3 feet if the slope of the roof exceeds 4 inches for every 12 inches." then I am within the code by 1/2 in. Right?
Well, I went and measured again in the daylight. Looks like 5'10" from the peak.
The end of the greedhouse roof is 7 feet from the roof of the house.
So I went online and found out a little about the pitch of a roof.
As it is, I go up 4.5 inches every foot so 4.5 / 12 right?
(yea, I know I cut the 4x4 off 1/2 in short, Im gonna fill it)
If I understand this correctly "For 120/208V or 120/240V service-drop conductors, overhead conductor clearances from the roof can be reduced 3 feet if the slope of the roof exceeds 4 inches for every 12 inches." then I am within the code by 1/2 in. Right?
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IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
well it's like the ladies say... sometimes a 1/2" makes all the differenceHum, ok The roof I have in mind looks like this
Well, I went and measured again in the daylight. Looks like 5'10" from the peak.
The end of the greedhouse roof is 7 feet from the roof of the house.
So I went online and found out a little about the pitch of a roof.
As it is, I go up 4.5 inches every foot so 4.5 / 12 right?
(yea, I know I cut the 4x4 off 1/2 in short, Im gonna fill it)
If I understand this correctly "For 120/208V or 120/240V service-drop conductors, overhead conductor clearances from the roof can be reduced 3 feet if the slope of the roof exceeds 4 inches for every 12 inches." then I am within the code by 1/2 in. Right?
in your case, the half inch makes the difference. glad it worked out i would have felt like a total dick if not.
PANGcake
Active Member
It's comin on nicely Good you have electrician to help cuz that sh*t looks scary, all dem hanging power lines...over here I think it's all in the ground, never seen power lines like that here, but your bakk yard is nothing to compared to Bangkok 
You spent 925$ so far? Compare your size to indoor you gonna save up that money in 2-3 months on electric bills
Happy easter!
//CaL
Good you have electrician to help cuz that sh*t looks scary, all dem hanging power lines...over here I think it's all in the ground, never seen power lines like that here, but your bakk yard is nothing to compared to Bangkok You spent 925$ so far? Compare your size to indoor you gonna save up that money in 2-3 months on electric bills
Happy easter!
//CaL
Yea man, They built these houses before they went underground. They are about 35 years old. I didnt realise there were so many wires out there either. Power, phone and cable to each house. Poles run along the back of the yard so its not real noticible from out front.It's comin on nicely
You spent 925$ so far? Compare your size to indoor you gonna save up that money in 2-3 months on electric bills
Happy easter!
//CaL
Thats the plan Stan.
I got the rafter lumber today, went with 2x4's so another stop at home depot. $80 to the bill, puts it at an even grand. I didnt get a chance to paint the lumber today but I got the siding done.
If you look close you can see where I staked the brick towards the back to help keep the floor in place. Good idea.
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Hey Doe, Thanks.
Yea I have four or five 4x8 sheets of 1" thick styrofoam insulation. Some calking and three cans of great stuff (thats the name) it fills small holes and cracks. The short wall will heat up being right on the cement. That will be insulated year round for sure. Then the back wall with the vents will have drop down panels to seal them off.
The roofing material and the rest of the sides are going to be that corrugated patio cover stuff for now. Clear on the top and white on the sides, cant really insulate that besides filling the cracks. The front wall frame will most likely be modified in the future, removing three of the 2x4's making 4x4 openings. I need them now cause my panels ar 24" wide.
Once I get the right size glass for it I'll probably get thicker, flat polycarbonate panels for the roof, then I can insulate it better.
Yea I have four or five 4x8 sheets of 1" thick styrofoam insulation. Some calking and three cans of great stuff (thats the name) it fills small holes and cracks. The short wall will heat up being right on the cement. That will be insulated year round for sure. Then the back wall with the vents will have drop down panels to seal them off.
The roofing material and the rest of the sides are going to be that corrugated patio cover stuff for now. Clear on the top and white on the sides, cant really insulate that besides filling the cracks. The front wall frame will most likely be modified in the future, removing three of the 2x4's making 4x4 openings. I need them now cause my panels ar 24" wide.
Once I get the right size glass for it I'll probably get thicker, flat polycarbonate panels for the roof, then I can insulate it better.
purplebibble
Member
i was here!
Welcome Mystic, pull up a chair.looking great iam subscribing
I saw you! Thanks for droppin in.
tea tree
Well-Known Member
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/Corrugated-Foam-Closures/productinfo/PC-CL-H/
here is an idea I dont know if you have. However at lowes they makes these out of wood for a substantially less amount of money. Like 10 dollars I think most. Also they are long. YOu line the top of the greenhouse with these strips and they have grooves to put the corrugated panels on so that there are no cracks. However make sure you seel them if you use wood as they warp in the weather. GL. I apolgise if yu know this already.
here is an idea I dont know if you have. However at lowes they makes these out of wood for a substantially less amount of money. Like 10 dollars I think most. Also they are long. YOu line the top of the greenhouse with these strips and they have grooves to put the corrugated panels on so that there are no cracks. However make sure you seel them if you use wood as they warp in the weather. GL. I apolgise if yu know this already.
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