How Do You PH Balance Soil?

N

newbie1272

Member
Im looking for some advice please can you or someone help me ??

I have been trying to grow white widow for a few years now just personal smoke. I have always had the same problem with them though which I believe is a ph problem. I just got a few other strains like ak47 g13 and superskunk so I am going to give them a try.
Anyways I can never get my soil ph right. My ww leaves start buring in the 2nd or 3ed week of flowering. starting at the bottom and working there way up. I use Promix bx and LC'S recipie
but the soil ph runoff seems to come out at 5.5-5.75 .... If I water with 7.0 water that is.... So I use 8.0 water to get a 6.0-6.3 ph
What can I do to get the soil ph perfectly balanced ? just add more lime ? Im afraid of using too much, heres my recipie below...
I use a 3 quart sauce pan when mixing and call it one part in the mix below,
6 Parts promix
2 parts worm castings or organic humas
2 parts perlite
1 cup bone meal
1/2 cup blood meal
1/2 cup kelp meal
1/2 cup greensand
1 cup of dolomite lime
Mix it all up and wet it, let it sit for a couple weeks before use and keep it moist, mix up again just before use.

All mixed up this is about 1 cubic foot and I get 2-3 three gallon containers out of it

what can I do to get a 6.5 ph soil so when I water with 6.5 water it stays 6.5 in the soil for the life of the plant??? I can never get this correct.......

I just want a perfectly healthy plant for a change can someone help me with this please ?

Thankyou soo much for any responses I really do apprichate it very much!! ​
 
max316420

max316420

Well-Known Member
wow dude have i got the thread for you.... Don't let the title fool you, it pertains to exactly what your asking
 
N

newbie1272

Member
Awesome!! Thankyou I have been reading that thread since you posted it. Im guessing I am not using enough lime and will add more and see where my levels are at.
Im going to Lowes tomorrow to see if there is a 50 lb bag of lime for me :)

Have a great nite! Thanks again
 
snowman4839

snowman4839

Well-Known Member
Just pH the water where you need it (between 6.5 to 6.8), water it a bunch, then check the runoff pH. Adjust the pH of the water as needed and keep running the pH'd water through the soil. When your runoff is finally between 6.5-6.8pH, you're ready for the plant. At least that's how I do it. It's not a big deal if you have it a little low or high, just try to make you water a bit more basic or acidic to balance it out at the next watering. I've had my plants in as low as 6.1pH and high as like 7.1pH but I always corrected it within 1-2 waterings and they're doing beautifully.
 
N

newbie1272

Member
Right, I currently have to adjust my water to 8.0 roughly to get a 6.3 ph..... I would rather use strait tap water which mine is around 6.5 but then my run off would be low to mid 5's
unless I can balance my soil to 6.5-6.8
 
Bublonichronic

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
hey man, i must say im flatterd you would ask my advice, expecially since im not a super smart dood who can break shit down into a scientific equation you cant even understand anyway.. but, first off i am usually against mixing up your own soil unless you know exactly what your doing(proven recipes are cool to, but make sure there PROVEN i.e. "subcool supersoil"), ingredient ratios are important for maintaining proper pH(again, in my uneducated opinion) so if your mixing in to much of one thing, or not enough of another, depending on the roll it plays, can effect your plant (pH) in differnt ways...but that being said, your soil pH is naturally gonna drop, my GUESS for why the soil pH drops over time, is the waist from the roots (water) comes out a little more acidic then it went in, so regular flushes are needed to keep the soil pH in check (also, aids in leeching the soil of salt built ups, this works for me) but, im sure you can find a much more articulated answer from other members....also this is out of left field...but roots excellurator is the best root product on the market:bigjoint:

[youtube]-JJb3JiqYlY[/youtube] i personally dont trust this guy (or AN at all) but the shit works like magic

EDIT: i really dont like using run off as way to find soil pH, but your soil pH should be a GOOD couple points higher than the run off
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
newbie1272 said:
Awesome!! Thankyou I have been reading that thread since you posted it. Im guessing I am not using enough lime and will add more and see where my levels are at.
Im going to Lowes tomorrow to see if there is a 50 lb bag of lime for me :)

Have a great nite! Thanks again
Click to expand...
My mix is very similar, based on LC's, but I do a couple of things differently.

Besides the powdered dolomite, I also add pelletized dolomite, ~1/2 cup/cf in addition to the 1cup/cf of the powdered. The pellets take a couple of months to break down, right when the powdered is being depleted in flowering.

Another thing I've done is substitute alfalfa meal for the blood meal in the initial mix. This really cuts down on the volatilization between the blood meal and the lime. I do use blood meal later as a top dress.

Wet
 
Bublonichronic

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
xtreem gardening "Mykos" the best stuff iv used, they were giving away free samples to MJ growers on YT, and needless to say the product speaks for itself, ill never not use it
 
max316420

max316420

Well-Known Member
huuuh? we're not talking about that same stuff are we? lol Dude at my hydro shop gave it to me and told me to try it.. ( gotta love getting free shit ) Are these to products similar?



Myco Madness is a soluble powder which contains a biologically active package: 9 mycorrhizal species, 15 beneficial bacteria and 2 trichoderma species well-suited to a variety of media, soil conditions, climates and plants. Myco Madness contains mycorrhizal fungi that colonize plant roots and extend the root system into the surrounding media, greatly enhancing the absorptive surface area of root systems.
Myco Madness can help in forming an essential link between the plant roots, organic matter and fertilizers of all types.
Myco Madness can help plants improve nutrient and water uptake for superior plant performance.
Humboldt Nutrients employed one of the leading mycologists in mycorrhizal studies to help in the formulation of this yield and quality-enhancing product. Many university studies have proven the superiority of products created by this mycologist.
Guaranteed Analysis

Bacteria:
Bacillus licheniformis………………….……….…372 million cfu/lb
Bacillus azotoformans……………..…….………372 million cfu/lb
Bacillus megaterium.…………..…..……..….….372 million cfu/lb
Bacillus coagulans,…….…………………………372 million cfu/lb
Bacillus pumilis…………..…….………………….372 million cfu/lb
Bacillus thuringiensis…………..………………….372 million cfu/lb
Bacillus stearothermiphillis…….………………….372 million cfu/lb
Paenibacillus polymyxa….…………..…………….372 million cfu/lb
Paenibacillus durum…………………..…………….372 million cfu/lb
Paenibacillus florescence..………….………..….372 million cfu/lb
Paenibacillus gordonae…..………….…………….372 million cfu/lb
Azotobacter polymxa………………….………..….372 million cfu/lb
Azotobacter chroococcum……………………..….372 million cfu/lb
Sacchromyces cervisiae………………………..….372 million cfu/lb
Pseudomonas aureofaceans…………………..….372 million cfu/lb
Mycorrhiza:
Endomycorrhizal/cc
Glomus intraradices……………….……..…1,135 propagules per lb
Glomas mosseae……………………………1,135 propagules per lb
Glomas aggregatum………………………..1,135 propagules per lb
Glomus entunicatum……………..…………1,135 propagules per lb
Glomus clarum………………….………..….1,135 propagules per lb
Glomus deserticola….………………………1,135 propagules per lb
Gigaspora margarita………..………………1,135 propagules per lb
Gigaspora brasilianum………..….…………1,135 propagules per lb
Gigaspora monosporum………….…………1,135 propagules per lb
Trichoderma:
Trichoderma harzianum……….….150 million propagules per lb
Trichoderma konigii………..……….150 million propagules per lb
CONTAINS NON PLANT FOOD INGREDIENTS:
9.5% Humic acids (derived from Leonardite)
5% Alaskan humus, 5% worm castings
3% glucose



To be honest with you I don't really know shit about root enhancers YET but i will soon enough lol
 
max316420

max316420

Well-Known Member
so i just watched a video of this dude on youtube " reviewing " it and he said it was shit and he didn't like it but I think the fucking moron was trying to use it for actually starting roots.. here check this out.. Is it just me or does it seem like that's what he tried using it for.


[video=youtube;jEZM37uNNLI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEZM37uNNLI[/video]
 
Bublonichronic

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
looks his rooting hormone was fast root... but as far as the "smell" and "powder gettin in your nose" great white is the same, its a fine powder....the mykos is a granular PURE form, companies like greatwhite and Humbolt buy mykorizi in the form of XGs shit, blend the fuck out of it to a powder and "water it down" with a bunch of useless shit that makes growers feel like they gettin there moneys worth, thats what iv read/heard, and the XG results like i said, speak for themself
 
max316420

max316420

Well-Known Member
good readin dude, so do you add it to your soil via water or do you mix it up with the soil? and should i even bother with the humboldt shit? Also it's sayin " no need for ferts " is that true?
 
Bublonichronic

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
max316420 said:
good readin dude, so do you add it to your soil via water or do you mix it up with the soil?
Click to expand...
i mix it into the soil, that is the only thing i add to my soils.. this is my second run with it, first time i used the "Azos Basilius" nitrogen fixing bacteria, and the Cal-carb c02 supplement...both were cool, but the Mykos is the only thing i kept around, and actually bought, 2lbs for like 45$...you can see the mycorizzia all over the roots, IMO FAR more effective than GreatWhite

EDIT: but dont forget, no matter what you buy, roots excell is a must, and i dont know about not needin ANY fertz, but a little goes a long way thats for sure, if anything more carbohydrates are needed ("botanicare sweet") to support the bacteria
 
max316420

max316420

Well-Known Member
Ok so this might sound like a confusing question but say im using FFOF soil which im sure you know has food in it, would I add the mycos to that soil and just water without food or would I start feeding using my normal feeding schedule? I'm a tad confused because can there really be enough food for 2-3 weeks of vet and 2 months of bloom?
 
Bublonichronic

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
max316420 said:
Ok so this might sound like a confusing question but say im using FFOF soil which im sure you know has food in it, would I add the mycos to that soil and just water without food or would I start feeding using my normal feeding schedule? I'm a tad confused because can there really be enough food for 2-3 weeks of vet and 2 months of bloom?
Click to expand...
yea, you would add about a tablespoon or so to the soil in your pot, mix it into the top 6" of your soil, then transplant right ontop of that so the roots get nice contact with them, or place your seed in it...i pretty much have cut my feeding in half since using the stuff...imma get a unnecessarily in depth on you right quick home boy cause im a little baked:eyesmoke:
this is my flower recipe in a nut shell, some changes according to flowering week
My Recipe:
1 Tblsp, FFBigBloom
1 Tsp, Botanicare Liquid karma
1 Tsp, FF TigerBloom
1Tsp, BioBizz Bloom
1/2 Tsp, FFGrowBig
1/2 Tsp, cal/mag
1 Tsp Hygrozyme
10Ml, Botanicare Sweet berry
10Ml General Hydroponic FlouraNecter Pineapple rush

1/4 Tsp, FFBeastiesBloom(wks 2-4)/FFCha-Ching(wks4-8)

.....oh yea....that was unnecessarybongsmilie lol, but thats just an idea of what i be doin man:eyesmoke:

EDIT: also, ill hit them with the roots excell till about week 2-3 flower, like every 4th watering... and alternate between watering and feeding
 
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