What the Hell is This Mites?
- Thread starter ceeconst
- Start date
303
Well-Known Member
Are you kidding? If you've had mites before you know the pictures shown are clearly mite damage. You certainly don't need a microscope to spot mites.
iv been told that they are not mites,,,, "
ahhhh your in promix, So this is my opinion on it and Im sure someone is gonna chime in and say O its you and your mag def problems again. I have been working out problems with promix for about 2 years and this is my findings... When using promix (which is peat based) over time the peat starts to break down which in turn acidifies your soil, with your soil being acidic it's gonna drop the ph of your soil down to levels that will cause nutrient lockout. I have found that the most important nutrient that gets locked out is magnesium (plants gobble tons during flowering). Ways to counteract it is.. Sprinkle dolomite lime on the top of your soil and water, it will buffer your soils ph. You can also foliar feed with epsom salt or something like sea mag. But you def wanna get the ph issues worked out cause if not they will go downhill from here and no amount of feeding or foliar feed is really gonna help cause the plant wont be able to eat thru its roots. You want your soils ph around 6.5, but there are people out there that will say PROMIX IS JUST LIKE GROWING HYDRO but its not, treat it as soil and ph accordingly"
ahhhh your in promix, So this is my opinion on it and Im sure someone is gonna chime in and say O its you and your mag def problems again. I have been working out problems with promix for about 2 years and this is my findings... When using promix (which is peat based) over time the peat starts to break down which in turn acidifies your soil, with your soil being acidic it's gonna drop the ph of your soil down to levels that will cause nutrient lockout. I have found that the most important nutrient that gets locked out is magnesium (plants gobble tons during flowering). Ways to counteract it is.. Sprinkle dolomite lime on the top of your soil and water, it will buffer your soils ph. You can also foliar feed with epsom salt or something like sea mag. But you def wanna get the ph issues worked out cause if not they will go downhill from here and no amount of feeding or foliar feed is really gonna help cause the plant wont be able to eat thru its roots. You want your soils ph around 6.5, but there are people out there that will say PROMIX IS JUST LIKE GROWING HYDRO but its not, treat it as soil and ph accordingly"
Nullis
Moderator
Maybe spider mites, could be some other kind of pest insect as well. In my experience though spider mites give the leaf more of a speckled appearance; tiny little white dots from where the mites have pierced leaf-cells. That looks like more patchy than what I've seen but it doesn't mean it isn't a bug problem.
Check the undersides of the leaves with a magnifying glass. They can be seed with the naked eye but you'd definitely see them under the glass.
Check the undersides of the leaves with a magnifying glass. They can be seed with the naked eye but you'd definitely see them under the glass.
303
Well-Known Member
I don't see a cal mag def in the photos, I also don't know how you can say a certain kind of soil is just like growing hydro. If it isn't mites its something pest related, thats no def.
Nullis
Moderator
Well, if I may, you have to know what the issue is before anyone can tell you what to do.
As half of us said you need to get something that magnifies or else you need to look very carefully at the undersides of the affected leaves. You might see tiny little black\gray dots moving around: mites. Or you might see something else moving around.
If you have a bug problem get a safe pesticide to spray all over the plant: insecticidal soap, pyrethrin, neem oil, Organocide are common solutions.
As half of us said you need to get something that magnifies or else you need to look very carefully at the undersides of the affected leaves. You might see tiny little black\gray dots moving around: mites. Or you might see something else moving around.
If you have a bug problem get a safe pesticide to spray all over the plant: insecticidal soap, pyrethrin, neem oil, Organocide are common solutions.
303
Well-Known Member
You need to find out what it is, my guess little amber looking creatures on the undersides of your leaves...? Whats your enviorment? Do you have a grow tent, sealed room? If its a somewhat sealed enviorment I'd just use a fogger such as doktor doom's fogger, it'll take care of any pests in the enviorment..? Or spray with neem or mite rid.
dannyboy602
Well-Known Member
I had similar symptoms on plants in a grow recently. It looked like stippling, which is mite damage, but turned out to be a genetic defect presenting as damage. From either mites or a nute deficit. I see different symptoms on plants that are all treated the same and in a controlled grow. Nute deficiencies should all show up on all 13 plants I grow, not one or two. I think a lot of the reason we see probs with plants is breeders fuckups that go into their product. Active mites are ez to see under leaf surfaces. They leave little white spots and the damage is unmistakeable. But anyway I just wanted to add my two cents....as I sit here smokin some sour D...lol
haha thanks danny boy....iv checked and i cant seem to see anything moving or any kind of eggs......im thinking maybe it is the plant excreting sap or somethign due to the heat (around 85f in my tent) also it could be from the water magnifying th elight causing them to burn maybe,,,,,i shaked th eleaf over a plain peice of paper and nothing appeared to fall off.... so im really confused...light are off now and i will be cheking againw hen lights come on.......ill update o this threadd...
thanks guys
thanks guys
Metal n Weed
Active Member
Do you see tiny black specs on bottom of leaves? I have had almost all the pest and that looks like thripes to me.
100th post, I must be slow, seen a guy joined last month with like 600.
100th post, I must be slow, seen a guy joined last month with like 600.
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Yer that is definatly insect damage and definatly not a nute deficiency. Somthing has sucked the chlorophyl right out those tiny little patches and trails. I have had thrip damage for years and thats not to say that this isn't spidermite or somthing else similar but i am convinced it is probably thrip damage. I think the difference is it is easy to spot spidermites on the plant and they grow in population quickly whereas thrips are some crafty ingenious little buggers and can outwit people easily. The main giveaway for me with the marks on your leaf is that you see the damage but never see the culprit!! This is what thrips do, messes with your head whilst your plant starts to slowly get worse and worse. Thrip adults are small little black/brown flies, couple mm long at best. Their babies are little grubs that live in the soil and are generally slow moving, the middle stage is where the problem is, they are fast moving, clever at hiding and evading you even when you look at the leaf or plant as they hide is small spaces and even along the underside of the leaf veins and ferocious eaters. Their population never seems to get out of control fast in small grow rooms meaning there are only ever a couple for each leaf or area at first making them hard to spot.
Sprays will work but are only short term, cover all soil and pots as they lay eggs in the leaves which hatch and drop the grubs into the soil where they live till they can climb up the plant stalk and live in the leaves. I use pest sticks which can be pushed into the soil and release a pesticide into the plant which kills all sap sucking and leaf eating bugs and this stops 90 percent of damage but i only use them on my vegetables and wary about using it with plants i smoke, they use this for a lot of indoor tomatos and cherry tomatos, nicotinamide based chemicals is what it uses i think. I also but bug strips that have small predatory bugs that actively hunt down and kill thrips and spider mites, good news is the ones that kill spider mites will quite often kill thrips so good for both.
Only a visual identification will tell you what you got, to identify thrips is hard but flower growers gently breath their hot warm breath over the flower, the thrips are attracted to warmth and moisture and come out of hiding to investigate, works for me too! Also when checking the plant pay particular attention to the big veins along the underside of the leaf as thrips run and press their bodies lengthways along this vein and it makes seeing them very very hard.
I have a link also for thrips also, still it could be spidermites or somthing else, identifying the bug should be your first priority-
http://www.protectedherbs.org.uk/pages/thrips.htm
Sprays will work but are only short term, cover all soil and pots as they lay eggs in the leaves which hatch and drop the grubs into the soil where they live till they can climb up the plant stalk and live in the leaves. I use pest sticks which can be pushed into the soil and release a pesticide into the plant which kills all sap sucking and leaf eating bugs and this stops 90 percent of damage but i only use them on my vegetables and wary about using it with plants i smoke, they use this for a lot of indoor tomatos and cherry tomatos, nicotinamide based chemicals is what it uses i think. I also but bug strips that have small predatory bugs that actively hunt down and kill thrips and spider mites, good news is the ones that kill spider mites will quite often kill thrips so good for both.
Only a visual identification will tell you what you got, to identify thrips is hard but flower growers gently breath their hot warm breath over the flower, the thrips are attracted to warmth and moisture and come out of hiding to investigate, works for me too! Also when checking the plant pay particular attention to the big veins along the underside of the leaf as thrips run and press their bodies lengthways along this vein and it makes seeing them very very hard.
I have a link also for thrips also, still it could be spidermites or somthing else, identifying the bug should be your first priority-
http://www.protectedherbs.org.uk/pages/thrips.htm