Scientific method to curing?

GreenGurl

Well-Known Member
I'm just harvesting my 2nd grow and am kind of a freak about technique... curing has been a very elusive topic (seems "more wuwu, less science").

My question: if I have a hygrometer, can I track how much moisture the buds are giving off during the curing process and make an educated guess as to how much moisture is still in the plant material? For example, the first 24 hours my plants are jarred (after drying to cure state) how much humidity should they be emitting? When they are ready for long term storage (done with the majority of burping), what amount of humidity should be emitted?

If guessing moisture content from evaporative humidity is not possible, it then stands to reason that the most accurate way to cure is by weight. The only issue I have with that is that my wet weight value is the total harvested weight by plant (with hanging stems) but when I jar it all, the majority of stem is removed... How to do a calculation at that point with such bastardized data?

This is super picky I realize, but there has to be some other super geeks out there to answer my query. Big points to anyone who can step in here and offer some hard evidence-based methodology!!!
 

Jerry Garcia

Well-Known Member
This is cut and pasted from another forum...

"You've had a good grow, and it's time for harvest. You've flushed like you're supposed too (depending on your system anywhere from 4-12 days maybe longer). Chop those ladies down. Trim the way you prefer. I like to leave a little of the sweet leaf on as I don't want to handle the buds too much or too long. I hang/line dry until the stem is dry but still flexs/bends a bit. Usually just a couple of days.

Drop those lovely buds into a jar. My preference is 1/2 gallon Ball mason canning jars, easily found at Ace Hardware (can be ordered online with free shipping to your local Ace - they run out a lot but be patient and try again in a week or two). Fill each jar up evenly but don't over-stuff. If you hold the jar horizontal, there should be a gap roughly an inch or so - enough room to slide the hygrometer in.

What's a hygrometer? It's measure humidity. There are analog & digital ones. I prefer digital. The two I like are: the Chaney Indoor Thermometer w/Humidity and the Caliber 3 Hygrometer. Both fairly inexpensive (should be less than $20 each), both are pretty accurate.
Here's the Chaney one (sometimes it has a different brand name but it will look just like this)


So now you just slide the hygrometer in (make sure it's facing out so you can view it, dumbass LOL). Tighten that lid down and put it where you normally cure your stuff.

NOTE: Not every jar needs a hygrometer in it. I use just one per harvest per strain.

After about a couple of hours (takes a bit to get an accurate reading, give it at least 2-4 hrs). Take a look at the Relative Humidity reading.

If more than +70% - buds need to dry longer out of the jar. For me, about every 5% over 70, equals about 10-12 hours outside of jar - but that's different depending on time of year, outside weather, etc... Typically about 12-36 hours more drying time is needed.

65-70% - getting really close to that sweet spot for curing. Keep it in the jars but burp them for a couple of hours, roughly 2-4 hours. Burp 'em, then close the lid, wait 4-6 hours, check RH%, burp again if needed, repeat as needed until you reach the next level. The closer you get to the next level the longer it takes to get an accurate reading, maybe even 12-24 hours. Basically, after every burp I add about 4-6 hours to the wait time between burps until I check again. Getting it down to the next level might take a week or more, and that's ok. The slower the better. Luckily here in Colorado we have low humidity. If in a higher humidity area, say along the coasts, I would want to speed it up just a bit to get to the next level as mold may be a factor

60-65% - this is the Curing stage range. Once we hit this range, keep things sealed unless we want to prepare it for long-term storage, then we'll need to SLOWLY lower down to the next stage. But if you just want to cure it, leave here in this range for a week and longer to cure. Buds should be slightly sticky. Stems should snap. The RH may fluctuate a bit as moisture releases from the bud but it will dissipate/be reabsorbed. If this is for retail, I wait about 10-14 days into cure then bring samples to my dispensary buyers. Most dispensaries tend to like it closer to the 65% as it'll cure while it's on the shelf, plus it'll be stickier, look more appealing & that's what most people are looking for. Closer to 60% is better for smoking/vaping. If it's for myself or my patients, I let it cure for at least 2 weeks to a month. I do take a bit out to try about once a week. Some of my patients like it a little moister than others as it takes a little longer to smoke. Others don't really care too much one way or the other but no one likes it if too moist or too dry/brittle. Some of my patients use those Boveda 65% packets to help keep things where they like it. I tell them to still burp about once a week or so for about an hour when using those packets. I recommend dispensaries use those packets at night in their jars to keep things looking nice & sticky-icky for the next day.

For long term storage - once in this range (60-65), check weekly. If on the higher end, closer to 65, I still burp about every week just for an hour or so. As it slowly drops to 60%, I wait longer & longer between these short burps - we're talking days/weeks here folks not hours between these burps. Once it falls below 60, you have reached the next level. Takes me about 4-6 sometimes 8 weeks.

55-60% - Long term storage stage. I still leave the hygrometer in for about a couple of days/week, just to make sure it's leveled off. Once it has leveled off, then I take the hygrometer out & vacuum seal the jar. I don't usually storage too much for long term usually just 1 jar per harvest, unless it's just some incredible stuff and I want to be able to share it with long distance friends & family when they visit throughout the year.

If for some reason it reads under 55% - either you left it hanging to dry for too long with a fan blowing on it directly or too close to a heat source/vent or you might need to have a humidifier on a timer in the area you dry in (make sure it's not blowing the moisture directly on plants) OR maybe you just need to wait a little longer for your next reading. Wait 12-24 hours, and check again if still under 55 well you just learn a valuable lesson on how not to dry so quickly next time. It'll be shitty to smoke, guess you could grind it or tumble the heck out of it or maybe make tincture/butter/oil but smoke/vape is going to suck. But hey it takes experience, just learn from it....dumbass! LOL!



I think that's about it. This was by no means my very own method that I discovered. It took some trial & error between myself & others. About a month ago, a buddy of mine saw a thread on another forum and they were using the same method almost to a "T". So I'm guessing it's a pretty good method. Like I said, it's pretty stoner-friendly. Kinda hard to screw up as long as you didn't over-dry to bring with. Have patience young jedi.....

Enjoy that lovely properly cured dank!"
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
It's not rocket science guys. Hang your product until it feels dry. Trim said product off the branches and place in any kind of sealed container or bag. 24-48 hours later, the moisture from the inside of the product will evenly distribute ( or sweat) at which time the product should be laid out to dry again, maybe 12-24 hours. Repeat until you can store your product in a jar for an extended period without the product sweating.
 

dan2581

Active Member
It's not rocket science guys. Hang your product until it feels dry. Trim said product off the branches and place in any kind of sealed container or bag. 24-48 hours later, the moisture from the inside of the product will evenly distribute ( or sweat) at which time the product should be laid out to dry again, maybe 12-24 hours. Repeat until you can store your product in a jar for an extended period without the product sweating.
I agree completely. I just chopped 2 plants on saturday night. I hung them to dry in a closet with a circ fan, and actually a humidifier because the winter is so dry. I adjust the humidifier to just over 50% rh so the buds will slow dry. Occasionally at night when its super cold, the RH drops just below 50% to the low 40's. I find after a night at this RH, the outsides of my buds are crispy only after 2-3 days drying. To get even moisture distribution, I pull them down and cut them off the stem, and jar them for 24 hours. They become moist again and I lay them on my drying rack in the dry room to continue drying. Once they are at the cure point, I put them into jars and finish the curing process.
 

Purplekrunchie

Well-Known Member
It's not rocket science guys. Hang your product until it feels dry. Trim said product off the branches and place in any kind of sealed container or bag. 24-48 hours later, the moisture from the inside of the product will evenly distribute ( or sweat) at which time the product should be laid out to dry again, maybe 12-24 hours. Repeat until you can store your product in a jar for an extended period without the product sweating.
You grow weed and brew beer? You need a son?
 

Oldreefer

Well-Known Member
Homebrewer has it...simple and very effective....as long as you pay attention to the first couple of "jarring" times .......
 

andrewcovetsall

Active Member
good info. i got my wireless hygrometer already so ill be trying the huge mason jar idea. o, and i just discovered dry ice hash making. so thats cool too. thx 600 club!!
 

GreenGurl

Well-Known Member
It's not rocket science guys...
How bizarre... It may be true that curing is not rocket science, but that was the kind of detail I was asking for! ;)

Thanks to everyone for responding and a special thanks to Jerry and krok for getting to exactly what I was asking about, woot! I'll let you all know how this information flies over the next few grows. ;D Peace!
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
How bizarre... It may be true that curing is NOT rocket science, but in fact that is what I asked for! ;) And while I am certainly a fan of the "it feels right" method, until I have chance to gain all that experience for myself I appreciate reducing my waste in the process by applying evidence-based communal knowledge to my skill building activities.

Thanks to everyone for responding and a BIG THANKS to Jerry for getting to exactly what I was asking about, woot! I'll let you all know how this information flies over the next few grows. ;D Peace!
I was just making the point that you're over-complicating a generally simple process with the use of a hygrometer or by keeping an eye on the weight of the final product. Dry product weighs about 20% of what the wet product weighed but time can also be an important factor in the curing process. 'Quick drys' often result in a harsher product but allowing time to play it's role allows for some inactive substances to become psychoactive, 2-3 weeks should suffice. I've been at this for 10 years, you're on your second grow, don't make it harder than it has to be ;). Good luck!
 

GreenGurl

Well-Known Member
UPDATE: I got my hygrometer and I love it. Makes it super easy to get the jars to 65% and have them out of your hair-space. Did I say I love it? :D
 
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