Please Help Diagnose These Leaf Symptoms

[dirtysnowball]

and another way was to use neem oil and water

 

[Farfenugen]

I had spider mites once, and used a concoction of dish soap diluted with 75% water and sprayed the leaves. This seemed to have worked.

 

[sparkafire]

the root aphids are very small. they are white/tan and float when you water the plant. i had them, the plant nearly died after a week or so. everything just starts dying lol

to kill the root aphids, mix 1 gallon of water with a pack of cigarettes. let it sit over night and grind/shake/mix very well. water thoroughly, this will ensure the bugs die... and they're eggs too. you may have to repeat this process a few times.

and another way was to use neem oil and water

I had spider mites once, and used a concoction of dish soap diluted with 75% water and sprayed the leaves. This seemed to have worked.

SHHHHHHHHHH post less research more!!

 

[Kingrow1]

Tobacco mosaic virus is prominent on a lot of tobacco crops and can survive the process of being made into a cigarette and hence can be spread onto other plants from cigarettes and tobacco. I know nicotine is hazrdous to some bugs and i too use a nicotinamide bug killer stick which you put into the soil and over the process of time the plant absorbs the nicotinamide into its transport system and if any bug sucks on it it, i only use these for my veg crops though as many commercial indoor tomato crops employ the same nicotinamide bug killer as it is supposedly the safest insecticide for veg crops and systemic as well i think. I just wanted to say about the 'TOBACCO' mosaic virus being present in some tobacco product from time to time. Was not saying not to do it though as have never had root aphids etc etc

 

[Kingrow1]

Tobacco mosaic virus is prominent on a lot of tobacco crops and can survive the process of being made into a cigarette and hence can be spread onto other plants from cigarettes and tobacco. I know nicotine is hazrdous to some bugs and i too use a nicotinamide bug killer stick which you put into the soil and over the process of time the plant absorbs the nicotinamide into its transport system and if any bug sucks on it it, i only use these for my veg crops though as many commercial indoor tomato crops employ the same nicotinamide bug killer as it is supposedly the safest insecticide for veg crops and systemic as well i think. I just wanted to say about the 'TOBACCO' mosaic virus being present in some tobacco product from time to time. Was not saying not to do it though as have never had root aphids etc etc

Sorry this was too the guy who said use cigarettes, just another useless peice of information, i think the nicotinamide bug killer product are how comercial organic tomato and other organic crops manage to keep the bugs off their plants and still keep organic because the only chemical used is derived from a blant based nicotine and hence organic, the sticks for the soil work for me but don't quote me on the organic part for commercial growers as it was a while ago i looked into it!

 

[poindexterous]

There's no bugs on my leaves whatsoever. Perhaps in the soil though.

I did find a cannabis diagnosis guide(at ICMag) with a picture of phosphorus deficiency that looked more like my leaves than any I've seen yet, it also said P is absorbed better at lower pH so I added some extra bloom nute and dropped pH to 5.5, seems unlikely but worth a try.

More likely would seem some root pathogen or bug, next action is to drench with gnatrol, pyrethrum, and myco-bene's(great white&aquashield), to hopefully deal with any bug or bacteria invaders.

Still love to hear any good ideas. I can't be the only one who's had this trouble, right?

 

[Dr. Bigbud]

LOL, he aint got aiphids or mites or no mosaic virus, hes got a difficiency. Flush your pots pH adjusted water and fertilize with a vegetative formula fertilizer and put your ladies back under the light and water as usual.

 

[Merlin34]

@sparkafire

The reason I said supposedly it gets worse under HPS's is because of what I read in this link:

https://www.theroomofgreen.com/forum/showthread.php?593-Phantom-Deficiencies-Rapidly-Yellowing-leaves-rust-spots-necrosis-gt-gt-Root-Aphids!!

To the original poster:

This is a very comprehensive article, though I don't know if the HPS's contribute, but the increased light might, just a theory.

I grow for a large commercial grow, and we are battling them right now. All out war.

Also drying our pots out seems to help so far, but the war is on. I can update if you all wish, we're starting a regiment of several products.

The reason no one looks for the root aphids is that as soon as you walk in the room you instantly see nute lock, and start there trying to correct it. Look at the differences in the flying insects, the fungus gnats will have a clear ass end, while the flying root aphids have a smaller body and are all black. The root aphids don't produce as many flyers, so if you have a good number of flyers then you have a crap load in your growing medium.

Peace,
Merlin34

 

[Kingrow1]

I seem to find that on seperate locations where i grow if i get bugs once i am always prone to them, if i dont get bugs in another location i never get them or just the once but once eliminated they never come back. I suppose if you think you got bugs then you need to identify them before taking any actions to eliminate them.

To Merlin34 about the theory on lights, i can't be bothered to look at the link but think that it is a matter of growth that you are on about, wouldn't hps make the plant grow faster and hence exhibit deficiency quicker whereas the same plant might not look so deficient under t5's or a lesser light source? or do you mean somthing about the colour spectrum?

Are you sure this is root aphids, it did look in some ways similar to the pics i seen of root aphid plants but in no way is that conclusive, can't we get some visual identification, can you even identify them in soil, do you need a magnifying glass? do you need to borrow mine?lol

 

[Kingrow1]

Also i sprayed once with a pyrethrum based product and burnt my leaves bad, i then instantly threw the spray away, i hesitate at your bug killer products!

 

[poindexterous]

Alright so after a thorough inspection the only bugs in my perlite are regular old fungus gnats, no root aphids(thankfully!), checked with a microscope. And now I'm reconsidering the gnats possibly being the cause of these troubles. Seems like I've had gnats forever without such troubles so I overlooked them so far, but nothing else makes sense, and I found some online pics of gnat damaged plants(assuming they were correctly diagnosed) which looked a lot like mine. Just drenched perlite with water soluble pyrethrin which I know will kill any insect life and is harmless to roots, so the next week should reveal if it was the gnats.

It just can't be nutrients as I've varied brands, ppm, pH, supplements, water source, pump frequency, etc, etc, etc.

Also strange is that of the two strains I've got going one is afflicted on 100% of the plants, while with the other strain it's 50/50, and all plants are on the same feed system.

Here's some more photo's. Some badly afflicted, one dead, and a couple of the immune ones, again all on the same feed system....

 

[Kingrow1]

For what its worth i have seen the last leaf in the last pic as severe mag deficiency in quite a few charts and books.

 

[poindexterous]

For what its worth i have seen the last leaf in the last pic as severe mag deficiency in quite a few charts and books.

Definitely does look like it, kinda like Phosphorus also, though nutrients are lacking neither, even with calmag+ it still showed it, alas!