It's A Fuct World

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
i think we will have to agree to disagree on some points AL B there is nothing wrong with squeezing rockwool gently to relese some of the water

the 40mm (1.5 inch") blocks you speak of, dont seem to be availble here, is it possibe you have made a mistake on the size of these blocks ?

the plastic coverd grow blocks your are rooting cuttings in, look like 3inch 7.5cm 75mm transplanting cubes to me as i said i root cuttings in 1inch seed cubes, your blocks are many times bigger than that, from the picture the look like 3inch transplanting blocks turned upside down as the correct side has a hole in them for the seed cube to be placed

i agree its not nessecery to make the final cut under water, i try to do it with most but do forget sometimes, if you read the back of the clonex bottle it still advises to do that, even says to put them in hot water too, i guess i still do it just incase but you are right on that point as i have found myself when i havent botherd to do it, the cuttings are fine

i guess its also possible they have differnt sizes of cubes where you are
i can remember long ago buying the rockwool slabs and cutting my own blocks rockwool isnt the nicest stuff to handle its ok when wet, so i didnt keep that up for long

roots showing in 6 days is great, you must have some eary rooting strains, ive noticed aeroponic cloners and bubbleponic cloners are giving roots around the 7-8 day mark, so you must be doing something right,

i dont need cuttings so fast, as i like to harvest around 8-9 weeks it takes 4 weeks of growth of the rooted cuttings to be large/mature enough to give new cuttings so 2 weeks is a good time for me or my mother plants end up needing a fair bit of pruning to keep small enough for when i need cuttings for the next harvest
if you can see roots through those huge blocks in 6 days, you perhaps could see roots through the much smaller 1inch seed cubes in maybe 4 days if you could find a way of keeping them from unexpectedly drying out :)
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
i think we will have to agree to disagree on some points AL B there is nothing wrong with squeezing rockwool gently to relese some of the water
That's like agreeing to disagree on whether or not gravity works. Squeezing RW cubes collapses the airspaces in the RW. It's a bad practise that will contribute to poor rooting performance. You're absolutely entitled to do it wrong if you want, but it's still wrong.

the 40mm (1.5 inch") blocks you speak of, dont seem to be availble here, is it possibe you have made a mistake on the size of these blocks ?
No, it's not possible. They're 40mm, mfr is Grodan.

40mm.jpg

the plastic coverd grow blocks your are rooting cuttings in, look like 3inch 7.5cm 75mm transplanting cubes to me as i said i root cuttings in 1inch seed cubes, your blocks are many times bigger than that, from the picture the look like 3inch transplanting blocks turned upside down as the correct side has a hole in them for the seed cube to be placed
Wrong again. They are not 75mm. My cubes are 40mm.

40mm.jpg

i agree its not nessecery to make the final cut under water, i try to do it with most but do forget sometimes, if you read the back of the clonex bottle it still advises to do that, even says to put them in hot water too, i guess i still do it just incase but you are right on that point as i have found myself when i havent botherd to do it, the cuttings are fine
I don't have a bottle of Clonex to refer to, but it'd be bad advice if it is so given. Cutting underwater is a poor practise- unnecessary and can cause problems. You can do it if you like but it's something no-one else should emulate.

HOT WATER? What rubbish. This would have the effect of cooking the tissue and collapsing the capillaries in the stem. Patently bad advice. This would be a really good way to cause poor rooting performance, notably as a way to kill stem tip tissue and cause tip rot and overall wilt.

i guess its also possible they have differnt sizes of cubes where you are
40mm.jpg

Well, I am SO glad you think it's possible. xD

roots showing in 6 days is great, you must have some eary rooting strains, ive noticed aeroponic cloners and bubbleponic cloners are giving roots around the 7-8 day mark, so you must be doing something right,
I am so pleased you think I must be doing something right. Because that's important to me. No, really. It is. :roll:

i dont need cuttings so fast, as i like to harvest around 8-9 weeks
I harvest at 8 wks. I have 4 trays in the flowering area, plants stay in each tray for 2 wks. I harvest every 2 wks. Naturally, that means I have a tray cleared and ready to fill every 2 wks. This means that I need to have a batch of cuttings ready to go in every 2 wks.

it takes 4 weeks of growth of the rooted cuttings to be large/mature enough to give new cuttings so 2 weeks is a good time for me or my mother plants end up needing a fair bit of pruning to keep small enough for when i need cuttings for the next harvest
Wait... you're taking cuttings off of the clones you just rooted? *boggle*

Yes, mother plants SHOULD be cut back hard with every batch of clones. See the link to my thread about cloning in my signature. Mums will recover to the point of being ready to deliver more clones in 12-14 days, with lots of excess material

if you can see roots through those huge blocks in 6 days, you perhaps could see roots through the much smaller 1inch seed cubes in maybe 4 days if you could find a way of keeping them from unexpectedly drying out :)
What huge blocks? Mine are 40mm.

40mm.jpg

25mm seedling cubes are for seedlings, not cloning.

I think you may be well on your way to being a w33d b4R0n.
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
AL B you have some very ridgid fixed ideas and opinions there .. what becomes harmful is when one mistakes his own opinion as fact ..

your tone seems to have become hostile, thats quite sad. you seem to want to nit pick over a rather silly point ..
why is this,?

perhaps you could show me a plant that was damaged because someone squeezed a rockwool cube ?

all the 10s of thousands of cuttings sitting in 1inch rockwool cubes around the world , well i guess they just dont exsist , becuase you say so ?

i like the picture of your transplanting cube, hense its name, its for transplanting seeds or cuttings into that is why it has the plastic round it as its a block that can sit stright on a system but what would i know, i have only been buying them and using them for about 15 years

dam little fella get over yourself . if only my colas were as big as your ego :)

and all those plants i have grown, well i guess they never grew right, because YOU SAY SO

Wait... you're taking cuttings off of the clones you just rooted? *boggle* <<< look at this comment of yours absolutley stupid statement

perhaps you should learn to read my comments correctly, but instead you rush in with your "ego" lol

read again, i said i only need 4 weeks of growth for my clones once they have rooted before they are large enough to give clones themselves .. now thats not rocket science to understand .. but when one is blinded buy his own ego he cant see what is directly infront of him i guess

oh look you have a little link let me click it! w33d b4r0n AL B im trying not to laugh now
i have been trying to get away from the irc n yahoo kiddies who insist on replacing letters with numbers because someone told them it was 1337 10 years ago .. that kind of ebonics doesnt impress me anymore
AL B i think you may well be on the way to becoming an asshat, ahh dam its too late lol :)
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
do you still think squeezing rockwool damages plants, ?
do you still think 1 inch cubes are not for cuttings. ?
sorry to correct you AL B . in time your ego will learn to live with it lol :)

oh sorry ill type it so you can understand it, j00 455#47 lol
 

infinitescrog

Active Member
Hey Al, awesome to have a pro to bounce stuff off of, thanks man! I was wondering the negative effects of a low Relative humidity, other than the plant consuming more water. I am running a 2L Hempy SoG system filling the reservoir once a day in flower. From where the hempy hole is located, I'd estimate the reservoir at ~500mL for each plant. They seem to be doing great at 3 weeks into flower but I am wondering if a low RH would have negative impacts, because I am exchanging air rapidly with ~350CFM in a ~60 cubic foot flower chamber. It is attached to a 600w HPS in a cooltube.

The only problem I have so far is that one clone (different strain than the rest) has one fan near the top that is all wilted down but it is still green and uncracked. Feels rather dry to the touch. Just want to try to head off any problems before they start. I am getting a hygrometer in a couple days, I've had several successful harvests without one, but want to improve.

Thanks for any insight!
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
do you still think squeezing rockwool damages plants, ?
do you still think 1 inch cubes are not for cuttings. ?
sorry to correct you AL B . in time your ego will learn to live with it lol :)

oh sorry ill type it so you can understand it, j00 455#47 lol
dam man chill AL b the man and his methods are sound no reason to continue this just move on!!
 

zem

Well-Known Member
Top feeding systems are generally known as drip systems. These use dripper aperture heads that have a tendency to clog with nute salts.

Vertical gardens are ambitious. And complex.

Lemme tell ya something about growing dope: it's a hell of a lot of fun for a few years... then it becomes work. There will come a day when you just don't want to work so hard. Simple systems, without a lot of plumbing and hoohah to maintain and clean, will serve you better in the long run.
yeah it's been more than a few years of growing for me, like 7-8... i don't mind work to setup, but i do mind maintenance work, that's why i want to run a single pump in vertial poles. the drippers are no problem, aero sprayers are more of a trouble. vertical can be done with low maintenance, but it is harder to setup initially. i plan on having 4 plastic pipes standing like poles with plants growing out of them and a light hanging in the middle drippers on top of pipes. maintenance would be the same as maintaining a regular system, just empty the pipes, clean refill and grow on. i have always asked myself why the hell would someone top feed when flood/drain is simpler to setup and airs better the roots, until this plan came up. if i wanted to flood/drain a vertical system i will have to add several pumps each for a level of plants, which i don't want to do. i'm leaning more to think that the difference in plant growth rate between top feeding and flood/drain is negligible... just unsure yet.....
 

doniawon

Well-Known Member
Al your "ego" is deserved and well respected. I've learned more from you than anyone in many years. thanks again. If your only questionable method is to squeeze or not to squeeze, in all the wealth of info you supply us big fuggin deal... You spend all that time reading and replying with great answers im sure your just tired of the bull shiz. Agree to disagree and remain humble, no need to bash on a legend. Were not rippin through there sticky.
 

zem

Well-Known Member
hey skunk i'm not Al's advocate here, but i gota say, YES, squeezing rockwool damages root growth because you're basically squeezing the air out of the cube making it less airy. it's NOT a matter of opinion, and in fact i can see why Al can sound a bit defensive when he hears someone insist on this bullshit
 

TruenoAE86coupe

Moderator
But Al, look at skunkd0c's avatar, what would u do to have an amazing looking plant like that in your garden. LoL.
Anyhow, skunk you really have no room to talk here like this, this thread is from a very knowledgeable experienced gardener sharing his "secrets" with us, really no reason to talk shit here, take what you want from it, rep him and thank him for the help and discard anything you do no believe in, not keep asking him "do you still think squeezing rockwool damages plants, ?
do you still think 1 inch cubes are not for cuttings. ?" He did not say that squeezing the rockwool damages the plant, he said it damages the ROCKWOOL, and if he did squeeze it he wouldn't have rooted clones in 6 days. He said he does not use the 1 inch (25 mm) for cuttings, because his cuttings are so big he will break a 25mm cube.
If you really want to compare your grow to Al's you really need to have pictures and proof that you can even compare to being on the same level as him. And at that point you will only at best be compared to Al, there is no one more respected/trusted on this site period.
Al was decent enough to come back after a long absence just to answer our questions, so please do not fuck this up for us, as we would like to tap this resource as long as possible, as he has good theory with reasons to back everything up.
His ego as mentioned once before is well deserved, and he is allowed to flaunt it when he wants/needs to.
Finally you say that he is a child, but if you really read this thread, then your stupid .02 most of us would have been pretty pissed off at you, in fact me and my wife sat here and laughed through not only your stupid post, but Al's response.
Al has posted more in this one thread then you have at all, so based simply on that, i am going to continue to take all from this i can, and make it a point to ignore ALL skunkd0c posts.

 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
hey skunk i'm not Al's advocate here, but i gota say, YES, squeezing rockwool damages root growth because you're basically squeezing the air out of the cube making it less airy. it's NOT a matter of opinion, and in fact i can see why Al can sound a bit defensive when he hears someone insist on this bullshit
Zem, setting up a vertical system is certainly more complex than a simple E&F setup, but it's not THAT much harder (but with any new endeavor, some planning is a REALLY good idea) - as you've said correctly, yes, there's lots more initial setup, but I only check on my plants two or three times a week, so that means automating everything I can.

Had some downtime so actually converted my octagon from LP aero/NFT to full on HP aero (100-125PSI) for shits and giggles.

Al, good to see you back and I hope everything is okay with the situation you had to deal with a couple of weeks ago.


2.23.11 031.jpg2.23.11 028.jpg1.29.11 004.jpg1.29.11 014.jpg1.29.11 003.jpg1.29.11 001.jpg
 

zem

Well-Known Member
Zem, setting up a vertical system is certainly more complex than a simple E&F setup, but it's not THAT much harder (but with any new endeavor, some planning is a REALLY good idea) - as you've said correctly, yes, there's lots more initial setup, but I only check on my plants two or three times a week, so that means automating everything I can.

Had some downtime so actually converted my octagon from LP aero/NFT to full on HP aero (100-125PSI) for shits and giggles.

Al, good to see you back and I hope everything is okay with the situation you had to deal with a couple of weeks ago.


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thanks for this helpful post! i'm not going to do aero for sure, i like low energy consumption and maintenance, dont even want to do several pumps, that's why i was considering pipes standing like poles with top feeding... did you ever try this?
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
Posts #182 and #186 in this thread have some good info for you.

BTW, HP aero uses less energy than any other form of growing except handwatering........my 100 watt pump runs for 30 seconds every twelve hours.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hey Al, awesome to have a pro to bounce stuff off of, thanks man! I was wondering the negative effects of a low Relative humidity, other than the plant consuming more water.
Low RH will indeed cause higher transpiration- not a real problem. However, if you're unfortunate enough to get some spider mites, low RH will increase their reproduction rate significantly.

I am running a 2L Hempy SoG system filling the reservoir once a day in flower. From where the hempy hole is located, I'd estimate the reservoir at ~500mL for each plant. They seem to be doing great at 3 weeks into flower but I am wondering if a low RH would have negative impacts, because I am exchanging air rapidly with ~350CFM in a ~60 cubic foot flower chamber. It is attached to a 600w HPS in a cooltube.
Should be OK in general, but I do have problems with the Hempy concept. Allows roots to sit in stagnant water, which can (and almost surely will) cause problems.

The only problem I have so far is that one clone (different strain than the rest) has one fan near the top that is all wilted down but it is still green and uncracked. Feels rather dry to the touch. Just want to try to head off any problems before they start. I am getting a hygrometer in a couple days, I've had several successful harvests without one, but want to improve.
If you can't measure it, you can't manage it. Getting as much diagnostic equipment in your op as possible is always worth doing.

dam man chill AL b the man and his methods are sound no reason to continue this just move on!!
That troll is now on my ignore list, I really don't care what it says- because I don't see it.

...but dipping stems in hot water is DEFINITELY going to be some future Stoney McDoper material.

yeah it's been more than a few years of growing for me, like 7-8... i don't mind work to setup, but i do mind maintenance work, that's why i want to run a single pump in vertial poles. the drippers are no problem, aero sprayers are more of a trouble. vertical can be done with low maintenance, but it is harder to setup initially. i plan on having 4 plastic pipes standing like poles with plants growing out of them and a light hanging in the middle drippers on top of pipes. maintenance would be the same as maintaining a regular system, just empty the pipes, clean refill and grow on. i have always asked myself why the hell would someone top feed when flood/drain is simpler to setup and airs better the roots, until this plan came up. if i wanted to flood/drain a vertical system i will have to add several pumps each for a level of plants, which i don't want to do. i'm leaning more to think that the difference in plant growth rate between top feeding and flood/drain is negligible... just unsure yet.....
I don't think the growth rate will be much different, but I have my worries about maintaining the system. If you have the floorspace to run a simple flood tray system, I'd do it that way.

Al your "ego" is deserved and well respected. I've learned more from you than anyone in many years. thanks again. If your only questionable method is to squeeze or not to squeeze, in all the wealth of info you supply us big fuggin deal... You spend all that time reading and replying with great answers im sure your just tired of the bull shiz. Agree to disagree and remain humble, no need to bash on a legend. Were not rippin through there sticky.
When someone loses an argument with me, it's typical for them to attack me instead of the facts. Going ad hominem is simple proof that the crank can't win the dispute with knowledge. Trolls can use whatever incorrect practises they like; just as long as everyone else knows not to replicate the error, which appears to be the case here.

Squeezing rockwool cubes is bad practise every single time. It removes airspaces from the material and will contribute to poor/slow rooting performance, if not outright failure.

hey skunk i'm not Al's advocate here, but i gota say, YES, squeezing rockwool damages root growth because you're basically squeezing the air out of the cube making it less airy. it's NOT a matter of opinion, and in fact i can see why Al can sound a bit defensive when he hears someone insist on this bullshit
I don't mind helping out inexperienced growers after they've made a mistake. However, someone who claims to have experience growing should know better. It's always obvious to me when someone who claims to have 15 years experience growing has more like 15 minutes. If someone wants to use poor practises and call my advice on doing it the right way some sort of ego trip, you must realise that it's no skin off my nose. The person paying for using incorrect practises is the person getting the shithouse results, not me.

But Al, look at skunkd0c's avatar, what would u do to have an amazing looking plant like that in your garden. LoL.
Anyhow, skunk you really have no room to talk here like this, this thread is from a very knowledgeable experienced gardener sharing his "secrets" with us, really no reason to talk shit here, take what you want from it, rep him and thank him for the help and discard anything you do no believe in, not keep asking him "do you still think squeezing rockwool damages plants, ?
do you still think 1 inch cubes are not for cuttings. ?" He did not say that squeezing the rockwool damages the plant, he said it damages the ROCKWOOL, and if he did squeeze it he wouldn't have rooted clones in 6 days. He said he does not use the 1 inch (25 mm) for cuttings, because his cuttings are so big he will break a 25mm cube.
If you really want to compare your grow to Al's you really need to have pictures and proof that you can even compare to being on the same level as him. And at that point you will only at best be compared to Al, there is no one more respected/trusted on this site period.
Al was decent enough to come back after a long absence just to answer our questions, so please do not fuck this up for us, as we would like to tap this resource as long as possible, as he has good theory with reasons to back everything up.
His ego as mentioned once before is well deserved, and he is allowed to flaunt it when he wants/needs to.
Finally you say that he is a child, but if you really read this thread, then your stupid .02 most of us would have been pretty pissed off at you, in fact me and my wife sat here and laughed through not only your stupid post, but Al's response.
Al has posted more in this one thread then you have at all, so based simply on that, i am going to continue to take all from this i can, and make it a point to ignore ALL skunkd0c posts.

Yeah. All that.

Zem, setting up a vertical system is certainly more complex than a simple E&F setup, but it's not THAT much harder (but with any new endeavor, some planning is a REALLY good idea) - as you've said correctly, yes, there's lots more initial setup, but I only check on my plants two or three times a week, so that means automating everything I can.

Had some downtime so actually converted my octagon from LP aero/NFT to full on HP aero (100-125PSI) for shits and giggles.

Al, good to see you back and I hope everything is okay with the situation you had to deal with a couple of weeks ago.


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I don't have any fundamental opposition to novel growing methods like this. They'll certainly work. I rather like the vertical scheme as regards the absence of a reflector, since you lose light intensity by bouncing light off of one. However, I DO have a fundamental opposition to working hard and spending money. Constructing a system like this with a forest of PVC pipe takes time, money & effort and maintaining it would be a pain. There's no way to completely clean a system like this short of fully disassembling it. In the past, I've commented to Bob that he deserves a metric fucktonne of weed out of this system for all the work he has in it.
 

pdillo

Well-Known Member
Howdy Al, thanks for all the great threads and info you've provided over the years, your post have totally changed the way I grow (for the better).

With you're electrical knowledge, I was curious if you had any insight on (or even heard of) this issue about the incompatibility of digital ballast and standard HPS bulbs? The study basically states normal HPS bulbs are designed to work with a basic magnetic 60hz ballast, an electronic ballast opperates at 20 hz or higher (from wikipedia: Electronic ballasts usually change the frequency of the power from the standard mains (e.g., 60 Hz in U.S.) frequency to 20,000 Hz or higher), and the study goes on that this incompatibility creates "acoustic resonance" that will shorten the life and ouput of the bulb. So now there are all these new products designed to provide solutions for these claims, bulbs designed specifically for electronic ballast and also electronic ballast that are suppose to operate at the lower 60hz frequency&#8230; ¿Thoughts? More reason to go magnetic? Total BS to sell even more new new-fangled devices?
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Howdy Al, thanks for all the great threads and info you've provided over the years, your post have totally changed the way I grow over the past several years (for the better).

With you're electrical knowledge, I was curious if you had any insight on (or even heard of) this issue about the incompatibility of digital ballast and standard HPS bulbs? The study basically states normal HPS bulbs are designed to work with a basic magnetic 60hz ballast, an electronic ballast opperates at 20 hz or higher (from wikipedia: Electronic ballasts usually change the frequency of the power from the standard mains (e.g., 60 Hz in U.S.) frequency to 20,000 Hz or higher), and the study goes on that this incompatibility creates "acoustic resonance" that will shorten the life and ouput of the bulb. So now there are all these new products to support these clames, bulbs designed specifically for electronic ballast and also electronic ballast that are suppose to operate at the lower standard frequency&#8230; ¿Thoughts? More reason to go magnetic? Total BS to sell even more new new-fangled devices?
Eye/Hortilux is a reputable maker of good quality HID lamps. If their testing indicates that acoustic resonance is a problem for HPS tubes, I'm inclined to take their word for it.

One thing I can tell you as a result of my ~35 years as an electronics techie is that I have never seen a semiconductor junction that is as reliable as a coil of copper wire on an iron core. Inductive aka magnetic ballasts don't use significantly more power than electronic ballasts and electronic ballasts do not cause HPS lighting to generate any more luminous intensity than lamps run on magnetic ballasts. When you consider that the useful lifespan of magnetic ballasts is measured in decades and the purchase cost of magnetics is about 1/3 that for electronic ballasts, there's just no cause to buy electronic types.

Buy a good quality magnetic ballast and it will probably be the only ballast you ever buy.
 

medicine21

Active Member
Hey Al, I do rockwool cubes in a 8x4' flood and drain with a 300L rez, so these questions will draw on your past experience with rockwool before you switched to fytocell (which is not available in my area):

1. Does algae that grows on top of rockwool cubes eat nutes and raise the pH in the cube?
2. Are cube covers a good idea or is it better to just deal with the algae? - I am seeing some mold develop under the covers as they are not getting the air circulation. also have some mold on bottom of RW cubes later in flowering
3. When to water RW? - 50% saturated weight, 25%,...?
4. Can you keep RW 75% saturated at all times if your rez is well oxygenated AND you use H2O2?
5. I have some difficulty managing the ideal EC in the cube, I am guessing due to cube sometimes running dry and perhaps too much nutes in rez. I run EC 1.6 in the rez, but pull EC 3.2+ later in flowering out of the cube with a syringe. Plants don't seem to mind too much, but the salt build up concerns me, should it?
 

pdillo

Well-Known Member
Eye/Hortilux is a reputable maker of good quality HID lamps. If their testing indicates that acoustic resonance is a problem for HPS tubes, I'm inclined to take their word for it.
Sure you're probably right. There is also some credibility in the fact they would stand to lose sales from that info rather than gain.

Sooo&#8230; any RIU members interested in swapping your old rusty 600w coil ballast for a super sweet shiny purple DIMMABLE (!!) Lumatek, PM me! ;-)
 
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