First Bubbleponics DWC 5 gallon hydro. Need 3 questions answered

dr green dre

Well-Known Member
Alright, well she is really looking better, over night. I have constant water in the humidifier, constant 79 degress F.
The top three nodes are standing up striving for light, they look really healthy compared to 24 hours ago. The bottom 4 nodes are still wilthing but they really look less crispy and shriveld than yesterday too, which is great, but is peculiar.

ph is at 6 and ppm is at 417.

res is about 70 F

Raised the light 4inches. i want to stretch her up a little bit.

I was reading about RO and equipment that is neaded and from what i found they can be pretty expensive. Im looking to find a DIY one, if you guys have any ideas, i was thinking about preparing the water for the ext res change a week before, that way it gives time for chlorine and shit to evaporate. Would that work? Or do i need to go spend $100.00+ on this?
Leaving the water out for a few days will work, i leave mine out just to get it to room temp.. Had a similar problem with one of my plants all bushy at the bottom, sliced most of it off just left the top leaves.. Got a similar setup plus a 90ltr diy bubb, hope you dont mind me posting pics..View attachment 1077783View attachment 1077788View attachment 1077789View attachment 1077793View attachment 1077792
first 4 pics is 90ltr 5th pics 4 dwc 20ltr
 

HappyHomeGrower

Well-Known Member
The heat problem was probably a big part of it. I hooked up my 400 watt HPS about a week ago, and my temps are starting to become an issue (between 84-90 degrees). Some of my leaves have started to yellow and get crispy, way worse than yours. They are sleeping right now so I can't give a pic.
 

Standupp

Active Member
Leaving the water out for a few days will work, i leave mine out just to get it to room temp.. Had a similar problem with one of my plants all bushy at the bottom, sliced most of it off just left the top leaves.. Got a similar setup plus a 90ltr diy bubb, hope you dont mind me posting pics..View attachment 1077783View attachment 1077788View attachment 1077789View attachment 1077793View attachment 1077792
first 4 pics is 90ltr 5th pics 4 dwc 20ltr
Dre, thanks, i was worried i had to invest in an RO system, but i think ill be fine with the tap. And yes thanks for the pictures, always welcome to post on this thread. They look gorgeous man! GJ!!

The heat problem was probably a big part of it. I hooked up my 400 watt HPS about a week ago, and my temps are starting to become an issue (between 84-90 degrees). Some of my leaves have started to yellow and get crispy, way worse than yours. They are sleeping right now so I can't give a pic.
Yes i totally agree, hopefully ill be able to purchase my inline fan this week. a 4incher with 165cfm. $100. Would that do the trick? Sorry about your girls, hopefully they will recover like mine did! Good luck! Post some pictures when you get a chance! :)

Okay, heres my update:

Shes looking great! spawned 2 more nodes in 2 days and she is stretching up a little bit! Looks healthy and is striving for light, leaves standing up!

I installed some new hosing (purchased 6'), along with a second air stone, a 6incher, that i picked up from petsmart for $6

I read in one of Rosemans Hydroponic Guides (THIS CREDIT GOES TO ROSEMAN), that the more bubbles(air) in the res, the better. So i installed the new stone and hosing by drilling a second hole next to the original hose, ran it through and connected the stone. Now i have twice the bubbles, if not more. Earlier i had two hosing from the dual output connected to a "T" conector into a single honse. All that air was forced into one 4 inch stone, so im thinking that alot of air could've moved if it wasnt blocked off. Im thinking this might also let the pump run a little cooler now, but i could be wrong. And best of all, the more air in the water, the cooler the water is, so i wont have to worry about the res getting too hot.

Temp 79
pH 6
ppm steady 408 for 2 days
res temp 70
guessing around 55% humidity, cant be too sure cause my hygrometer is still fucked up and showing 20% lol

QUESTION: Should i go from 408 to 500's ppm next res change? Im pretty sure it wasnt nute burn that was making my plant look bad after my trip. Now that temps are lower it looks amazing, in fact it looks like it wants more; light, nutes, ect.

the picture with me holdong the magnifying glass next to the plant is to show scale. couldnt find a ruler lol
 

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HappyHomeGrower

Well-Known Member
Lookin good. It is kinda strange that you have all the little nodes under the main canopy. They don't seem to be growing much.
 

BeginnersLuck

Active Member
She dont look good to me.. I would lower your ppm to upper 200s to 300. Your using the 3 part GH nutes right? I have had grows where the PPM wasnt over 400. I have a grow going now dialed in that I have the PPMs up to 800s but those plants are HUGE. Try using like 1/2 strength nutes!!! Less is more. Also your PH.. I like to be from 5.3-6 vegging averaging around 5.6 and 5.8-6.3 flowering averaging about 5.9. You want your res temp below 74 for sure mine is about 68. RH for sure, veg 50-65 flwr 35-50%. Your temps; you have the radiant temps, in the light and temps in the shade, under the canopy. I am burning 2k and my radiant temps are in the low 90s while my temps under the canopy are in the upper 70s. Ventalation and flow of air is super critical. I think you have your ppms to high still but are on the right track with the water and air temps..
 

BeginnersLuck

Active Member
Ohh yeah also are you using any h202? Once you get your lockout and nute issues in check you should think about using h202 or 35% food grade peroxide in your res to fight algae and to help your root development. NOTE if you use any organic additives I wouldnt use the h202.! Also watch out for your Ph boosters. Less is better! Use RO water that has a starting PH of 4.95 and a PPM of 0-7 making it perfect because you dont have to worry about chlorides and calcium that can cause lockout with your nutes.
 

Standupp

Active Member
She dont look good to me.. I would lower your ppm to upper 200s to 300. Your using the 3 part GH nutes right? I have had grows where the PPM wasnt over 400. I have a grow going now dialed in that I have the PPMs up to 800s but those plants are HUGE. Try using like 1/2 strength nutes!!! Less is more. Also your PH.. I like to be from 5.3-6 vegging averaging around 5.6 and 5.8-6.3 flowering averaging about 5.9. You want your res temp below 74 for sure mine is about 68. RH for sure, veg 50-65 flwr 35-50%. Your temps; you have the radiant temps, in the light and temps in the shade, under the canopy. I am burning 2k and my radiant temps are in the low 90s while my temps under the canopy are in the upper 70s. Ventalation and flow of air is super critical. I think you have your ppms to high still but are on the right track with the water and air temps..
if you read my journal you can see i am using botanicare....not gh's 3-part. Thanks for the advice!
 

shizz

Well-Known Member
a good way to control water temps. put 2 holes in the sides of ur dwc run one tubes one end at the bottom and one at the top of the water level. quarter inch tubes to a small fridge. coil up at least 10 feet inside the fridge place firdge higher then ur dwc. you have to make sure all the air is out of the tubes. also if your temps are alittle high. just place card board from top of you dwcs blocking the light from hitting the buckets.
 

Standupp

Active Member
Temp 77-80
Humidity 55%
pH 6

Added a teaspoon of nutes to the res, too see if she can handle it. If anything goes wrong, its ok, im changing the res this monday (10 day period between res changes). If she can, then i know for the next change i can add more than the last amount (6 teaspoons, ill try 8. )

I think im going to give her one more week, then do the transition: half grow/half bloom, and start flowering at full bloom.

Just like the botanicare feeding chart suggests:
(+rep HappyHomeGrower for the source)


Im at half strength. They recommend 25-30mL per gallon.

3 gallons of res water= 75-90mL total

divided 5mL for teaspoon = 8-12 tsp, compared to my 6 tsp
 

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Standupp

Active Member
aye standup! i think i got a good idea for ur grow! check out these: http://www.hydroponics-garden.com/3-neoprene-insert-10-ea.html

itll help keep your res temps lower and reduce the chances of root rot caused by light hitting your hydrodon and the inside of your res.

lemme know what ya think bro.
Magnus, you've got a great idea! I think that would work excellent for seedlings and clones, and smaller plants. My plant has such a big canopy now that it shades the hydroton, that it isnt an issue now, but i will definitely
use it next go around! Thanks for the idea, i think that will help alot!

+rep :)
 

Ms. Burns

Member
you're doing everything right bro. soon the roots will be in the water and the growth will explode.

try to keep your water temp closer to 68.
Jet, I would like to know why I always hear cool roots are better, can you explain why? I have a Bubbleponics kit and am nearing the end of my first run with it. I haven't made any effort to cool the root systems, the temp is 79F-83F during the night (light on), and 75F-81F during the day. Everything seems fine, aside from my Delahaze flowering at snail pace.. pointers??
 

straitkilla911

Active Member
Jet, I would like to know why I always hear cool roots are better, can you explain why? I have a Bubbleponics kit and am nearing the end of my first run with it. I haven't made any effort to cool the root systems, the temp is 79F-83F during the night (light on), and 75F-81F during the day. Everything seems fine, aside from my Delahaze flowering at snail pace.. pointers??
Not Jet, but perhaps i can offer my .02 cents.
The issue, to my understanding, with reservoir temps is that although roots absorb nutrients better at a temp closer to that of the plant, Higher temps encourage root mold, in addition the percentage of Dissolved oxygen in the water is also decreased with every temp rise.

So to avoid root rot and increase the amount of dissolved oxygen in your reservoir it has been encouraged and suggested that hydro users lower and monitor the temp of their water.
 

HappyHomeGrower

Well-Known Member
Not Jet, but perhaps i can offer my .02 cents.
The issue, to my understanding, with reservoir temps is that although roots absorb nutrients better at a temp closer to that of the plant, Higher temps encourage root mold, in addition the percentage of Dissolved oxygen in the water is also decreased with every temp rise.

So to avoid root rot and increase the amount of dissolved oxygen in your reservoir it has been encouraged and suggested that hydro users lower and monitor the temp of their water.
I have never really understood why people say to keep water temp low. When you clone cuttings, it is reccomended to use a heating pad to promote root growth. Also, the warmer water is the more it can hold in suspension because the molecules are spaced further apart. My water stays at room temperature of my grow room.
 

straitkilla911

Active Member
IMO its not too say warm water is bad, just that the warmer the water is, the higher your risk of algae/mold growth is. That is my understanding on it at least. I personally have never worried about it as i haven't had any signs that i should. My grow room stays around the low 80's, and for the most part, my water temp is a reflection of that. My girls haven't complained, so why should I. There are however a mass of threads that constantly pop up regarding people complaining about high water temps and problems it brought on.
 

HappyHomeGrower

Well-Known Member
I'll buy that. I don't ever recall seeing algea outside in the winter. However, both of my res are uncovered in bright light, no algea. But, I do clean them out every week. My girls are like yours, I don't think they care too much about water temp.
 

straitkilla911

Active Member
Yea, kinda reminds me in pineapple express when they see ted's "eldorodo weed field", and he has huge pools of water just sitting under his lights. Always kind of wondered about it. But yes, i suppose its more of a fear factor and a prevention method rather than a necessity.
 
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