Cutting fan leaves

spyvy

Well-Known Member
Seen alot of input on this .. Alot of Confusion on this subject ...I Did alot of research on this and this is what I found . I am trying it on this Grow

So read this info I found and It can go both ways ...... see If it helps or Just more stuff LO<L:sleep::bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint:

reading infomation



should fan leaves be trimmed?
Should Fan Leaves be Trimmed?

There are a number of theories why fan leaves should or should not be removed. The purpose of this paper is to analyze cannabis cultivation techniques that advocate for and against fan leaf removal. A summary of each theory is presented, followed by a review of fan leaf function. The different theories advocating for and against the removal of fan leaves are then discussed in the context of fan leaf function and cultivation techniques.

THEORIES WHY TO TRIM FAN LEAVES Increase Lower Bud Development The fan leaves shade lower buds and that these buds do not develop to there full potential because of a reduction in lighting intensity due to shading from upper fan leaves. To conserve energy for upper bud development Trimming fan leaves and lower, shaded branches focuses the plant&#8217;s development on main top buds (Che Bleu, 03. 13.2002). A plant wastes precious energy several ways. A tall plant needs to use energy to build extra stem, and then use extra energy to move water up higher, this is why I believe "scrog" methods are productive. An untrimmed bushy plant causes the plant to expend energy to build elaborate branches and leaves, and then has to use excess energy to supply all these structures. Careful trimming to remove unnecessary branches (which wont produce nice buds) and unproductive suckers will leave more energy for a larger yield. Suckers do exactly as their name suggests, they suck needless energy from the plant which can be put to better use, towards yield (Leaf, 03.13.2002). Reduce the Stretch If fan leaves are trimmed during the early flowering stage, the stretch is reduced (Che Bleu, 03.13.2002). Reducing the stretch might be advantageous in certain cultivation conditions. Speeding Up The Flushing Process Remove some of the fan leaves 14 days before harvest. It helps speed up the flushing process and or makes flushing unnecessary (Homemadepot, 03.13.2002). Reduce The Chance of Mould Removal of dead fan leaves is necessary to reduce the risk of mould. Failing to "clear the airway" can lead to development of mould in the "crowded" areas of the plant (Jeast, 03.13.2002). Scrog growers may also reduce the chance of mould by removing fan leaves due to reduce the level of transpiration. This is because many scrog grows are in a confined space where humidity is a serious problem (DoctorDangerous, 09.04.2002). However with better ventilation it may be necessary to avoid the mould problem (Nietzsche, 09.04.2002). Increase root development on Clones Fan leaves on clones should have their blades cut in half, to make the clone grow slowly while a root system develops (Weezil, 03.12.2002).

HOW DO FAN LEAVES FUNCTION The large fan leaves have a definite function in the growth and development of cannabis. Large leaves serve as photosynthetic factories for the production of sugars and other necessary growth substances. Most cannabis plants begin to lose their larger leaves when they enter the flowering stage and this trend continues on until senescence (death of the plant). Fan leaves account for the greatest area for the reception of photons on a plant, thus they account for the majority of photosynthesis which occurs within a plant. Cells in the plant's leaves, called chloroplasts, contain a green pigment called chlorophyll which interacts with sunlight to split the water in the plant into its basic components. Leaves only absorb about 15% of the solar energy that hits them, the other 85% passes through-- but they reflect all the green light, which means it looks darker below the leaf to a human than it does to the plant because our eyes are most sensitive to the green spectrum (Shipperke, 03.15.2002). Photosynthesis occurs in all green parts of plants. The process has two stages, the light reactions and the Calvin cycle, that convert water and carbon dioxide into sugar and oxygen. These sugars are later used to power all the processes in the plant, including the synthesis of THC and other cannabinoids (Shipperke, 04.02.2002; Ca, 03.13.2002). Fan leaves possess the greatest number of stomata, which are small pores or valves on the underside of the leaf which water vapor and carbon dioxide diffuse during transpiration and photosynthesis (carbon fixation). Carbon dioxide first enters the leaf through the stomata and combines with the stored energy in the chloroplasts through a chemical reaction (the Calvin cycle) to produce a simple sugar. This sugar is unloaded into the tissues and transported through tubes in the leaf to supply the synthesized food to other plant parts such as growing or respiring tissues like young leaves, roots, and flowers of the plant. meristems (UK Tricky Knome, 03.14.2002). Removal of fan leaves will not only slow growth, but it will also hinder the plants ability to rid itself of toxic gases, and also hinder the regulation of the plants temperature via stomata. Changes in the plants chemical metabolism caused by fan leave removal causes the plant to work overtime to rid &#8216;toxins&#8217; with less leaves, as a result the pant may allocate more growth hormones into growing more leaves to make up for what has been lost(Equator, 03.15.2002). Removing large amounts of fan leaves may also interfere with the metabolic balance of the plant. Leaf removal may also cause sex reversal resulting from a metabolic imbalance.

There is a relationship regarding the amount of carbohydrates a leaf produces and CO2 intake relative to outside forces. When you have a situation whereby the leaf is no longer productive for the plant for whatever reason that may be - low light, old age, disease, insect attack etc, the plant will discard it. (Thunderbunny as citied, by Nietzsche, 03.13.2002. Plants have two different kinds of vessels in their stems to move stuff around, xylem and phloem. Xylem runs from the roots up the stem carrying water and nutrients. Phloem runs both up and down to move sugars hormones, proteins, etc but mostly sugars. Each part of the plant can be either a sugar source or a sugar sink (Shipperke, 03. 15.2002). Phloem moves from sources (areas of supply) to sinks (areas of metabolism or storage). Granted that the flowers can produce some photosynthate, but they are no where near as effective as fan leaves (resin glands significantly reduce light to the tissue they are found on). Flowers are sink tissues, leaves are source tissues. Sinks do not produce enough photosynthate, and are importers. Sources give photosynthate to sinks in closest proximity. Upper leaves bring sucrose to shoot apical meristem and young leaves while lower leaves bring goodies to roots (UK Tricky Knome, 03.17.2002). Remove the source and the sink will be affected (Diels Alder, 03.15.2002). The leaves at the top of a plant tend to supply the top growing shoots. The leaves at the bottom of the plant tend to supply the roots. The middle leaves can go either way as the demand changes. During flowering and fruiting, only the very bottom leaves supply the roots and the rest of the leaves try to get as much energy as possible to the flowers of fruits. For this reason, the more leaves are unshaded and in good light, the more chance the plant has of creating extra storage of energy that will ultimately go into yield (Leaf, 03.13.2002). However Jeast (03.13.02) believes that the rich green leaves emerging from the bud are a sufficient energy source of solar energy for the plant's floral development. Therefore the old fan leaves are once again rendered useless and only drain energy from the developing part of the plant (Jeast, 03.13.02). Fan leaves store mobile nutrients, these stored nutrients are essential in the later stages of flowering. When flushing a plant the fan leaves will lose their color quickly. This is because the nutrients are being mobilized to the atypical meristem (grow tip, bud site). Draining your fan leaves with a flushing period will increase floral development (Ca, 13. 03.2002). Fan leaves therefore serve as a nutrient deficiency buffer zone for the plant (Higstar, 03. 13.2002). Nutrient burn usually causes bottom leaves begin to die however DaGnome (03.15.2002) observed that if you do not remove the leaves then they will absorb damage as premature removal generally results in more leaf loss. However if growing hydroponically under ideal conditions it could be argued that fan leaves serve as a nutrient buffer is a moot point.

WHEN AND WHAT TO TRIM IF AT ALL To trim or not to trim that is the question. Try everything for yourself. Try it all ways. (The Crazy Composer, 13.03.2002). Simply put there is no universal answer it depends on how your are growing when where and what you trim (Cardboardbill, 03.13.2002) Genetic Variance Cannabis phenotypes play a large part. A strain with very few leaves and long internodes will need a lot less trimming - if a trimming technique is even adopted. A strain with a surplus of leaves and short internodes would require more thinning to get the same amount of light to the lower buds (The Crazy Composer, 13. 03.2002). Cannabis varieties from high sunshine equatorial areas like thai sativa have thin leaves most likely due to more light than say a indicia plant from afghan regions have wider fan leaves due to less light intensity in their natural environment (Lebman, 03. 20.2002). Remove non productive &#8216;dead&#8217; leaf material Here are some signs to look for when removing foliage. Leaves that have reached their final size and are ageing will stop producing chlorophyll and start changing to a lighter color, often yellowing and showing purple petioles (leaf stems). This is when the leaves' capacity to produce sugars starts to diminish, so they are the ones to take out of the way to allow Sunlight to fall on the younger leaves that are producing at a higher rate. The older leaves, even though larger, are no longer very productive once they are not dark green anymore. By the time they start looking pale or discolored, they are not contributing anything to the plant at all. Obviously, the lower leaves are the oldest and the first to age. Old leaves can be removed at any time they are shading younger ones, but try to never remove a leaf in its expanding stage because it is producing at full power (Leaf, 03.13.2002. Outdoors, fan leaves serve an additional and very important purpose of protecting the buds from the elements and predators. These leaves often become damaged in the course of doing their duty, and will then wither or break off (Jeast, 03.13.02). However depending on the humidity of the growing climate Leaf (03.13.2002) suggests to trim most leaves that show signs of age, are dull in color, yellowing, and obviously any brown or spotted leaves that have bugs or bug damage to prevent mould. To Increase Lower Bud Development Light efficiency decreases with distance. The inverse squared light rule states that illuminance is inversely proportionate to the square of the distance from the light source. Removing the largest area of photosynthesis that is closest to the light source simply to benefit smaller leaves growing out of the but sites that are further away is not logical when growing indoors"(Smokinrav, 03. 15.2002). Cultivating outdoors under the sun, the fan leaves don't create nearly as much shade as they do indoors (~shabang~, 03.13.2002). This is consistent with the inverse squared light rule; the sun is 149,597,890 km away so a few feet has no real effect on intensity. This suggests that a trimming benefit could be achieved outdoors as opposed to indoors however leaves only absorb about 15% of the solar energy that hits them, the other 85% passes through except for green light which is reflected, therefore removal of fan leaves would only provide a 15% increase light transmission outdoors (Shipperke, 03.15.2002).

Jeast (03.12.2002) removes fan leaves that are yellowing or starting to yellow (these are usually on the lower stems) and also mid-stem fan leaves that are shading buds. He always try to retain the upper 2 - 3 sets of fan leaves indoors as he believe they are the ones that are truly "working". The concept of the upper fan leaves doing all the work is consistent with effect of the inverse square rule on lighting intensity indoors and the flow on effect for photosynthesis. In support for trimming HyGradeChronic (03.25.2002) states selective trimming benefits lower floral development, allowing the buds to fill out and tighten up better. However he does mention that humidity must be kept to a minimum as leftover stems from the leaf can develop mould unless kept at optimum humidity. Another flow on effect to leaf trimming mentioned by HydradeChronic is that it takes seven to ten days longer for floral development to finish, but the resulting florescence is at it&#8217;s peak from top to bottom. An alternative to trimming to increase light to lower floral clusters is to use a light mover on a single plant the results are better thanks to the better penetration of light at different angles. Even simple under lighting and side lighting works well to counter fan leaves by adding extra light where it would not normally get (Vapour, 03/13.2002). Increase upper bud development What folks need to focus on is the causes of premature leaf drop as that negatively affects yields. If you've read my posts over the years, I try to pound that issue home whenever given a chance. After a good root development, the most important element in floral production is the retention of healthy leaves (Thunderbunny as citied, by Nietzsche, 03.13.2002). Green Reaper (03.12.2002) suggests that large leaves actually take more energy to maintain than they produce. In contrast Thunderbunny (as citied, by Nietzsche, 03. 13.2002) states that when a leaf no longer serves a productive purpose, the plant will remove the leftover metabolites from the leaf, which causes the old spotty, yellowing, necrotic image and then the leaf drops. Once that leaf is gone, a percentage of what would be available carbohydrates for future plant growth is diminished in direct relationship to the loss. The mobility of plants sugars and nutrients suggests that fully developed fan leaves are sources not sinks. Whether developing fan leaves are a sink or a source however is not as clear. An actively growing leaf may be a sink, using energy from the other parts of the plant to fuel their development (George, 03.20.2002). Older developed leaves and that are sources. However there is no evidence to support that during the plants life cycle the development of fan leaves takes more energy then a fully developed fan leave provides, that is to say sink phase is greater than the source phase (Nietzsche). It would also seem illogical from an evolutionary point of view that a plant would evolve to produce leaves that take more energy to sustain then they produce (~shabang~, 03.13.2002). Trim fan leaves in the last 14 days to help speed up flushing It helps speed up the flushing process and or makes flushing unnecessary (Homemadepot, 03.13.2002). However the leaves should naturally yellow, too much green in the leaves translates to too much "green" taste in the leaves in my opinion (Bigislandbud, 03.14.2002). Reducing the Stretch If trimming fan leaves reduced the stretch it is likely that this occurred because it takes away from the plant's available energy stores and energy generators (~Shabang~, 03.13.2002). This method of reducing the stretch should only be used if absolutely necessary, other options include chemical treatment may be a more viable option.

HOW TO TRIM IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO SO If you decide to trim your fan leaves, one should always do it by clipping the petiole about halfway between the base of the fan leaf and the stem/branch. Allow the remainder of the petiole to dry up and fall off on its own. This will help protect the plant from risks of infections. They should never be stripped or broken off at the base of the petiole as that would be expose more chance of infecting the plant. Petiole is the he foot stalk of a leaf (10k, 03.16.2002) Leaf (03.13.2002) believes that excessive leaf trimming and branch pruning will cause the plant to use extra energy to repair itself. However, trimming must be done from time to time, for the longer a plant is left untrimmed, the more material must be removed at one time, therefore the greater the damage that the plant will need to repair. Do not trim fan leaves during veg either, unless they turn yellow. The first real pruning starts when going into 12/12 (Jeast, 03.13.2002). When trimming and pruning, I try to ensure that I do not cause the plant to 'bleed'. Leaf tries to pinch off shoots and leaves with my fingernails as opposed to leaving a clean cut. One thing to remember is every time you cut into any part of a plant, you are exposing the inside of the plant to fungus and bacteria (Leaf, 03. 13.2002). Tuck instead of trimming Another method is to tuck your fans leaves under to expose the buds, don't forget that even though they wont be getting as much light they are still photosynthesizing and more importantly exchanging gases storing nutrients, and building sugars which the bud then converts into THC and other cannibinoids (Ca, 13. 03.2002) This Synopsis paper, is a consensus of opinions compiled in the Overgrow Growing Consensus forum
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Seen alot of input on this .. Alot of Confusion on this subject ...I Did alot of research on this and this is what I found . I am trying it on this Grow

So read this info I found and It can go both ways ......
Bunch of bullshit.

That's all I'm gonna say about this guy's rant.

UB
 

johnnytoobad

Active Member
more pics to come soon with the experiment. but ive never had plants come back so qquick after a pinch and a tie down. and the only thing i did different was cut the first two sets of fan leaves 50% and its all bag seed sewn dry in shitty sand clay soil......alas i bought an 8th of dro this week and thats why im fucking growing cause the prices are bullshit........hate dope dealers....love dope growers and smokers
 

cannabluntcies

Active Member
Bunch of bullshit.

That's all I'm gonna say about this guy's rant.

UB
Removing fan leaves that shade lower budsites? I thought those pesky things absorbed light which sinked their energy into making that nice fat top cola? Bushy is what you want.... its the lower growth thats too far from the light (even then depends on intensity) doing next to nothing that makes sense to remove. Why on earth would you remove the top fan leaves? Im going to have to agree that some of this is bullshit.

EDIT: and this concept healthy fan leaves become inefficient near the end of flowering at creating ATP is insane. In nature if that were true the moment the fan leaves become a burden the plant would discard them on its own accord, due to evolutionary pressures. In nature if whatever trait it is serves no purpose, or worse is detrimental to that species, it swiftly dies out. If it Serves no purpose it is a waist of otherwise valuable energy.
 
I have a about 15 seedlings that i have been cutting small portions of the fan leafs. but by doing so so early it helps balance the weight of the top leaves and contimue more branch growth as the plant gets bigger. heres some pictures of them...
 

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cannabluntcies

Active Member
I have a about 15 seedlings that i have been cutting small portions of the fan leafs. but by doing so so early it helps balance the weight of the top leaves and contimue more branch growth as the plant gets bigger. heres some pictures of them...
Your training them to grow taller not bushier. Not something desirable for indoors where you want most of the photosynthetic tissues as close and dense to the bulb as possible. What side branch growth, they're seedlings....
 

PANGcake

Active Member
Hi everybody! Plaguedog vs MOFOS 1-0 :mrgreen: I also was one of the "MOFOS" cutting off fan leaves to "promote" budsites...LOL! Leaves are light catchers and I done plants side by side to see how they turned out. Those stripped off fan leaves to "promote" budsites tasted bit harsh, had lots of defeciencies and buds were smaller. Those "left alone", I tucked away only few large fan leaves, kept their green a lot longer in 12/12, only lil defs., A LOT better taste and potency. The large fan leaves are also good to leave for other reasons than to catch light, they take on most off the "heat" when getting burnt or deficient. When I have lollipopped plants due to too much stretch in 12/12 (I use 400W and it doesn't penetrate a 3 feet plant;)) I leave the fan leaves on the bottom till they drop off, as I said before they take on most of the "heat"...
Well said! I've had same results + it seemed to have stressed some plants into self seeding very late in 12/12, didn't happen to any1 of the untouched...leave the plant as it is, if you gonna "remove" anything, remove the lower 1/4 of the plant to fatten up the tops instead of cutting off fan leaves to promote lower situated bud sites. I have plenty of airmovement wich makes the plants move more, I think that also helps to "open" up for more light to budsites that otherwise would be shaded...maybe I'm wrong but looking at the plants moving in the wind seeing the light penetrate and the shadows move, it makes sense ;)

//CaL
 

cannabluntcies

Active Member
Well said! I've had same results + it seemed to have stressed some plants into self seeding very late in 12/12, didn't happen to any1 of the untouched...leave the plant as it is, if you gonna "remove" anything, remove the lower 1/4 of the plant to fatten up the tops instead of cutting off fan leaves to promote lower situated bud sites. I have plenty of airmovement wich makes the plants move more, I think that also helps to "open" up for more light to budsites that otherwise would be shaded...maybe I'm wrong but looking at the plants moving in the wind seeing the light penetrate and the shadows move, it makes sense ;)

//CaL
THANK YOU!!! This member has a clue!

(Granted that the flowers can produce some photosynthate, but they are no where near as effective as fan leaves (resin glands significantly reduce light to the tissue they are found on). Flowers are sink tissues, leaves are source tissues. Sinks do not produce enough photosynthate, and are importers.)

after reading this from the material presented it makes you wonder how the f*** it would go on to tell you to cut the leaves that are shading budsites........... Like wow.
 

spyvy

Well-Known Member
I have removed my lower set`s of large fan leafs on all of my plants 1 week into flowering in a 3 day period of only removing few at a time each day not putting them into shock.,, \\

And leaving the upper`s alone only the bottom 3 or 4 sets of fan leafs only were removed hope to post some pics tomorrow

I have seen a large increase in light getting to the lower part of the plants . The plants are gaining almost an inch a day when in the 12 dark period looking good so far :bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint:

.
 

soohighrightnow

Active Member
anyone ever got there yield off there plant and then put her back into veg for a bit and then into flower and got another yield??? one guy on here did that and the plant looked like a bonzai tree
 

Twentythree

Active Member
i pretty much just bend the fan leaves and tie them up away from the light source.
I figure the energy stored in the leaves is crucial to keeping around, so i like to just bend them out of the way of the light until they turn yellow enough they can fall off on their own or with a little tug. There really is no need to trim if you can just bend and wrap the leaves out of the picture. even if the fan leave is sideways when pulled back and tied to the adjacent leaf, they will keep their nutrients and sacrifice themselves for the good of the buds.
 

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
I ditched plucking and pruning. I just added more fans and switched my setup to a stadium style.
Before you think you have a "green thumb" Try to fix the other things first. Temps and RH%. Upgrade to the better mylar? add more light as they get bigger? Try the other things to increase yeild.
Always use a B1 additive after any sort of stress. You'll be glad you did.
If your plants are already stressd out by something else, fix it.
I only remove the leafs that dont get light. To increase airflow.
If i wanted to gain light levels i would add more light.
How about rotating them once in a while!
This is why i prefer side lighting.
 

johnnytoobad

Active Member
srry its been so long since ive been to my own thread.....an update on my experiment.....out of the 15 or so plants i was experimenting on 10 plus were female......lmao that that would happen when im chopping like paul bunyan.....so ive pulled all but one now because i have no use for all those plants.....one is left, budding nice, and chopped 3 fans last night for the hell of it as i have a plant 3 weeks from harvest, un chopped......the unchopped was tied down a lil a while back and took shape to promota lower branch bud growth.....now she is rotated evryday 90 or so degrees....alas i have a journal in the (duh) journal section that has a true bonsai marijuana plant pic in it.......I might add she is budding and about as tall as a joint.....check it out lemme know what ya think....maybe ill do a bonsai journal in case neone else wants to know the secret.....muwahahah......
 

dankesthours182

Well-Known Member
chill!! he SAID HE WANTED THEM SMALL AND FUCKED UP. but i've seen some good advice in this post... so why think to delete it? just another post... i like the idea. re-experimentation is great. some people have to see everything for themselves
 

johnnytoobad

Active Member
yep small and fucked up. well i managed to get a few pics up of the only one i kept in my journal if ya like to stop by and say hello...mixed in is some flower and bud porn too....as well as a short rider LSTed...so come on take a trip on over and give me some advice on how my stealth is coming. or ponder the bonsai...or look at a properly grown short rider...I honestly think that I must not be at the "cool kids" table at RIU.
somebody anybody respond...god I cant facebook this shit...lmao peace out fellow green thumbs........
and to get to journal click number under journal entries
 

SimplySmoked

Well-Known Member
It is too much stress if you cut all the tips off the palms as they lay out (meaning the leaf opens up)... Stunted and hermied my toture patient. Hope this is of use to you.
 

johnnytoobad

Active Member
It is too much stress if you cut all the tips off the palms as they lay out (meaning the leaf opens up)... Stunted and hermied my toture patient. Hope this is of use to you.
i dont know what u mean. I only cut for first month. Cut i did however. not all at once. my experiment sits at about 11 inches tall. one lil fast developing cola. probrally a 3 gram bud come harvest....now i was thinking.....WHAT IF U CUT OFF ALL THE LOWER/MINOR BUD SITES? TOO MUCH STRESS AT ONCE? I THINK THE MAIN COLA WOULD GET WAY MORE PRODUCTION BUT WOULD THAT BE AT THE COST OF HERMIE? MAYbe ill start a new post "cutting bud sites"
 

deflator

Active Member
This forum is such a joke...

Does an apple in the shade grow any less than one in the sun? You think you can do better than a century of botanists? :o

Look at this pic, 4 buds that developed in ZERO light on the bottom of a dwarf white russian autoflower. These things were in the dirt basically, and were the last buds to start growing, but they grew and would have kept growing had it not been chop time. Now how would they have grown at all, based on your theories, not receiving any light?

 
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