RawBudzski
Well-Known Member
You are not my Father.
Well, if you were to build to the same specs then you could do cfl or hps. 150w is probably best.. if you made a DIY cool tube you could get the parts to make your light for $25 on ebay. The tent I built for RIU has a small foot print and very compact. PappaBear1104 on youtube and you can see what I had in there.Im sorry im new to this stuff. but could you point me in the right directions of as to how to u would properly light this tent. how much lighting would be necessary. i ws looking as some 250watt HPS lights?
My son, why do you denie me. You tell your friends the same thing. Your mother cry's daily from the mental abuse you put us through. Your always hopped up on grass and goofballs and WE are tired of it.You are not my Father.
hey im planning on building a 3x4x4 box and was wondering how much light would be appropriate. I was thinking about 150w hps but im gonna have 3 fans workin to cool it so i may want more lights. Any Suggestions
CMK
Just build the tent your wasting your time and money on a box build.ive grown before with cfls and i thought hps would be more difficult to keep cool. the fans are 31 cfm and the ambient temp will prob be high 70s. its also going to be white paint interior. As well as a soil grow. Any other suggestions that could help?
this is a quality item, and great idea, make a little home made wooden trolley for it, so that you can move it around, you can even peel the top back and stick it outside on glorious hot summer days, or if your mums coming over for coffee and wants to have a nose around you can wheel it to somewhere safe. just unplug and go. then replug, amazing.This tent cost me less than $30 to build with loads of extra materials for future projects. Very portable and can be built up and taken down with a Phillips head.
EDIT:I realized I didnt explain myself very well.. I apologize. I have been building these for a long time. Single plant boxes to 8x8x8 rooms. Depending on the size of the room is the variable for which you decide on what size wood used. 1x2x8 for small jobs, 2x2x8 medium jobs, and finally 2x4x8 for large scale. In my case for this desktop build of 16x20x30" I used 1x2x8 and its fantastic. "Measure twice, cut once." Remember that before any build. Safety glasses are always a plus (oakley makes a nice pair). Decide your deminsions and then calculate what materials you need. Take your time and pay attention, the more you do the more left over materials you will have in the end.
-PappaBear
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Items you will need:
- 1x2x8 whiteboard or ceder furring strips
- 1 1/2" screws
- duct tape
- black & white poly-vinyl sheeting
Optional:
- drill
- scissors
- measuring tape
- skill saw
- paper masking tape
- card board
- stapler
- clamp
- pencil
- blade
- cardboard ___________________________________________________________________________
Frame:
Measure twice, cut once. Start out by calculating how many planks you will need before you start. Get all supplies, tools, and medication necessary for the application.
1x2x8 are not actually 1"x2", that said I want my cabin roughly around 16"x20"x30". So I measured for 4x 16", 4x 20",and 4x 30". Cut your wood all at once, but check your measurements before each cut. The length will end up being about 17 1/2" when all said and done.
Now you have the base material for your build. It is always a good idea to keep all tools and supplies organized.
This is a general model. The planks are free standing to check fit. As you can see they fit just fine.
We start by clamping our joints together with a c-clamp. I have pre-drilled pilot holes for the screws as not to split the wood. Start with 1x 16" plank and 1x 20" plank. Make sure the longer plank is on the outer sides. Drill two screws evenly spaced starting in the 20 and ending in your 16. (You will be repeating this step for the crown of your cabin as well.)
Do this for both ends, attach the other side in the same fashion. There should be 2x screws in each joint rite now totaling 8x screws.
Finishing the crown you should now have a general idea of the square footage of your grow.
Two outer frames complete. You can now check to see how they match up. You should have little to zero variance in the two.
Now you are ready for your supports. Clamp the 30" plank evenly at the end of the two outer support. Drill two more pilot holes to connect the 20 to the 30. The 16 will need to anchored to the 30 between the 4x screws. (Example in photo). This will account with how sturdy your joints are.
Wow, we have come along way from a few planks of wood haven't we? Repeat these steps for the last two supports. Checking your work along the way. Putting tools back where they need to be so there accessible when necessary.
Check all joints. There should be 5x screws in each joint. 4x connecting the 20 to the 30 and 1 connecting 16 to 30.
Now in my case, I built this one perfect for either a single plant, insemination room, or multi-veg .
The cabin frame is not finished. You can use it this way, but I advise a nice white paint or at least some type of sealant. If done correctly you will be able to mark all the corners that meet and you will have a collapsible frame that can be assembled with a screw driver.
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Tent:
View attachment 1253593Here we have our frame, post construction. Perfect for CFL clamps.
View attachment 1253586Un roll the poly enough to place your frame with an excess on both ends.
View attachment 1253582Using an extra plank, cut off the excess poly. In my case it is 2".
View attachment 1253599Now cut, but always remember. Measure twice, cut once.
View attachment 1253587Finish your cut using the plank as your guide. The less mess-ups, the more material left over for other projects.
View attachment 1253590Now lay frame face down on poly. Measure enough room for door to overlap top and sides a few inches, but NOT the bottom.
View attachment 1253585 Check your spacing.
View attachment 1253588Making sure you have the same amount of material on both ends.
View attachment 1253597Center the frame to bottom middle of door. Recheck spacing.
View attachment 1253600Using masking tape as a temporary hold, attach poly to frame.
View attachment 1253598You should now have overlapping sides taped to frame now with overlapping top still lying out.
View attachment 1253583Here is the top overlapping piece. Notice I cut a strip of cardboard box the same width as the panel. This will be to reinforce the door.
View attachment 1253589Folding the edges of the poly in, place the card board mid-center.
View attachment 1253584Make sure the card board is locked in the crease of the fold.
View attachment 1253592Folding cardboard filled poly over frame use stapler to attach the top of the door to top frame. Now tat it is attached to the frame, tear down will be a snap as it is only attached to one piece.
View attachment 1253591 A few good staples never hurt anyone. The cardboard reinforces the poly.
View attachment 1253595
View attachment 1253603After standing upright, cut the overlapping crease. This flap will eventually be on the outside.
View attachment 1253604This is what te front should look like.
View attachment 1253596Unroll the poly and lay the frame on its side. Remember to check spacing.
View attachment 1253594Use an extra panel as to measure a straight line for the cut, allowing for an extra few inches on both sides. Cutting away excess material.
View attachment 1253605Here is a side view. Now you can take the flaps of the door and tape them on the outside of the tent.
View attachment 1253580Now place upside down on the sheeting, leaving excess on all four sides.
View attachment 1253581You should have something that looks close to this.
View attachment 1253606Measure out the tape, the attach for all sides. Making sur it stays inside the front door flaps.
View attachment 1253579Repeat same steps for the top. Now you should have an extra flap for the front. Fold it down and attach.
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End:
View attachment 1253637 View attachment 1253639
End result being your basic cabin, great for all of your growing needs.
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+reps are heavily appreciated. I will continue to post the extras and mods when I can. Any questions, comments concerns please pm or forward them to this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/379192-you-said-you-want-grow.html . I hate sour duds so please save the negative comments, thanks.
-PappaBear
Generally it is best to have one plant per square foot. In the on I show you to build it is more of a "party cup" tent, or vegging small plants or even auto flowers. Im doing a auto g13 white russian and its has the biggest titties I have ever seen on an auto for being about a week into flower! Now about that poly.. mylar is great, poly is good and about 10% of the cost. What ever you use keep the walls tight and cardbored squares over your sheeting if you decide to staple to wood.. staple then card bored then wood..is how it should look.Hey brother, still fairly new to the site but have been doing a lot of research into putting something together for my first indoor grow and this definitely seems like the way to go .. so def +rep on this, excellent work! Quick question though .. 'bout how many plants could you grow in a tent this size, or rather what kind of specs would you recommend for let's say at least two plants, no more than five? Still haven't fully decided on how many to go with, but something in that range seems good; growing for personal use, just wanna make sure I'm covered from harvest to harvest is all. Any help or tips would be much appreciated man. Thanks.
Hey papa thanks for all the help. Here are a few pics of inspiration. This is what I have going on in the tent. 5 PK, one mexican sativa, three big devil autos one pictured at day 16. and two easyryders.
FANFUCKINTASTIC! This is what I like to see!If you buy the b/w poly online it is 100% light proof. I leave my door open sometimes for passive exaust but other then that there is no light leaks epcially when lights out.