Oil extraction
- Thread starter Promitius
- Start date
Gonzo'dOut71
Active Member
theres a couple different ways to extract the oil but the use of some dangerous solvents is required. The best way though is the butane method. Google Hash Oil Butane Method and you will find everything you need. I think there is a thread around here somewheres on it. TokeCity, Grasscity, and a couple other froums have some detailed sections on hash oil specifilly.
GoldenGanja13
Well-Known Member
What I do is simply use prime bud 1-2 oz grind and toss in a Mason jar, adding 95% /180 proof alcohol (spring creek) and shake twice a day for 30 days leaving it in the dark. Then strain out material into a glass pan and sit in front of a fan in garage (very Flamable) after a few hours all the alcohol will evaporate and you will be left with a thc sludge.
Gonzo'dOut71
Active Member
hmm thats interesting. Is the sludge the end product? How do you convert the sluge to oil thats smokable etc? I may give this a try. Once the alcohol evaporates your left with pretty much just thc right b/c your only using 1 extraction chemical? Hows the final product in your opinion?
pokesalotasmot
Well-Known Member
Butane method is the best method, although it is the most dangerous because of how flammable it is, plus it can be hard to find quality butane depending where you live. There are videos on you tube on how to do it.
The method I used is rubbing alcohol. I had a batch grow mold while it was in the jars; I didn't dry it enough.
I took it out of the jars, ground it up pretty good, and soaked it in 91% rubbing alcohol for about 4 or 5 days, shaking it 2 or 3 times a day. I then strained the bud pieces out through a cheese cloth and the left over liquid I sat in front of a fan for about a week. The remaining rubbing alcohol evaporated away, and at the end I had my THC sludge haha. It worked good though, it had a really floral kind of taste to it, and it was pretty potent.
The method I used is rubbing alcohol. I had a batch grow mold while it was in the jars; I didn't dry it enough.
I took it out of the jars, ground it up pretty good, and soaked it in 91% rubbing alcohol for about 4 or 5 days, shaking it 2 or 3 times a day. I then strained the bud pieces out through a cheese cloth and the left over liquid I sat in front of a fan for about a week. The remaining rubbing alcohol evaporated away, and at the end I had my THC sludge haha. It worked good though, it had a really floral kind of taste to it, and it was pretty potent.
upthearsenal
Well-Known Member
using alcohol and other volatile substances to make oil leaves nasty residues in the oil. the oil is usually dark because it contains chlorophyll and other contaminants. to me it's gross, but if you make any you can soak nugs in it to make "caviar" or you can rub the sludge on joint papers
GoldenGanja13
Well-Known Member
Narcotic. What we do is put a few drops in a capsule and swallow for a narcotic stone that last forever or you can put one on some gridded herb and vape. Another method is to make a foil spoon and add a few drops keeping flame away and only enough heat to have thc oil smoke, suck it in with a straw. You will be DONE.
Twistedfunk
Active Member
Contrary to what I'm reading here. You can make awesome hash oil with iso alcohol. If you leave your material exposed to the alcohol for up to a minute, you will start to get sludge unless you have an incredibly resinous product. When using alcohol to extract the resin, you want to consider exposure over time in co ordinance with your resin to leaf ratio. I've found that if I do 3 washes for about 30s each using twice as much solution as leaf I will get my maximum result. Each wash goes into a different pan to dry and the first wash is always the purest and usually comes out a dusty tan. The 2nd wash comes out dusty tan with some black sludge in pools. The 3rd wash is usually pure black sludge. All of them are potent. All can be vaped/smoked/cooked and all will get you blasted. Other than taste/texture each is as potent as the next, providing the same high. The black stuff is hard to handle but dissolves quicker in warm butter for cooking purposes. The dusty batch doesn't seem to dissolve as well.
GoldenGanja13
Well-Known Member
Been looking around trying to find the best way (like yourself) to have a clean Honey Oil. This is what I found~
The basic premise is that low-boiling point, residue-free solvents are used in a non-pressurized vessel to saturate and separate the resins in the plant material (and on it, in the form of trichomes). The resins are suspended in a liquid slurry, which is evaporated off in a wide-mouthed container, leaving behind pure honey oil.
There are a variety of solvents used to extract honey oil from cannabis leaves and flowers, including isopropyl alcohol, hexane, electronics contact cleaners (which contain a cornucopia of petrochemicals), grain alcohol, butane, and a variety of other materials. The chief differences between these solvents (as it relates to preparing honey oil) are:
A. Toxicity/cleanliness - some of these solvents leave dangerous residues that can harm you if smoked/ingested. Some are residue free. These are the ones we want for our work.
B. Polarity - some of these chemicals extract unwanted plant waxes, chlorophyll, and other things that are undesirable in honey oil and ruin it's clarity, color, taste, and sometimes its high. Non-polar solvents will leave the unwanted stuff behind and only extract the golden honey oil that you're after.
C. Boiling Point - all solvents have different boiling points, which changes the degree of difficulty in getting the solvent out of the oil so you don't smoke it. Ideally, a solvent will have a low boiling point which will allow most of it to evaporate naturally without needing to accelerate it with additional heat.
This tek uses butane, which has a very low boiling point, leaves no residue, and is completely non-polar. Butane fluid is commonly available from tobacconists, sporting goods stores that specialize in camping equipment, home centers/hardware stores that sell butane torch tools, and kitchen supply places that sell creme brulee torches and refills. Many people use Colibri because it is known to be free of benzenes and other contaminants which can cause you harm. I've also found Lenk butane in 42 g canisters at Lowes. Lenk and Colibri are very clean butanes. Do not use butane used as fuel for camp stoves and very cheap lighter refill butane in little 18cc canisters. These will be the cheapest per gram, but they are imported from god-knows-where and may have loads of benzenes and nasty chemicals. It's only a matter of a fraction of a cent anyway. All butane I've found commercially available ranges from $.07-$.08 per gram, with Lenk being on the low end and Colibri on the high end.
I've looked around the internet and there are no online deals to find these materials. Even some of the eBay auctions were ripoffs - one joker was selling 50g cans for $12.95 (they usually go for $3.50-4.00). The shipping is also expensive. Since it's a flammable material, it can only be shipped USPS ground and has to have extra handling which raises the shipping costs. One vendor quoted me $5 per can for a bulk order - the shipping was more than the cost of the fuel! Look around - you will definitely be able to find butane refills locally. Unless you become a Colibri distributor, I doubt you'll find a better price.
GoldenGanja13
Well-Known Member
I have never attempted honey oil as of yet, but I do have 2 smurfberry plants that are not auto's like SAGARMATHA says they are, anyways I disliked the whole grow,and many of times I wanted to just toss them in the trash. Well they are 3 weeks away so I'm thinking of turning them both into H.O.
Doing lots of reading and I found this to be insightful ... http://www.erowid.org/plants/cannabis/cannabis_info22.shtml
Doing lots of reading and I found this to be insightful ... http://www.erowid.org/plants/cannabis/cannabis_info22.shtml