A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions

[indoorsavant]

pull the plugs off the wall, and check the connections from the house wiring going to the outlet., in like page 1-3 of this thread i had a post explaining the proper way for the wiring to connect to a receptacle. more than likely, what is going on is that there is a bad connection causing one of the wires to overheat... explaining why the fuse tripped.

hey man....im retarded,i cant find the post you spoke of.nor do i understand at all what you mean...lol sorry man.can you dumb it down a bit for me.i have no electrical experience.and dont know where to look for the bad connection,or how to fix it.do i turn the power to the entire house off first?i have a electrician buddy,but dont want him to know more than i need him to.
also i was wrong it tripped again in the time i was waiting to hear back from you and the closet went off too.so everything must be on the same fuse.my tv is not however.should i run an extension cord to the other outlet for the ac?or the grow/fans? is it safe to use one of the orange heavy guage cords?are there watt limits with those things?just want to try to do this as easily and safely as possible.with out bringing someone in and having to show them....
thanks again man....
also when setting up a multi watt grow,does it need its own breaker box.i want to try my hands with the commercial aspect,but am worried about running more than 1 light.it wouldnt be in this home,any good tips?

 

[IAm5toned]

try to seperate the fans and lights to another circuit.
sounds like the combination of having an ac, lights and fans on one circuit is what is tripping your breaker.
use a heavy duty cord to do this, you need to get a heavy duty cord that is a MINIMUM SIZE OF 14AWG.
the smaller the awg number, the larger the wire. 12 is bigger than 14, 14 is smaller than 10 and 12... get it? you want no smaller than size 14awg.

as far as running multiple lights, its no state secret you need to learn a bit more about power before you decide to cross that bridge.
i would suggest a 240v lighting controller. this easy to use device simply plugs into a 240v outlet, like the ones used for a dryer, or a stove.
here is a link to one:
http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/30-amp-240v-power-box-p-1397.html

that controller should easily handle up to 5000w of lighting and fans, more than enough! comes complete with timers and all

 

[powerslide]

ok checkd the box and they are all 20's. how many watts does a avg 400w digital ballast pull? how many watts do you think a 7000btu portable a/c unit pulls? havent bought the a/c unit yet and trying to make sure im not going to start tripping the breaker before i do buy it. only other things on it are a air pump with 4outlets and a small 396gph water pump.

one 400 and one 600 will put off more heat than a single 1000w
well, what matters is the size of the breaker feeding the outlets.
if its a 20 amp breaker, you have a max of 1920 watts, if its a 15 amp breaker, you have 1440w. go over those numbers, and you will have nuiscance tripping left and right.

 

[gumball]

I have a timer question. I am currently using cfls and a mechanical timer. Well I moved my grow close to my bed, and the mechanical timer is a little noisy. I am also about to switch to 100 watt CMH. But I want an inexpensive digital timer to simplify things and to be more quiet. Do you have any suggestions? Is there anything I need to take into consideration switching to the pulse start I'd ballast? I have seen some of your posts on resistive and inductive, and I know now I need inductive for HID. But I have read about contacts and I don't know if I need more than a timer to make this work. I appreciate your time and assistance with this IAm5toned, your greatly appreciated!!

 

[InvestInMe]

MLC-4 Light Controller 240V
4 Lights 240 V with 240 V plug
The MLC-4 and MLC-4a Master Lighting Controllers are the best devices for controlling up to four H.I.D. lights from one timer. You run 30 amp, 240 volt power into the MLC-4, and all of the outlets are controlled by one 120 volt trigger cord. Plug the trigger cord into a standard timer, and when trigger cord receives power, all of the lights will turn on. The MLC-4 features four standard 240 volt style (NEMA 6-15) outlets to plug in your ballasts. The MLC-4a has 120 volt style (NEMA 5-15) outlets which allows for running your ballasts at 240 volts without having to change out your standard 120 volt ballast power cords. The MLC-4's are rated for 30 amps @ 240 volts.




I was wounding if I could plug this into my dryer outlet which happens to be a 40 amp? I see it say it should be run with 30 amps will this matter ... ( also I will only be running 4 600 w hps in it not 1k's? )

 

[TheDude0007]

So here is a question for you. Sorry if it has already been asked.

I have one plug in my grow room. I have a good mulitplug with a surge protector plug. But.... I run all this off it.

1) 400w hps (using a timer with relay switch)
2) 4 X 60w fluros
3) 2 X fans
4) 1 x bathroom extractor fan, (large inline fan)
5) 25 w heat pad

So far I have not had any problems. The power from there goes to a distribution board and that board is connected to the main db board. I have had a short before and it has triped on the main board. So it seems to be wired safely. I have never had any problems so far in 12 months of running it like this.

My question; Is this a bad idea/dangerous etc etc. Could it lead to a problem in other words. I mean it is on one plug only.

 

[IAm5toned]

ok checkd the box and they are all 20's. how many watts does a avg 400w digital ballast pull? how many watts do you think a 7000btu portable a/c unit pulls? havent bought the a/c unit yet and trying to make sure im not going to start tripping the breaker before i do buy it. only other things on it are a air pump with 4outlets and a small 396gph water pump.

440 watts, on avg, tho the maximum input power is always listed on the label of the ballast.
as far as an a/c, 7000 btu is about 1000w.
with the a/c and the lamp, and the pumps and other stuff, your under the limit.

 

[IAm5toned]

I have a timer question. I am currently using cfls and a mechanical timer. Well I moved my grow close to my bed, and the mechanical timer is a little noisy. I am also about to switch to 100 watt CMH. But I want an inexpensive digital timer to simplify things and to be more quiet. Do you have any suggestions? Is there anything I need to take into consideration switching to the pulse start I'd ballast? I have seen some of your posts on resistive and inductive, and I know now I need inductive for HID. But I have read about contacts and I don't know if I need more than a timer to make this work. I appreciate your time and assistance with this IAm5toned, your greatly appreciated!!

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=digital+timer+switch&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=7396241020401072450&ei=qvQzTLekO8GclgeMs9zACw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CCwQ8wIwAQ#

 

[IAm5toned]

MLC-4 Light Controller 240V
4 Lights 240 V with 240 V plug
The MLC-4 and MLC-4a Master Lighting Controllers are the best devices for controlling up to four H.I.D. lights from one timer. You run 30 amp, 240 volt power into the MLC-4, and all of the outlets are controlled by one 120 volt trigger cord. Plug the trigger cord into a standard timer, and when trigger cord receives power, all of the lights will turn on. The MLC-4 features four standard 240 volt style (NEMA 6-15) outlets to plug in your ballasts. The MLC-4a has 120 volt style (NEMA 5-15) outlets which allows for running your ballasts at 240 volts without having to change out your standard 120 volt ballast power cords. The MLC-4's are rated for 30 amps @ 240 volts.

I was wounding if I could plug this into my dryer outlet which happens to be a 40 amp? I see it say it should be run with 30 amps will this matter ... ( also I will only be running 4 600 w hps in it not 1k's? )

you will have to change the equipment supplied 30 amp power cord to a 40 amp appliance cord you can pick up @ any major hardware store like lowes or home depot. very simple procedure, just like changing the cord on a dryer.

do not run more than a total of 5760 watts through the controller.

 

[IAm5toned]

So here is a question for you. Sorry if it has already been asked.

I have one plug in my grow room. I have a good mulitplug with a surge protector plug. But.... I run all this off it.

1) 400w hps (using a timer with relay switch)
2) 4 X 60w fluros
3) 2 X fans
4) 1 x bathroom extractor fan, (large inline fan)
5) 25 w heat pad

So far I have not had any problems. The power from there goes to a distribution board and that board is connected to the main db board. I have had a short before and it has triped on the main board. So it seems to be wired safely. I have never had any problems so far in 12 months of running it like this.

My question; Is this a bad idea/dangerous etc etc. Could it lead to a problem in other words. I mean it is on one plug only.

if its not broke, dont fix it

a single receptacle can hold at least 1400w, if its on a dedicated circuit like how you have it set up.
your setup is called a definite purpose outlet in the technical world, it should be fine, though after more than 60 months of use you might want to replace the receptacle itself, in case the blades have worn out.

 

[Danielsgb]

I have one for you. ( again ) I was at a Recycling Yard looking for a tube to build a Sulfur Burner. I asked the yard hand if the 1000W and 400W ballasts work or if they can be returned if they don't. He said "They are from demos and are 480V". (Which I noticed) I said "With the med. MJ you must be asked that a ton." He said "Yep".
My buddy is in the management at the other Yard in town. Can these be converted to a 240V? I'm really only interested in the 400's. Is it a cap/ing issue? I can get these for next to nothing (or nothing).
Daniels

 

[DutchBustinBeast2U]

YOOO whats up bro i was wondering how much the bill will go up if im using a 1000 watt mh for veg and then a 1000 watt hps PLUS 2 little 400 watt hps lamps. Im tryin to figure out how much i can push the limit without the electric bill ppl alerting cops. what are some ways growers balance out their bills?

 

[gumball]

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=digital+timer+switch&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=7396241020401072450&ei=qvQzTLekO8GclgeMs9zACw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CCwQ8wIwAQ#

Thanks IAm5toned, but I dont quite understand this one. I know this style is probably superior to the plug in timers with an outlet or two, but due to my need to move my stuff around the house if we are having people over or not, i prefer the timers that can plug in and unplug.

The ratings on the timer you recommended are below. I guess "Tungsten" refers to "Inductive". But do I need the "Ballast" rating, or any of the other ones for that matter?
Resistive: 15 Amp @ 120-277 VAC
Tungsten: 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 A @ 208-277 VAC
Ballast: 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC
Motor: 1 HP @ 120 VAC, 2 HP @ 240 VAC
DC Loads: 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC

I found a timer that plugs in with the following ratings:
15 amps, 1875 watts general purpose. 5 amps 600 watts tungsten. 125V~, 60hz. Will this work with my equipment?

I do appreciate your help on this, your are a valuable asset to have around here, thanks for what you do.

EDIT: my current timer is an Intermatic TN800CH. it is rated at the following. will this work for a 100watt CMH until I can figure out a digital timer solution? This light will be the only thing timed. Thanks again Mr 5toned, +REP for your service!!
15 Amps, 1000 Watts Resistive and Inductive
1000 Watts Tungsten
120Volts AC, 60 Hz
1/3 HP

 

[gumball]

I have been thinking bout this all morning! Am I suppose to wire that type of timer between my ballast and the wall outlet? If I do that, does the timer still need the ballast ratings, or are the Tungsten values what matter when dealing with hid lighting?

 

[kingofqueen]

Got any ideas for building a cycle timer 1on 4 off ?

 

[TheDude0007]

if its not broke, dont fix it

a single receptacle can hold at least 1400w, if its on a dedicated circuit like how you have it set up.
your setup is called a definite purpose outlet in the technical world, it should be fine, though after more than 60 months of use you might want to replace the receptacle itself, in case the blades have worn out.

Man thanks so much, that puts me at ease. Although I have no idea what the "blades" are. Excuse my ignorance.

 

[aTTicRaT]

Thanks for all your info to me and the rest of the farmers '5toned. OK so I have a digital 400 HPS setup that I ordered a while ago from HTGSupply because it was the right price even if at the not so right time. Anyhow, I haven't used the system other than to fire it up to make sure it worked upon delivery. My question is, can I use a 150w or 250w HPS bulb with the 400w ballast? I don't think I really need 400w for what I'm doing but I'd like a little more than CFLs or tubes have to offer.

 

[IAm5toned]

I have one for you. ( again ) I was at a Recycling Yard looking for a tube to build a Sulfur Burner. I asked the yard hand if the 1000W and 400W ballasts work or if they can be returned if they don't. He said "They are from demos and are 480V". (Which I noticed) I said "With the med. MJ you must be asked that a ton." He said "Yep".
My buddy is in the management at the other Yard in town. Can these be converted to a 240V? I'm really only interested in the 400's. Is it a cap/ing issue? I can get these for next to nothing (or nothing).
Daniels

as far as that goes, your out of luck....unless its a multitap ballast. the only way you will know is to take it apart and see what type of wiring is coming off of the ballast core, or check the nameplate. if its a multitap ballast, there will be leads for many different types of voltages, usually 120/208/240/277/480.
the ballast core itself has to be wound for lower voltages for the fixture to work on 240v. even if you were to change the ignitor/cap, a 480v ballast is going to step the incoming 480 voltage down to something like 110vac, and if you put 240v on a 480v core, you will only get aprox 55v out of it. you can now see how the windings of the ballast core are directly proportionate to the incoming voltage. a 480v core has a step down ratio (also called turns ratio) of about 4:1, a 240v core has a ratio of roughly 2:1

 

[IAm5toned]

YOOO whats up bro i was wondering how much the bill will go up if im using a 1000 watt mh for veg and then a 1000 watt hps PLUS 2 little 400 watt hps lamps. Im tryin to figure out how much i can push the limit without the electric bill ppl alerting cops. what are some ways growers balance out their bills?

use the biggest wire possible, i mean obscenely big. thats a long term investment though, and has a very complicated explanation... just trust me that it works, the bigger the wire, the lower the operating cost, at the expense of installation cost.
run lights of equal wattages on opposite phases, if you have 10 400w lamps, then 5 of them should be on the black phase 1, and 5 of them should be on the red phase 2. this will only work on 120v or 208, not 240v.
run your lights at nighttime only, its easier for the ac to cool them in the summer, and will reduce heating bills in the winter.
always pay your bills, on time, or in advance. nothing gets the elec company pissed off and looking for trouble,like a grower that wont pay his bill.

 

[IAm5toned]

Thanks IAm5toned, but I dont quite understand this one. I know this style is probably superior to the plug in timers with an outlet or two, but due to my need to move my stuff around the house if we are having people over or not, i prefer the timers that can plug in and unplug.

The ratings on the timer you recommended are below. I guess "Tungsten" refers to "Inductive". But do I need the "Ballast" rating, or any of the other ones for that matter?
Resistive: 15 Amp @ 120-277 VAC
Tungsten: 15 Amp @ 120 VAC, 6 A @ 208-277 VAC
Ballast: 8 Amp @ 120 VAC, 4 Amp @ 208-277 VAC
Motor: 1 HP @ 120 VAC, 2 HP @ 240 VAC
DC Loads: 4 Amp @ 12 VDC, 2 Amp @ 28 VDC

I found a timer that plugs in with the following ratings:
15 amps, 1875 watts general purpose. 5 amps 600 watts tungsten. 125V~, 60hz. Will this work with my equipment?

I do appreciate your help on this, your are a valuable asset to have around here, thanks for what you do.

EDIT: my current timer is an Intermatic TN800CH. it is rated at the following. will this work for a 100watt CMH until I can figure out a digital timer solution? This light will be the only thing timed. Thanks again Mr 5toned, +REP for your service!!
15 Amps, 1000 Watts Resistive and Inductive
1000 Watts Tungsten
120Volts AC, 60 Hz
1/3 HP

tungsten does NOT mean inductive.
tungsten means incandescent lamps... the type of lamps you will never use for a successful grow.
your CMH ballast is inductive. all ballasts are inductive.
the 1875w general purpose timer should work for your 100w ballast, however its not rated for inductive loads, so i cannot say with any degree of certainty just how long it will work... it might be a year, it might be 12 hours, theres no way to tell.
your current timer will work just fine, albeit being a little noisy.