dannydakota
Member
I've grown using a 120w LED from HTG. 2 plants, I got 2oz each. Pretty close to the gram per watt. And that was in soil.
that spretty good results thumbs up broI've grown using a 120w LED from HTG. 2 plants, I got 2oz each. Pretty close to the gram per watt. And that was in soil.
Hudson.....no offense taken. You always make great points and provide realistic expectations and honest information. I didn't know I was being compared to Irish and LBG and seeing as how I only have one completed grow and screwed it up with nute issues perhaps people need to find someone else
I often end up in arguments pertaining to Blackstar but it is ONLY a reaction to people who claim they are the best and I don't think that is fair to the people looking for honest information. I have never claimed my LED's were the best and the only grow I have completed (and screwed up with nute issues) still produced better than any Blackstar grow for grams per watt and it wasn't because I grew that well.
That being said there is nothing in the price range other than HID to compete with Blackstar so if that's the budget you have to work with I would definately recommend any grower get them over HID purely from a detection and safety standpoint. They will definately produce some decent smoke and you won't be dissapointed. If you have more money for startup and are in this for the long haul I think there are other lights that produce better yeilds and thus be more profitable even if they cost more to begin with.
So back to your points:
If you consider startup costs only....LED makes no sense. Also, in terms of the ability of a light to produce weight in a fixed space....I think HID wins that fight every time. I've known people who get 2.25 pounds from a 4x4 area. I think if I get this dialed I will pull 1.4-1.5 in a 4x4 (I might be dreaming too) so no contest there.
On LBG's grow. It was a confined space. He doesn't have an entire attic. He has the end gable in a house. It's 4 ft wide. 3 ft high and 14 ft long. One of the walls on the long sides is at a 45 degree angle so the 4 ft wide reduces to 1 ft wide at the max height of 3 ft. He needs room to crawl down the side of his grow so his actual growing area is 2 ft wide, 3 ft high and he has a carbon filter at one end and his co2 at the other so the actual growing length is 12ft. In other words he has very limited height and 24 sq ft.
Basically he's growing the equivalent of a 5x5 area and has 30" from the floor to the bottom of his lights. First off you couldn't use HPS in that area without starting a fire because they'd be jammed into the corner of the ceiling. But lets say you could use two 400's. You'd still need 8" off the lights for the plants and with 8" for pots (stubbys) you could have 14" plants. So two 400's over 14" plants in a 4x4 area. I really don't think they'd pull 26 zips and I'd be surprised if they broke a pound. To your point of this being about the money, I agree. Grams per watt in the end is dollars per watt because even if you grow your own, if you didn't you'd have to buy it. Anyway, he couldn't grow with HPS in that area so LED is the money in that space.
So back to the money discussion. The startup cost sucks but I really think that LED has commercial merit and that's what I'm hoping to prove in the next couple grows. The commercial guys I used to know never grew anywhere for more than a year as detection was inevitable. Once a year they had complete construction costs at a new location. That's not cheap and it also wastes time which is money.
For those trying to run the biggest show they can under the radar:
Where I am it is generally accepted that you can get away with a four light show or a three light show with A/C. The A/C route is preferable as it allows for co2 and sealed environment avoiding odor and humidity detection issues which are big when you are trying to vent hot, humid air in sub zero temperatures. Either way the limit is 4000 watts. That's where LED has great commercial viability as LED has the highest grams per watt so basically it grows the most weed and thus is the most profitable.
Now to your point which is very valid and is probably the category MOST PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM FALL INTO. If you are growing in a 4x4 or 4x8 area then HID is the cheapest to start up and will produce the most bud in that space so in the end it's the best bang for the buck and most profitable. HID produce so much light that when LED are added they become supplemental lighting so at that point just buy the cheapest LED's you can as their contribution is minimal anyway.
Cheers!
Thanks I just bought another one, and gonna bump it up another plant.that spretty good results thumbs up bro
jim seems a lil slowGrams per watt is trivial. Example:
Tom: "Whoa man I got 1 gram/watt from that anylighthere, its badass!"
Jim: "Wow, I only got .5 from the same light, you da man!"
Tom: "Don't feel bad bro, my plants were larger because I vegged longer, so of course I got more bud than you."
Jim: "But I feel so inadequate when we compare grams/watt."
Tom: "It's OK, it doesn't mean anything without the light cycle, because energy consumption is not measured in watts, its measured in watt-hours."
Jim: "..."
Tom: "So if we look at g/Wh as a measure of efficiency, and not just part of the measurement like g/w... you were way more efficient!"
Jim: "But its the same light..."
Tom: "Sure but I had it running longer so the plants are bigger from all that extra energy from the light."
Jim: "But they're the same lights, they should use the same energy..."
Tom: "Not when they're not being used, Jim."
Jim: "..."
Don't be like Jim
<3
seen a 3kw hps setup get repaced with 560w led + 1kw hps and yield doubling with same strain in same time period same system forgot which panel was being used gonna have to find ithas any one done a even wattage test on led -hps or mh
like a 600w led vs a 600w hps
Well thats about 220-250w of LED power, it sounds good enough although I don't know the lens angle or price (or have pic to give idea of quality)thats cool hps and led seem to work well together i was thinking of buying a 400 or 600w hps to go with my 120w led
do you like the sound of this?
144*3w
in
red 660, 630 in 1:1 ratio
far red 730
blue 430-450
blue 470
white 6400k , 2700k in 1:1
and be R.7:FR.1:B.1:B.1:W.1
lense angle is 90 degreesWell thats about 220-250w of LED power, it sounds good enough although I don't know the lens angle or price (or have pic to give idea of quality)
Well 144 3w LEDs should run about 216-252w total, which is 1.5 - 1.75w per 3w diode (they don't run higher for good reasons). That doesn't count fans, which I imagine should run about 2-4w each, and most good panels have 6lense angle is 90 degrees
630nm red: 48pcs
660nm red: 48pcs
730nm far red: 12pcs
430-450nm blue: 12pcs
460-670nm blue: 12pcs
6400k white: 6pcs
2700k white: 6pcs
how is it 250 if its using 3w leds wouldn't it be 432
The Chinese can make great shit, its usually the buyer that wants to cut corners in manufacturing, you can get amazing LED panels with all the great features from factories in China, you just have to know the right one to talk to and know what you want. But since most us won't every spend more than $1,000 on an LED light, they might not be interested in that kind of quality product for such small orders?regular computer heatsinkshave driven leds at full power its just the chinese are to lazy to ad in a real heat sink you just get this thermal pcb and crappy heat plate with bumps for added surface area bolted on sometimes you dont even get the thermal pcb you get an aluminm plate attached to the diodes which are then atached to a plastic pcb which warps under the diodes heating up and makes the light shit itself
think youre lackingin blue might wanna bump it up more also seen one guy on another site just using 460 and 660 and getting great buds so you prolly dont need all those spectrums either
if your room is insulated enough then an hid would work fine for keeping the room heated the insulation would retain heat during lights off or run the hid during the night when it's cold and leave it of during the daytime flip the light cycle opposite to the sun thats what i see bunches of growers doHey Hudson, quick question. You ALWAYS list heat source as a plus for HID. "Better than adding a heater." How does that work for you when the lights are off and you actually need the heat?
Not trying to single you out, but you're the most recent person to bring it up. When you think about it, it doesn't eliminate the need for a heater at all...
everything uses a printed circuit board unless its directly wiredThe Chinese can make great shit, its usually the buyer that wants to cut corners in manufacturing, you can get amazing LED panels with all the great features from factories in China, you just have to know the right one to talk to and know what you want. But since most us won't every spend more than $1,000 on an LED light, they might not be interested in that kind of quality product for such small orders?
Some of the better companies don't even use the PCB and the diodes sit directly on finned heat sink, mine is supposed to be this way (and I can believe it with 252 3w LEDs (including fans whole thing runs 395w) the glass is barely warm, and the heat coming out the vents is warm (efficient cooling system, light produces maybe 20% as much heat as a 400w HPS)
Well I know GLH said their diodes sit directly on heat sink and not PCB then heat sink. Pretty sure another company does this, sent GLH an email asking for further clarification. In comments on pics of the heat sink of a GLH panel some people said there were more breakers than normal or something, maybe thats part of it? I'm not about to take mine apart, but I just gave it a close look in all the nooks and crannies and these little holes the wires go through, I definitely can't spot any PCB and it doesn't look as if there is enough room in there between the diodes and the heat sink to fit anything.everything uses a printed circuit board unless its directly wired