White Poison - 2 liter Hempy SOG
- Thread starter Xare
- Start date
littlegrower2004
Well-Known Member
that hash looks incredibly dank and tastey! going to be real nice to have that every two months or so.
try an MH bulb through 12 | 12 until you feel the stretch is subsiding and you have good bud set. buy a quality one. way tighter internodal development in my work, and I use eye hortilux hps bulbs which have more blue than most HPS. No way it can compete with what a good MH does. of course you get more useable light out of hps so switch to that in, say week 4 (when the red is less important than luminous flux) and sugar leaves can make full use of the extra light.
the intention is to either get less height but more bud sites or the same hieght as you have now but WAY more bud sites. you should also notice more pronounced root development/more root mass resulting from a quality MH bulb. If top side = bottom side (above ground mirrored below ground) you catch my drift. with more bud sites and more root mass, the yield should increase.
a veg and 4 weeks of 12|12 with MH (instead of switching to HPS right on the flip or just going the whole way through with it including veg) took me to the next level in a cabinet (horizontal) I'm trying to hit a pound of smokeable in off a 400W light. best so far after a year and a half is 12 ounces. average is 9 - 10 ounces. sog, 4" rockwool blocks flood and drain. 5" centers, adjust-a-wing medium, lumatek, 24 plants (but more mountainous/indica than your strain tho new stuff is kush and doesn't yield as well as previous hybrid)
I also am a staunch follower of lucas. strict purist is good. you can also pull some sneaky tricks borrowed from the green house industry and get your P-K a bit higher in week 1 through 3. idea is to go up from the 1400 ppm (or 1000 ppm) Lucas to, say 1600 to 1800 AND MAKE SURE IT IS MAINTAINED HIGH. keeping roots on the wetter side (while still maintaining health) and higher TDS or ppm at the appropriate time reduces stretch and works. i heard this re-greenhouse tomatoes and tried it. just get it back down after good bud set so more water is available and expansion/cell division resumes in earnest.
and i noticed a difference when i went with 36 hours of dark on the flip. like bud sites showing 6-7 days sooner (!!)
can you get something white on the whole floor? my light meter doesn't really register much difference with more upwards reflection but the plants benefit. the more blue light you can get on leaves (even underside) the better in terms of stretch. and since you grow strains with equatorial in them, you need as many advantages as you can get.
thank you for posting this journal. words cannot describe what it has done for me. i also run verticals and have problems getting small rooted cuttings to develop evenly because i go from rockwool starter plugs to hydroton.... always need a week of separation when crossing a media barrier (wet - rockwool, moist - perlite, dry - hydroton) so can now use net cups with the rockwool in perlite in mini hempy beercups till loading them in the hydroton filled vertical. I'm mostly on cannibis-world.org but this site has been HUGE for info.
peace
ps. try an MH bulb
the intention is to either get less height but more bud sites or the same hieght as you have now but WAY more bud sites. you should also notice more pronounced root development/more root mass resulting from a quality MH bulb. If top side = bottom side (above ground mirrored below ground) you catch my drift. with more bud sites and more root mass, the yield should increase.
a veg and 4 weeks of 12|12 with MH (instead of switching to HPS right on the flip or just going the whole way through with it including veg) took me to the next level in a cabinet (horizontal) I'm trying to hit a pound of smokeable in off a 400W light. best so far after a year and a half is 12 ounces. average is 9 - 10 ounces. sog, 4" rockwool blocks flood and drain. 5" centers, adjust-a-wing medium, lumatek, 24 plants (but more mountainous/indica than your strain tho new stuff is kush and doesn't yield as well as previous hybrid)
I also am a staunch follower of lucas. strict purist is good. you can also pull some sneaky tricks borrowed from the green house industry and get your P-K a bit higher in week 1 through 3. idea is to go up from the 1400 ppm (or 1000 ppm) Lucas to, say 1600 to 1800 AND MAKE SURE IT IS MAINTAINED HIGH. keeping roots on the wetter side (while still maintaining health) and higher TDS or ppm at the appropriate time reduces stretch and works. i heard this re-greenhouse tomatoes and tried it. just get it back down after good bud set so more water is available and expansion/cell division resumes in earnest.
and i noticed a difference when i went with 36 hours of dark on the flip. like bud sites showing 6-7 days sooner (!!)
can you get something white on the whole floor? my light meter doesn't really register much difference with more upwards reflection but the plants benefit. the more blue light you can get on leaves (even underside) the better in terms of stretch. and since you grow strains with equatorial in them, you need as many advantages as you can get.
thank you for posting this journal. words cannot describe what it has done for me. i also run verticals and have problems getting small rooted cuttings to develop evenly because i go from rockwool starter plugs to hydroton.... always need a week of separation when crossing a media barrier (wet - rockwool, moist - perlite, dry - hydroton) so can now use net cups with the rockwool in perlite in mini hempy beercups till loading them in the hydroton filled vertical. I'm mostly on cannibis-world.org but this site has been HUGE for info.
peace
ps. try an MH bulb
Xare
Well-Known Member
Thanks for dropping in 
Ive been thinking about improvements that I could make to reach 1 gram per watt. As it is I am getting around .6 grams per watt.
When this current batch is done and removed from the flower chamber I plan on replacing the lame white cardboard with some proper reflective walls. As well as upgrading my reflector to an Umbrella style one that will more evenly cover my 4x4 space.
Then the next batch going in to flower will be experimental. Instead of Lollypopping I plan on stripping the upper fan leaf and allowing the lower branching to form and fill in with buds. Upper fans removed on day 14 and day 40 of flower.
This is a technique employed by a SOG grower named Jrosek. He does 25 clones under a 600 hps in 1 gallon buckets and yields around 2 pounds per batch.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=1942467&postcount=39
Jrosek is one of the main reasons I grow SOG.
Ive been thinking about improvements that I could make to reach 1 gram per watt. As it is I am getting around .6 grams per watt.
When this current batch is done and removed from the flower chamber I plan on replacing the lame white cardboard with some proper reflective walls. As well as upgrading my reflector to an Umbrella style one that will more evenly cover my 4x4 space.
Then the next batch going in to flower will be experimental. Instead of Lollypopping I plan on stripping the upper fan leaf and allowing the lower branching to form and fill in with buds. Upper fans removed on day 14 and day 40 of flower.
This is a technique employed by a SOG grower named Jrosek. He does 25 clones under a 600 hps in 1 gallon buckets and yields around 2 pounds per batch.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=1942467&postcount=39
Jrosek is one of the main reasons I grow SOG.
Cool!
Jrosek's cut looks like it has more indica in it than what you run.... but in any case there is more benefit to growing bud than fan leaves as long as the plant has the structure you like. At 2 weeks and then at 6 weeks works for fan leaf removal. Lollypopping or pistilwhipping is fine... think the intention was more for SOGs with 3 - 4 ft. plants in them b/c even with 400W, the penetration is enough to fire up lower bud sites. If they are removed yield takes a hit unless the grower is inexperienced.
In your case you will like the results. You can always let it go more than 2 weeks then start thinning at 4 wks. I just cleared out the top fan leaves in my experimental 400W cabinet but that was at 2.5 wks, only on some plants and was done so they don't hit the light. I am presently whacking most all fan leaves in another system (vertical) right now. Lots of theory and diff opinions and best way is to just try it.
Your plants are shorter and would benefit by NOT lollypopping, in my opinion, as long as you manage bud sites and open them up. suckers can still go but wait till your sure stretch is done or it will turbo charge the stretch. Basic pruning, take of side branches increases height and you don't want that. Please keep using a horizontal orientated light. You talked about an umbrella-style and I hope yer not going to a vertical bulb in one of those growstars or supernova. If I could get you to try an Adjust-a-wing... oh man you'd like it.
If you rock a MH bulb until 3 or 4 weeks into flower, you will increase your yield in my opinion. (don't forget to then switch to HPS). The plant will stack nodes, stretch will be down and the blue light will also result in a more robust root system. If you have circulation fans blowing well, expect a thicker stalk. If you have the ability to precision control your temps/humidity, drop temps on the flip till the stretch ends. As calyxs start to stack, get it hotter then.
Anyways, thank you for the reference to icmg thread. Something to read all night !! I'll be changing/new account my handle to match my icmag and cannabis-world handle so i'll post that in all of my current 4 posts. The info i wrote to you is from my direct experience and has been tested and proved in my space with the strains I work with. Most important is the bulb... don't think the lumens are more important than spectrum at the flip and thru stretch. If you can afford it, try the MH and don't switch it out till almost 4 weeks. Trust me. For people who can't afford both bulbs and read Jorge's bibles, it's better to go with just an HPS but you are not a beginner. The HPS' lumen advantage is really only necessary once sugar leaves have popped out. IT DOES NOT INCREASE BUD SITES IN EARLY FLOWERING. in fact it will work against SOG growers b/c cannabis is super competitive and stretches/blocks out other plants in order to find the blue light. HPS is wrong spectrum but more power.
I have a vertical thread and a "trying to hit a pound with one 400W" thread on cannibis-world.org. You can find it if you want to check me out (under a diff handle) but that is only for your entertaiment and will not really impact what you are doing. A very experienced grower there (they all are) reccos using a mixture of HPS and MH. Interesting. Another very good grower (considered one of the best north of the border, in the entire country, by Marc Emery's guy) uses HPS exclusively. So what do you do? Well, neither guy runs high density systems and grow trees. If buddy number 2 only rocks HPS then MH isn't totally necessary unless there's an advantage. Well, in SOG (horizontal like you and my cabinet or vertical like my other work) small adjustments result in huge gains. These other guys veg for 2 or 3 months. We go a week so any little thing we can do is compressed and it's impact is magnified. The MH only switched to an HPS at 4 weeks (on an 8 wk strain) is just sucha thing,
peace
Jrosek's cut looks like it has more indica in it than what you run.... but in any case there is more benefit to growing bud than fan leaves as long as the plant has the structure you like. At 2 weeks and then at 6 weeks works for fan leaf removal. Lollypopping or pistilwhipping is fine... think the intention was more for SOGs with 3 - 4 ft. plants in them b/c even with 400W, the penetration is enough to fire up lower bud sites. If they are removed yield takes a hit unless the grower is inexperienced.
In your case you will like the results. You can always let it go more than 2 weeks then start thinning at 4 wks. I just cleared out the top fan leaves in my experimental 400W cabinet but that was at 2.5 wks, only on some plants and was done so they don't hit the light. I am presently whacking most all fan leaves in another system (vertical) right now. Lots of theory and diff opinions and best way is to just try it.
Your plants are shorter and would benefit by NOT lollypopping, in my opinion, as long as you manage bud sites and open them up. suckers can still go but wait till your sure stretch is done or it will turbo charge the stretch. Basic pruning, take of side branches increases height and you don't want that. Please keep using a horizontal orientated light. You talked about an umbrella-style and I hope yer not going to a vertical bulb in one of those growstars or supernova. If I could get you to try an Adjust-a-wing... oh man you'd like it.
If you rock a MH bulb until 3 or 4 weeks into flower, you will increase your yield in my opinion. (don't forget to then switch to HPS). The plant will stack nodes, stretch will be down and the blue light will also result in a more robust root system. If you have circulation fans blowing well, expect a thicker stalk. If you have the ability to precision control your temps/humidity, drop temps on the flip till the stretch ends. As calyxs start to stack, get it hotter then.
Anyways, thank you for the reference to icmg thread. Something to read all night !! I'll be changing/new account my handle to match my icmag and cannabis-world handle so i'll post that in all of my current 4 posts. The info i wrote to you is from my direct experience and has been tested and proved in my space with the strains I work with. Most important is the bulb... don't think the lumens are more important than spectrum at the flip and thru stretch. If you can afford it, try the MH and don't switch it out till almost 4 weeks. Trust me. For people who can't afford both bulbs and read Jorge's bibles, it's better to go with just an HPS but you are not a beginner. The HPS' lumen advantage is really only necessary once sugar leaves have popped out. IT DOES NOT INCREASE BUD SITES IN EARLY FLOWERING. in fact it will work against SOG growers b/c cannabis is super competitive and stretches/blocks out other plants in order to find the blue light. HPS is wrong spectrum but more power.
I have a vertical thread and a "trying to hit a pound with one 400W" thread on cannibis-world.org. You can find it if you want to check me out (under a diff handle) but that is only for your entertaiment and will not really impact what you are doing. A very experienced grower there (they all are) reccos using a mixture of HPS and MH. Interesting. Another very good grower (considered one of the best north of the border, in the entire country, by Marc Emery's guy) uses HPS exclusively. So what do you do? Well, neither guy runs high density systems and grow trees. If buddy number 2 only rocks HPS then MH isn't totally necessary unless there's an advantage. Well, in SOG (horizontal like you and my cabinet or vertical like my other work) small adjustments result in huge gains. These other guys veg for 2 or 3 months. We go a week so any little thing we can do is compressed and it's impact is magnified. The MH only switched to an HPS at 4 weeks (on an 8 wk strain) is just sucha thing,
peace
Xare
Well-Known Member
MH through the two week pre-flower stretch sounds logical. My next ballast will be a conversion.
Jrosek uses a mini Sunsoaker umbrella reflector, the bulb is still mounted horizontally. I think it will fill out my area a bit better then the basic rectangle one I use now.
After researching his SOG I might rethink my position on 1 gallon Hempys. Maybe try one and compare its yield with a two liter clone.
His stripping practice is pretty interesting and I just found out that Dali Hempy does the same type of defoliation in flower.
Jrosek uses a mini Sunsoaker umbrella reflector, the bulb is still mounted horizontally. I think it will fill out my area a bit better then the basic rectangle one I use now.
After researching his SOG I might rethink my position on 1 gallon Hempys. Maybe try one and compare its yield with a two liter clone.
His stripping practice is pretty interesting and I just found out that Dali Hempy does the same type of defoliation in flower.
I see you found c-w.org!! cool. I'll respond right after your first post there so check back.
I'm going to try and also post here because this site has been a huge help to me, I'm grateful for it, most of the searches I do on google for specific things return rollitup in the first few results and the info is usually exactly what I need. Not trying to redirect members to the other site; just put a lot of work into my posts there.
I thought maybe you had digital ballasts in which case you can just plug a bulb in. maybe you meant conversion bulb instead of conversion ballast. In any case I've been very happy with Lumatek. I warranty'd one recently and it went off very well.... called head office in Cali and they set me up locally. re-re so easy.
while I was in the shop, the guy (hydro store) told me that 25% of all Lumateks come back (but that there is never a problem exchanging them). He said Quantum never come back. I need 400W, Quantum didn't have 400W at the time... I may try Quantum in the future. I use vertical systems from a lady who also distributes Quantum and she said the 600W run very cool. the Lumateks get hot. Digital's are the way to go: cooler, safer, maybe more light output.
checkout the adjust-a-wings (adjustawings.com). I use them, as you will see on the other site. I bought a light meter off eBay and tested it out with 250W, 400W and 600W.
the result/conclusion? it's hard to improve on penetration using a reflector. You are mainly at the mercy of the wattage of the bulb for penetration... some reflectors can sort of increase the angles of penetration (instead of just straight down it sort of also comes in from the sides) but what seems really important for SOG is footprint coverage. The double-parabolic style of adjust-a-wings has the horizontal bulb covering the area a naked bulb would.... but it concentrates reflected light to the outside edges of the foot print. when you measure the light (foot candle readings) it falls off as you move laterally away from the bulb but then as you move under the edges of the parabolic shape, the readings jump up again!! It's really cool and the plants respond.
they are expensive, don't bother with the super-spreader option (waste of time).
read the whole thread on icmag. Jrosek left but reappears right towards the end. chef is interesting. the big bed Jro was doing was looking awesome! the logic behind it makes total sense!! and the maintenance would be quite low. I also like you auto-irrigation system here... so many options!!
theoretically, less media (2 L vs. 1 gallon) could drive growth faster as wet/dry cycle is reduced as the plant gets bigger. More work obviously (unless your auto system is dialed - then it's just turning up the frequency of irrigations) but the yield should improve! there is that fine dance between too small and too big right? all about optimums...
*now posting under the user name "disciple"
I'm going to try and also post here because this site has been a huge help to me, I'm grateful for it, most of the searches I do on google for specific things return rollitup in the first few results and the info is usually exactly what I need. Not trying to redirect members to the other site; just put a lot of work into my posts there.
I thought maybe you had digital ballasts in which case you can just plug a bulb in. maybe you meant conversion bulb instead of conversion ballast. In any case I've been very happy with Lumatek. I warranty'd one recently and it went off very well.... called head office in Cali and they set me up locally. re-re so easy.
while I was in the shop, the guy (hydro store) told me that 25% of all Lumateks come back (but that there is never a problem exchanging them). He said Quantum never come back. I need 400W, Quantum didn't have 400W at the time... I may try Quantum in the future. I use vertical systems from a lady who also distributes Quantum and she said the 600W run very cool. the Lumateks get hot. Digital's are the way to go: cooler, safer, maybe more light output.
checkout the adjust-a-wings (adjustawings.com). I use them, as you will see on the other site. I bought a light meter off eBay and tested it out with 250W, 400W and 600W.
the result/conclusion? it's hard to improve on penetration using a reflector. You are mainly at the mercy of the wattage of the bulb for penetration... some reflectors can sort of increase the angles of penetration (instead of just straight down it sort of also comes in from the sides) but what seems really important for SOG is footprint coverage. The double-parabolic style of adjust-a-wings has the horizontal bulb covering the area a naked bulb would.... but it concentrates reflected light to the outside edges of the foot print. when you measure the light (foot candle readings) it falls off as you move laterally away from the bulb but then as you move under the edges of the parabolic shape, the readings jump up again!! It's really cool and the plants respond.
they are expensive, don't bother with the super-spreader option (waste of time).
read the whole thread on icmag. Jrosek left but reappears right towards the end. chef is interesting. the big bed Jro was doing was looking awesome! the logic behind it makes total sense!! and the maintenance would be quite low. I also like you auto-irrigation system here... so many options!!
theoretically, less media (2 L vs. 1 gallon) could drive growth faster as wet/dry cycle is reduced as the plant gets bigger. More work obviously (unless your auto system is dialed - then it's just turning up the frequency of irrigations) but the yield should improve! there is that fine dance between too small and too big right? all about optimums...
*now posting under the user name "disciple"
Xare
Well-Known Member
Yea, registered to cw awhile ago to read Lucas's posts.
I have a Digital Greenhouse 600 watt ballast. It came with an HPS bulb but I think your right I can use MH in it. I guess I just need a Metal Halide Conversion bulb.
The rectangle reflector I have now throws more of its light back and forth and is weaker on the sides. So it has a rectangle footprint. I think something with a square footprint will be more efficient in my space.
I read that whole "Bigger is Better" thread before I setup this SOG and again a few days ago. I also just finished the sticky there on "Defoliation High Yield technique"
I have a Digital Greenhouse 600 watt ballast. It came with an HPS bulb but I think your right I can use MH in it. I guess I just need a Metal Halide Conversion bulb.
The rectangle reflector I have now throws more of its light back and forth and is weaker on the sides. So it has a rectangle footprint. I think something with a square footprint will be more efficient in my space.
I read that whole "Bigger is Better" thread before I setup this SOG and again a few days ago. I also just finished the sticky there on "Defoliation High Yield technique"
REALSTYLES
Well-Known Member
I wish I could do SOG but my plants get big
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/357800-blue-dream-grand-daddy-purple.html see for yourself
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/357800-blue-dream-grand-daddy-purple.html see for yourself
Hope you like how I apply the technique. Full Journal to be posted (on the other site at least) in a few weeks.
I really like how meticulous and methodical you are!
Keeftreez is awesome. His grow tunnels are PRIME examples of the wonders of parabolic reflection. hope you've seen those threads. mad production out of 400W bulbs!!
thank you for the reference to his thread on defoliation. just settling in for a nice long read.
peace
*reading the keef thread now, f*cking incredible!!! I'm chopping the 1lb/400W cabinet... no fan will be safe!
thank you again so much. (and keef had a slightly different handle when he did the grow tunnel thread. search w/google... think it'll appear on c-w reposted by a different user like Agent Smith. Strongly consider the parabolic reflector!!! build it like they show (super easy) or buy adjust-a-wings.)
I really like how meticulous and methodical you are!
Keeftreez is awesome. His grow tunnels are PRIME examples of the wonders of parabolic reflection. hope you've seen those threads. mad production out of 400W bulbs!!
thank you for the reference to his thread on defoliation. just settling in for a nice long read.
peace
*reading the keef thread now, f*cking incredible!!! I'm chopping the 1lb/400W cabinet... no fan will be safe!
thank you again so much. (and keef had a slightly different handle when he did the grow tunnel thread. search w/google... think it'll appear on c-w reposted by a different user like Agent Smith. Strongly consider the parabolic reflector!!! build it like they show (super easy) or buy adjust-a-wings.)
Xare
Well-Known Member
I would have stripped the batch I have in flower now but ive already lolly popped them during the first bit of flower. So most of the lower branching was removed. I noticed that this batch of clones grew a fair amount of branches even tho I didnt veg them out at all this time.
The way I see it Lollypopping and Stripping are exclusive to each other in a SOG, you either do one or the other. Try to get a bunch of single cola lollys crammed in together or strip and let the lower buds fill in with a smaller number of plants.
I have tried to do 36 clones in my space but it was cramped. I think 25 clones with some developed lower branching and defoliation of the top canopy sounds like a nice balance for my SOG space.
I ran an indica before in my setup that was alot shorter and it was pretty branchy. It yielded the same .6 grams per watt.
Tonight I fill up the bubble cloner with cuts from my WP mothers. They will root for the next 3 weeks. And they will be the first batch I try the stripping on.
The mini sunsoaker says its a parabolic design because you can raise or lower the light in the reflector thus adjusting the light, but its not curved like the adjust a wings. I know other growers that use the adjust a wings, they use them with multiple lights. The open ended design makes them suitable for this.
I will just be running one light in this location. So Iam leaning toward this closed in style of the parabolic umbrella that Jrosek uses.
When reading around I found another grower named Killa12345 that grows with 1 gallon hempys and a 600 watter, he was growing WW sog and getting 1.5-2 LB with no stripping.
So there may be some truth to the As Below, So Above - Roots to Buds correlation. Bigger pots for bigger yields.
The way I see it Lollypopping and Stripping are exclusive to each other in a SOG, you either do one or the other. Try to get a bunch of single cola lollys crammed in together or strip and let the lower buds fill in with a smaller number of plants.
I have tried to do 36 clones in my space but it was cramped. I think 25 clones with some developed lower branching and defoliation of the top canopy sounds like a nice balance for my SOG space.
I ran an indica before in my setup that was alot shorter and it was pretty branchy. It yielded the same .6 grams per watt.
Tonight I fill up the bubble cloner with cuts from my WP mothers. They will root for the next 3 weeks. And they will be the first batch I try the stripping on.
The mini sunsoaker says its a parabolic design because you can raise or lower the light in the reflector thus adjusting the light, but its not curved like the adjust a wings. I know other growers that use the adjust a wings, they use them with multiple lights. The open ended design makes them suitable for this.
I will just be running one light in this location. So Iam leaning toward this closed in style of the parabolic umbrella that Jrosek uses.
When reading around I found another grower named Killa12345 that grows with 1 gallon hempys and a 600 watter, he was growing WW sog and getting 1.5-2 LB with no stripping.
So there may be some truth to the As Below, So Above - Roots to Buds correlation. Bigger pots for bigger yields.
Xare
Well-Known Member
I can attest to the fact that my 1 gallon hempy mothers that have been in the grow room for about a month do seem to show more Vigor then the two liter hempy mothers.
They are now the same height and tonight they are getting a major trim down.
If I was ever to switch to 1 gallon hempys for my sog, well that would call for a new Journal
Something like: "1 gram per watt Hempy SOG"
They are now the same height and tonight they are getting a major trim down.
If I was ever to switch to 1 gallon hempys for my sog, well that would call for a new Journal
Something like: "1 gram per watt Hempy SOG"
Xare
Well-Known Member
White Poison gets big too, I have some 9 footers outdoors. Its all in how you manage the plants.
Tiger Woods
Well-Known Member
Funny you mentioned your outdoor grow been looing for the link. Will you post that icmag thread of yours again please and thank you. Love your grows
Peace and good vibes
Peace and good vibes
Tiger Woods
Well-Known Member
Sorry about the double post but the link to the method of keeping your girls in veg outdoors as well please, it was on icmag too.
notoriousb
Well-Known Member
daamn 2 lb's under a 600w??Thanks for dropping in
Ive been thinking about improvements that I could make to reach 1 gram per watt. As it is I am getting around .6 grams per watt.
When this current batch is done and removed from the flower chamber I plan on replacing the lame white cardboard with some proper reflective walls. As well as upgrading my reflector to an Umbrella style one that will more evenly cover my 4x4 space.
Then the next batch going in to flower will be experimental. Instead of Lollypopping I plan on stripping the upper fan leaf and allowing the lower branching to form and fill in with buds. Upper fans removed on day 14 and day 40 of flower.
This is a technique employed by a SOG grower named Jrosek. He does 25 clones under a 600 hps in 1 gallon buckets and yields around 2 pounds per batch.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=1942467&postcount=39
Jrosek is one of the main reasons I grow SOG.
that's awesome! do you know if he hand waters his hempys?I think Im switching to that style of about 25 clones in one gal hempys for my next indoor run
you mentioned there's no run off when you feed, but do you still make drainage holes in the bottom of your hempys?
That 5hit
Well-Known Member
me 2daamn 2 lb's under a 600w??
I think Im switching to that style of about 25 clones in one gal hempys for my next indoor run
you mentioned there's no run off when you feed, but do you still make drainage holes in the bottom of your hempys?
how long did he vegg for
notoriousb
Well-Known Member
thats another question I forgot to ask. thanks 5hit