ablazed blunt
Well-Known Member
Nice tip mogie.
Ph . . Important or just plain anal.
- Thread starter Godkas
- Start date
mogie
Well-Known Member
Is it Tylenol or Excedrin Godkas?
Contributed by: Moshmont
Submitted: 10-07-03
How do I take microscopic quality pictures, the easy cheapo way?
This is specifically for people who have low resolution and or non-zoom equipped cameras.
In this I will show you how to get extremely up close pictures with a low resolution non zooming digital camera using a magnifying glass. The camera being used for this is an ?HP Photosmart 318?, it only has a max of 2.3 MP (Mega pixels) and no zoom. Cameras generally will have stars or numbers indicating the quality of the pic you want to take. The first two pictures where taken at max resolution, with and with out magnification, the deference is amazing.
Now you might be wondering, "What are you talking about magnifying glass?"
Here is a picture of the one that was used to take the second picture, the macro of Jefferson's eye. This particular type of magnification glass can usually be bought at any textile or hobby shop. All you have to do is carefully put it up to the agents lens of the camera. It will not try to auto-focus since it seeing everything though the magnifying glass.
?What if I already have a magnifying glass that size but, it doesn?t have a flat backing and am worried about it scratching my lens?"
This is easily solved buy taking a thick piece of card board and using a spade bit, large hole punch, razor blade basically anything that can cut or make a hole the size you want. Make the hole the sized of the camera lens then cut it out. THAT?S ALL YOU HAVE TO DO!!! The magnifying glass will seat in that as well as center it and space it far enough from the lens to avoid scratching. If you suspect the magnifying glass still might hit the lens just use a thinker piece of card board or two pieces. Use double sided tape to hold it on the lens housing, leaving your other hand free for the magnifying glass.
?But what If I don?t have a magnifying glass will any kind do??
No, you want to get a magnifying glass about ½? to ¾" in sized or as big as your lens. If it is really big (like the kind you would probably use to look at your plants with) it makes it bulge-sum and hard to get a clear over all picture.
In this picture you can clearly see the 0.5 MM marks.
One major advantage of this particular type of magnifying glass is the fact it has measurable increments . This can be helpful for a number of resins, determining the size of calyxes for indications of being ?seeded?, guesstimateing the severity of a pest infestation buy measuring the size of the pest to determine how long they have been there and many other things where measuring it?s size could be helpful.
The only down fall is that you need to have decent light. The light from your grow light should be plenty.
"Can I use this same technique with hand held microscopes?"
Yes absolutely, the only problem is if you don't have one with a light equipped you will need lots of light shinning directly on what you will be taking a picture of (A double A MAG light works great as seen in the picture). This particular one has 30x-40x-60x magnification. You may have to take the picture at full resolution if your camera has low MP's or if it's a low powered microscope. I suggest an 80x or more if you want pictures of individual trichomes.
A couple of tips for using this method.
Don?t use flash when doing this because of how close you have to get. Flash will just bluer, distort or make everything look white-ish.
If you have ?digital zoom? don?t use it, it will make the pic way to big to cut and paste. You would have to compress the picture buy stretch/skew-ing and the end result will be about the same size anyway.
In this pic you can see the trichomes close enough to judge harvest time with just 30x mag at 2 mega pixels with a disposable digital camera cam. This is the easiest and most inexpensive way I can think of to get good and clear up close pictures with out special picture taking equipment. This is perfect for pics of (female) pistillates and (male) staminates pre-flowers, trichomes, calyxes and small pests.
Photo contributed by: Mr45
This photo was taken at 50X MAG/1.2 mega pixel.
Photo contributed by: Timbo1
Other examples:
Note: All these pictures where taken with out the flash, I just used a cardboard box to steady my self while I took the picture. It will take some practice and a steady hand, before you can get good pic's everytime.
Contributed by: Moshmont
Submitted: 10-07-03
How do I take microscopic quality pictures, the easy cheapo way?
This is specifically for people who have low resolution and or non-zoom equipped cameras.
In this I will show you how to get extremely up close pictures with a low resolution non zooming digital camera using a magnifying glass. The camera being used for this is an ?HP Photosmart 318?, it only has a max of 2.3 MP (Mega pixels) and no zoom. Cameras generally will have stars or numbers indicating the quality of the pic you want to take. The first two pictures where taken at max resolution, with and with out magnification, the deference is amazing.
Now you might be wondering, "What are you talking about magnifying glass?"
Here is a picture of the one that was used to take the second picture, the macro of Jefferson's eye. This particular type of magnification glass can usually be bought at any textile or hobby shop. All you have to do is carefully put it up to the agents lens of the camera. It will not try to auto-focus since it seeing everything though the magnifying glass. ?What if I already have a magnifying glass that size but, it doesn?t have a flat backing and am worried about it scratching my lens?"
This is easily solved buy taking a thick piece of card board and using a spade bit, large hole punch, razor blade basically anything that can cut or make a hole the size you want. Make the hole the sized of the camera lens then cut it out. THAT?S ALL YOU HAVE TO DO!!! The magnifying glass will seat in that as well as center it and space it far enough from the lens to avoid scratching. If you suspect the magnifying glass still might hit the lens just use a thinker piece of card board or two pieces. Use double sided tape to hold it on the lens housing, leaving your other hand free for the magnifying glass. ?But what If I don?t have a magnifying glass will any kind do??
No, you want to get a magnifying glass about ½? to ¾" in sized or as big as your lens. If it is really big (like the kind you would probably use to look at your plants with) it makes it bulge-sum and hard to get a clear over all picture.
In this picture you can clearly see the 0.5 MM marks.
One major advantage of this particular type of magnifying glass is the fact it has measurable increments . This can be helpful for a number of resins, determining the size of calyxes for indications of being ?seeded?, guesstimateing the severity of a pest infestation buy measuring the size of the pest to determine how long they have been there and many other things where measuring it?s size could be helpful. The only down fall is that you need to have decent light. The light from your grow light should be plenty.
"Can I use this same technique with hand held microscopes?"
Yes absolutely, the only problem is if you don't have one with a light equipped you will need lots of light shinning directly on what you will be taking a picture of (A double A MAG light works great as seen in the picture). This particular one has 30x-40x-60x magnification. You may have to take the picture at full resolution if your camera has low MP's or if it's a low powered microscope. I suggest an 80x or more if you want pictures of individual trichomes. A couple of tips for using this method.
Don?t use flash when doing this because of how close you have to get. Flash will just bluer, distort or make everything look white-ish.
If you have ?digital zoom? don?t use it, it will make the pic way to big to cut and paste. You would have to compress the picture buy stretch/skew-ing and the end result will be about the same size anyway.
In this pic you can see the trichomes close enough to judge harvest time with just 30x mag at 2 mega pixels with a disposable digital camera cam. This is the easiest and most inexpensive way I can think of to get good and clear up close pictures with out special picture taking equipment. This is perfect for pics of (female) pistillates and (male) staminates pre-flowers, trichomes, calyxes and small pests. Photo contributed by: Mr45
This photo was taken at 50X MAG/1.2 mega pixel. Photo contributed by: Timbo1
Other examples:
Note: All these pictures where taken with out the flash, I just used a cardboard box to steady my self while I took the picture. It will take some practice and a steady hand, before you can get good pic's everytime.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Godkas snorts those excedrin.
Full sized Hash tumbler: See the article with photos by SCW
Dream Weaver's easy kif maker
Contributed by: Dream Weaver
Here's a method that I use to shake larger amounts - this method works wonders in minutes. Another member suggests that one should also put a few plastic or wooden beads into the jar to help agitate the material...I've also used small chunks of main stems to serve the same purpose on more than one occasion and I've noticed that it helps keep the screen free of trichome buildup as well.
Contributed by: bc-trichome-farmer
1 widemouth canning jar. The more trim you have, the bigger it should be. I use the quart size. They are also available in pint and gallon sizes. (*tip* - check the local thrift stores for cheap jars)
Silkscreen - 150 microns is a nice size
Trim
Change (currency) to knock off the trichomes
Place trim and change into the canning jar. Screw top ring (without lid) over the silkscreen onto the jar. Shake, shake, shake your way to funk-a-licious goodness!
Dream Weaver's easy kif maker
Contributed by: Dream Weaver
Here's a method that I use to shake larger amounts - this method works wonders in minutes. Another member suggests that one should also put a few plastic or wooden beads into the jar to help agitate the material...I've also used small chunks of main stems to serve the same purpose on more than one occasion and I've noticed that it helps keep the screen free of trichome buildup as well.
Contributed by: bc-trichome-farmer
Silkscreen - 150 microns is a nice size
Trim
Change (currency) to knock off the trichomes
Place trim and change into the canning jar. Screw top ring (without lid) over the silkscreen onto the jar. Shake, shake, shake your way to funk-a-licious goodness!
Mr Plumber
Active Member
keep them coming mog im taking notes hehe
makes my joint shake and a bunch of kif
mogie
Well-Known Member
How to turn a PC fan into an exhaust or intake fan?
Contributed by: Flowerman
Images archived: 2001
Just for fun, I wanted to show how easy it is to turn a PC fan into an intake, or into an exhaust fan. The fan I am using is quite small, but the objective is still the same. The first step is to find or buy a 12v DC plug adapter. This fan here is rated at 80cfm, which will work for a small box set-up.
Here's is some info on the 12v DC adapter: (Model 420A4141)
Output (DC) 12.0V @ 500mA
Output Voltage VDC(1)
Input 108VAC
Output Volts @ 100% Load 10.20
Input 132VAC
Output Volts @ 100% Load 13.60
Input 132VAC
Output Volts @ 10% Load 17.40
UL(2) UL*
CSA(3) L
Plug(4) 1
Simply cut the wires at the end, and strip down about a ¼ inch of bare wire is showing.
If you don’t know which wire to wire up, for instance they’re all black wires, don’t worry, it will only work one way, and if wired wrong, will simply not work at all. But the idea is, black to black, red to red. This one here that I used, had one black and one red coming from the fan, and from the adapter, one black and one black and white. The black and white wire from the adapter got wired to the all black wire from the fan. And the all black wire from the adapter, gets wired to the all red wire from the fan.
To add another fan, just connect the wires of the same together. All black goes with black, all red goes with red. So you would still only use 2 connectors all together. Here’s a few more pictures. But for the most part, I just wanted to show how simple it is. Make sure you get an adapter which is rated DC for the output.
Finished
Testing
Also a worthwhile consideration is places like radio shack and grainger also have nice 4" muffin fans that move as much as 200 cfm and more, which run on 110 vac. They come with a handy power cord that has a special connector on one end for the fan and a plug on the other end for plugging into the wall socket or humistat / thermostat.
Images archived: 2001
Just for fun, I wanted to show how easy it is to turn a PC fan into an intake, or into an exhaust fan. The fan I am using is quite small, but the objective is still the same. The first step is to find or buy a 12v DC plug adapter. This fan here is rated at 80cfm, which will work for a small box set-up.
Here's is some info on the 12v DC adapter: (Model 420A4141)
Output (DC) 12.0V @ 500mA
Output Voltage VDC(1)
Input 108VAC
Output Volts @ 100% Load 10.20
Input 132VAC
Output Volts @ 100% Load 13.60
Input 132VAC
Output Volts @ 10% Load 17.40
UL(2) UL*
CSA(3) L
Plug(4) 1
Simply cut the wires at the end, and strip down about a ¼ inch of bare wire is showing.
If you don’t know which wire to wire up, for instance they’re all black wires, don’t worry, it will only work one way, and if wired wrong, will simply not work at all. But the idea is, black to black, red to red. This one here that I used, had one black and one red coming from the fan, and from the adapter, one black and one black and white. The black and white wire from the adapter got wired to the all black wire from the fan. And the all black wire from the adapter, gets wired to the all red wire from the fan.
To add another fan, just connect the wires of the same together. All black goes with black, all red goes with red. So you would still only use 2 connectors all together. Here’s a few more pictures. But for the most part, I just wanted to show how simple it is. Make sure you get an adapter which is rated DC for the output.
Finished
Testing
Also a worthwhile consideration is places like radio shack and grainger also have nice 4" muffin fans that move as much as 200 cfm and more, which run on 110 vac. They come with a handy power cord that has a special connector on one end for the fan and a plug on the other end for plugging into the wall socket or humistat / thermostat.
mogie
Well-Known Member
One more.
Contributed by: Moshmont
Submitted: june24 2004
A little bit of info on what can control shaded pole and other general types of AC motors:
Potentiometer NO
Dimmer NO
Rheostat NO
Solid-State Speed/Power Controler YES
Variable Hertz/Frequency Drive YES
Potentiometers, Dimmers and Rheostats can not be used to control the speed of an AC motor. They all use forms of voltage resistance.
From first hand experience I know that even low draw Hz drives can cost well over $100 (I have seen them as high as $500 at a 1 Hp rating). Hz drives are a waste unless you need to precisely control the speed/pulse of something beyond/below the input frequency (or a capacitor run/start motor). The next best thing is a solid-state adjustment device.
$10-$15 Solid-State Controler (I.e. “fan controller”
$1.50 #16 (or bigger) extension type cord, with ground (2 feet)
¢80 3/8” cable connectors (x2)[/b]
$5 1 male & 1 female standard rubber 3-prong electrical plug
$3 Deep set 2”x3” electrical box
All of this can be bought at an home improvement store for around the same price (such as Home Depot or Lowes).
Note: you need to have some basic wiring skills to do this.
The first thing you need to do is confirm your not buying a Rheostat or Dimmer. Look at the price and what\'s printed on it (fan controls are more expensive). You need to make sure it says it can control “attic” and/or “whole house” fans. I chose the 100% controllable one, they also make them with a Low/Med/High setting. The next part isn’t much harder, basically all you do is strip your cable & wires and put on your plugs. In this case I already (knowingly) left some on the M/F ends from a previous project. Strip your cable and wires at the other end, then using the supplied wire nuts connect all commons (white wire) together. Connect one hot (black wire) to ether hot lead (black wire coming out of device). Now for the ground/s (green wire) use an extra wire nut. Or you can strip about 2” off all of them and twist them together nice and tight (if you don\'t have a wire nut). Next push the fan controller into the box, before doing so tuck the cluster of grounds under the other wires. There should also be 2 supplied machine screws that you will use to attach the mounting plate to the box.
That’s all there is too it, it can be used just like a regular fan (only now you can adjust the CFM’sspeed).
Notes: Don’t load it to max capacity. In this case using the 5 amp model don’t use it to control a fan/motor the uses more than 4 - 4.5 amps. These CAN NOT control capacitor start or run motors (you would need a Hz drive for that.). When used, the motor will get warm/warm-hot as if it where running regularly, this is normal. Another thing I would do is let the motor run for at least 3 hours (check on it from time to time) on the lowest setting just to make sure it won’t over heat.
Contributed by: Moshmont
Submitted: june24 2004
A little bit of info on what can control shaded pole and other general types of AC motors:
Potentiometer NO
Dimmer NO
Rheostat NO
Solid-State Speed/Power Controler YES
Variable Hertz/Frequency Drive YES
Potentiometers, Dimmers and Rheostats can not be used to control the speed of an AC motor. They all use forms of voltage resistance.
From first hand experience I know that even low draw Hz drives can cost well over $100 (I have seen them as high as $500 at a 1 Hp rating). Hz drives are a waste unless you need to precisely control the speed/pulse of something beyond/below the input frequency (or a capacitor run/start motor). The next best thing is a solid-state adjustment device.
$10-$15 Solid-State Controler (I.e. “fan controller”
$1.50 #16 (or bigger) extension type cord, with ground (2 feet)
¢80 3/8” cable connectors (x2)[/b]
$5 1 male & 1 female standard rubber 3-prong electrical plug
$3 Deep set 2”x3” electrical box
All of this can be bought at an home improvement store for around the same price (such as Home Depot or Lowes).
Note: you need to have some basic wiring skills to do this.
The first thing you need to do is confirm your not buying a Rheostat or Dimmer. Look at the price and what\'s printed on it (fan controls are more expensive). You need to make sure it says it can control “attic” and/or “whole house” fans. I chose the 100% controllable one, they also make them with a Low/Med/High setting. The next part isn’t much harder, basically all you do is strip your cable & wires and put on your plugs. In this case I already (knowingly) left some on the M/F ends from a previous project. Strip your cable and wires at the other end, then using the supplied wire nuts connect all commons (white wire) together. Connect one hot (black wire) to ether hot lead (black wire coming out of device). Now for the ground/s (green wire) use an extra wire nut. Or you can strip about 2” off all of them and twist them together nice and tight (if you don\'t have a wire nut). Next push the fan controller into the box, before doing so tuck the cluster of grounds under the other wires. There should also be 2 supplied machine screws that you will use to attach the mounting plate to the box.
That’s all there is too it, it can be used just like a regular fan (only now you can adjust the CFM’sspeed).
Notes: Don’t load it to max capacity. In this case using the 5 amp model don’t use it to control a fan/motor the uses more than 4 - 4.5 amps. These CAN NOT control capacitor start or run motors (you would need a Hz drive for that.). When used, the motor will get warm/warm-hot as if it where running regularly, this is normal. Another thing I would do is let the motor run for at least 3 hours (check on it from time to time) on the lowest setting just to make sure it won’t over heat.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Godkas do you prefer Excedrin?
Building your own inline fan
· I took a few scraps of 1/4 sheeting I had laying around and popped a 4" hole in each with a hole saw. Most any piece of scrap wood works for this - it doesn't have to be 1/4 inch.
· Get two 4" tab collars. Tab collars are intended to be used on material ~3/4" in thickness - use a pair of tin snips to extend the tab cuts. See tab1.jpg and tab2.jpg for before/after shots. Note that the tab collar in the photos is a 6" version - I didn't have another 4" laying around.
· Place the tab collar in the 4" hole you drilled in step 1 and fold the tabs back. Repeat for second tab collar. Use a pair of leather work gloves when folding those tabs back - once you cut those tabs with the snips, they become *real* sharp.
· Stack the two tab collars and the fan in the final position, then using your drill and 3" sheet rock screws tighten things up. The sheet rock screws will go through that tab collar like butter, so make sure your finger isn't lined up with that screw when you put it in!.
· Attach the inline fan assembly to your light and exhaust ports. Note: I had previously modified that light hood as outlined in my sig.
All of these fans require you to buy a "pigtail". See "Optional Accessories" below item on each page. Avail in diff lengths and 45 or 90 degree heads, but they really aren't optional. They avg about $1.50.
Building your own inline fan
Contributed by: ngc7579
Submitted: September 16th, 2003
I used a Comair MX2A4 115cfm A/C fan for this project. I bought it at Grainger (was about $30).
Submitted: September 16th, 2003
I used a Comair MX2A4 115cfm A/C fan for this project. I bought it at Grainger (was about $30).
· I took a few scraps of 1/4 sheeting I had laying around and popped a 4" hole in each with a hole saw. Most any piece of scrap wood works for this - it doesn't have to be 1/4 inch. · Get two 4" tab collars. Tab collars are intended to be used on material ~3/4" in thickness - use a pair of tin snips to extend the tab cuts. See tab1.jpg and tab2.jpg for before/after shots. Note that the tab collar in the photos is a 6" version - I didn't have another 4" laying around.
· Place the tab collar in the 4" hole you drilled in step 1 and fold the tabs back. Repeat for second tab collar. Use a pair of leather work gloves when folding those tabs back - once you cut those tabs with the snips, they become *real* sharp. · Stack the two tab collars and the fan in the final position, then using your drill and 3" sheet rock screws tighten things up. The sheet rock screws will go through that tab collar like butter, so make sure your finger isn't lined up with that screw when you put it in!.
· Attach the inline fan assembly to your light and exhaust ports. Note: I had previously modified that light hood as outlined in my sig. All of these fans require you to buy a "pigtail". See "Optional Accessories" below item on each page. Avail in diff lengths and 45 or 90 degree heads, but they really aren't optional. They avg about $1.50.
i use urine on my outdoor plants,mixed first of course,and mollasses etc ,but coffee grounds sound different,pity i only drink instant or i would give it a go .Never raised roses I see. They are quite similar plants.
Urine is high in nitrogen and coffee grounds are really high in plant nutrients as well.
cyphercrash
Well-Known Member
mogie
Well-Known Member
Okay Godkas you heard the lady it's Tylenol for you and you don't snort it this time either!
How do I make my own Rooting hormone?
Contributed by: ¤Spiritus†Domini¤ & Flowerman
Cut some willow branches (All willow species produce this natural rooting hormone), into 2" or 4" long pieces (enough pieces to fill a bowl).
Put the willow cuttings into a big kettle (or pot) on the stove, fill with water (all cuttings should be are covered by water). Turn on minimum heat setting, cover with a lid, and leave on low (but do not boil) for 2 hours. Then turn off heat and leave kettle covered for 12 hours.
After the mixture has cooled for 12 hours, the water should be a dark brown. Strain out the water, and discard the branches. Pour the mixture into a container with a plastic top with holes pre-made, and just drop your cuttings in. Let the clones sit in the hormone for 12 to 24 hours (thus allowing the cuttings to fully absorb the rooting hormones), then plant into your medium.
Use as much rooting hormone as you require, then discard the used portion. The unused hormone can be stored in the ice box for years
How do I make my own Rooting hormone?
Contributed by: ¤Spiritus†Domini¤ & Flowerman
Cut some willow branches (All willow species produce this natural rooting hormone), into 2" or 4" long pieces (enough pieces to fill a bowl).
Put the willow cuttings into a big kettle (or pot) on the stove, fill with water (all cuttings should be are covered by water). Turn on minimum heat setting, cover with a lid, and leave on low (but do not boil) for 2 hours. Then turn off heat and leave kettle covered for 12 hours.
After the mixture has cooled for 12 hours, the water should be a dark brown. Strain out the water, and discard the branches. Pour the mixture into a container with a plastic top with holes pre-made, and just drop your cuttings in. Let the clones sit in the hormone for 12 to 24 hours (thus allowing the cuttings to fully absorb the rooting hormones), then plant into your medium.
Use as much rooting hormone as you require, then discard the used portion. The unused hormone can be stored in the ice box for years
mogie
Well-Known Member
What is a wick cloner, and how do I build one?
Contributed by: OOgleBird
Submitted: 12-08-2003
A wick cloner is a two part system that uses both a reservoir container and a container for medium. The two containers are nested together and a wick runs from the lower reservoir container to the upper medium container.
Why a wick cloner?
Its low maintenance. I only add water to mine every few days. But using a larger bottom reservoir would allow no required maintenance for a week or longer if any at all.
If the reservoir is maintained with water the medium stays consistently moist, with almost no effort...
It can be made out of household materials. I use 2 two liter bottles, some string and some vermiculite at minimum.
Can I use different mediums?
Sure so far people have used vermiculite, perlite, rockwool, and Rapid Rooters. These medium can also be used in combinations.
Does it work?
When I first began using the wick cloner I had immediate success.. My first run of clones resulted in about 70% success and I was delighted.. More recently I have been having 100% success with the first 20 clones using a specific method that will be documented here...
Materials needed:
Cloning gel (I use purple clonex)
A small container to pour the clonex in ( do not use the clonex container to dip the plants in. It can contaminate the clonex.)
I used a piece of 1/2 inch plastic pipe and 1/2 x 3/4 connector for the base.
I inserted some plastic wrap into the 1/2 inch plastic pipe to form the dipping container.
Scissors
Something to poke a hole in the Vermiculite.
Building the cloner (first 4 pics)
Contributed by: OOgleBird
Submitted: 12-08-2003
A wick cloner is a two part system that uses both a reservoir container and a container for medium. The two containers are nested together and a wick runs from the lower reservoir container to the upper medium container.
Why a wick cloner?
Its low maintenance. I only add water to mine every few days. But using a larger bottom reservoir would allow no required maintenance for a week or longer if any at all.
If the reservoir is maintained with water the medium stays consistently moist, with almost no effort...
It can be made out of household materials. I use 2 two liter bottles, some string and some vermiculite at minimum.
Can I use different mediums?
Sure so far people have used vermiculite, perlite, rockwool, and Rapid Rooters. These medium can also be used in combinations.
Does it work?
When I first began using the wick cloner I had immediate success.. My first run of clones resulted in about 70% success and I was delighted.. More recently I have been having 100% success with the first 20 clones using a specific method that will be documented here...
Materials needed:
Cloning gel (I use purple clonex)
A small container to pour the clonex in ( do not use the clonex container to dip the plants in. It can contaminate the clonex.)
I used a piece of 1/2 inch plastic pipe and 1/2 x 3/4 connector for the base.
I inserted some plastic wrap into the 1/2 inch plastic pipe to form the dipping container.
Scissors
Something to poke a hole in the Vermiculite.
Building the cloner (first 4 pics)
The cloner requires two 2 liter bottles. I normally cut the bottom from the bottle top at about the bottom of the label. 
The second picture shows the top portion of the cloner. The pencil demonstrates the approximate size of the hole required for the wick to pass thru... Next to that is the string used for the wick. It is nylon seine string I bought from Wal-Mart. I use 5 pieces of string about 10 inches in length. Simply gather all the pieces together and tie them in the middle. The knot will be too large to pass thru the pencil sized hole.... I don?t make the knot too tight, just firm.
The third picture shows both parts of the wick cloner. One end of the wick has been inserted thru the hole. The wick strings have been spread over the top container (The cloner part). 
The fourth picture shows the bottom container (reservoir part)with water. The top container(cloner part) has about the same amount of vermiculite in the top as there is water in the reservoir part... Cloning procedure
Have the small container of clonex, and the wick cloner ready for use... Wash your hands carefully.
Once the cutting is made I use wounding or scarification. All that?s required is to lay the stem flat on something and scrape opposite sides with a razor blade... We only want to remove a small amount of the outer stem.
Usually I scrape in about 3 or 4 passes on each side... care should be taken not to remove too much of the outer tissue (This is very important). There is no question based on how the plants form roots that the wounding and/or hormones have a distinct and favorable effect.
Dip the cutting in the clonex count to 5 and insert the stem into the hole you made vermiculite.
I find I can fit about 15 clones around the outside of the cloner.. Then several more inside that. 20 clones in this thing is not unreasonable or overcrowded... Make sure that all plants have access to light....
You could also use about 5 or 6 whole rapid rooter plugs and larger clones....
Cloning notes:
My clones are made based mostly on size... If I see prospect that has a nice piece of stem and a couple leaves I see a good cutting.
Lighting - I use indirect lighting. The light is not directly over my plants... Make sure the light is well away from the cuttings if the light is over the plants or is low lumens.
Some cloning myths:
You must make the final cut under water or an embolism could kill your plant.. I did not find this...You must have at least one node that you strip under the medium: I did not find this. I suspect that the node thing is a method of wounding/scarification, which I believe is helpful.You need a humidity dome to root the cuttings; I have rooted many without one, but they may work better with a dome. Cutting the stem at a 45 degree angle; this doesn?t seem to matter much either.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Godkas did you snort that Tylenol again. Dam someone take his straws away. Bad boy.
How do I make an ebb & flow hydroponic system?
The goal: To demonstrate the construction of an Ebb & Flow hydroponic system.
The system being constructed is small, however the design is the same as larger systems.
Parts list...
How do I make an ebb & flow hydroponic system?
The goal: To demonstrate the construction of an Ebb & Flow hydroponic system.
The system being constructed is small, however the design is the same as larger systems.
Parts list...
- Resturant bus tub, 15 1/2" x 20 1/2" x 4 1/2", flood tray.
- Resturant bus tub, 15 1/2" x 20 1/2" x 7", reservoir.
- Reservoir lid, 15 3/4" x 22".
- Overflow fitting.
- Fill/drain fitting.
- Water pump, 70 gph.
- Tubing, 1/2" ID.
- Aquarium air pump.
- Air stones.
- Green air line.
Notice, in the pictures above, the one inch holes, in the flood tray for the overflow, and fill/drain fittings, also, the two inch holes in the lid, for the fittings to pass through.
A view of the plumbed flood tray with lid. See how it fits over the fittings.
This is a view of the reservoir with lid, and plumbed flood tray.
Here, it's all assembled. The water and air pumps are not shown. The power cord, and air lines fit between, the reservoir and lid. A small notch may need to be added, to avoid pinching the air lines, and to help the flood tray sit level.
Assembled with six 5 1/2" square pots. Notice the easy access to both fittings. The fill/drain fitting has a connector for a 1/2" hose, under the screen. Remove the screen, connect the hose, turn the pump on, and pump out the nutrient solution. Makes reservoir change outs very easy.
Another view of the system.
Note: Choosing a container...
Not all containers are made equal. Some are very sturdy, while others are not. Using a weak container will only lead to failure and a flood. Choose heavy duty containers. Also, some containers will need a center support to keep them level under the weight of the nutrient solution.
Note: About sizes...
The reservoir should be large enough, to hold two, to three times the volume of the flood tray or table. The pump should be sized to flood the tray in 5 min. or less.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Contributed by: Burramys Parvus
Credit to: Locutus
Editor's note: We do not recommend pipes or bongs made of plastic or metal; they may release toxic vapours when heated.
Aluminum cans, plastic fittings, plastic pop cans, etc are very common but should be considered dangerous to use as materials for DIY smoking gear.
Aluminum cans are coated in graphics externally, and have a plastic internal layer to protect the aluminum from acidic pop inside. Plastic bottles can emit toxic vapours even at lower temperatures.
Please do not use these types of homemade pipes, even with a screen cone piece in place!
Glass is inert and is the best material to construct pipes.
Have you got weed and a lighter, but nothing to smoke out of? Or you just want to let your creativity flow? Here are some of the devices that are easy to make and use.
BEFORE YOU READ THIS FAQ:
I may refer to 'cone' or 'bowl' pieces. It depends which part of the globe you are from, but they are more-or-less the same thing. To make one of these (if you don't have one) you can use aluminum foil by folding it into the shape of a cone and poking some holes. This can also be done by cutting a section of an aluminum can and rolling it up into the shape of a cone. You will need to use your imagination for this one! Also note that as these are NOT proper pieces, they should only be used on rare occasions, as plastics/metals used in these materials can be harmful to your health.
1) Water Bong
2) Gravity Bong
3) Waterfall Bong
4) Joint
5) Apple pipe
6) Paper roll pipe
7) Vaporizer
Credit to: Locutus
Editor's note: We do not recommend pipes or bongs made of plastic or metal; they may release toxic vapours when heated.
Aluminum cans, plastic fittings, plastic pop cans, etc are very common but should be considered dangerous to use as materials for DIY smoking gear.
Aluminum cans are coated in graphics externally, and have a plastic internal layer to protect the aluminum from acidic pop inside. Plastic bottles can emit toxic vapours even at lower temperatures.
Please do not use these types of homemade pipes, even with a screen cone piece in place!
Glass is inert and is the best material to construct pipes.
Have you got weed and a lighter, but nothing to smoke out of? Or you just want to let your creativity flow? Here are some of the devices that are easy to make and use.
BEFORE YOU READ THIS FAQ:
I may refer to 'cone' or 'bowl' pieces. It depends which part of the globe you are from, but they are more-or-less the same thing. To make one of these (if you don't have one) you can use aluminum foil by folding it into the shape of a cone and poking some holes. This can also be done by cutting a section of an aluminum can and rolling it up into the shape of a cone. You will need to use your imagination for this one! Also note that as these are NOT proper pieces, they should only be used on rare occasions, as plastics/metals used in these materials can be harmful to your health.
1) Water Bong
2) Gravity Bong
3) Waterfall Bong
4) Joint
5) Apple pipe
6) Paper roll pipe
7) Vaporizer