Ph . . Important or just plain anal.
- Thread starter Godkas
- Start date
I did watch that video by the way. Though it is informative and the contribution is much appreciated I am still looking for real comparitive evidence of a healthy plant with off but survivable ph and one that is spot on. What if any is the change in overall yield? Potency? Science class guys somebody knows this stuff.
Seedlessone
Well-Known Member
Ok so let me ask you this...when you add your nutes (other than pee (N) and coffee grinds (N)) what are you gonna do about PH. These nutes alter the Ph. All I am saying is lockout is a bitch..it caused a lot by PH problems...
Well I plan on having flush periods. One week on nutrients one week off. This will also make it so the urine doesnt smell.
I am quirky not gross
I dont like the smell of pee either.
Heres Socko today (Nothings wrong with my finger I removed my fingerprints. "Seeing as how the USMC has them on file.")
I am quirky not gross
I dont like the smell of pee either.Heres Socko today (Nothings wrong with my finger I removed my fingerprints. "Seeing as how the USMC has them on file.")
Seedlessone
Well-Known Member
So you are gonna flush every week?
ablazed blunt
Well-Known Member
I don't see a problem with what your doing Godkas, but you do need to know your ph. Peeing on it is very good for the plants. I have heard of alot of people doing it. I have also heard of coffe. If you want more buds then you will check the ph and use the right stuff.
I might pick up a ph testing kit for research. I probably wont do anything to my ph unless I realize some huge discrepancy. Like I said its growing right now so I cant be too far off. I'm also trying to keep my spending almost non-existant. I have still only spent about $20 on this grow. Supplies water electricity. I know I need at least one more CFL to get much of anything from flowering but my control sprout is much much much smaller so I figure I will make a seperate box for flowering and clone vegging before they flower. either that or move them into the corner of my closet when I want to flower them.
Overall I think I can get this grow done with under 100 bucks spread over the lifetime of the plant. After that its dirt cheap. Water nutrients electricity and potting soil. I might veg a male once I get one so i can set aside a male clone and a female clone to seed.
Overall I think I can get this grow done with under 100 bucks spread over the lifetime of the plant. After that its dirt cheap. Water nutrients electricity and potting soil. I might veg a male once I get one so i can set aside a male clone and a female clone to seed.
Shes a happy sprout (and i say she in the utmost hopefullness)
420penguin
Well-Known Member
No offense to you Godkas, but I think this is one more argument for more subforums.
In every effort I've made I've always found people who want to attach ever gadget they can find(despite the cost), and then there are the followers who just want average returns, and then there are the cheapskates(I fall into this category on some things but not bud) and they deserve a place where they can chat together and come up with really grand inexpensive ideas. Plus they won't catch any flack from the rest of us.
Just my opinion.
In every effort I've made I've always found people who want to attach ever gadget they can find(despite the cost), and then there are the followers who just want average returns, and then there are the cheapskates(I fall into this category on some things but not bud) and they deserve a place where they can chat together and come up with really grand inexpensive ideas. Plus they won't catch any flack from the rest of us.
Just my opinion.
ablazed blunt
Well-Known Member
Computer fans work man. They might be cheap but just because they are cheap doesn't mean they don't work. Trust me on that one. Well let us all know how it turns out for you. Goodluck and happy growing.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Okay you want a good money saver here it is.
Contributed by: Stickydank
I've discovered the cheapest Mylar around-- only 2 bucks$! You save 18 bucks$ a roll! It?s a Christmas present wrapping Mylar called Polywrap
- Waterproof
- 50 square ft. a roll
- 1 mil (@ .001 inch) thick X 3 1/2 ft. wide X 20ft long.
Note: Only buy the very Bright and shiny Mylar-type wrapping!
Contributed by: Stickydank
I've discovered the cheapest Mylar around-- only 2 bucks$! You save 18 bucks$ a roll! It?s a Christmas present wrapping Mylar called Polywrap
- Waterproof
- 50 square ft. a roll
- 1 mil (@ .001 inch) thick X 3 1/2 ft. wide X 20ft long.
Note: Only buy the very Bright and shiny Mylar-type wrapping!
mogie
Well-Known Member
Good I wanna add to your headache. Better head for the Tylenol.
HOW DO I MAKE A SIMPLE REFLECTOR FOR YOUR COMPACT FLUORESCENT?
To build this reflector you will need a regular soda can, any brand will do, which you will need to rinse thoroughly until no residue is left inside. You will also need a good pair or scissor and a robust kitchen knife to cut the metal accordingly. An alternate method to remove the lid, would be to use a can opener. The lip of the lid can be used, and it will cut it cleanly. These tools should be chosen carefully as they will determine over failure or success of this construction. A lack of caution and a sharp metal edge can be fatal to your fingertips so think twice if your tools are capable of doing the job.
How and where to cut:
Firstly, draw a plan of your cutting path on the outside of the can using a permanent marker or a wax crayon. This will aid you to get a better overview of you plan and to avoid silly mistakes on the way.
Cutting the top part of the can out needs to be done first, adjusting the opening according to the size of your bulb. You do not have to cut it exactly to shape as glue (super or high-temp hot glue) can be used to stick the reflector to the bulb ballast later on. A can opener is the preffered tool for this job. The reflector is purposely not covering the ballast to ensure good aeration and to avoid damage to the ballast components, resulting in a short circuit.
Next, you will need to cut the main part of your soda can in half using your scissors. A hole may need to be drilled first using your kitchen knife to get a good starting point for the scissors.
The inside of the can is coated with a thin plastic layer that should not cause any trouble cutting through the sheet metal. The bottom side of the can does not have to remain in place but leaving it will add stability to the reflector and enhance the reflectivity. An extra hole can be cut into the bottom as well to improve ventilation along the bulb or to connect a 50mm pc-fan to the end.
Lastly, two more cuts have to be made into the sides of the semi-circle reflector to ensure that the sides do not reflect the light back to its origin but rather focus it to where it is needed. The reflector can now be bent according to your light requirements thus making it possible to focus it directly on your plants. If your reflector does not quite fit the bulb yet you can now use glue to stick it to the ballast.
HOW DO I MAKE A SIMPLE REFLECTOR FOR YOUR COMPACT FLUORESCENT?
To build this reflector you will need a regular soda can, any brand will do, which you will need to rinse thoroughly until no residue is left inside. You will also need a good pair or scissor and a robust kitchen knife to cut the metal accordingly. An alternate method to remove the lid, would be to use a can opener. The lip of the lid can be used, and it will cut it cleanly. These tools should be chosen carefully as they will determine over failure or success of this construction. A lack of caution and a sharp metal edge can be fatal to your fingertips so think twice if your tools are capable of doing the job.
How and where to cut:
Firstly, draw a plan of your cutting path on the outside of the can using a permanent marker or a wax crayon. This will aid you to get a better overview of you plan and to avoid silly mistakes on the way.
Cutting the top part of the can out needs to be done first, adjusting the opening according to the size of your bulb. You do not have to cut it exactly to shape as glue (super or high-temp hot glue) can be used to stick the reflector to the bulb ballast later on. A can opener is the preffered tool for this job. The reflector is purposely not covering the ballast to ensure good aeration and to avoid damage to the ballast components, resulting in a short circuit.
Next, you will need to cut the main part of your soda can in half using your scissors. A hole may need to be drilled first using your kitchen knife to get a good starting point for the scissors.
The inside of the can is coated with a thin plastic layer that should not cause any trouble cutting through the sheet metal. The bottom side of the can does not have to remain in place but leaving it will add stability to the reflector and enhance the reflectivity. An extra hole can be cut into the bottom as well to improve ventilation along the bulb or to connect a 50mm pc-fan to the end.
Lastly, two more cuts have to be made into the sides of the semi-circle reflector to ensure that the sides do not reflect the light back to its origin but rather focus it to where it is needed. The reflector can now be bent according to your light requirements thus making it possible to focus it directly on your plants. If your reflector does not quite fit the bulb yet you can now use glue to stick it to the ballast.