Help with Fungus Gnats

mcpurple

Well-Known Member
Ok I purchased the neem oil from petco they had it labeled as 100% organic neem oil for fleas and ticks how should I dilute this for use?
i used a teaspoon per gallon. and i didnt know petco had neem

Save your self a headache, the neem is a joke when it comes to the larva, you have to use so much that it virtually kills the plant. And it only slightly deters the adults from laying more eggs in the soil. Go get a 5$ bag of Diotamacious Earth from walmart or lowes and put a thin layer over the top of soil. Bottom water for a few days and viola. Ez Pz.
not really, ive done it and it worked fine and it would take alot to kill the plant. and it suffocates the eggs in the soil. you should put down something unless you have tryed. and i also mentioned the sand as a extra precaution.

neem works great dude, its also a foliage spray, it keeps any bugs away and kills alot as well. ive used it against mites with great results in 4 days along with ladybugs. also used to to rid of thrips. plus its organic and plant safe
 

mcpurple

Well-Known Member
1-5 dilution of 3% h202 to water, shit will be dead within hours. Not to mention it will kill off some of the left over organic material in the soil thats attracting the gnats and larva in the first place. Oh and if adults land to lay more eggs, they wont make it far, try getting it on your skin.
h202 is not good to use in soil. only in hydro
 

del66666

Well-Known Member
just be careful if spray leaves with neem and then put near hot light, best to leave lights off a little extra or could suffocate plant, i agree its great stuff, its helping me beat spider mites at mo, smells like onions and chocolate.
 
yep its the MG problem I'm picking up foxfarm organic soil on the way home for the next grow set once I've got these fuckers under control. I will post pictures tonight of the damage to the plants hoping because their autos that they can still be saved.
 

reh420

Member
H202 is not bad for soil if used as a treatment, people who grow hydro sometimes use it to help oxygenate the water (ghetto hydro systems). Don't get it twisted, the reason this person has fungus gnats in the first place is from moisture and too much rotting organic matter in his/her soil. Not only do you kill off some of the organic matter, but you add oxygen to the roots that are being damaged by the larva as well. I had this very problem about a week ago, had yellowing on lower growth, poor/slow growth and gnats whooping my gals. Treated with 1-5 h202-water, and could not find a single gnat thereafter, it was literally overnight growth picked back up and we are back at DEFCON 5.
 

Crypnotic

Active Member
Seems like your getting alot advice, some of it conflicting. I've done alot research on gnats. I had them for the first time and I killed them off in 10 days. First, neem oil works. Neem comes from an indica plant and has been used on cannabis plants for centuries. Neem produces a chemical that works like thc in humans. It tricks the bugs into thinking it time to lay eggs when they are not ready. It stops the adults from eating (sucking sap from you leaves, and hurting your growth), stops them from laying more eggs, thins their exoskeleton, and kills them in three to ten days. Follow the directions on the bottle. Dont stop using for two weeks and dont miss a treatment or the gnats will start all over again. Second, now you want to attack the larvae that are in your soil eating your roots. Purchase Mosquito Dunks. MD's have bacteria in it causes the larvae to stop eating immediatley. Then they die of starvation. To use MD, cut on quater dunk and put in a one gallon jug. Water plants with this every watering. Third, place a layer of peralite on the tops soil. This will help to puncture the shells of the gnats that emerge from the soil as well as the adults trying to land to lay eggs (they are now vulnerable due to the neem.) Do this to the letter and gnats will be gone for good in ten to fourteen days. DE and sand can choke of air to the roots and hurt growth. Perlite wont do that. Hope this helps and clears up a few things.
 

mcpurple

Well-Known Member
H202 is not bad for soil if used as a treatment, people who grow hydro sometimes use it to help oxygenate the water (ghetto hydro systems). Don't get it twisted, the reason this person has fungus gnats in the first place is from moisture and too much rotting organic matter in his/her soil. Not only do you kill off some of the organic matter, but you add oxygen to the roots that are being damaged by the larva as well. I had this very problem about a week ago, had yellowing on lower growth, poor/slow growth and gnats whooping my gals. Treated with 1-5 h202-water, and could not find a single gnat thereafter, it was literally overnight growth picked back up and we are back at DEFCON 5.
yes but it also kills off alot of BENEFICIAL organisms and stuff that the plant uses. id only use if in hydro
 

mcpurple

Well-Known Member
Seems like your getting alot advice, some of it conflicting. I've done alot research on gnats. I had them for the first time and I killed them off in 10 days. First, neem oil works. Neem comes from an indica plant and has been used on cannabis plants for centuries. Neem produces a chemical that works like thc in humans. It tricks the bugs into thinking it time to lay eggs when they are not ready. It stops the adults from eating (sucking sap from you leaves, and hurting your growth), stops them from laying more eggs, thins their exoskeleton, and kills them in three to ten days. Follow the directions on the bottle. Dont stop using for two weeks and dont miss a treatment or the gnats will start all over again. Second, now you want to attack the larvae that are in your soil eating your roots. Purchase Mosquito Dunks. MD's have bacteria in it causes the larvae to stop eating immediatley. Then they die of starvation. To use MD, cut on quater dunk and put in a one gallon jug. Water plants with this every watering. Third, place a layer of peralite on the tops soil. This will help to puncture the shells of the gnats that emerge from the soil as well as the adults trying to land to lay eggs (they are now vulnerable due to the neem.) Do this to the letter and gnats will be gone for good in ten to fourteen days. DE and sand can choke of air to the roots and hurt growth. Perlite wont do that. Hope this helps and clears up a few things.
nice read but neem does not come from an indica plant although it does come from a plant but not a marijauna plant. never mind that i thought you meant indica cannibus, and not Azadirachta indica witch is the real name of the tree
 

reh420

Member
H202 will def not hurt your plant in soil, it might lower the macronutrient content for a few days till you feed it, but it certainly doesn't hurt any micronutrient balance, or PH like some of these other methods. Rather than suffocating your soil with a layer of DE or sand, you pump the shit out of it with Oxygen. Oh and all those ded bodies decay into some good macronutes anyways!
 

Crypnotic

Active Member
nice read but neem does not come from an indica plant although it does come from a plant but not a marijauna plant. never mind that i thought you meant indica cannibus, and not Azadirachta indica witch is the real name of the tree
Neem is a indica, and grows in the the region where most of the best indica cannabis plants come from. They are both in the species of INDICA.
 

reh420

Member
From GC, just throwing it out there-


by Xeger

Summary: A subtly dangerous pest that can attack your plants, causing serious, permanent damage with few external symptoms!
Scientific name: Bradysia coprophila (family Sciaridae, order Diptera)
Size: 3-4mm (1/8")

Description: Slender, grey or black body; one pair of clear, unveined wings. Long legs and a tendency to fly aimlessly around, alighting occasionally on the leaves of plants.


Like many insects, fungus gnats develop through metamorphosis. They start out as larvae in the top layers of soil, develop into pupae and thence into the winged, flying adult. Total developmental time to adulthood is 2-4 weeks. During the larval stage they feed on fungi in the soil as well as decaying organic matter and plant roots. Once they reach adulthood, fungus gnats typically last just long enough to seed a new generation of larvae.

Why should I care?

These little suckers are not your friends. If you grow houseplants or any kind of potted plant, fungus gnats can become a major problem very quickly. This is because the larvae, when they run out of fungus in the soil, will start to nibble at your plants' roots! While it would take a very large developing population of gnat larvae to completely destroy a plant in this way, the gnats' feasting can seriously stunt your plant's growth, causing discoloration in the foliage and malformed branches and limbs. The larvae may also aid in the spread of plant diseases with scary-sounding names, such as: Pythium, Verticillium, Cylindrocladium, and Scelerotinia.

Fungus gnats are particularly troublesome because the larvae prefer an organic growth medium. They can actually cause more harm to potted plants grown in sterilized potting soil than to plants grown in the ground! They also thrive in moist environments, meaning that overwatered houseplants are a prime breeding ground.

Marijuana cultivators particularly need to be on the lookout for fungus gnats, as the larvae, in addition to attacking the roots of your precious ganja plants, will leave behind casings that quickly ruin the drainage properties of your soil. Cannabis requires good drainage and a steady but small supply of water, so an overwatered marijuana plant that falls victim to a fungus gnat colony has two strikes against it. If an infestation occurs during the flowering stage of the plant's growth, it could seriously reduce yield.

How do I detect them?

Like most tiny flying critters, fungus gnats have an irrational attraction to the color yellow. Purchase some yellow sticky cards from a garden center; yellow sticky tape works equally well. Place the sticky cards near your plants for a few days and observe what gets caught on it. If you see more than a few gnats, there are most likely larvae in your soil.

Once you've spotted a likely infestation, cut a slice of potato of about one square inch, and 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. Place it on the soil in your plant's pot and wait 4-8 hours. Fungus gnat larvae really love a good snack of potato. Remove the potato and count the number of larvae that have moved onto it; this will give you a good idea of how big an infestation you're dealing with.

How do I get rid of them?

Getting rid of the adults is a snap: simply give them a sticky yellow surface to land on, and within a few days you'll have enough dead adults to make a tasty dinner of gnat casserole (YMMV). The larvae are a bit trickier. The first step toward getting rid of them is to starve your plant of water for a few days, letting the top layers of soil dry completely. Larvae cannot develop in dry soil, though they can survive a drought by suspending their development. Don't worry about killing your plant; it takes serious dedication to kill most houseplants from underwatering, while overwatering a plant can kill it very quickly.

Once the soil is dry, mix 1 part hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution with 4 parts water. Use 3% solution, which you can find in any drug store or in the hygiene/medicine aisle of a chain grocery store. You can use a stronger solution if you change the water mixture appropriately, and don't be too concerned with proportions; it would take a very high concentration of H2O2 to hurt your plants. Just make sure you buy pure H2O2 with no chemical additives! Hydrogen peroxide is often sold as a topical disinfectant, and things that are good for your wounds may not be so healthy for your plants.

Water your plants as you normally would, using the hydrogen peroxide solution and taking care to get good coverage of the entire top layer of soil. Use a spray bottle if desired. The soil will fizz for a few minutes after application; this is natural. The gnat larvae die on contact with the H2O2. After a few minutes the fizzing stops and the H2O2 breaks down into oxygen molecules (which your plants don't mind) and water molecules (which your plants love).

Congratulations! You've just successfully treated your fungus gnat infestation. Monitor the gnat population for a few days with sticky cards, in order to make sure you've got them all. Make sure not to overwater, and consider sometimes adding a little hydrogen peroxide to your daily waterings--in my experience, the plants react well to this little treat. Watch your plants grow big and strong and enjoy the fruits of your labors, whether they be flowers, vegetables, literal fruits, or big sticky nugs of homegrown chronic.
 

Spanishfly

Well-Known Member
They are both in the species of INDICA.
That statement doesn´t make sense. When naming plants we give its genus and then its specific name within that genus. The tree Azadirachta indica is related to mahogany, and is totally UNrelated to Cannabis indica. Quite different genuses, and even plant families.
 

Crypnotic

Active Member
That statement doesn´t make sense. When naming plants we give its genus and then its specific name within that genus. The tree Azadirachta indica is related to mahogany, and is totally UNrelated to Cannabis indica. Quite different genuses, and even plant families.
I didnt say they were in the same Family or Genuses, I said they were in the same species of Indica, meaning that it is from the indian sub contitenent. Species are often, if not always, grouped by geography. I didnt say or imply anything else.
 

lovemug

Well-Known Member
i used sand above the soil and made traps by cutting up fly paper and using pop sicle sticks. left them on the soil for about ten days and it cleared them up. wrap the paper around the pop sicle sticks and throw duct tape over it. use cooking oil to get the just of the sticky crap off your fingers than wash with soap. also make sure to use non toxic fly paper.
 

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