oOBe RyeOo
Active Member
Always 2 steps ahead of everybody, huh? You gave me a pretty good idea of how to cool my cab once I get settled in the new place. It's gonna be in a closet so I have to make sure I can get my temp in line.
Variety Grow - Perpetual, "Mini" ScrOG's, DWC in a Cabinet (First Timer)
- Thread starter jsgamber
- Start date
I try!Here you go GB:
Air Temp: Low 79*, High 85*
Blue Dream: pH 6.0, WT 70*, PPM 675 (with nutes) roots have dropped out of the netpot.
SkyWalker OG #1: pH 5.9, WT 69*, PPM 450 (no nutes) no roots out of the netpot
SkyWalker OG #2: pH 6.4, WT 69*, PPM 450 (no nutes) no roots out of the netpot
SkyWalker OG #3: pH 6.2, WT 69*, PPM 450 (no nutes) no roots out of the netpot
Going to reset all pH down to 5.5. Water levels are about 1.5" below the netpots.
I'm trying to find an SD card for my good camera so I can take pics without the bars from the HID lighting.
Does that mean more roots leads to higher temps? Right now they're only 1/8" long and adding 1*. What happens at 1"? 
The LST is kicking in and the girls are turning back up to the light. This is the first time I've ever done this before and it's pretty cool. I can't wait to start the weaving process!
The LST is kicking in and the girls are turning back up to the light. This is the first time I've ever done this before and it's pretty cool. I can't wait to start the weaving process!
gumball
Well-Known Member
that is interesting. we know it will not increment exponentially because that would raise the rez temps very high once the roots fill out those coolers.
i love LST. i have both of mine pinned down as best I currently can. you will notice very tight internode growth with this CMH, you will love and hate this for LST'ing!!!
i love LST. i have both of mine pinned down as best I currently can. you will notice very tight internode growth with this CMH, you will love and hate this for LST'ing!!!
gumball
Well-Known Member
hope you dont mind, but here are a few pictures of the node spacing on my kush plant. I have recently pulled her top over more horizontally, and I think that has made the top few nodes space out further
View attachment 1326300View attachment 1326299View attachment 1326301
View attachment 1326300View attachment 1326299View attachment 1326301
So if all goes well I'll have 2 or 3 bud sites coming up through each square of my screen. This could get interesting! 
Remember, my plan is to keep the entire main stalk growing in a coil under the screen except for the last main cola. Any growth under the screen will get whacked off once it can't see light or it starts to obstruct airflow.
Man all you guys have been busy since August. I'm still trying to catchup on all of your journals!
Remember, my plan is to keep the entire main stalk growing in a coil under the screen except for the last main cola. Any growth under the screen will get whacked off once it can't see light or it starts to obstruct airflow.Man all you guys have been busy since August. I'm still trying to catchup on all of your journals!
Since these are ScrOG'ettes, the screens will be mounted to the reservoir rather than the cabinet. This makes the whole unit portable! When the screen is attached to the cabinet the plant becomes immovable for the entire grow. Most people have to keep their screens at least 4 to 6 inches above the base of the plant in order to be able to reach back under for maintenance. Even then, later in flowering, when the plant goes wild, the access just goes away. Long story short, I'm looking at 1 to 1.5 inches for the screen.
I finally found a usable SD card for my good camera so as promised here are some good shots of the girls and the chamber in full light!
Skywalker OG #1
Blue Dream
Skywalker OG #2
Skywalker OG #3
And the full cab!
Here's the first fully functional and screened ScrOG'ette or Mini-ScrOG. Finally after nearly 9 months I have fulfilled the title of this thread!!!
2" x 2" squares. The screen is loosely tied down with zip-ties. The screen is bowed up in the middle so I can get my hands underneath but only about an inch at the ends. Now it's just a matter of getting this girl to GROW DAMMIT!
Something else really cool about Panda Film. Dry Erase markers work great for recording information right on top of the rez!
2" x 2" squares. The screen is loosely tied down with zip-ties. The screen is bowed up in the middle so I can get my hands underneath but only about an inch at the ends. Now it's just a matter of getting this girl to GROW DAMMIT!
Something else really cool about Panda Film. Dry Erase markers work great for recording information right on top of the rez!
Here's the cab all screened!
I've also wrapped the panda film around the edges and taped them up sort of like gift wrapping. Now you can see the "table top" I get out of this setup. What I've discovered over the past few days is that the passive intake is underneath the table and is insulated from the top part of the chamber.
Now the cool (pardon the pun) part. Ambient temps in the garage have been hovering from 75* in the day down to 63* at night. I've also measured the air temp from the fan exhaust coming out of the mini-fridge and it's comes out at about 64*. What this means is that I can turn off the fridge when garage temps are below 70* and the chamber stays between 80 and 85*. I think what's happening is cooler air being drawn in below the table doesn't get instantly heated and mixed with the whole chamber. Instead it "seeps" up to the top part, giving a better mix before it get's exhausted out.
So now I need to rig something up that turns the exhaust fans off when the mini-fridge needs to come on and vica versa when the ambient temps switch. Does this seem reasonable? Anybody else have any thoughts? I was thinking of even doing it via a timed method by using a timer to turn the mini-fridge on and off at certain times of the day. That mini-fridge is 3.1 amps which means it runs the same as a 300W bulb if left to run all the time.
I've also wrapped the panda film around the edges and taped them up sort of like gift wrapping. Now you can see the "table top" I get out of this setup. What I've discovered over the past few days is that the passive intake is underneath the table and is insulated from the top part of the chamber.
Now the cool (pardon the pun) part. Ambient temps in the garage have been hovering from 75* in the day down to 63* at night. I've also measured the air temp from the fan exhaust coming out of the mini-fridge and it's comes out at about 64*. What this means is that I can turn off the fridge when garage temps are below 70* and the chamber stays between 80 and 85*.
I think what's happening is cooler air being drawn in below the table doesn't get instantly heated and mixed with the whole chamber. Instead it "seeps" up to the top part, giving a better mix before it get's exhausted out.So now I need to rig something up that turns the exhaust fans off when the mini-fridge needs to come on and vica versa when the ambient temps switch. Does this seem reasonable? Anybody else have any thoughts? I was thinking of even doing it via a timed method by using a timer to turn the mini-fridge on and off at certain times of the day. That mini-fridge is 3.1 amps which means it runs the same as a 300W bulb if left to run all the time.
gumball
Well-Known Member
i know they have little thermostat devices at home depot that you plug a regular 110 plug into and then it plugs into the wall. you can set the temp to come on and off at a certain time, dont know if that helps or not 
oh, it looks damn fine!!!. how much water you gettin in those rez's, a full 2 gallons?
oh, it looks damn fine!!!. how much water you gettin in those rez's, a full 2 gallons?
Fuckin' A! That's what I'd be talking about.i know they have little thermostat devices at home depot that you plug a regular 110 plug into and then it plugs into the wall. you can set the temp to come on and off at a certain time, dont know if that helps or not
oh, it looks damn fine!!!. how much water you gettin in those rez's, a full 2 gallons?
I'm getting just over 1.5 gallons which set's the water level to about 2" below the netpot. As the roots grow out more I'll keep dropping the water level down in order to keep them "reaching" for water. I figure they aren't transpiring much water at all so I can even go as low .5 gallons as long as I can keep water temps and chemistry stable (a nifty use for the spigot!).
So basically I'm starting off Bubbleponics and transitioning to DWC. At some point I could even call up Danielsan and have him ship me 8 gallons of his special HG soil and I can finish flowering in soil all in the same container!
Sometimes I just crack myself up!
I need to go check out your thread and see what you came up with.
Here's my little sample. Black side has a strip of duck tape. Then I use a piece of aluminum tape and wrap that over the edge. Then on the white side I staple on the velcro tape. It's two-sided landscape velcro.
First panda film panel up. It's very versatile in the ways you can open it up without having to take it all the way off, especially for eye protection! The second pic shows the components. On the cab side I have white weather-stripping and then I stapled the velcro over that. Then the thick gray weather-stripping on the door pushes the panda film against the edge of the cabinet opening which creates a light-proof and nearly air-tight seal!
On to the next one. It takes about an hour to put this together without tweaking the panda film out of square. Plus trying to keep the tape away from the parts I don't want it to stick to become a challenge as well. Time to
and then get the next one done. Hopefully see you guys around 4:20.
On to the next one. It takes about an hour to put this together without tweaking the panda film out of square. Plus trying to keep the tape away from the parts I don't want it to stick to become a challenge as well. Time to
and then get the next one done. Hopefully see you guys around 4:20.