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Jeanka with Haze your problem will be light penetration into the canopy - haze can grow tall, indoor lighting looses intensity with each inch from the bulb. The lower parts of a tall haze plant will be useless with a 400 watt light.
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Canopy light penetration, HPS:
1000 Watt: to 36"
600 Watt: to 29"
400 Watt: to 21"
250 Watt: to 16"
150 Watt: to 12"
I use a 600 Watt HPS and I like to keep my plants under 18", a very tight canopy. I've grown 30" colas my style with a 600 Watt, the bottoms took an extra week to fill out and finish. With my Crop Circle Of Bud growing style I estimate my canopy light penetration to be half that suggested above, because of the tighter canopy.
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You can plan your grow to keep your plants short - I've ran a 48" Kali Mist with 4" of height over the bucket rim, most of my plants are 12"-18" tall and yield 3 litres of 4 week cured bud (60g - 75g per litre). These two Strawberry Diesel each have 6'6" of stem and are less than 6" tall from the bucket rim, each produced 2 to 2.5 litres of 4 week cured bud (60g-75g / litre). I could comfortably fit 12 of these in my 8'x3' garden, squeeze 14.
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I use a 600 watt HPS on a light mover, I'm building a custom 300 watt LED light and reflector to replace the HPS. The light mover lets you double the size of your garden, long and narrow to get maximum light to the edges. I find that it increases yield per square foot over a double size garden, my theory is that the plant's light receptors use the light more efficiently so there seems to be more production than extra energy put into the system - when really it is just that a stationary light is less efficient.
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Drufiss is correct, look for 50 watts HID (HPS & MH) per square foot with a stationary light, 25 with a light mover. A 600 watt light with a rectangular reflector has a 3' x 4' light foot print (12 square feet x 50 w/sq') and a 1000 watt light has a light footprint of 4' x 5' (20 sq' x 50 w/sq'). Double
the length for a light mover, width stays the same.
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