Stoner Smurf
Active Member
Hey MM, clear out your inbox.
Medi takes the Under Current RDWC system for a test drive, 6' x 8' Screen of Green.
- Thread starter MediMary
- Start date
AudiA6Driver
Well-Known Member
Ohhh Good!!!!!
MediMary
Well-Known Member
Well over on the farm supposedly someone called canna and they said they don't recommend using cannazyme in a rdwc system(shoot me a message over there or drop by my grow and ill link the thread to you, I dunno if they really called or if it was just some noob talking out his butt. I know for a fact Jackmayoffer used it his first UC run, and maybe his second as well.)
I personally don't like zyme products for general use.
MediMary
Well-Known Member
Thanks for stopping in, sorry I have been slacking on updates, today or tomorrow I promise
(been having some serious problems with my back, just taking it easy, consequently not a lot has gotten done)
NONHater
Well-Known Member
Nice thread, Whatever happened to this guy?haha, yah its easier to be productive stoned than on mushrooms - for sure.
So the first couple pictures is the strain MaryJane from lonestar,
One Seed two sprouts
MediMary
Well-Known Member
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
I use DM Zone and I love the stuff. Never used anything else so can't compare. I keep my water temps below 68 f. And I've always had really nice, really white roots. Healthy as can be. One thing I like so much about zone is the stuff (bear with me I'm not a scientist) makes the water viscosity lower... or something like that, lol. What I mean is that the bubbles without zone are bigger and fewer, but with zone added it makes the water thinner or something so that the bubbles are much smaller and seem to fill the area better. I don't know as this actually helps plants grow, but in my mind the more tinier bubbles the better, to get more oxygen dissolved and get more bubbles to each and every part of all the roots.
Another thing I love about zone is that it lasts seemingly forever. The instructions (which I follow) say to use 1mL per gallon. It's actually quite cheap when you think about it. Another thing I do is use it the whole entire grow. Even when flushing. Hasn't seemed to leave any taste or anything like that in my buds... ask my RIU buds that have smoked my stuff they will tell you it's all good.
Hope that helps a little. And feel free to check what I got going on in my closet if you feel like it.
peace
Another thing I love about zone is that it lasts seemingly forever. The instructions (which I follow) say to use 1mL per gallon. It's actually quite cheap when you think about it. Another thing I do is use it the whole entire grow. Even when flushing. Hasn't seemed to leave any taste or anything like that in my buds... ask my RIU buds that have smoked my stuff they will tell you it's all good.
Hope that helps a little. And feel free to check what I got going on in my closet if you feel like it.
peace
MediMary
Well-Known Member
Always enjoy watching you bro, hope my thread is as entertaining as yours.
I got a badboy T5 from quantum last grow, loved it.
I am going to be stacking it up against a 600watt hps, should be fun.
shit jiga, I been watching you for a long time my friend
. thanks for stopping in. I caught heath robinson over on the mag last week, always nice hearing from him. Funny, remember how I swore off dutch master for life, go out to my mail box the other day, there was a freaking bottle of dutch master cloning gel.
I was like WTF!?! my hydro store just hooked it up and mailed me a free bottle for no reason
Im going to try this again,I WILL NEVER DRIVE A BMW
Attachments
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
HAHAHA... I love it. And I will never cash a big lottery check!!!Im going to try this again,I WILL NEVER DRIVE A BMW
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Never thOught I would be gay enough to drive a volvo either. 35k and 300hp later... Fucking love my s60r
MediMary
Well-Known Member
Beginner FAQ: Practical Water Chemistry
What You Need to Know About Water Chemistry, and Why
Water in nature is rarely pure in the ``distilled water'' sense; it contains dissolved salts, buffers, nutrients, etc., with exact concentrations dependent on local conditions. Fish (and plants) have evolved over millions of years to the specific water conditions in their native habitats and may be unable to survive in significantly different environments.
Beginners (especially the lazy) should take the easy approach of selecting fish whose needs match the qualities of their normal tap water. Alternatively, an advanced (and energetic!) aquarist can change the water characteristics to match the fish's needs, though doing so is almost always more difficult than first appears. In either case, you need to know enough about water chemistry to ensure that the water in your tank has the right properties for the fish you are keeping.
Water has four measurable properties that are commonly used to characterize its chemistry. They are pH, buffering capacity, general hardness and salinity. In addition, there are several nutrients and trace elements.
pH
pH refers to water being either an acid, base, or neither (neutral). A pH of 7 is said to be neutral, a pH below 7 is ``acidic'' and a pH above 7 is ``basic'' or ``alkaline''. Like the Richter scale used to measure earthquakes, the pH scale is logarithmic. A pH of 5.5 is 10 times more acidic than water at a pH of 6.5. Thus, changing the pH by a small amount (suddenly) is more of a chemical change (and more stressful to fish!) than might first appear.
To a fishkeeper, two aspects of pH are important. First, rapid changes in pH are stressful to fish and should be avoided. Changing the pH by more than .3 units per day is known to stress fish. Thus, you want the pH of your tank to remain constant and stable over the long haul. Second, fish have adapted to thrive in a (sometimes narrow) pH range. You want to be sure that your tank's pH matches the specific requirements of the fish you are keeping.
Most fish can adjust to a pH somewhat outside of their optimal range. If your water's pH is naturally within the range of 6.5 to 7.5, you will be able to keep most species of fish without any problems. If your pH lies within this range, there is probably no need to adjust it upward or downward.
Buffering Capacity (KH, Alkalinity)
Buffering capacity refers to water's ability to keep the pH stable as acids or bases are added. pH and buffering capacity are intertwined with one another; although one might think that adding equal volumes of an acid and neutral water would result in a pH halfway in between, this rarely happens in practice. If the water has sufficient buffering capacity, the buffering capacity can absorb and neutralize the added acid without significantly changing the pH. Conceptually, a buffer acts somewhat like a large sponge. As more acid is added, the ``sponge'' absorbs the acid without changing the pH much. The ``sponge's'' capacity is limited however; once the buffering capacity is used up, the pH changes more rapidly as acids are added.
Buffering has both positive and negative consequences. On the plus side, the nitrogen cycle produces nitric acid (nitrate). Without buffering, your tank's pH would drop over time (a bad thing). With sufficient buffering, the pH stays stable (a good thing). On the negative side, hard tap water often almost always has a large buffering capacity. If the pH of the water is too high for your fish, the buffering capacity makes it difficult to lower the pH to a more appropriate value. Naive attempts to change the pH of water usually fail because buffering effects are ignored.
In freshwater aquariums, most of water's buffering capacity is due to carbonates and bicarbonates. Thus, the terms ``carbonate hardness'' (KH), ``alkalinity'' and ``buffering capacity'' are used interchangeably. Although technically not the same things, they are equivalent in practice in the context of fishkeeping. Note: the term ``alkalinity'' should not be confused with the term ``alkaline''. Alkalinity refers to buffering, while alkaline refers to a solution that is a base (i.e., pH > 7).
How much buffering does your tank need? Most aquarium buffering capacity test kits actually measure KH. The larger the KH, the more resistant to pH changes your water will be. A tank's KH should be high enough to prevent large pH swings in your tank over time. If your KH is below roughly 4.5 dH, you should pay special attention to your tank's pH (e.g, test weekly, until you get a feel for how stable the pH is). This is ESPECIALLY important if you neglect to do frequent partial water changes. In particular, the nitrogen cycle creates a tendency for an established tank's pH to decrease over time. The exact amount of pH change depends on the quantity and rate of nitrates produced, as well as the KH. If your pH drops more than roughly two tenths of a point over a month, you should consider increasing the KH or performing partial water changes more frequently. KH doesn't affect fish directly, so there is no need to match fish species to a particular KH.
Note: it is not a good idea to use distilled water in your tank. By definition, distilled water has essentially no KH. That means that adding even a little bit of acid will change the pH significantly (stressing fish). Because of its instability, distilled (or any essentially pure water) is never used directly. Tap water or other salts must first be added to it in order to increase its GH and KH.
General Hardness (GH)
General hardness (GH) refers to the dissolved concentration of magnesium and calcium ions. When fish are said to prefer ``soft'' or ``hard'' water, it is GH (not KH) that is being referred to.
Note: GH, KH and pH form the Bermuda's Triangle of water chemistry. Although the three properties are distinct, they all interact with each other to varying degrees, making it difficult to adjust one without impacting the other. That is one reason why beginning aquarists are advised NOT to tamper with these parameters unless absolutely necessary. As an example, ``hard'' water frequently often comes from limestone aquifers. Limestone contains calcium carbonate, which when dissolved in water increases both the GH (from calcium) and KH (from carbonate) components. Increasing the KH component also usually increases pH as well. Conceptually, the KH acts as a ``sponge'' absorbing the acid present in the water, raising the water's pH.
Water hardness follows the following guidelines. The unit dH means ``degree hardness'', while ppm means ``parts per million'', which is roughly equivalent to mg/L in water. 1 unit dH equals 17.8 ppm CaCO3. Most test kits give the hardness in units of CaCO3; this means the hardness is equivalent to that much CaCO3 in water but does not mean it actually came from CaCO3.
General Hardness
0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, 320 - 530 ppm : hard
higher : liquid rock (Lake Malawi and Los Angeles, CA)
Salinity
Salinity refers to the total amount of dissolved substances. Salinity measurements count both GH and KH components as well as such other substances as sodium. Knowing water's salinity becomes important in salt water aquariums. In freshwater tanks, knowing pH, GH and KH suffices.
Salinity is usually expressed in terms of its specific gravity, the ratio of a solution's weight to weight of an equal volume of distilled water. Because water expands when heated (changing its density), a common reference temperature of 59F degrees is used. Salinity is measured with a hydrometer, which is calibrated for use at a specific temperature (e.g., 75F degrees is common).
One component of salinity that neither GH or KH includes is sodium. Some freshwater fish tolerate (or even prefer) a small amount of salt (it stimulates slime coat growth). Moreover, parasites (e.g., ick) do not tolerate salt at all. Thus, salt in concentrations of (up to) 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons can actually help prevent and cure ick and other parasitic infections.
On the other hand, some species of fish do not tolerate ANY salt well. Scaleless fish (in general) and some Corydoras catfish are far more sensitive to salt than most freshwater fish. Add salt only if you are certain that all of your tank's inhabitants prefer it or can at least tolerate it.
Nutrients and Trace Elements
In addition to GH, KH, pH and salinity, there are a few other substances you may want to know about. Most tap water contains an assortment of nutrients and trace elements in very low concentrations. The presence (or absence) of trace elements can be important in some situations, specifically:
nitrates, which are discussed in great length in this FAQ in conjunction with the NITROGEN CYCLE;
phosphates, the second most prominent nutrient. Phosphates have been linked to algae growth. If you have persistent algae problems, high phosphates may be a contributing factor. In a plant tank, ideal phosphate levels are .2 mg/L or lower. To control algae, frequent partial water changes are often recommended to reduce nutrient levels. If your tap water contains excess phosphate, water changes may be aggravating the situation. Your local water company can tell you what the exact phosphate levels are.
iron, manganese and other trace elements. Plants need iron in trace quantities to grow. Tap water in many areas contains no iron at all. Consult the PLANT FAQ for more details.
Altering Your Water's Chemistry
Hardening Your Water (Raising GH and/or KH)
The following measurements are approximate; use a test kit to verify you've achieved the intended results. Note that if your water is extremely soft to begin with (1 degree KH or less), you may get a drastic change in pH as the buffer is added.
To raise both GH and KH simultaneously, add calcium carbonate (CaCO3). 1/2 teaspoon per 100 liters of water will increase both the KH and GH by about 1-2 dH. Alternatively, add some sea shells, coral, limestone, marble chips, etc. to your filter.
To raise the KH without raising the GH, add sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3), commonly known as baking soda. 1/2 teaspoon per 100 Liters raises the KH by about 1 dH. Sodium bicarbonate drives the pH towards an equilibrium value of 8.2.
Raising and Lowering pH
One can raise or lower pH by adding chemicals. Because of buffering, however, the process is difficult to get right. Increasing or decreasing the pH (in a stable way) actually involves changing the KH. The most common approach is to add a buffer (in the previous section) whose equilibrium holds the pH at the desired value.
Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid can be used to reduce pH. Note that the exact quantity needed depends on the water's buffering capacity. In effect, you add enough acid to use up all the buffering capacity. Once this has been done, decreasing the pH is easy. However, it should be noted that the resultant lower-pH water has much less KH buffering than it did before, making it more susceptible to pH swings when (for instance) nitrate levels rise. Warning: It goes without saying that acids are VERY dangerous! Do not use this approach unless you know what you are doing, and you should treat the water BEFORE adding it to the aquarium.
Products such as ``pH-Down'' are often based on a phosphoric acid buffer. Phosphoric acid tends to keep the pH at roughly 6.5, depending on how much you use. Unfortunately, use of phosphoric acid has the BIG side effect of raising the phosphate level in your tank, stimulating algae growth. It is difficult to control algae growth in a tank with elevated phosphate levels. The only advantage over hydrochloric acid is that pH will be somewhat better buffered at its lower value.
One safe way to lower pH WITHOUT adjusting KH is to bubble CO2 (carbon dioxide) through the tank. The CO2 dissolves in water, and some of it forms carbonic acid. The formation of acid lowers the pH. Of course, in order for this approach to be practical, a steady source of CO2 bubbles (e.g. a CO2 tank) is needed to hold the pH in place. As soon as the CO2 is gone, the pH bounces back to its previous value. The high cost of a CO2 injection system precludes its use as a pH lowering technique in most aquariums (though see the PLANT FAQ for inexpensive do-it-yourself alternatives). CO2 injection systems are highly popular in heavily-planted tanks, because the additional CO2 stimulates plant growth.
Softening Your Water (i.e., lowering GH)
Some fish (e.g., discus, cardinal tetras, etc.) prefer soft water. Although they can survive in harder water, they are unlikely to breed in it. Thus, you may feel compelled to soften your water despite the hassle involved in doing so.
Typical home water softeners soften water using a technique known as ``ion exchange''. That is, they remove calcium and magnesium ions by replacing them with sodium ions. Although this does technically make water softer, most fish won't notice the difference. That is, fish that prefer soft water don't like sodium either, and for them such water softeners don't help at all. Thus, home water softeners are not an appropriate way to soften water for aquarium use.
Fish stores also market ``water softening pillows''. They use the same ion-exchange principle. One ``recharges'' the pillow by soaking it in a salt water solution, then places it in the tank where the sodium ions are released into the water and replaced by calcium and magnesium ions. After a few hours or days, the pillow (along with the calcium and magnesium) are removed, and the pillow recharged. The pillows sold in stores are too small to work well in practice, and shouldn't be used for the same reason cited above.
Peat moss softens water and reduces its hardness (GH). The most effective way to soften water via peat is to aerate water for 1-2 weeks in a bucket containing peat moss. For example, get a (plastic) bucket of the appropriate size. Then, get a large quantity of peat (a gallon or more), boil it (so that it sinks), stuff it in a pillow case, and place it in the water bucket. Use an air pump to aerate it. In 1-2 weeks, the water will be softer and more acidic. Use this aged water when making partial water changes on your tank.
Peat can be bought at pet shops, but it is expensive. It is much more cost-effective to buy it in bulk at a local gardening shop. Read labels carefully! You don't want to use peat containing fertilizers or other additives.
Although some folks place peat in the filters of their tanks, the technique has a number of drawbacks. First, peat clogs easily, so adding peat isn't always effective. Second, peat can be messy and may cloud the water in your tank. Third, the exact quantity of peat needed to effectively soften your water is difficult to estimate. Using the wrong amount results in the wrong water chemistry. Finally, when doing water changes, your tank's chemistry changes when new water is added (it has the wrong properties). Over the next few days, the chemistry changes as the peat takes effect. Using aged water helps ensure that the chemistry of your tank doesn't fluctuate while doing water changes.
Hard water can also be softened by diluting it with distilled water or R/O water. R/O (reverse-osmosis) water is purified water made by a R/O unit. Unfortunately, R/O units are too expensive ($100-$500) for most hobbyists. R/O water can also be purchased at some fish stores, but for most folks the expense and hassle are not worth it. The same applies to distilled water purchased at grocery stores.
What You Need to Know About Water Chemistry, and Why
Water in nature is rarely pure in the ``distilled water'' sense; it contains dissolved salts, buffers, nutrients, etc., with exact concentrations dependent on local conditions. Fish (and plants) have evolved over millions of years to the specific water conditions in their native habitats and may be unable to survive in significantly different environments.
Beginners (especially the lazy) should take the easy approach of selecting fish whose needs match the qualities of their normal tap water. Alternatively, an advanced (and energetic!) aquarist can change the water characteristics to match the fish's needs, though doing so is almost always more difficult than first appears. In either case, you need to know enough about water chemistry to ensure that the water in your tank has the right properties for the fish you are keeping.
Water has four measurable properties that are commonly used to characterize its chemistry. They are pH, buffering capacity, general hardness and salinity. In addition, there are several nutrients and trace elements.
pH
pH refers to water being either an acid, base, or neither (neutral). A pH of 7 is said to be neutral, a pH below 7 is ``acidic'' and a pH above 7 is ``basic'' or ``alkaline''. Like the Richter scale used to measure earthquakes, the pH scale is logarithmic. A pH of 5.5 is 10 times more acidic than water at a pH of 6.5. Thus, changing the pH by a small amount (suddenly) is more of a chemical change (and more stressful to fish!) than might first appear.
To a fishkeeper, two aspects of pH are important. First, rapid changes in pH are stressful to fish and should be avoided. Changing the pH by more than .3 units per day is known to stress fish. Thus, you want the pH of your tank to remain constant and stable over the long haul. Second, fish have adapted to thrive in a (sometimes narrow) pH range. You want to be sure that your tank's pH matches the specific requirements of the fish you are keeping.
Most fish can adjust to a pH somewhat outside of their optimal range. If your water's pH is naturally within the range of 6.5 to 7.5, you will be able to keep most species of fish without any problems. If your pH lies within this range, there is probably no need to adjust it upward or downward.
Buffering Capacity (KH, Alkalinity)
Buffering capacity refers to water's ability to keep the pH stable as acids or bases are added. pH and buffering capacity are intertwined with one another; although one might think that adding equal volumes of an acid and neutral water would result in a pH halfway in between, this rarely happens in practice. If the water has sufficient buffering capacity, the buffering capacity can absorb and neutralize the added acid without significantly changing the pH. Conceptually, a buffer acts somewhat like a large sponge. As more acid is added, the ``sponge'' absorbs the acid without changing the pH much. The ``sponge's'' capacity is limited however; once the buffering capacity is used up, the pH changes more rapidly as acids are added.
Buffering has both positive and negative consequences. On the plus side, the nitrogen cycle produces nitric acid (nitrate). Without buffering, your tank's pH would drop over time (a bad thing). With sufficient buffering, the pH stays stable (a good thing). On the negative side, hard tap water often almost always has a large buffering capacity. If the pH of the water is too high for your fish, the buffering capacity makes it difficult to lower the pH to a more appropriate value. Naive attempts to change the pH of water usually fail because buffering effects are ignored.
In freshwater aquariums, most of water's buffering capacity is due to carbonates and bicarbonates. Thus, the terms ``carbonate hardness'' (KH), ``alkalinity'' and ``buffering capacity'' are used interchangeably. Although technically not the same things, they are equivalent in practice in the context of fishkeeping. Note: the term ``alkalinity'' should not be confused with the term ``alkaline''. Alkalinity refers to buffering, while alkaline refers to a solution that is a base (i.e., pH > 7).
How much buffering does your tank need? Most aquarium buffering capacity test kits actually measure KH. The larger the KH, the more resistant to pH changes your water will be. A tank's KH should be high enough to prevent large pH swings in your tank over time. If your KH is below roughly 4.5 dH, you should pay special attention to your tank's pH (e.g, test weekly, until you get a feel for how stable the pH is). This is ESPECIALLY important if you neglect to do frequent partial water changes. In particular, the nitrogen cycle creates a tendency for an established tank's pH to decrease over time. The exact amount of pH change depends on the quantity and rate of nitrates produced, as well as the KH. If your pH drops more than roughly two tenths of a point over a month, you should consider increasing the KH or performing partial water changes more frequently. KH doesn't affect fish directly, so there is no need to match fish species to a particular KH.
Note: it is not a good idea to use distilled water in your tank. By definition, distilled water has essentially no KH. That means that adding even a little bit of acid will change the pH significantly (stressing fish). Because of its instability, distilled (or any essentially pure water) is never used directly. Tap water or other salts must first be added to it in order to increase its GH and KH.
General Hardness (GH)
General hardness (GH) refers to the dissolved concentration of magnesium and calcium ions. When fish are said to prefer ``soft'' or ``hard'' water, it is GH (not KH) that is being referred to.
Note: GH, KH and pH form the Bermuda's Triangle of water chemistry. Although the three properties are distinct, they all interact with each other to varying degrees, making it difficult to adjust one without impacting the other. That is one reason why beginning aquarists are advised NOT to tamper with these parameters unless absolutely necessary. As an example, ``hard'' water frequently often comes from limestone aquifers. Limestone contains calcium carbonate, which when dissolved in water increases both the GH (from calcium) and KH (from carbonate) components. Increasing the KH component also usually increases pH as well. Conceptually, the KH acts as a ``sponge'' absorbing the acid present in the water, raising the water's pH.
Water hardness follows the following guidelines. The unit dH means ``degree hardness'', while ppm means ``parts per million'', which is roughly equivalent to mg/L in water. 1 unit dH equals 17.8 ppm CaCO3. Most test kits give the hardness in units of CaCO3; this means the hardness is equivalent to that much CaCO3 in water but does not mean it actually came from CaCO3.
General Hardness
0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, 320 - 530 ppm : hard
higher : liquid rock (Lake Malawi and Los Angeles, CA)
Salinity
Salinity refers to the total amount of dissolved substances. Salinity measurements count both GH and KH components as well as such other substances as sodium. Knowing water's salinity becomes important in salt water aquariums. In freshwater tanks, knowing pH, GH and KH suffices.
Salinity is usually expressed in terms of its specific gravity, the ratio of a solution's weight to weight of an equal volume of distilled water. Because water expands when heated (changing its density), a common reference temperature of 59F degrees is used. Salinity is measured with a hydrometer, which is calibrated for use at a specific temperature (e.g., 75F degrees is common).
One component of salinity that neither GH or KH includes is sodium. Some freshwater fish tolerate (or even prefer) a small amount of salt (it stimulates slime coat growth). Moreover, parasites (e.g., ick) do not tolerate salt at all. Thus, salt in concentrations of (up to) 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons can actually help prevent and cure ick and other parasitic infections.
On the other hand, some species of fish do not tolerate ANY salt well. Scaleless fish (in general) and some Corydoras catfish are far more sensitive to salt than most freshwater fish. Add salt only if you are certain that all of your tank's inhabitants prefer it or can at least tolerate it.
Nutrients and Trace Elements
In addition to GH, KH, pH and salinity, there are a few other substances you may want to know about. Most tap water contains an assortment of nutrients and trace elements in very low concentrations. The presence (or absence) of trace elements can be important in some situations, specifically:
nitrates, which are discussed in great length in this FAQ in conjunction with the NITROGEN CYCLE;
phosphates, the second most prominent nutrient. Phosphates have been linked to algae growth. If you have persistent algae problems, high phosphates may be a contributing factor. In a plant tank, ideal phosphate levels are .2 mg/L or lower. To control algae, frequent partial water changes are often recommended to reduce nutrient levels. If your tap water contains excess phosphate, water changes may be aggravating the situation. Your local water company can tell you what the exact phosphate levels are.
iron, manganese and other trace elements. Plants need iron in trace quantities to grow. Tap water in many areas contains no iron at all. Consult the PLANT FAQ for more details.
Altering Your Water's Chemistry
Hardening Your Water (Raising GH and/or KH)
The following measurements are approximate; use a test kit to verify you've achieved the intended results. Note that if your water is extremely soft to begin with (1 degree KH or less), you may get a drastic change in pH as the buffer is added.
To raise both GH and KH simultaneously, add calcium carbonate (CaCO3). 1/2 teaspoon per 100 liters of water will increase both the KH and GH by about 1-2 dH. Alternatively, add some sea shells, coral, limestone, marble chips, etc. to your filter.
To raise the KH without raising the GH, add sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3), commonly known as baking soda. 1/2 teaspoon per 100 Liters raises the KH by about 1 dH. Sodium bicarbonate drives the pH towards an equilibrium value of 8.2.
Raising and Lowering pH
One can raise or lower pH by adding chemicals. Because of buffering, however, the process is difficult to get right. Increasing or decreasing the pH (in a stable way) actually involves changing the KH. The most common approach is to add a buffer (in the previous section) whose equilibrium holds the pH at the desired value.
Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid can be used to reduce pH. Note that the exact quantity needed depends on the water's buffering capacity. In effect, you add enough acid to use up all the buffering capacity. Once this has been done, decreasing the pH is easy. However, it should be noted that the resultant lower-pH water has much less KH buffering than it did before, making it more susceptible to pH swings when (for instance) nitrate levels rise. Warning: It goes without saying that acids are VERY dangerous! Do not use this approach unless you know what you are doing, and you should treat the water BEFORE adding it to the aquarium.
Products such as ``pH-Down'' are often based on a phosphoric acid buffer. Phosphoric acid tends to keep the pH at roughly 6.5, depending on how much you use. Unfortunately, use of phosphoric acid has the BIG side effect of raising the phosphate level in your tank, stimulating algae growth. It is difficult to control algae growth in a tank with elevated phosphate levels. The only advantage over hydrochloric acid is that pH will be somewhat better buffered at its lower value.
One safe way to lower pH WITHOUT adjusting KH is to bubble CO2 (carbon dioxide) through the tank. The CO2 dissolves in water, and some of it forms carbonic acid. The formation of acid lowers the pH. Of course, in order for this approach to be practical, a steady source of CO2 bubbles (e.g. a CO2 tank) is needed to hold the pH in place. As soon as the CO2 is gone, the pH bounces back to its previous value. The high cost of a CO2 injection system precludes its use as a pH lowering technique in most aquariums (though see the PLANT FAQ for inexpensive do-it-yourself alternatives). CO2 injection systems are highly popular in heavily-planted tanks, because the additional CO2 stimulates plant growth.
Softening Your Water (i.e., lowering GH)
Some fish (e.g., discus, cardinal tetras, etc.) prefer soft water. Although they can survive in harder water, they are unlikely to breed in it. Thus, you may feel compelled to soften your water despite the hassle involved in doing so.
Typical home water softeners soften water using a technique known as ``ion exchange''. That is, they remove calcium and magnesium ions by replacing them with sodium ions. Although this does technically make water softer, most fish won't notice the difference. That is, fish that prefer soft water don't like sodium either, and for them such water softeners don't help at all. Thus, home water softeners are not an appropriate way to soften water for aquarium use.
Fish stores also market ``water softening pillows''. They use the same ion-exchange principle. One ``recharges'' the pillow by soaking it in a salt water solution, then places it in the tank where the sodium ions are released into the water and replaced by calcium and magnesium ions. After a few hours or days, the pillow (along with the calcium and magnesium) are removed, and the pillow recharged. The pillows sold in stores are too small to work well in practice, and shouldn't be used for the same reason cited above.
Peat moss softens water and reduces its hardness (GH). The most effective way to soften water via peat is to aerate water for 1-2 weeks in a bucket containing peat moss. For example, get a (plastic) bucket of the appropriate size. Then, get a large quantity of peat (a gallon or more), boil it (so that it sinks), stuff it in a pillow case, and place it in the water bucket. Use an air pump to aerate it. In 1-2 weeks, the water will be softer and more acidic. Use this aged water when making partial water changes on your tank.
Peat can be bought at pet shops, but it is expensive. It is much more cost-effective to buy it in bulk at a local gardening shop. Read labels carefully! You don't want to use peat containing fertilizers or other additives.
Although some folks place peat in the filters of their tanks, the technique has a number of drawbacks. First, peat clogs easily, so adding peat isn't always effective. Second, peat can be messy and may cloud the water in your tank. Third, the exact quantity of peat needed to effectively soften your water is difficult to estimate. Using the wrong amount results in the wrong water chemistry. Finally, when doing water changes, your tank's chemistry changes when new water is added (it has the wrong properties). Over the next few days, the chemistry changes as the peat takes effect. Using aged water helps ensure that the chemistry of your tank doesn't fluctuate while doing water changes.
Hard water can also be softened by diluting it with distilled water or R/O water. R/O (reverse-osmosis) water is purified water made by a R/O unit. Unfortunately, R/O units are too expensive ($100-$500) for most hobbyists. R/O water can also be purchased at some fish stores, but for most folks the expense and hassle are not worth it. The same applies to distilled water purchased at grocery stores.
MediMary
Well-Known Member
I dunno if anyone needs a water chiller, but I just came across the best deal I have ever seen on one.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/405878-best-deals-water-chillers-reviews.html
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/405878-best-deals-water-chillers-reviews.html
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
So got this back from canna when I asked about using Cannazym in the UC with Canna Aqua. So now I realy wonder if they know what their talking about. I have received a PM saying Ralphie does not know shit about anything??
Hello,
If I understand your question, while we recommend using Aqua in re-circulating systems, because of the massive amounts of air injected into your system, maybe Substra is a better option. The pH controls or buffer used in the Aqua line to stabilize pH will react with the CO2 in the air to drive pH up. Substra does not have this carbonate buffer and will react normally. It will still be important that you stay on top of the pH no matter which nutrients you use because both CO2 and Oxygen will react with the individual nutrients and force the pH around with any nutrient package.
Cannazym is a recommended product in all our feed charts and with all nutrients. Each feed chart will have the recommended products shown at the top and then give the correct amount to use.
Hope this helps,
Ralph B.
--------------------------------------------------------
CANNA Research North America
It is not possible to reply to this email directly, please use the contact form on the website if you have more questions.
Hello,
If I understand your question, while we recommend using Aqua in re-circulating systems, because of the massive amounts of air injected into your system, maybe Substra is a better option. The pH controls or buffer used in the Aqua line to stabilize pH will react with the CO2 in the air to drive pH up. Substra does not have this carbonate buffer and will react normally. It will still be important that you stay on top of the pH no matter which nutrients you use because both CO2 and Oxygen will react with the individual nutrients and force the pH around with any nutrient package.
Cannazym is a recommended product in all our feed charts and with all nutrients. Each feed chart will have the recommended products shown at the top and then give the correct amount to use.
Hope this helps,
Ralph B.
--------------------------------------------------------
CANNA Research North America
It is not possible to reply to this email directly, please use the contact form on the website if you have more questions.
MediMary
Well-Known Member
+rep~~ thats very interesting.
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
I sent the email on to Dan and the boys for comment at UC, will post the answer they send back.
MediMary
Well-Known Member
Dan copy pasted and sent the info along, Big thanks to woodmaneh for calling canna.
Canna in blue
Dan in Red
If I understand your question, while we recommend using Aqua in
re-circulating systems, because of the massive amounts of air injected into
your system, maybe Substra is a better option.
Highly Aerated Water Culture is still a relatively new hydroponics method, this being said, many in the hydro industry are far less familiar with the actual ins and outs of modern RDWC systems than you might think. First and foremost our UC, though very well aerated would not qualify as having "massive amounts of air injected" into it. This is by design, given excessive aeration can tend to cause minerals held in solution to precipitate out....causing the water chemistry to become unstable. It's been through years of experimentation that we were able to achieve a balance between beneficial aeration and nutrient stability.
I would classify "mass aeration" as what occurs at waste water treatment facilities to purge contaminants out of solution. In this case its the actual physical action of the "air" being forced through the solution that causes the precipitation of the impurities in the water. Once these impurities are separated from the H2O molecule they use sequestering agents to bound the waste into chelated clusters which fall to the bottom of the waste treatment ponds.
The UC has been intentionally sized with an aeration system that is far less than is necessary to cause this precipitation. It's only in the event that excessive amounts of minerals are added into the solution that some precipitates out and can cause drifting pH. This is one of the reasons running nutes at 1/2 - 2/3 strength is so much more effective in the UC than higher ppm's.
It seems to me that Canna, as well as most other nute manufacturers are not yet testing they're solutions in modern day water culture systems. As a result they lack the hands on experience necessary to advise growers how to best utilize they're nutes in these applications. This is why open discussions being had by water culture practitioners is so important, As this is where the sculpting of these new usage guidelines are taking place.....this is in essence the front lines for modern day water culture.
The pH controls or buffer used in the Aqua line to stabilize pH will react with the CO2 in the air to
drive pH up. Substra does not have this carbonate buffer and will react
normally.
Canna is a world class nutrient manufacturer so it's worth paying heed to the advice they give. Though, I seriously doubt a nutrient designed for drain to waste is the ticket for the UC. The Aqua Series has proven in countless applications to be the proper companion for the UC. Where I think growers may run into problems is when combing too many things into solution with a given base nute.
It's important to remember that chemists, plant physiologists and botanists have spent countless hours refining their formulations to suit optimal plant growth......if you're choosing a nutrient based on their reputation, trust they're recommendations and avoid making convoluted cocktails of nutes. Water culture is prone to perform very well when water chemistry is well balanced and poorly when it's not, avoid getting to Avant Garde.
Though these nutrient cocktails can work in well in soilless apps they don't often translate well into water culture.
It will still be important that you stay on top of the pH no
matter which nutrients you use because both CO2 and Oxygen will react with
the individual nutrients and force the pH around with any nutrient package.
This is a fact.....stay diligent when keeping a nutrient solution. Keep in mind that we recommend letting pH ride between 5.5 - 6.5 for best results. In many cases micro managing your pH can result in more problems than answers. Though if keeping it locked between 5.8-6 is best for you I'd recommend a pH doser....you can pic up fairly inexpensive ones through aquarium suppliers.
Cannazym is a recommended product in all our feed charts and with all
nutrients. Each feed chart will have the recommended products shown at the
top and then give the correct amount to use.
Use it at reduced dosages for best results in the UC.
Hope my input is helpful.
Canna in blue
Dan in Red
If I understand your question, while we recommend using Aqua in
re-circulating systems, because of the massive amounts of air injected into
your system, maybe Substra is a better option.
Highly Aerated Water Culture is still a relatively new hydroponics method, this being said, many in the hydro industry are far less familiar with the actual ins and outs of modern RDWC systems than you might think. First and foremost our UC, though very well aerated would not qualify as having "massive amounts of air injected" into it. This is by design, given excessive aeration can tend to cause minerals held in solution to precipitate out....causing the water chemistry to become unstable. It's been through years of experimentation that we were able to achieve a balance between beneficial aeration and nutrient stability.
I would classify "mass aeration" as what occurs at waste water treatment facilities to purge contaminants out of solution. In this case its the actual physical action of the "air" being forced through the solution that causes the precipitation of the impurities in the water. Once these impurities are separated from the H2O molecule they use sequestering agents to bound the waste into chelated clusters which fall to the bottom of the waste treatment ponds.
The UC has been intentionally sized with an aeration system that is far less than is necessary to cause this precipitation. It's only in the event that excessive amounts of minerals are added into the solution that some precipitates out and can cause drifting pH. This is one of the reasons running nutes at 1/2 - 2/3 strength is so much more effective in the UC than higher ppm's.
It seems to me that Canna, as well as most other nute manufacturers are not yet testing they're solutions in modern day water culture systems. As a result they lack the hands on experience necessary to advise growers how to best utilize they're nutes in these applications. This is why open discussions being had by water culture practitioners is so important, As this is where the sculpting of these new usage guidelines are taking place.....this is in essence the front lines for modern day water culture.
The pH controls or buffer used in the Aqua line to stabilize pH will react with the CO2 in the air to
drive pH up. Substra does not have this carbonate buffer and will react
normally.
Canna is a world class nutrient manufacturer so it's worth paying heed to the advice they give. Though, I seriously doubt a nutrient designed for drain to waste is the ticket for the UC. The Aqua Series has proven in countless applications to be the proper companion for the UC. Where I think growers may run into problems is when combing too many things into solution with a given base nute.
It's important to remember that chemists, plant physiologists and botanists have spent countless hours refining their formulations to suit optimal plant growth......if you're choosing a nutrient based on their reputation, trust they're recommendations and avoid making convoluted cocktails of nutes. Water culture is prone to perform very well when water chemistry is well balanced and poorly when it's not, avoid getting to Avant Garde.
Though these nutrient cocktails can work in well in soilless apps they don't often translate well into water culture.
It will still be important that you stay on top of the pH no
matter which nutrients you use because both CO2 and Oxygen will react with
the individual nutrients and force the pH around with any nutrient package.
This is a fact.....stay diligent when keeping a nutrient solution. Keep in mind that we recommend letting pH ride between 5.5 - 6.5 for best results. In many cases micro managing your pH can result in more problems than answers. Though if keeping it locked between 5.8-6 is best for you I'd recommend a pH doser....you can pic up fairly inexpensive ones through aquarium suppliers.
Cannazym is a recommended product in all our feed charts and with all
nutrients. Each feed chart will have the recommended products shown at the
top and then give the correct amount to use.
Use it at reduced dosages for best results in the UC.
Hope my input is helpful.