nickfury510
Well-Known Member
Your gonna want to get your self an enclosed hood with a fan running through it and move that heat outta there
????Quantum or Lumatek????
- Thread starter ENDLSCYCLE
- Start date
mydixiewrecked
New Member
like I said, I was partialy wrong as are you, current is measured in AMPS. it's called ohms law
i'll put it to you like this,
a new motor pulling 4 amps at 110 volts= 440watts
10 yrs later, the motor is now drawing 8 amps
8 amps x 110volts=880 amps, is it still the same price to run that motor, nope it's drawing more amps, which leads to more kwh's
ENDLSCYCLE
Well-Known Member
yeah...i run a cool tube with a 6" vortex 450cfm fan....my fan controller was on med. with the 400w and the dial is all the way up now for the new setup. I really dont want to invest in an A/C unit till next summer if that is going to be my only solution. My little sluts sat in 83*F all night(lights come on 6PM,off at 6AM).......I'm not diggin it...........HURRY UP WINTER!!!!!!!!! If anyone knows if dropping down to a 600w bulb would be cooler let me know,I'll go buy one in a hurry....Just dont want to buy one if its going to do no good............and to the guys arguing about the power issue....Its Ohms Law...pretty simple........P=IxE........E=IxR.........P(watts),I(current),E(volts),R(ohms).......and yes....we pay for electricity in kwh......enough said....thanks for the help guys.
nickfury510
Well-Known Member
just because you can google something doesnt mean you understand it guy. just quit while your behind smart guy its obvious you dont understand the concept and are now just trying to wiggle your self out of the looking stupid corner you have painted your self into. ill say it for the last time and this will be my last response to this.
THE POWER COMPANY CHARGES BY THE KWH NOT THE AMPERAGE. THEREFORE AMPERAGE HAS NOT ONE SINGLE THING TO DO WITH THE AMOUNT OF MONEY YOUR POWER COMPANY WILL CHARGE YOU FOR THE USAGE OF YOUR EQUIPMENT IT COMES DOWN TO KWH PERIOD. YOU CAN FLIP YOUR EQUIPMENT FROM 220 TO 110 ALL DAY LONG AND YOU WILL STILL BE CHARGED THE SAME AMOUNT OF MONEY PERIOD. WHY YOU KEEP TRYING TO CONFUSE THINGS WITH LAWS YOU DONT UNDERSTAND IS BEYOND ME, BUT WE WILL COME BACK TO THE SAME PLACE WE STARTED WATTS IS WATTS IS WATTS AND THATS WHAT WE ARE CHARGED FOR. YOUR MISSINTERPRETATION OF OHMS LAW WILL NOT CHANGE THAT.
ENDLSCYCLE
Well-Known Member
Ha!!!!!!LOL
dragonbud
Well-Known Member
I think the big advantage with the 220 volts is that a lot of people have a dryer plug in their basements wired for that voltage. Usually you can tap off the 220 dryer plug with some beefier cable to control your lights. Go to a Hydro site and you will see some nice, and expensive light controllers that hook up to 220.
The 220 volts won't get you less power usage. The 400 watt (example) light will still consume 400 watts regardless of the input voltage. Volts x amps = power measured in watts. One variable (resistance) goes down when the amperage goes up producing the voltage #. Net result is the same, regardless of input voltage. Energy cannot be created nor destroyed (1st or 2nd law of thermodynamics). The reason the energy companies jack up the voltage on the transmission lines is to lower the voltage loss; from traveling miles down the land.
Hopefully I explained that right. Good luck
The 220 volts won't get you less power usage. The 400 watt (example) light will still consume 400 watts regardless of the input voltage. Volts x amps = power measured in watts. One variable (resistance) goes down when the amperage goes up producing the voltage #. Net result is the same, regardless of input voltage. Energy cannot be created nor destroyed (1st or 2nd law of thermodynamics). The reason the energy companies jack up the voltage on the transmission lines is to lower the voltage loss; from traveling miles down the land.
Hopefully I explained that right. Good luck
mydixiewrecked
New Member
Uh o.k smart guy, I don't know shit, I only own a a/c company for over 15 yrs, And I do understand ohms law, it is you that doesn;t understand what a fuckin ampere is.
you see when I was wrong, I said so and I corrected myself. You think you are so smart, you can't admit that you are also partially wrong, so go ahead and try and make yourself feel good by trying to belittle me.
I've cyberbullied more then one douchebag.
ENDLSCYCLE
Well-Known Member
Ha....pretty funny...LOL
guappy17
Member
you guys need to have your little feud on another post....you're like two children. good cripes it's as if you two actually care enough to lose sleep over something stupid. the fact of the matter is you both like weed so just smoke some and shut up.
guappy17
Member
now, back to the post subject at hand. it seems that almost every one who has lumatek are happy with their purchase as are the galaxy and the quantum consumers. as for me, i have all lumatek (42 1000w setups, FYI air cooled hoods are the ONLY way to go to control temp in your room within reason). i am putting in another 16 setups in and have had no problems with any of my ballasts even when used with hortilux bulbs (i currently use plantmax and i have not tried, nor do i care to try, those "fancy" bulbs or any dual spectrum bulbs). so my predisposition is to stick with lumatek. they are powerful, quiet, reliable, cool, and although i do not change the output they are dimmable but it doesn't really matter to me. (just a little more FYI, my electrician has told me that even when you dim the ballast, you need to change the bulb/lamp to the wattage output of the ballast or you will burn up your ballast. so guys, if you are using a 1000w ballast and bulb/lamp and you decide you would like to tone it down a bit to the 600w output, you will need to let your bulb/lamp cool and switch the bulb to a 600w bulb/lamp so as to prevent any damage to you equipment). so i guess i'm looking for any input from the quantum or galaxy users to sway my decision.
also, just to get something off my chest. i have seen several posts on the subject of sticking with magnetic ballasts instead of "e". you probably watch vhs still and listen to 8trck don't you. keep your dinosaur feedback to yourself, this thread is obviously about newer better technology for people who after efficiency and large quality yields. as for the "fixing things yourself"... when you are a running warehouse, that task is on the bottom of the to-do list along with fixing the sink for my wife.
peace
also, just to get something off my chest. i have seen several posts on the subject of sticking with magnetic ballasts instead of "e". you probably watch vhs still and listen to 8trck don't you. keep your dinosaur feedback to yourself, this thread is obviously about newer better technology for people who after efficiency and large quality yields. as for the "fixing things yourself"... when you are a running warehouse, that task is on the bottom of the to-do list along with fixing the sink for my wife.
peace
When you have a long run using high amperage applicances on a regular household circut say 14GA and the wire is warm, where does the energy to make the wire warm come from? Or does your wire not have any resistance? Its small but there is a difference.
ScoobyDoobyDoo
Well-Known Member
damn dude, you found a thread from 2010. lol.