alot of people say.......

genuity

Well-Known Member
i mean i have not dug up all my seeds to see if they are "curling","twistin",or what ever.
and people wonder why their plants are all f#@K UP.
and whats wrong with a plant makein it self strong,thats what we want right.
jus my 2 cents,this subject is sad,at most.
 

JimmyTheJaw

Active Member
i mean i have not dug up all my seeds to see if they are "curling","twistin",or what ever.
and people wonder why their plants are all f#@K UP.
and whats wrong with a plant makein it self strong,thats what we want right.
jus my 2 cents,this subject is sad,at most.

the article says it loses valuble energy when you point the root down, thats why i was asking, if its sad why did you bother wasting your time posting on the subject?
 

RichED

Well-Known Member
i have seen that before and tried it for a while
had a tap come up above surface of soil then went back to my old way of point down no prob since
like someone before me said i think i planted to shallow
bottom line if your germs have been working fine for you dont fix it
if you have been haveing a lot of problems try it see what works best for you
 

JimmyTheJaw

Active Member
what "valuble energy",i posted cause it's an open forum.

not sure what the valuable energy is thats why i was asking, if you read my last post properly you would know that, i know its an open forum but if i thought a thread was sad i would not bother wasting my time posting about it
 

RichED

Well-Known Member
look at this from serrious seeds
first sketch looks like seed on its side
if you read below last sketch it says to plant with root down







Serious Seeds
Postbus 1239
1440 BE Purmerend
tel: 0031 (0) 299373-248 fax: id- 278
email: [email protected]
internet: www.seriousseeds.com

HOW TO GERMINATE SEEDS
Dear customer, Thank you for buying serious seeds. You have made an excellent choice! The product you’ve just purchased is one of the best to be found anywhere, and a lot of work and care have been put into creating it.

Germination

Our products are tested on a regular basis to make sure that the sprouting rate is above 90%. Each individual seed is hand-selected by size, maturity, appearance, and possible hidden cracks. It should be no problem to have them stored for a short time (a fridge is the best for storage), but germination will gradually decline. Store seeds in a dry, dark place and under a constant, low temperature. A seed is a living plant in a rest period. Seeds sprout when water gets inside them. There are different ways to achieve this. We will explain 2 ways:
Seeds in soil at the right depth

An easy way is to start in soil; Put the seeds immediatly on top of (moist, not soaking wet)soil, cover them lightly with a bit loose soil and press gently. Each seed is in a pot of its own. Cover each pot with plastic till the seed “puts its head up” and is visible, then take the plastic away.
Seeds sprouted between wet kitchen towel. Cover the plate with plastic wrap

Another way (the serious way we always use) is sprouting between wet paper towels. Put a folded paper kitchen towel on a plate and wet it under the tap. You can use warm water. Keep the plate upright to let excess water run off. Divide the seeds on the paper and fold it, thereby covering the seeds. Cover the whole plate with a piece of plastic wrap or put the plate inside a plastic bag. Keep the plate in a warm place, this helps germination. (not above 30 C). The seeds will usually start to sprout in 1-7 days. As soon as the white root tip comes out transplant them into the right sterile soil or hydro system. (Root downward and not too deep!)

Sprouted seeds are put in a shallow hole with the root down. NOT too deep!


It is important that you use a good quality soil (dark colour, pH neutral=around 7, and NOT fertilized). Avoid using wood based soil, too wet soil, etc. Have a plastic wrap 'tent' installed over the seedbed and a light - fluorescent (close), or metal halide or sodium (far) - above the plants. Spray water under the tent to maintain humidity. In 2 days you will be able to see the sprouts come up. You should be able to achieve 95% germination.

COMMON REASONS FOR NOT GERMINATING:
1. Seed put too deep into soil; the seed has not enough energy to grow out of it.
2. Soil is too wet and the young sprout starts to rot.
3. Soil contains too much wood/ too much fertilizer/ insects/ or has wrong pH



Seedling
The plant is called a seedling at this stage. The first leaves are in fact fuel containers to draw the energy from to start its life. (Those “seedleaves” are oval shaped and drop later from the plant). Give the plant enough light or it will stretch to reach for it. If it does get long and thin or even falls over, support it with a pipe cleaner. The one side of this hairy stick can be folded around the stem and the other end put into the soil or growing medium.

The plant
The first true leaves are single and every pair of leaves upwards has 2 “fingers”(or leaflets) more (1; 3; 7; 9; 11) the plant stops when 11 leaflets are reached. Every next pair has also 11 leaflets. This pattern is different when a plant is grown from a clone, they stop at 9 or 7 leaflets. Generally, the more leaflets a plants has the more healthy it is.
The place where the leaves are attached on the plant we call the node. There you see two leaves at each side of the stem. At the node, right above each of those leaves, usually a new branch grows out. At first hardly visible, it is more so when the plant grows taller.

Growing and Flowering
Indoors a plant is kept under 24 or 18 hours of light till the time you want to flower it. To make it flower give the plant 12 hours of light and 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness. Wait to do this when a plant is 5 to 7 weeks old. Outside plants will automatically flower in autumn.
After 2 weeks of flowering a plant will tell its sex. A female will show little white hairs at the top; a male carries small green bags dangling on a short thin stalk from the main stem; pollenbags.
The longer a plant flowers the more obvious this is. Remove the males before the bags open.
Now it is a matter of waiting. You can harvest the female plant when about
80-90 % of the white hairs have turned from white into brown/orange.This is a very short description of the life of a plant, to get SERIOUS results consult a grow book.
ENJOY and GOOD LUCK !!!!.
 

dyzel

Well-Known Member
Waste of time. Plant seeds are specifically designed to figure out which way to grow. Whether they need to curl or not is up to the seed itself. Just let it be, and grow out your crop!
Think about a stray seed.
It may be sown into the ground, unsprouted, potentially 'upside down' but it will still find it's way to break ground sooner or later.
Beyond this point, the presence of green plant matter (containing chlorophyll) will readily use any light available to produce the remaining energy for growth.
 

whiteflour

Well-Known Member
Waste of time. Plant seeds are specifically designed to figure out which way to grow. Whether they need to curl or not is up to the seed itself. Just let it be, and grow out your crop!
Think about a stray seed.
It may be sown into the ground, unsprouted, potentially 'upside down' but it will still find it's way to break ground sooner or later.
Beyond this point, the presence of green plant matter (containing chlorophyll) will readily use any light available to produce the remaining energy for growth.
Finally someone that gets it. This time the root tip spends "figuring out its way" is lost time, lost energy. Pot seeds often aren't grown to full maturity, plants are harvested for the fruit not the seeds. To plant them root tip down only compounds the issue, or other environmental factors. A slow seed is more susceptible to root rot for example.

Serious is recommending this for seeds which are sprouted, as they have already attempted once to break the soil. Wasted energy.
 

Johnny Retro

Well-Known Member
Wtf is wasted energy? Sounds like a crock of shit to me. If the seedling comes up, it gets its energy from the light source.
 

RichED

Well-Known Member
when seeds fall on ground 50 or 100 of them is going to fall in almost the same place and maybe the birds eat 15 before they could do anything 20 of them take and 10 get eatin by deer 5 by rabbits and 3 die in the first frost

but you only have one seed then it does matter to you which way is best to place your only bean to get the best results

1Luv
 

whiteflour

Well-Known Member
Seedling establishment

In some definitions, the appearance of the radicle marks the end of germination and the beginning of "establishment", a period that ends when the seedling has exhausted the food reserves stored in the seed. Germination and establishment as an independent organism are critical phases in the life of a plant when they are the most vulnerable to injury, disease, and water stress.[2] The germination index can be used as an indicator of phytotoxicity in soils. The mortality between dispersal of seeds and completion of establishment can be so high that many species have adapted to produce huge numbers of seeds.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seed_germination
 

LadyKimi

Well-Known Member
Did any one notice that the article said proper PH is 7.5-8?

On the seed thing. I have to openly admit that I am brand new to growing anything, couldn't even keep a house plant alive before but when I originally read that the seed should be planted a certain way it seemed really funny to me. Seeds do what seeds do and they do not provide all future energy for the plant, thats what the sun is for. Therefore, although I take the time to study almost everything I read to verify it, this was one of the things even I ignored....

Kimi
 

whiteflour

Well-Known Member
The point is until the seed IS up it can't preform photosynthesis.

Stage One: Germination
Conditions are met for the seed to germinate. Those conditions are the appropriate heat and dampness. The outer hull is softened, the embyro is activated, and the radicle emerges.




Stage Two: Establishment
The effects of gravitropism on hormones within the seed produce a curve in root growth. Which produces an arch needed to break the soil. The radicle begins growing down in the direction of gravity, "positive gravitropism". Once the radicle has pentrated deep enough to anchor the plant, the arch begins growing upward, producing leverage like a crowbar to break the soil. If this attempt fails the arch begins the process over again until sucessful or exhausted.

Stage Three: Emergence
The hypocotyl arch has broken the soil and begins the straighten itself. The cotyledons begin pulling themselves from the seed, which if oriented tip up, is position to slide off like a sock or condom. If position down the root must fight the downward force of gravity as well as the opposing position of a "closed" hull.




Stage Four: Seedling
The hypocotyl arch is fully extended, hopefully with the hull removed. If not the last remaining energy goes to swelling the cotyledons until successful or exhausted. No cotyledons, No photosynthesis, Dead plant.


 
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